First Time Pig "Build"

[crushers]

if you are going to do the leafs then contact Dobinson out of OZ, i have used them for a few of my projects now. buggers to deal with but top notch product. excellent ride, better than OME.
buy just the springs and shackles and pins. buy the RS9000 for shocks.
cheers

 

[Delancy]

insert text

Bob,

I honesty know little about leafs beyond what Deavers I've seen on the SAd T4R shade tree builds around here and overloads on my F350.

I'm good with the Toyota IFS and have learned a lot about coil sprung 80s, but beyond that, I wouldn't know how to spec a rate, if beyond the GVW (not adding any weight) or height beyond saying "a little taller than what I've got" and measuring.

I'm learning, once again, but thinking a slightly taller, level stance, with as smooth a ride quality as affordable by the confines of the leaf/shock set up. Don't want the wells to swallow the tires, since, (my opinion and my baby. You know how that is) think it looks good almost where it is.

Don't know if it'll rub, yet...

So, I'm all ears and researching your suggestions.

Chris

 

[bobm]

Chris, if you have a local spring shop and know exactly or have some idea of where you want to be they should be able to do it. If you want stock ride and you plan on adding weight front and rear. Spring shop should be able to calculate this into factor.

Thanks Bob.

 

[Delancy]

sheet, if you are going to do the leafs then contact Dobinson out of OZ, i have used them for a few of my projects now. buggers to deal with but top notch product. excellent ride, better than OME.
buy just the springs and shackles and pins. buy the RS9000 for shocks.
cheers

Please take no offense, but after a year and a half, I'm wore out dealing with Australian suspension and coil producers, for two reasons:

First and most importantly, communication lag sucks.

Trying to deal with an issue and not being able to call to discuss is miserable, and sometimes email isn't suitable.

Battled hell trying to get the AUS sourced coils and arms on the 80 right and if it weren't for the fact I have a buddy in the freight business there, I'd have had a bunch of high dollar parts in classifieds.

It was that frustrating.

Second, the term "lightweight US Spec" LC means little in Australia.

After having given relatively precise, calculated corner weights, specific lift height criteria, I wound up with a raked out 80 that was 1.25" talker in front and 2" taller in the rear, and that was with 5-6 months of communication prior to.

Many months, coils later, it's as food as it'll ever get and still not what I wanted.

Just didn't have the best experience, all the way around, and since I don't anticipate the build goals here to include any long travel capabilities, I'm sure hoping it can be sourced domestically.

I like suspension builds and think that they're as important on road, as off, since I refuse to own a trailer queen.

I'd think this would be easy enough, but I may be wrong. Honestly don't know how difficult it is to spec to a producer, having never done it before on leafs, or if that's even necessary.

Do know I'll be running Radflo's and already have the basics to Glenn. I'm hoping to replicate whatever shocks lengths come with a kit, or can cycle, but don't think it'll be that intensive.

I'm not an OME fan either, which may get me thrown out if the pigpen. It's not that much more to get a quality shock from a US producer, that won't be responsible for needing a kidney transplant due to ride quality.

 

[Delancy]

Chris, if you have a local spring shop and know exactly or have some idea of where you want to be they should be able to do it. If you want stock ride and you plan on adding weight front and rear. Spring shop should be able to calculate this into factor.

Thanks Bob.

There are several local producers, some of national merit.

Won't hurt to call. Wish I could drive her there.

 

[crushers]

decades ago i dealt with OME and disliked the product
but
i have been very happy with Dobinson, buggers to communicate with but the product is worth the frustration
but
if you are not happy with dealing with OZ, no offense taken. i just have not found a NA made spring that i like enough to recommend.

 

[Delancy]

i just have not found a NA made spring that i like enough to recommend.

I hear that, too.

The sting of the last deal is still very fresh, seeing as how I had just unloaded useless coils a few moments before logging back on, all in 110 degree heat.

If there were specifics available to where it required no thought or input on my part, and those specifics netted a verifiable result, I'd have no qualms about, honestly.

The product I now have is good and does 93% of what it should be doing, just a royal PITA to get it there.

I may sing a completely different tune once I get her off road.

 

[bobm]

Delancy, communication is a KEY part when dealing with any product and its supplier or producer. Stick with local, see how Customer orientated they are and pick the one you like. If they see you as an Important customer and maybe the only one for a PIG. They know that word of mouth can lead to more business whether its an FJ55 or an F350. Keep it in AMERICA and keep it local.

Thanks Bob.

 

[PabloCruise]

No OME shocks?
What shocks would you run?

 

[Pighead]

Many years ago (15? 20?...I forget exactly) I had a good blacksmith shop in Sacramento (they also made leaf springs) re-arch my original rear springs. I asked for one extra leaf to be added, they said they had enough material left over to make an additional small leaf, I said yes. They pulled the springs, installed new bushings and U-bolts and put them back in. cost about as much as a pair of Alcans, but it was done in one day, no question of fitment issues 'cause they were my springs. Ride was a little harsher, but the lean was gone. Those springs and lift shackles let me run 33s on some pretty tough trails (first Nor-Cal Pig-Run on the Rubicon, 2001).
I think that the older Pig springs used better steel than the later (say, 60 series) and will hold an arch better. BTW, I'm still running those same spring packs today.

 

[Pighead]

Are those drum-brake wheels or disc-brake wheels?

 

[PabloCruise]

Are those drum-brake wheels or disc-brake wheels?

Ruh-roh Raggy!

 

[Pighead]

Are those drum-brake wheels or disc-brake wheels?

Answering my own question...Ige says those are disc-brake wheels. No rivets.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Answering my own question...those are disc-brake wheels. No rivets.

you answered that after i looked at them and told you they were disc

 

[Delancy]

re-arch my original rear springs.

Honestly, this makes me warm and fuzzy, since it's one less item that will remain as the original Pig, which means something to me.

Ride was a little harsher, but the lean was gone.

Ride quality is important to me, but if it were known in advance of shocks, could possibly be addressed there.

I think that the older Pig springs used better steel than the later (say, 60 series) and will hold an arch better.

There may be historical validity to this, considering the Japanese steel industry saw major declines in the mid 70s, as did US steel, and forced cuts on every level.

Nippon was formed post war, if memory serves, and was as technologically advanced as US producers, but think the reign of both was challenged during the mid-70s economic crisis.

I would imagine that even the LCs were lightened during the time, same as the big three domestically.

A lot has changed in every aspect and steel is actually a relatively high tech industry today, almost comparable to a TV from that era to modern day.

I have a modern TV, I have modern cars, think my goal is to keep the springs that are on it, and make them work, for that reason.

BTW, I'm still running those same spring packs today.

I felt a tinge of remorse pulling the other wheels off today, but consoled myself with the fact they aren't safe (haha) since wallowed out and probably aren't original.

On another note, keeping more in bobm's communication points.

Discussing the disc conversion with Georg, via email, he asked about power steering plans.

When I answered, expressing interest in using a 73-80 box, in keeping with pseudo-period correctness, think the reply was "I think you'll be fine with a 60 box. Enough said "

I completely appreciate that level of candor. Haha.

 

[Delancy]

Are those drum-brake wheels or disc-brake wheels?

Ruh-roh Raggy!

Answering my own question...those are disc-brake wheels. No rivets.

Might that explain why the caps don't fit?

Lugs don't protrude as far as previous?

What other issues should I expect on the rear drums?

you answered that after i looked at them and told you they were disc

Hahahahaha.

 

[Pighead]

Answering my own question...Ige says those are disc-brake wheels. No rivets.

you answered that after i looked at them and told you they were disc

What?!?

 

[nuclearlemon]

What?!?

bite me dear.

and no, that won't affect hub cap fitment. they are a tight fit and with new rims will most likely be very tight. even used rims sometimes require a bit of adjustment with a screwdriver or wrench to pull the clips in a touch and a rubber mallet to motivate the cap onward. better to be too tight so the caps don't come off easily.

 

[Delancy]

Assuming y'all aren't jerking my chain for a laugh, what are the differences between the two and is that a concern, considering disc fronts and drum rears?

No indications of fitment issues were obvious when I purchased.

 

[Pighead]

No. we got plenty laughs without jerking that particular chain...
IIRC (somebody will correct me if wrong) the rivits on drum wheels will interfere with the discs. Disc wheels will fit drums just fine.

Assuming y'all aren't jerking my chain for a laugh, what are the differences between the two and is that a concern, considering disc fronts and drum rears?

No indications of fitment issues were obvious when I purchased.

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