LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
nice
First Time Pig "Build"
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
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crushers
post ho
i hadn't seen that vid, thanks.
- Thread starter
- #663
Very interesting, to say the least.
I wonder if the container could be sealed?
Almost have to be here, this time of year, otherwise the fly population would quadruple.
- Thread starter
- #664
Question, folks.
I believe this to be an adapted piece of channel or a 40 front bumper, but assume nothing anymore.
I like the bumper that came on mine....just needs a lot of time straightening, and this came on parts Pig, but before deciding if its junk, good, rare, or channel, figured I'd ask.
I believe this to be an adapted piece of channel or a 40 front bumper, but assume nothing anymore.
I like the bumper that came on mine....just needs a lot of time straightening, and this came on parts Pig, but before deciding if its junk, good, rare, or channel, figured I'd ask.
Delancy,
I played around with a door latch, this morning and wanted to give you my 2 cents.
The main body with the spring and plastic, is cast Alum. of some sort. It's not steel, so plating wouldn't be needed. The other two pieces are steel, one is cast, so you could plate those.
I removed the rubber piece with some spray lub. and a small screwdriver ( slowly ) easy.
I threw everything in the blast cabinet and it was done in a couple minutes. The spring and plastic are fine, blew them off with air and will lub. after plating.
Plating--- Cadmium plating is different than just Zinc plating. Plater says over two times longer in the salt spray test.
You can get clear Cad., yellow Cad., even olive drab Cad.
Plater does work for aerospace and the Military, so they must think Cad. is the way to go.
HTH, Ron
I played around with a door latch, this morning and wanted to give you my 2 cents.
The main body with the spring and plastic, is cast Alum. of some sort. It's not steel, so plating wouldn't be needed. The other two pieces are steel, one is cast, so you could plate those.
I removed the rubber piece with some spray lub. and a small screwdriver ( slowly ) easy.
I threw everything in the blast cabinet and it was done in a couple minutes. The spring and plastic are fine, blew them off with air and will lub. after plating.
Plating--- Cadmium plating is different than just Zinc plating. Plater says over two times longer in the salt spray test.
You can get clear Cad., yellow Cad., even olive drab Cad.
Plater does work for aerospace and the Military, so they must think Cad. is the way to go.
HTH, Ron
Here's the pictures!
just an angle iron bumper. common swap for the tin bumpers that were on the rigs. i'll be putting the same thing on bosshogs as soon as i can make it to the scrap yard
- Thread starter
- #668
Is it worth it to you for me to send this one then?
I will, no problem.
I like the curves on the ends of the one that was on mine. Not sure if OE, but may build out of steel, since that's something I am capable of.
- Thread starter
- #669
Bet your ass it does. Thanks, Ron.
Ok, so you blasted leaving the spring and plastic in place, without removing the pin?
Edited: saw pics. Answered.
You blasted the other two pieces with the intent of CAD plating?
I tried hard and tore one, but I do have twelve to play with.
All you removed was the rubber piece?
Blasted the Al and other two pieces?
The plastic wasn't harmed at all?
Mask it?
Edited: Saw pics. Answered.
So only plating the two still pieces though, right?
Clear CAD? Not Zinc? (Blaster was who said zinc. Guess I should've researched more)
What about the Al body? It was ready to go after blast cabinet?
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- Thread starter
- #670
Anyone interested in 303 hinge pins for door and hood?
A neighboring shop to my other business is a specialty fastener manufacturer and I spoke with the shop manager this morning about possibility and he said if I can spec it, he can do all easily but the knurl.
Said they've made before for a large truck utility bed manufacturer that uses a small c clip on the bottom side and since I'm using the brass bushings from a Mudder, could size the pin a few thousandths less for a tight fit, he could groove for the c clip, and could source the c clip from McMaster car.
Short of the stainless material and the drawing, I'd have a twelve pack invested in the labor for a small run of the (16) door pins and (4) hood pins.
Any advice is welcome, as are specs, and if anyone wants any, be more than happy to up it to a case and have a full run done.
A neighboring shop to my other business is a specialty fastener manufacturer and I spoke with the shop manager this morning about possibility and he said if I can spec it, he can do all easily but the knurl.
Said they've made before for a large truck utility bed manufacturer that uses a small c clip on the bottom side and since I'm using the brass bushings from a Mudder, could size the pin a few thousandths less for a tight fit, he could groove for the c clip, and could source the c clip from McMaster car.
Short of the stainless material and the drawing, I'd have a twelve pack invested in the labor for a small run of the (16) door pins and (4) hood pins.
Any advice is welcome, as are specs, and if anyone wants any, be more than happy to up it to a case and have a full run done.
Delancy,
Yes, I'm getting at least the two pieces plated. I'd like to stay with the yellow. If I can, would like to plate the Alum. yellow also. If not, then the two get the sliver.
The plastic wasn't hurt at all, when I blasted them. I will have to wash and blow dry, real good, before lubbing.
Yes, I'm getting at least the two pieces plated. I'd like to stay with the yellow. If I can, would like to plate the Alum. yellow also. If not, then the two get the sliver.
The plastic wasn't hurt at all, when I blasted them. I will have to wash and blow dry, real good, before lubbing.
talk to bosshog, he'd probably swap you a stock 55 bumper for that. his aren't too bad, no worse than annie's bumper was and we straightened it in the vise with bfh
- Thread starter
- #673
How would you plate the Al without removing pin?
Bet you're gonna remove the pin.
Yellow?
Are these typically painted the interior body color?
I'm just leaving the pin and spring, etc. The plating doesn't hurt plastic.
Yellow is the color I've been useing on my plating. The hood release and headlight buckets are an example. It is a duller yellow than the Zinc, but alot better, as far as protection.
I don't know for sure, but I would think the door latch pieces were painted the Cygnus White from the factory.
Yellow is the color I've been useing on my plating. The hood release and headlight buckets are an example. It is a duller yellow than the Zinc, but alot better, as far as protection.
I don't know for sure, but I would think the door latch pieces were painted the Cygnus White from the factory.
- Thread starter
- #675
Good info on plating, Ron. Did not know that plastic was impervious.
Steuben from stripper, about to rinse and remove all the rubbers I can, preparing to drop at blasters tomorrow, along with the rear heater motor casings and fans (I hope) tow hooks and few other misc items.
I would assumed interior color, as well. Mine isn't a good indicator, nor were those I sourced from camotubebender's part out, but the parts pigs covers were intermixed painted and bare plating, so no way to tell.
Thanks, Ron.
Saved a lot of time doing it the hard way once, then redoing later.
Steuben from stripper, about to rinse and remove all the rubbers I can, preparing to drop at blasters tomorrow, along with the rear heater motor casings and fans (I hope) tow hooks and few other misc items.
I would assumed interior color, as well. Mine isn't a good indicator, nor were those I sourced from camotubebender's part out, but the parts pigs covers were intermixed painted and bare plating, so no way to tell.
Thanks, Ron.
Saved a lot of time doing it the hard way once, then redoing later.
- Thread starter
- #676
All that remained of the PS rocker.
She's rusty.
My vote is to section in new material, but only an effort to save a good shell on the parts Pig. Britt wants to cut this corner and possibly the PS inner rear fender (the "only rust" according to PO) and use.
Am I being to sentimental on keeping the parts Pig shell whole?
That is what it's for, but it'll be useless after.....
Same here. He's like to to section off this entire corner from the donor Pig, but it doesn't appear that much to patch in, essentially achieving the same thing.,..I think.....
Not questioning the pro as he said it was my choice, so asking opinions.
Feel bad cutting the other shell up, since its in good condition.
She's rusty.
My vote is to section in new material, but only an effort to save a good shell on the parts Pig. Britt wants to cut this corner and possibly the PS inner rear fender (the "only rust" according to PO) and use.
Am I being to sentimental on keeping the parts Pig shell whole?
That is what it's for, but it'll be useless after.....
Same here. He's like to to section off this entire corner from the donor Pig, but it doesn't appear that much to patch in, essentially achieving the same thing.,..I think.....
Not questioning the pro as he said it was my choice, so asking opinions.
Feel bad cutting the other shell up, since its in good condition.
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- Thread starter
- #677
Bead blasted the donor hinges with intent to rebuild prior to door alignment, but he said they were in good enough shape that he'd run them on one of his cars, so going to use them, for this phase.
Buy some time to complete the parts list to completely rebuild hinges from a Fastenal. Spent a few minutes at the main store I use and came out with a good indication that even the knurled pins can be acquired since the produce in all kinds of sizes, one fitting South Boston's brass bushings in diameter, and only requiring a .20 shave off one knurled end. (For main pins, but can source all through)
Once I have the info will be sure to pass along.
Reinvigorating to see progress. I do regret taking a Sutherland-ish approach, but only because I lack the skills to achieve the finished product I envision.
The next one I'll be chopping and patching.....but not half as much now that I've self educated at my own expense.
Buy some time to complete the parts list to completely rebuild hinges from a Fastenal. Spent a few minutes at the main store I use and came out with a good indication that even the knurled pins can be acquired since the produce in all kinds of sizes, one fitting South Boston's brass bushings in diameter, and only requiring a .20 shave off one knurled end. (For main pins, but can source all through)
Once I have the info will be sure to pass along.
Reinvigorating to see progress. I do regret taking a Sutherland-ish approach, but only because I lack the skills to achieve the finished product I envision.
The next one I'll be chopping and patching.....but not half as much now that I've self educated at my own expense.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Is it worth it to just use the other shell if it is that good of shape?
I have lost track of what year everything is in this project...
I have lost track of what year everything is in this project...
Delancy,
Just my opinion, but I think you will find the donor's metal just as rusty or a year or two behind your's.
I'd try to use new metal where ever I could.
Just my opinion, but I think you will find the donor's metal just as rusty or a year or two behind your's.
I'd try to use new metal where ever I could.
- Thread starter
- #680
I don't think so, considering I'd be going through most all the same process of installing bobm's panels.
The floor is in much better shape, but I couldn't leave well enough alone not putting these panels in anyway.
Original Pig is '72
Donor Pig is '71 with F.5
Front clip came from '71
I agree with new metal, Ron, and the course that's been decided, for the reason that it's patch able in these locations and I'd hate to chop the bottom off the donor shell, rendering the rest almost useless.
I think the body man is still trying to figure me out, but in his defense, I'm still trying to figure myself out.
I'm excited to see the butchering. I'll have one more day there before being unable until the week after next, and anticipate major changes.
