Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX (1 Viewer)

[TeCKis300]

I'm about to have new tires and UCAs on. I'll be getting it aligned this week. What should we be looking for on negative camber? 1* or more?

I did a mild -.5 to -.75 on mine. -1 is likely okay if you really need the clearance at the top of the fender. More than that might be a liability depending on how tall your truck is. One of the considerations is not to give the front axle too much bite with too much negative camber. In an emergency maneuver situation, don't want oversteer or worse, rollover.

 

[RyanR]

I did a mild -.5 to -.75 on mine. -1 is likely okay if you really need the clearance at the top of the fender. More than that might be a liability depending on how tall your truck is. One of the considerations is not to give the front axle too much bite with too much negative camber. In an emergency maneuver situation, don't want oversteer or worse, rollover.

Same, I can't find my last alignment printout but I think I'm -0.8 drivers side and -0.7 passenger side. At AHC High, I am still into positive camber and on pavement handling in high is a mess, but much improved from what it was, I can definitely see why they speed limit the height settings. From a street handling perspective this has made the handling a good bit more balanced, especially when it drops a touch at speed. I found the degree of understeer with stock alignment to be awful, but I get the intent especially with a large SUV and the typical demographic. As it is setup now you can get it to rotate at the limit with a little finesse and throttle. In the dirt it is much easier to get it sideways and hold a line.

 

[TeCKis300]

As it is setup now you can get it to rotate at the limit with a little finesse and throttle. In the dirt it is much easier to get it sideways and hold a line.

My kind of driver.

 

[Wicked0ne18]

Threw some 315/70’s on 17x7.5’s yesterday. Technically 34.4”x12.7” Front sensor lift maxed. Rear stock for now. No rubbing so far in the urban jungle. Unmodified body mount.
View attachment 2954258

You’re able to do this with no body mount chop?? That’s a zero offset wheel. Damn that’s awesome!

 

[Jason Andrews]

You’re able to do this with no body mount chop?? That’s a zero offset wheel. Damn that’s awesome!

Yep. It’s actually a +25. And I’m pretty sure it would clear completely in a full stuff and partial turn situation. Checked when a little flexed and turning and surprisingly could still slide my fingers between tires and the mount.

I suspect the 7.5” wheel width has a lot to do with this even tho the tire is wider than most have success with.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yep. It’s actually a +25. And I’m pretty sure it would clear completely in a full stuff and partial turn situation. Checked when a little flexed and turning and surprisingly could still slide my fingers between tires and the mount.

I suspect the 7.5” wheel width has a lot to do with this even tho the tire is wider than most have success with.

It's something to keep an eye on. The tire will move as the control arm bushings flex under load, so a static test wouldn't tell the whole story.

The litmus test for me has been medium to hard braking with a tad of steering dialed in. If it's going to contact, that's the situation that will bring the tire closest to the body mount.

 

[radman]

I recently, and intentionally, stuffed my rear all the way to the bump stops.
I’d rather not hack at my Dissent - is there a thing to be done about this clearance?

It’s barely kissing, and it should be fine if I just leave it alone. Larger bump stop would do it, but seems like there’s room to spare on the front side of the wheel well.

 

[grinchy]

Rubbings’ racing!

 

[Wicked0ne18]

Yep. It’s actually a +25. And I’m pretty sure it would clear completely in a full stuff and partial turn situation. Checked when a little flexed and turning and surprisingly could still slide my fingers between tires and the mount.

I suspect the 7.5” wheel width has a lot to do with this even tho the tire is wider than most have success with.

That’s awesome. I thought your wheels were 17x8.5 0 offset like mine. Your rig looks real nice with then wheel n tires combo.

 

[TeCKis300]

I recently, and intentionally, stuffed my rear all the way to the bump stops.
I’d rather not hack at my Dissent - is there a thing to be done about this clearance?

It’s barely kissing, and it should be fine if I just leave it alone. Larger bump stop would do it, but seems like there’s room to spare on the front side of the wheel well.

View attachment 2972241

View attachment 2972242

Throwing out some ideas in no particular order

1) Space rearward the Dissent bumper (if even possible?)
2) Bring tires forward by buying adjustable length trailing arms
3) Larger bump stops as you said, that limit uptravel - but perhaps combined with extended length AHC rear shocks to keep all the travel but in the droop direction? (I'll be testing the waters on this hopefully next mth)
4) Trim Dissent bumper on the inner return side so it doesn't affect the exterior cosmetics? Not sure how that could affect it structurally? Could weld a plate further back but then that may effect the powdercoat finish?

 

[Jason Andrews]

I recently, and intentionally, stuffed my rear all the way to the bump stops.
I’d rather not hack at my Dissent - is there a thing to be done about this clearance?

It’s barely kissing, and it should be fine if I just leave it alone. Larger bump stop would do it, but seems like there’s room to spare on the front side of the wheel well.

View attachment 2972241

View attachment 2972242

This is how mine stuffs. It seems more centered in the wheel well. Can’t wait imagine why.

 

[TeCKis300]

This is how mine stuffs. It seems more centered in the wheel well. Can’t wait imagine why. View attachment 2980232

Because the rear is a solid axle, how centered the wheel is will depend somewhat on the opposite tire. I think @radman situation has his opposite tire flexed in droop? With the trailing arm geometry, that'll pull the drooped tire farther forward projecting the compressed tire more rearward.

Could it be in your test, you have both tires more squarely in compression?

 

[Jason Andrews]

Because the rear is a solid axle, how centered the wheel is will depend somewhat on the opposite tire. I think @radman situation has his opposite tire flexed in droop? With the trailing arm geometry, that'll pull the drooped tire farther forward projecting the compressed tire more rearward.

Could it be in your test, you have both tires more squarely in compression?

I had the front tire ramped so the opposite rear was dropped out. Not max droop tho so could have an effect your speaking to.

The issue with #2 you said above it that as the vehicle is lifted the pinion rotates up so shorter UCAs could help but not sure it would be enough to make a difference without having the pinion pointing too far towards the ground.

When are you starting the “how to fit 37s on your LX” thread?

 

[radman]

Because the rear is a solid axle, how centered the wheel is will depend somewhat on the opposite tire. I think @radman situation has his opposite tire flexed in droop? With the trailing arm geometry, that'll pull the drooped tire farther forward projecting the compressed tire more rearward.

Could it be in your test, you have both tires more squarely in compression?

Here’s the opposite side:

 

[tbisaacs]

I had the front tire ramped so the opposite rear was dropped out. Not max droop tho so could have an effect your speaking to.

The issue with #2 you said above it that as the vehicle is lifted the pinion rotates up so shorter UCAs could help but not sure it would be enough to make a difference without having the pinion pointing too far towards the ground.

When are you starting the “how to fit 37s on your LX” thread?

@MTKID is going to leapfrog everyone with his "how to fit 42"s on your LX"

 

[MTKID]

@MTKID is going to leapfrog everyone with his "how to fit 42"s on your LX"

My how-to is really easy…
1. Install 42’s
2. Cut everything that’s in the way


Mostly joking

and I’m just trying to get onto 40’s currently

 

[Wicked0ne18]

Damn that cut is right by the door. Can’t wait to see the rest.

 

[clrussell]

My how-to is really easy…
1. Install 42’s
2. Cut everything that’s in the way


Mostly joking
View attachment 2980428
and I’m just trying to get onto 40’s currently

Kool kids klub

 

[ARKginger]

This was a helpful thread. Need to revisit the pinch weld on the driver side and finish reshaping the plastic but otherwise good to go for these kenda klever rt 35x10.5r17. Rock warriors and a 1” spacer

 

[highfructose]

How do you know whether you need a body mount chop?

My tires don’t rub and I’ve got a fat fingers width at the closest spot

15 offset and kenda 35x11.50r17…true 34.5” when weighted on the vehicle.