nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
yup, probably, but you might lose the ability to easily rotate the tires. I think in low, discharge AHC fully, and see where it sits. If its on the bumps, you're golden.
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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yup, probably, but you might lose the ability to easily rotate the tires. I think in low, discharge AHC fully, and see where it sits. If its on the bumps, you're golden.
Seems like a 1” body lift would be an inexpensive upgrade both for your fenders and might allow you to raise your auxiliary tank and spare tire mount. I raised my spare mount about an inch w/o a body lift (to tuck my 34” x 11.5” as much as possible underneath there) but will be doing a BL on my 570 soon to go bigger.
I’ve also used wheel dollys to turn lock to lock when checking clearance more easily.
At any rate, well done
I’ve also used wheel dollys to turn lock to lock when checking clearance more easily.
At any rate, well done
- Thread starter
- #23
Seems like a 1” body lift would be an inexpensive upgrade both for your fenders and might allow you to raise your auxiliary tank and spare tire mount. I raised my spare mount about an inch w/o a body lift (to tuck my 34” x 11.5” as much as possible underneath there) but will be doing a BL on my 570 soon to go bigger. At any rate, well done
Glad you brought that up. I've done some research and believe this could be a good option. Wouldn't even take much as a 3/8" body lift could be all it would take. At that BL lift height, there's not much rework and stock body bolts could be still used. And stock bumpers
My goal is to keep performance as high as possible while minimizing compromises. Keeping COG low is a priority. I'd opt to modify clearance issues within the wheel well first to the degree possible. BL may still be a good answer however.
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Aside from gearing - lack of a full size spare has always been a big turn-off for me to make this leap. I hadn't considered just sticking with a 34 underneath (in my case something like a 285/70r18. Totally makes sense given the revs-per-mile is so close.
Although I really like the idea of a Kaymar swing-out only that LRA can source.. It's driver's side so no fiddling with AHC pump relo.
Although I really like the idea of a Kaymar swing-out only that LRA can source.. It's driver's side so no fiddling with AHC pump relo.
Looks raw as hell. Let me know how it feels on the streets. How much comfort did you lose? Makes me want to buy an LX570 now.
Is there any benefit of 20" wheels vs 17" rock warriors? I have an extra set I have been saving for an LX570. Im not familiar with toyos how do they compare to KO2s for highway?
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks!
Comfort lost, not much. I think actually, it's more comfortable still than my 33" Falkens on account of the added sidewall, and that was a really comfortable setup. It's smooth that I'd liken it to almost the factory LX ride with low profile highway tires. I think the wide tire and relatively more bulged sidewall geometry helps soften the heavier LT and floatation tire sidewalls.
I still need more time with these tires to fully comment. From my research, the Falkens and Toyos were class leading in NVH and comfort. My brother put 285/65R18 KO2s on my previous LX470 that I sold to him and I can't say I was thrilled about the ride and noise from that change. For research, I recommend this link, particularly notes in the comments, which I believe share very fair and candid commentary among the current competitive set.
As for 20" vs 17", with the large diameter of the 35s, there's plenty of sidewall to go around IMO. I'll be the first to admit I'm not a hardcore rock crawler, though I'd definitely still take the challenge. There's advantages to on-road handling and towing sway resistance with the 20s that work better for my priorities and uses.
Comfort lost, not much. I think actually, it's more comfortable still than my 33" Falkens on account of the added sidewall, and that was a really comfortable setup. It's smooth that I'd liken it to almost the factory LX ride with low profile highway tires. I think the wide tire and relatively more bulged sidewall geometry helps soften the heavier LT and floatation tire sidewalls.
I still need more time with these tires to fully comment. From my research, the Falkens and Toyos were class leading in NVH and comfort. My brother put 285/65R18 KO2s on my previous LX470 that I sold to him and I can't say I was thrilled about the ride and noise from that change. For research, I recommend this link, particularly notes in the comments, which I believe share very fair and candid commentary among the current competitive set.
As for 20" vs 17", with the large diameter of the 35s, there's plenty of sidewall to go around IMO. I'll be the first to admit I'm not a hardcore rock crawler, though I'd definitely still take the challenge. There's advantages to on-road handling and towing sway resistance with the 20s that work better for my priorities and uses.
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Where did you purchase, and did they have any issues balancing? DT tried rotating one of my tires 180 degrees (ended up replacing that one) and has over 10oz on a few of them.
I need to find a good shop that has "finger plates".
I need to find a good shop that has "finger plates".
- Thread starter
- #28
I got them from Walmart when they had a great price going. Looks like that pricing is gone. There were some delivery troubles that they weren't too helpful with but I did finally get the tires.
I didn't look at the number of weights put on, but they seemed to balance out incredibly well. 20" wheels have an advantage balancing larger tires too as each weight is semi-closer to the periphery where it has more influence. My local Discount Tires mounted them.
I didn't look at the number of weights put on, but they seemed to balance out incredibly well. 20" wheels have an advantage balancing larger tires too as each weight is semi-closer to the periphery where it has more influence. My local Discount Tires mounted them.
I'm trying to stay humble for my inevitable tire upgrades later this year and after reading this all i am seeing are 35s.
Thanks for the gold! I'm thinking regear or not i might just go for it. I'll just take it easy on the throttle and if gears break then that's a good chance to upgrade; i could also find tundra gears at a salvage yard if i break them. Anyways, thanks for figuring out half the battle for me!
Thanks for the gold! I'm thinking regear or not i might just go for it. I'll just take it easy on the throttle and if gears break then that's a good chance to upgrade; i could also find tundra gears at a salvage yard if i break them. Anyways, thanks for figuring out half the battle for me!
- Thread starter
- #31
Stitched up one side. I'm glad to have made the stitch towards side facing rather than on top and bottom. Much easier to tig. Trying to minimize the heat into the mount so as not to compromise the body mount bushing. I loosened the assembly and the toothpicks are to create a gap to decrease heat transfer into the bushing.
Does the engineering side of you think you are comprising BM strength due to the heat input and essential tempering of the HAZ? What’s your filler?
- Thread starter
- #33
Not concerned for a couple reasons. Frames are generally low carbon steel. Even if this part was not, where it's cut and spliced is largely beyond the primary structure that holds the mount. It serves to box in and provide crash structure against tire intrusion. To your point, I tried to rework it in a fashion that needs minimal heat and welding as I didn't fully cut out the side to weld in a new donor plate. Pulse TIG also minimizing heat input. Not using any particular filler, run of the mill steel filler I have in my garage.
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- Thread starter
- #35
UCA interference.
@nwfl4runner pointed out that there would be rub on the UCA at full compression, at least with an effective wheel offset of +35mm (stock wheel with 1" spacers). I ordered 1.25" spacers to make the necessary clearance.
After getting the spacers in and trying things out, I wasn't completely sold on that strategy for several reasons. I want the tires flush with the fenders. The tire clearance to the top of the fender is finger nails tight with 1" and could have contact with any more. Tire within the fender line also keeps body aero at speed as a big 35 outside of the body lines will contribute to additional drag. As I wanted to keep the stock mud flap, the spacer created tighter clearance there as the tire steered. 1" spacers puts scrub radius geometry closer to optimal. With larger tires and more spacer, also potentially creates additional stress on bearings and running components.
Close in and tight was really what I wanted. Considered going down the path of UCAs as many of them are lower profile in build. May still go down this path. Yet my suspension is barely lifted (.75") and I didn't necessarily want the alignment changes with an aftermarket UCA.
With nothing to lose, out comes the angle grinder. A useful tool when solving interference issues.
Marked the cut around the tire witness marks. Making a gentle curve to ensure no stress risers.
Cut, grinded smooth, and a nice coat of paint
I was going to weld and box material back in. Cut relatively little material away and the UCA is plenty strong there so no structural concerns in my mind. Given the geometry and strength primarily needed on the horizontal plane, these things are potentially still stronger in those directions than some aftermarket UCAs.
@nwfl4runner pointed out that there would be rub on the UCA at full compression, at least with an effective wheel offset of +35mm (stock wheel with 1" spacers). I ordered 1.25" spacers to make the necessary clearance.
After getting the spacers in and trying things out, I wasn't completely sold on that strategy for several reasons. I want the tires flush with the fenders. The tire clearance to the top of the fender is finger nails tight with 1" and could have contact with any more. Tire within the fender line also keeps body aero at speed as a big 35 outside of the body lines will contribute to additional drag. As I wanted to keep the stock mud flap, the spacer created tighter clearance there as the tire steered. 1" spacers puts scrub radius geometry closer to optimal. With larger tires and more spacer, also potentially creates additional stress on bearings and running components.
Close in and tight was really what I wanted. Considered going down the path of UCAs as many of them are lower profile in build. May still go down this path. Yet my suspension is barely lifted (.75") and I didn't necessarily want the alignment changes with an aftermarket UCA.
With nothing to lose, out comes the angle grinder. A useful tool when solving interference issues.
Marked the cut around the tire witness marks. Making a gentle curve to ensure no stress risers.
Cut, grinded smooth, and a nice coat of paint
I was going to weld and box material back in. Cut relatively little material away and the UCA is plenty strong there so no structural concerns in my mind. Given the geometry and strength primarily needed on the horizontal plane, these things are potentially still stronger in those directions than some aftermarket UCAs.
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supercarrera
I Like LEDs
Hi @TeCKis300 I just wanted to make sure this what you are calling the mud flap you trying to avoid contacting with the tire? I want to be able to keep this as well when I move up to 35s.
- Thread starter
- #37
That part I consider the step. You'll want to make that verticle cut closer to the holes than is pictured there.
I did put back the mudflap with some effort. Quite a bit of shaping and contorting to get it to work. I added some more details and pics to post #3 to clarify.
I did put back the mudflap with some effort. Quite a bit of shaping and contorting to get it to work. I added some more details and pics to post #3 to clarify.
@TeCKis300, is this the pinch weld you “hammered over to the side”? Just bang it over to the step side?
- Thread starter
- #39
Yup, bang away to fold it over. I used 3lb hammer. I didn't fold mine over too much, but IIRC, you have an incrementally taller tire but narrower tire so you may or may not need more?
I hit it with some paint after doing the deed as that part likely gets the brunt of tire spray.
I hit it with some paint after doing the deed as that part likely gets the brunt of tire spray.
