nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Is that clearing the UCA at full lock?
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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afgman786
SILVER Star
Only makes sense to chop up the fender...
Seems like a good candidate for a small body lift, or a good body shop that might be able to push the lip out ever so slightly and allow you to still use your inner fender liner. I don’t recall what size spacer you are using. Can you bring the wheel in at all and still clear the UCA?
It doesn’t look like you are far off, however expect a little more compression while driving considering the dynamics of the weight transferring to that corner if you are going downhill, or a little bounce. A third option could be an extended bumpstop, but this would be my last resort since you don’t want to reduce uptravel if you don’t absolutely have to.
But don’t give up!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #64
That looks righteous and I would love to see you make that work!
Lots of great ideas that could be used perhaps in combination. The easiest would be what MTKID recommends and just toss in some Tundra SuperBumps or a stack of washers for now.
I use to have an Eastwood fender roller and that would make quick work of the fender. Too bad I lent it out to a friend years ago and never got it back.
Body lift would be a great solution and I almost did it until I figured I could get everything to just fit without.
Impressive flex for one ramp. Are you in low mode?
What effective offset is that @supercarrera ? You dont want to downsize to the 10.5” version of that tire?
maybe consider kutsnake flares?
maybe consider kutsnake flares?
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
These wheels are Icon Rebounds with a +25 offset which is effectively like having a 1.38" spacer. I think this is probably the best offset for these tires as it leaves about 5 to 10mm of space off the UCAs at full lock.
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
Yeah low mode. I'm guessing that stuffing the tire would look more or less the same in the other modes.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Honestly I’d discharge the suspension fluid, which should drop it to the bumps, and then get a buddy to go side to side while you watch. Only way to know. Your cutting the fender for sure.
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
I decided it would be easier to work with less offset than +25 so I found a set of rock warriors. By using the RWs with the .75" spacers I already have, I reduced the offset by 6mm to +31. I also took back the Kendas and bought a Wildpeak AT3 to try out. The slightly smaller size of the Wildpeak is easier to work with. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with this setup. The size of the Wildpeak is 315/70/17. I chose that over the 35x12.5 because the 315s are approved for 8" rims and the 35s aren't.
The upper front fender still looks to be an issue, but there's a few millimeters more clearance with this setup than with the Kenda's. I'm not exactly sure how to handle that yet. I might need to break out a sawzall after all.
The picture below is in high mode.
The upper front fender still looks to be an issue, but there's a few millimeters more clearance with this setup than with the Kenda's. I'm not exactly sure how to handle that yet. I might need to break out a sawzall after all.
The picture below is in high mode.
- Thread starter
- #71
Noice. I have a soft spot for Falken's, and that size looks proper!
For the upper fender interference, some options or a combination of these options
- shim bump stop or add larger aftermarket bump stops. Though this would compromise suspension travel to a degree
- roll fender, an Eastwood fender roller would make quick work of it
- bodylift. @MTKID just did his with stock bodywork
For the upper fender interference, some options or a combination of these options
- shim bump stop or add larger aftermarket bump stops. Though this would compromise suspension travel to a degree
- roll fender, an Eastwood fender roller would make quick work of it
- bodylift. @MTKID just did his with stock bodywork
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Check your UCA - I think you'll be connecting on full lock/full bump. I barely clear 275/80r17 on rock warriors w/aftermarket UCA barely, and my tires are 1.5" narrower (taking into account your spacers)
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
It's tight at full lock but no contact with the UCA. Finally got the other 3 on. I haven't really dealt with the upper front fender yet. I don't think I really need to until I know I'll be flexing it out.
I decided it would be easier to work with less offset than +25 so I found a set of rock warriors. By using the RWs with the .75" spacers I already have, I reduced the offset by 6mm to +31. I also took back the Kendas and bought a Wildpeak AT3 to try out. The slightly smaller size of the Wildpeak is easier to work with. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with this setup. The size of the Wildpeak is 315/70/17. I chose that over the 35x12.5 because the 315s are approved for 8" rims and the 35s aren't.
The upper front fender still looks to be an issue, but there's a few millimeters more clearance with this setup than with the Kenda's. I'm not exactly sure how to handle that yet. I might need to break out a sawzall after all.
View attachment 2565695
Rock warriors look good neked!
- Thread starter
- #76
Curious what you'll see with the upper fender.
Talking about alignment in the other thread, even if it's not needed - you could probably add a mild .5 degree of camber to the front tires to help them clear at the top. Been thinking to do this as it may also have the added benefit of better grip and handling on the front end. With as tall as these tires are, it may help the sidewall not roll over as easily. It'll also reduce the degree of camber introduced in AHC high. I may just do this in my garage with some laser levels and strings.
I think you have a mild sensor lift correct?
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
When I tested the upper fender earlier, there was a little wiggle room, but I think I need to roll the lip a little and massage the liner as you did or there will be rubbing at full flex.
My sensors are maxed out on all four corners although from the pictures, it kind of looks like it should be sitting a little higher than it is.
I think adding camber is an excellent idea as it doesn't seem like the optimum set up to have positive camber for off roading when stability and strength are needing in our suspensions.
afgman786
SILVER Star
@TeCKis300 your picture of you rubbing into your body mount, was that in low or normal? Going to try and put jacks under the tire Saturday to see how much I might hit the body mount to see if I need to deal with all that cutting and welding. Just trying to compare. I got 35s in the 275/80/17 flavor so hoping that being skinnier is going to save me. I'll probably mash the pinch seem to one side just to be safe.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
What wheel?
These are similar diameter to a 295/70r18 (within a couple mm), but 20mm narrower. I doubt you're anywhere any body mounts. I have 275/80r18, and I'm not into the body mount . . .
