Engine shutting off during long trips.

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Pinching off your return fuel line sounds like a great way to leak fuel out of your injector seals and burn down your vehicle and garage.
I suppose if someone was careless enough to leave "pinch" on return Edited: Pinching could damage line! line long term, with a very strong fuel pump. It may build some excessive pressure.

But this is a short term test, to give clue as to heath of fuel pump (ie pressure). It's a common practice at Toyota dealerships, as a pre test. We pinch and see if RPMs go up. If so this indicates weak fuel pressure. One I've done more than once, and I've had no fires, fuel leaks or smell. It may also be helpful in diagnosing a crank no start condition, and "may" get one back on the road in a "pinch".

Like jumping a battery, disconnect once started.
 
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***Update***

The dealer replaced the fuel pump and pump relay and I have since driven from Los Angeles to Tuscon AZ in 100+ degree heat for hours on end and Los Angeles to Mammoth in 100+ heat. In total about 3000 miles of hot highway miles with a RTT and pushing 80 MPH in the past 30 days with no stalling issue. I'm hoping the issue is resolved.
Interesting they R&R the fuel pump relay also. Did the test it or say why?
 
Interesting they R&R the fuel pump relay also. Did the test it or say why?

I essentially told them to replace everything that could give rise to the problem since I had two upcoming trips. During the last trip I was stranded in the middle of a busy road in North Las Vegas (not the best area).

They wanted to replace the fuel pump resistor assembly as well but couldn't find the matching part number, see previous post.

The dealer did say that the "frequency" on the fuel pump was outside of specification.
 
I would bet good money that pump is causing code P0430 for my case as I concluded in my post Annoying P0430 need to solve it. #89
so what would be good replacement for Fuel pump?
I've been using:
Denso 950-0210 fuel pump, in the 06-07 2uz-fe VVT. No complaints.
I replace the gasket at top of tank also 77169-33020.
Along with fuel filter 23300-50090.

But seem you issue with bad gas.
 
Have an 06LC and just found this...

While towing, after going uphill in higher temps 85 or higher, the engine stumbles, but never shuts off or dies. Throws a p0308 8th cylinder misfire (on the code reader I have hooked up while driving) but is always a pending code that disappears after turning off the ignition. Runs fine for awhile again unless I have to climb again and it repeats. Seems better after a long rest.

Is this the same issue of dying under excessive heat and load? Changed multiple coil packs, plugs and no fix so New fuel pump sounds good to me!
 
Likely #8 coil is failing. I've seen this a few times where a cylinder will show misfire, but only under load. Make sure all spark plugs torque to spec

 
on the 4th coil pack and 2nd new plug so I feel I somewhat ruled those out because no fix...this thread gave me hope of a possible solution. Thanks for the ideas and help!
 
I've been using:
Denso 950-0210 fuel pump, in the 06-07 2uz-fe VVT. No complaints.
I replace the gasket at top of tank also 77169-33020.
Along with fuel filter 23300-50090.

But seem you issue with bad gas.
Very possible I changed to 95 premium and light went off the next day.
 
This thread has been a lifesaver. My wife got to the point that she didn't want to travel in my Land Cruiser anymore because she was afraid of it shutting off on the highway again. We live in Mexico and the free roads don't have shoulders to pull over on. It happened twice, both times coming and going from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta. Both times it was hot, between 90-100 degrees. One time the truck was full with 7 people and the second time it was just my wife and me.

I just had the fuel pump and the fuel filter changed, and now I'm ready for a little road trip to test out the theory.

Thanks for the help. I'm planning a Baja Road Trip for later this year and resolving this issue is a big priority
 
This thread has been a lifesaver. My wife got to the point that she didn't want to travel in my Land Cruiser anymore because she was afraid of it shutting off on the highway again. We live in Mexico and the free roads don't have shoulders to pull over on. It happened twice, both times coming and going from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta. Both times it was hot, between 90-100 degrees. One time the truck was full with 7 people and the second time it was just my wife and me.

I just had the fuel pump and the fuel filter changed, and now I'm ready for a little road trip to test out the theory.

Thanks for the help. I'm planning a Baja Road Trip for later this year and resolving this issue is a big priority
For a good time try these 649 posts. @medtro pointed me to #547 when mine recently flamed out on I80. I had the pleasure of it happening again a couple days ago in line to Lassen Natl Park. Nothing like getting pushed out of line by park employees for a 30 minute timeout. I also have fuel pump parts on order but suspect it'll take heat shielding of sorts as well. My cooling system is solid which seems a potential contributing factor for others in the other thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen
 
For a good time try these 649 posts. @medtro pointed me to #547 when mine recently flamed out on I80. I had the pleasure of it happening again a couple days ago in line to Lassen Natl Park. Nothing like getting pushed out of line by park employees for a 30 minute timeout. I also have fuel pump parts on order but suspect it'll take heat shielding of sorts as well. My cooling system is solid which seems a potential contributing factor for others in the other thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gas-tank-building-excessive-pressure-fuel-smell-dangerous-for-sure-why-does-this-happen

Could it be post #657? Did you install the cooler?
 
Could it be post #657? Did you install the cooler?
Could it be post #657? Did you install the cooler?
I saw that also. Seems right if it doesn't involve running gas out front. Could it be especially helpful if the significant source of the heat isn't necessarily the engine, but more the catalytic converter on top of some increased engine output at elevation on a hot day? (note I meant #579, but the link was right). Has anyone put in a cooler? There's mention of an exhaust heat shield install which I mean to look into. Not that this thread needs another 600 posts but, surely someone's sorted it out by now?
 
Could it be post #657? Did you install the cooler?

I saw that also. Seems right if it doesn't involve running gas out front. Could it be especially helpful if the significant source of the heat isn't necessarily the engine, but more the catalytic converter on top of some increased engine output at elevation on a hot day? (note I meant #579, but the link was right). Has anyone put in a cooler? There's mention of an exhaust heat shield install which I mean to look into. Not that this thread needs another 600 posts but, surely someone's sorted it out by now?
Ive been meaning to do an update but havent had time. I added the store bought heat shielding for lines and changed out the fuel pump and havent had any more issues. We had 2-3 weeks of 95 plus days in Albuquerque recently and the LX has had no issues. I did run it with only the heat sheilding for a while and didnt have anymore issues but changing out the fuel pump was peace of mine. Good luck!
 
Interesting idea. IDK how to do that, do you? I'd only do short term as a test. Since driving like that too long, would likely overheat pump further.

"Manifold Temp" Are you meaning cylinder hard temps?

One other thing may be to pinch off return line. This increase fuel pressure in rails. If RPMs go up, it's a clue of low fuel pressure. Which is likely fuel pump and or fuel pressure regulator issue(s).

But usually with these 06-07 fuel pumps. That by just engine shutting down (stalling) and waiting a few minutes. They fire back up. So we tend to just drive without further ado!

I've one now we're trying to get ECT (engine coolant temp) down. One thing we're going to try is a new fuel pump. It had a crank no start, after a heat soak (boiling fuel). It's possible it's running lean at times due to heat soak and high outside air temp (OAT). Thinking is, heat increasing resistance in wiring and pump motor. The shutting down, may be clue of a bad fuel pump during heat soak. Slowing flow and pressure of fuel delivery to rails/injectors. Causing a lean running condition (hot cylinder head temps). Also fuel heating, may also reduce fuel delivery to cylinders, as molecules expand. Also adding to lean condition.




I did run pump by cranking engine with fuel line off filter. But it was not a heat soaked condition. I didn't measure volume either and didn't have issue with that fuel pump. It was on the Unicron. I now know, why it had gunk buildup at fuel hatch door. Engine CAT were overheating and thus so was fuel. I found the radiator fins badly clogged and suspect coolant was low for a long time (20K miles in one year). Engine got so hot, hoses disclosed and plastic melted, even the block was disclosed. I now know the gunk under the fuel hatch door, was sign of fuel boiling. Once I had it all back together. I test drove, it had no fuel pump (factory pump) issues or and any other.

But today I've a better understanding of the fuel pump issue in 06-07. As such I'm inclined to recommended replacement of fuel pump proactively.

What I see as they heat up, from running in it's high speed (engine pulling vehicle up a hill does this) typically on a hot day. They fail and engine shuts down, as pump relay drops power to pump for lower RPM low pump speed. It's not the relay but the pump itself that fails.

Wire starting at battery post and grounds, I do feel have effect. After all, corrosion and age increase resistance, reducing AMPs to fuel pump. So age certainly is a factor.

But my first experience with these 06-07 fuel pump issue, was in Snowy when brand new. PO (one owner) had complained from mile ~1. Toyota Dealership tested and tested, again and again over next 95K miles. Even had pressure gauge and tech stream hooked up and w/service manager, shop froman and mechanic (master) in the vehicle. Drove to into mountains to recreate and could not find any issues. They keep testing fuel pump time and time again. Finally for some reason, they just tossed in a new fuel pump. History showed the next 100K mile after new pump installed, and AFASIK, still works today without issue.

I'm convinced the factory pump in the 06-07 which is a smaller Denso than past (98-05 Denso and Aisin fuel pumps) years, has a defect. They get hot and resistance builds, pump slows, and then engine runs lean. Often stalling as pump switch back to low speed VIA relay reducing volts/AMP. Put in a new fuel pump and cleaning up battery post/cables/wire block and all works fine. Just pump resolves issue. But one's asking for issue, if battery area and grounds not serviced also.

To test pressure of these fuel pumps, is usually not going to be revealing. The best test is in real word on a hot summer day.


It's not a bad idea. But you can wait until first time you've a shut down.

Few tip when replacing fuel pump:
Relieve fuel pressure, by disconnecting wire block under DS passaged door and frame rail, crank engine, disconnect battery.
Hose off top of gas tank, once body access hatch under seat removed.
Replace tank seal at top of pump assembly.
I haven't read the entire thread yet, but I have been having issues with "vapor locking" for lack of a better word. For the past couple of days i have poured all of m free time learning how to read 3d graphs that incorporate, temperature, pressure, and ethanol% of gasoline, as a junior in high school i just havent been able to make sense of much of the variables or standards used, but i do know that running ethanol free gas has completely stopped the problem for us, but wheres the fun in only getting to use one type of gas. From my findings and my scenario ethanol free gas does help the engine to run quite a bit cooler (being able to touch the top radiator hose while engine is running on ethanol free, but it being too hot on regular gas). I have tracked down our first event of "vapor locking" to almost exactly a week after i installed onboard air. In the process of creating my own mount, i had to "relocate" some electrical box that has a black cage around it to not burn yourself ust to right inbetween the airbox and the fender, i also put the mount directly over the fuel pump resistor which i remember getting too hat to touch even when it had direct airflow.
PXL_20210630_055322427.jpg
PXL_20210630_055315421 (1).jpg

In the photos you can see where i had to relocate these electronics to and how they arent getting much to any cooling now. I guess my main question is would the engine running a bit coolr because of the ethanol free gas really make a big enough effect on these components temprature to not have them overheat?
 
I haven't read the entire thread yet, but I have been having issues with "vapor locking" for lack of a better word. For the past couple of days i have poured all of m free time learning how to read 3d graphs that incorporate, temperature, pressure, and ethanol% of gasoline, as a junior in high school i just havent been able to make sense of much of the variables or standards used, but i do know that running ethanol free gas has completely stopped the problem for us, but wheres the fun in only getting to use one type of gas. From my findings and my scenario ethanol free gas does help the engine to run quite a bit cooler (being able to touch the top radiator hose while engine is running on ethanol free, but it being too hot on regular gas). I have tracked down our first event of "vapor locking" to almost exactly a week after i installed onboard air. In the process of creating my own mount, i had to "relocate" some electrical box that has a black cage around it to not burn yourself ust to right inbetween the airbox and the fender, i also put the mount directly over the fuel pump resistor which i remember getting too hat to touch even when it had direct airflow. View attachment 2929602View attachment 2929603
In the photos you can see where i had to relocate these electronics to and how they arent getting much to any cooling now. I guess my main question is would the engine running a bit coolr because of the ethanol free gas really make a big enough effect on these components temprature to not have them overheat?
What year and miles?
I've dozen of thread and PM's going. Add vehicle info to signture line is time saver and very helpful!
 
not sure where the signature line is, but i have a 2007 toyota with almost 150k miles.
All accounts can add a signture line in mud. You should be able to see my signture line below.

06-07 have a weak fuel pump. Typically they show themselves as they get hot. This happens mostly on hot or warm days, after running in high RPM for a few minutes. Like when pulling up a mountain pass. Then as we let off gas pedal to descent mtn pass, engine dies from fuel starvation (lean fuel bk 1 & 2). What happens is fuel pump heats up in high speed mod, building up resistance in motor and possible it's circuit.. Then as we let of gas, fuel pump drops back to low speed mod. The increase resistance due to heat, reduces fuel pressure/flow. Fuel pump fails to produce enough follow/pressure.

That said:

I don't see ethanol free gas making much difference, to fuel pump. Other than return (EVAP) fuel heating around engine, heating fuel in tank. This could raise fuel pump temp a little.

Blocking fuel pump resistor heat sink, could affect resistance I suppose. Condition starting just afterwards, certainly points to a relationship. Getting it stall "on demand", then remove blockage (aftermarket air) and try to repeat. Would be helpful diagnostic tool..

Your engine may be running hot:

This could be from engine & it's coolant system in need of service. A starting point even before removing aftermarket air. Is to monitor engine cool temp (ECT), fuel trims long & short term (FT), RPM, MPH, IAT (intake air temp) and CAT temps. This is done by hooking into tech stream and motioning actual data as you drive a recreate stall.


Fuel boiling:
There is another issue we see on all years. "fuel boiling". In most I find, engine is running hot. This is very often engine & coolant system issues, that need correcting. Once corrected, most 98-02 (before Charcoal canister CC moved to rear) stall issue goes away for the most part. But in the 03-07 (CC moved to rear), these tend to keep having fuel boiling issues.


Some think all 100 series boil fuel. This is simple not so. Many stock and built rig, don't. None, did the day they came from the factory. So something happens along the way

If you like stop by and we can take a test drive. I can hook into tech stream and monitor. I'll also look over and see if I can spot and signs that point to over heating issues and or fuel boiling.

Just PM (private message) your phone number and or email. I'm in Greenwood near Trader Joe's . We can set a time for you to stop by.
 
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Signatures don’t show up on mobile 🤷‍♂️ I wrapped my fuel lines with heat wrap, specifically where they go by the cat and it seemed to fix the boiling in my ‘06. It’s a crap shoot, many different attempts … no definitive fix.

Tucker
 
Signatures don’t show up on mobile 🤷‍♂️ I wrapped my fuel lines with heat wrap, specifically where they go by the cat and it seemed to fix the boiling in my ‘06. It’s a crap shoot, many different attempts … no definitive fix.

Tucker
same, we wrapped our fuel lines by the cats, but tat didnt seem to fix, one of the times it did stall, i reached under and didnt feel them even getting warm. Personally i think it has something to do with evap and or the vsv valve not opening and closing properly (which you can acuatiate on tech stream). I cant remember if it allows oyu to do it while the car is running. If it doesnt allow you to do it while the car is running this could be a clue that it is evectivly creating a vacume leak inorder to pull vapors out of the gas tank.
 

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