extended range tank for cheap - mud co-op
- Thread starter euclid
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this is crazy intresting, ..
so i bought my fj60 and the PO intsalled a 96 gm fullsize van tank with a 88 tbi intake electric fuel pump and factory 96 gm sender. it is a 30 gallon or so tank i am told. let me know if you need any pics or anything.
cheers chappy
so i bought my fj60 and the PO intsalled a 96 gm fullsize van tank with a 88 tbi intake electric fuel pump and factory 96 gm sender. it is a 30 gallon or so tank i am told. let me know if you need any pics or anything.
cheers chappy
i can get better pics of it when i get home but right now still stuck here in the suck!!!!! i will give you all the info and pics i have on the tank tonight when i have some time to resize the photos
the only draw back the PO mentioned is the fuel gauge never reads full.
cheers
Do you think there is any room to mount a 2nd stock tank under the original? I had mine out a couple of years ago but I don't remember it's size... If you did that you could run 2 stock set-ups with gauges etc etc and pull fuel from them both at the same time. heck you could probably run 1 gauge when pulling from both since they would empty at just about the same rate... Put a second filler over on the driver (USA) side or plumb something on the pass (USA) side to get to the lower tank...
Any updates?
For the love of God I can't believe this is still going on...
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Yes, we have been working on writing and resizing pics.
Here is the tank we used, from the Mfg's. webcatalog
Here is the tank we used, from the Mfg's. webcatalog
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An intro by Greg Thompson (Euclid):
"A network of friends; how some cruiserheads saved a bunch of money on a long range tank."
Back in April of 2006 Tim Coffey (callfj60) posted a thread to the 60/62 forum on Ih8mud.com wondering if anyone had tried to put a 40 gallon gas tank from a GMC Suburban under a 60 series. Amidst the typical banter the idea began to firm up as a good one. The circa 20 gallon tank just wasn’t cutting it for many members, limiting the big lumbering wagons to around a 200 mile range. Aftermarket options are out there, but not for a working mans budget.
After looking at the facts I had a bold idea. Why not make a co-op out of the project: Look for a guinea-pig who was willing to do the grunt work of figuring out how to make the tank work, and thank him for his time by helping pay for his parts. Jim Chenoweth (FJ40Jim) was just the man. He had a beater truck project, is well know in the cruiser community for his wrenching skills (specifically carburetor rebuilds) but most of all he was willing.
The idea took off marvelously. Only in a community as tight as the Cruiser community will something like this work. Around 15 people from all over the country used PayPal to give Jim $10 - $20 each. Folks that don’t even know either of us trust us to do right with their money.
Well, we started passing the plate in May of 2006. Within a few weeks Jim had enough money to start looking for the parts needed for the big tank. He had a little bump in the project, namely his engine went kaput, but after a rebuild he got back on the tank project.
Thanks to each of the folks who kicked in some dough on this project. Thanks for your trust in others, and willingness to pitch in. I’ll let Jim give us the technical details below.
"A network of friends; how some cruiserheads saved a bunch of money on a long range tank."
Back in April of 2006 Tim Coffey (callfj60) posted a thread to the 60/62 forum on Ih8mud.com wondering if anyone had tried to put a 40 gallon gas tank from a GMC Suburban under a 60 series. Amidst the typical banter the idea began to firm up as a good one. The circa 20 gallon tank just wasn’t cutting it for many members, limiting the big lumbering wagons to around a 200 mile range. Aftermarket options are out there, but not for a working mans budget.
After looking at the facts I had a bold idea. Why not make a co-op out of the project: Look for a guinea-pig who was willing to do the grunt work of figuring out how to make the tank work, and thank him for his time by helping pay for his parts. Jim Chenoweth (FJ40Jim) was just the man. He had a beater truck project, is well know in the cruiser community for his wrenching skills (specifically carburetor rebuilds) but most of all he was willing.
The idea took off marvelously. Only in a community as tight as the Cruiser community will something like this work. Around 15 people from all over the country used PayPal to give Jim $10 - $20 each. Folks that don’t even know either of us trust us to do right with their money.
Well, we started passing the plate in May of 2006. Within a few weeks Jim had enough money to start looking for the parts needed for the big tank. He had a little bump in the project, namely his engine went kaput, but after a rebuild he got back on the tank project.
Thanks to each of the folks who kicked in some dough on this project. Thanks for your trust in others, and willingness to pitch in. I’ll let Jim give us the technical details below.
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"How to stuff a large foreign tank under your (wagon) rear."
By Jim Chenoweth
Land Cruiser Prep:
Stock tank can be drained neatly by siphoning at the front filter hose, using a longer piece of 5/16 hose to come out behind the front tire into waiting 5 gallon can(s).
Roll up rear carpet, remove access panel, disconnect wire to fuel sender unit.
Spray sender unit screws w/ penetrant now, because they can be stuck badly.
Remove pass side rear interior panel, exposing fuel fill neck and vapor recovery plumbing.
By Jim Chenoweth
Land Cruiser Prep:
Stock tank can be drained neatly by siphoning at the front filter hose, using a longer piece of 5/16 hose to come out behind the front tire into waiting 5 gallon can(s).
Roll up rear carpet, remove access panel, disconnect wire to fuel sender unit.
Spray sender unit screws w/ penetrant now, because they can be stuck badly.
Remove pass side rear interior panel, exposing fuel fill neck and vapor recovery plumbing.
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Remove hose shield underneath. Disconnect all vent hoses to tank. Try not to cut vent hoses, some might be re-used.
There is one vent hose that goes from the pass-through to the vent line running forward, that should be left in place.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at front corner of tank. Loosen fill hose clamps. Place floor jack under tank and remove the rear tank strap bolts. Remove stock tank. Unclip & move sender wire (shown here) over to the frame rail.
There is one vent hose that goes from the pass-through to the vent line running forward, that should be left in place.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at front corner of tank. Loosen fill hose clamps. Place floor jack under tank and remove the rear tank strap bolts. Remove stock tank. Unclip & move sender wire (shown here) over to the frame rail.
Last edited:
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Remove the 5 screws that retain the sender. Try tapping the Phillips screwdriver into the head of the screw to get a good fit and maybe shock the rust loose. Because we are not re-using the Toyota tank, the screw heads can be drilled off if they absolutely won’t come loose. Remove the sender so it can be re-used in the Ford tank. You can see why the typical sender is difficult to remove.
We have the old tank out, and the sender removed. Now the original tank can go outside to air dry, and we can work inside the truck.
Remove the 10mm hex bolts retaining the fuel vapor separator located in the rear fender, just ahead of the fill neck. Disconnect all the hoses from the bottom.
Cut the larger hose, put a shanked bolt in it and reinstall as a plug. Use a short section of the smaller hose to loop and connect 2 of the remaining fittings.
We have the old tank out, and the sender removed. Now the original tank can go outside to air dry, and we can work inside the truck.
Remove the 10mm hex bolts retaining the fuel vapor separator located in the rear fender, just ahead of the fill neck. Disconnect all the hoses from the bottom.
Cut the larger hose, put a shanked bolt in it and reinstall as a plug. Use a short section of the smaller hose to loop and connect 2 of the remaining fittings.
ttt..
Are there any more updates to this or did gas get to expensive for us to try to fill this tank up?
So far everything has been really informative. I just want to read the last chapter of the book now.
Thanks guys for taking the chance of trying something like this.
So far everything has been really informative. I just want to read the last chapter of the book now.
Thanks guys for taking the chance of trying something like this.
Wow, a two year in-the-making fuel tank upgrade. I read the whole novel (thread) just to find the last few pages of the book torn out.
My addition to the community project: You could add fuel cell foam to the tank to lessen the fuel slosh and slow the fuel migration in brief off-camber situations. It's cheaper and quicker than cutting open the tank to add baffles.
My addition to the community project: You could add fuel cell foam to the tank to lessen the fuel slosh and slow the fuel migration in brief off-camber situations. It's cheaper and quicker than cutting open the tank to add baffles.
151FAB, Way back on page 4 of this post (Post #120) I had said the same thing about using fuel cell foam. I do agree it would help with the slosh 1,000,000,000%. The fuel cell in my race car was 22 gallons a big rectangle and I never felt or heard the fuel moving around.
Dynosoar
Dynosoar
151FAB, Way back on page 4 of this post (Post #120) I had said the same thing about using fuel cell foam. I do agree it would help with the slosh 1,000,000,000%. The fuel cell in my race car was 22 gallons a big rectangle and I never felt or heard the fuel moving around.
Dynosoar
Sorry I must have missed that. Credit where credit is due: Good call on the foam. you called it like two years before me.
How hard is this to do? Actually, how is it done?
Step 1: Buy the foam
Step 2: remove tank and stuff the foam into the tank via the sender hole
Step 3 put tank back in truck
Not difficult at all. The trick part is to get the foam evenly dispersed in the tank.
Dynosoar
Step 2: remove tank and stuff the foam into the tank via the sender hole
Step 3 put tank back in truck
Not difficult at all. The trick part is to get the foam evenly dispersed in the tank.
Dynosoar
