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- #241
Builds Elma the red 60 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter joebattle1
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- #242
This was solid advice Nate. Thanks man. You were absolutely right. This journey was a good jumping off point to prepare for the swap. I need to go pick up this Tahoe soon and start the teardown process. Going to take me a year at least to gather up the goods then I'm hoping I can get the swap done in 6 months which means 1 year in real life. Hoping to mostly just drive the truck this summer with the refreshed 2F. I really dig this motor. Gonna figure out how to do the 5 speed this summer though. That's on my must do list.
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- #243
Finally got around to redoing the oil pan for the second time. This time with a new pan. This made it somewhat easier I guess. I learned a couple new tricks this time around.
1. SnapUps. These things are well worth it. Buy 12 of them or 3 packs so you can put them in every other hole.
2. Get two longer bolts than the stock pan bolts. You use these to help you "land" the pan as the stock bolts are a bear to get seated cause they are so short and the cork needs to compress slightly to get the bolts to grab.
I also bought a 1/4 inch Harbor Freight torque wrench and torqued all the bolts in sequence working my way from the middle outwards. Setting the wrench to 55inch pounds then going back around again to get to 69inch pounds.
I also dumped the coolant again and put a new oil cooler hose on as I forgot to do this when I had the rad off and it started leaking.
There is still a slight oil leak seemingly coming from the timing gear cover so i tightened those down a bit by hand again. We'll give it a few more heat cycles and see if it needs another couple turns.
1. SnapUps. These things are well worth it. Buy 12 of them or 3 packs so you can put them in every other hole.
2. Get two longer bolts than the stock pan bolts. You use these to help you "land" the pan as the stock bolts are a bear to get seated cause they are so short and the cork needs to compress slightly to get the bolts to grab.
I also bought a 1/4 inch Harbor Freight torque wrench and torqued all the bolts in sequence working my way from the middle outwards. Setting the wrench to 55inch pounds then going back around again to get to 69inch pounds.
I also dumped the coolant again and put a new oil cooler hose on as I forgot to do this when I had the rad off and it started leaking.
There is still a slight oil leak seemingly coming from the timing gear cover so i tightened those down a bit by hand again. We'll give it a few more heat cycles and see if it needs another couple turns.
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Nice job man. Really like the snapup's idea! Wish I had those when I was doing the oil pan on my old crawler..
Gretsch
SILVER Star
So any improvement on the slight oil leak after the tighten down of the timing cover bolts?
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- #246
Heya Robert, it’s still leaking a little. I tightened the oil pan again 2 days ago to 75 inch pounds. I also tightened up the timing cover a half a turn. I’ll drive around today and see if it’s any better.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Yeah mine still has a seep to it too right on the larger lower TC bolts. It does not drip just has a bit of oil around the seal at the bottom of the timing cover. Have debated whether to try tightening those risking breaking whatever seal is there or just going with what I got. Just curious if you had luck with the tightening efforts. Thanks for checking.
Could it be the oil squirter? I’m not there yet on my engine restore, but I have read many times that the oil squirter that screws into the timing plate gets screwed in too far and hits the block pushing the plate out just slightly enough that it causes a leak, and it comes from the bottom of the timing cover.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
There’s no need to even touch the squirter if your doing the timing gear cover gasket. When I had my cam out which THEN allowed me to take timing gear plate off I didn’t even touch the squirter. It was staked and there was no need to break the stake and mess w/ the in or out depth of the squirter.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Yeah I did not mess with the squirter to re-do the timing cover. I had always read the squirter issue could be the cause of a plate seal leak, but don't recall ever reading it to be the cause of a TC seal leak. Maybe so but not something I had ever seen. I guess it could distort the plate enough to not provide a flat surface for the TC to seal to, but seems unlikely based on my experience. Can someone confirm that?
My plate seal leaks too, but its been that way since getting the truck. I would most likely be in full engine rebuild mode if needing to replace that plate seal. I thought about replacing the plate seal when doing my cooling system stuff, but I think @OSS or someone talked me out of doing that because of the difficulty (removing camshafts and whatnot) and I reasoned I would at some point like to have my 2F rebuilt and would tackle that job then. My plate seal leak is the least of my leak worries at the moment. If she ran as well as she leaks oil, I'd be in good shape. Rather than oil leaks, I like to refer to them as part of the "Toyota Automatic Rust Inhibitor System".
Works great!!
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Is the whole oil pan gasket leaking or just one particular location?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Take it from me, if you ever want to pull your cam, don’t do it my way. Get a cherry picker and at minimum lift the engine up while it’s in the bay. Jacking up the engine and cutting and bending the crossmember was way stressful. Doable, but really half assed.Yeah I did not mess with the squirter to re-do the timing cover. I had always read the squirter issue could be the cause of a plate seal leak, but don't recall ever reading it to be the cause of a TC seal leak. Maybe so but not something I had ever seen. I guess it could distort the plate enough to not provide a flat surface for the TC to seal to, but seems unlikely based on my experience. Can someone confirm that?
My plate seal leaks too, but its been that way since getting the truck. I would most likely be in full engine rebuild mode if needing to replace that plate seal. I thought about replacing the plate seal when doing my cooling system stuff, but I think @OSS or someone talked me out of doing that because of the difficulty (removing camshafts and whatnot) and I reasoned I would at some point like to have my 2F rebuilt and would tackle that job then. My plate seal leak is the least of my leak worries at the moment. If she ran as well as she leaks oil, I'd be in good shape. Rather than oil leaks, I like to refer to them as part of the "Toyota Automatic Rust Inhibitor System".
I never put my plate and my timing cover together off the truck on my bench nor did I ever measure the squirter height from its staked point on the plate or the depth of the cover but I’d ‘imagine’ they have at least an 1/8” or more difference between them.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
He said, it’s just by the backside of the timing cover.
@joebattle1 did you really say you torqued the oil pan bolts to 75”/lb? My memory says they aren’t supposed to be more than 10”/lb.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
That was my recollection as well.
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- #255
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Yep being curious now, I checked my FSM and it says same as yours Joe. 53-104 inch pounds. I remembered it being less. Screw me and carry on.
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- #257
Yep being curious now, I checked my FSM and it says same as yours Joe. 53-104 inch pounds. Screw me and carry on.
@NeverGiveUpYota Maybe you're thinking in "Foot Pounds". Scared the crap out of me though... Had to go dbl check I wasn't crazy AND stupid.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
That could be it. Even so tho if you divide 75 by 12, you get 6.25 feet/pound and 104 would be 8.66 feet/pound... so I’m not sure where I got 10.@NeverGiveUpYota Maybe you're thinking in "Foot Pounds". Scared the crap out of me though... Had to go dbl check I wasn't crazy AND stupid.
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- Thread starter
- #259
That could be it. Even so tho if you divide 75 by 12, you get 6.25 feet/pound and 104 would be 8.66 feet/pound... so I’m not sure where I got 10.
3FE Manual says 69 inch lbs.
- Thread starter
- #260
Been a while since I checked in here... Truck is running great for the most part. Still have a small oil leak from the pan but I'm over it for now. I'll do the pan gasket again when I do the H55 swap this summer. Georg is gonna help me knock out the 5 speed.
I still haven't done a hot valve adjust. Still running it on the valve adjust that I did when I put the head back on.
I bought a canoe the other day and had to drive deep in the valley to get it. First time I've run the truck for hours at a time. It was also hot in the valley, about 85 and the truck started running a bit warm on the freeway... About 3/4 on the gauge. I turned the heat and the rear heat on and that brought the temp back down. Maybe my new CSF radiator sucks balls. It never ran into the red... Just a bit on the warm side. Should I be concerned? Everything in the cooling system is new. Clutch fan, fan, water pump, t-stat, hoses... It's gotta be that rad right?
Here's a pic of the new to me canoe (sorry I posted this in the "boats and hoe's" page all ready)
I still haven't done a hot valve adjust. Still running it on the valve adjust that I did when I put the head back on.
I bought a canoe the other day and had to drive deep in the valley to get it. First time I've run the truck for hours at a time. It was also hot in the valley, about 85 and the truck started running a bit warm on the freeway... About 3/4 on the gauge. I turned the heat and the rear heat on and that brought the temp back down. Maybe my new CSF radiator sucks balls. It never ran into the red... Just a bit on the warm side. Should I be concerned? Everything in the cooling system is new. Clutch fan, fan, water pump, t-stat, hoses... It's gotta be that rad right?
Here's a pic of the new to me canoe (sorry I posted this in the "boats and hoe's" page all ready)
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