Electronic Ignition (1 Viewer)

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Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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There have been a lot of posts on electronic Ignition.

There is the Mel's Version (Similar to Petronix):
http://jtoutfitters.com/category/performance.electronic_ignition/

You can either kit the kit ($99) or the whole distributor ($369.95). Petronix is not an option because I have a 77

There is the SOR Optical (Scroll to the bottom of the page):
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat024.tam?xax=14696&page.ctx=cat024.tam
This just comes in a conversion kit for $145.

or you can get the HEI:
http://www.man-a-fre.com/feature_items/duidist.htm $375

What I am trying to find out and hasn't been in any other post is the following question:

Is it better to buy the HEI Dist for $375 or do you get similar performance improvement from the $99 Mel's kit?

Thanks,

Ken (Obviously, this is the next mod I have my sights on)
 
OR
You can use any 81-87 2F distributor, ignitor, and coil and get a Toyota vacuum advance, waterproof, ball bearing, maintence free ignition.
Cost me $125.
 
Bailey,
A little more info please. Take out the old and bolt on the new, or any modifications required.

$125 new? Where?

Thanks,

Ken
 
Here is another one: $395
http://www.performancedistributors.com/toyotadui.htm

Also found this recommendation on the TLCA Tech Exchange

[glow=red,2,300]I strongly recommend the factory stock electronic ignition system as offered in the '78 and '79 FJ series. This distributor and matching ignitor are available as new replacement parts, and far more affordably on the used market as well. It will fit right into your '77 with out any mods (the later electronic distributors require modification or replacement of the side cover due to the larger size of the cap and body). It will provide dependable and maintenance free spark at all RPMs that a Cruiser engine should ever see. It will handle high performance coils. It has a dual "advance/retard" vacuum module which provides for more total advance while still allowing easier starting and less spark knock under heavy load.

The cap attaches to the body with three screws rather than clips, and it has a rubber "O" ring as well. It is effectively waterproof. I have sat with one of these underwater and the engine idling away with no problem. It has a vacum line and a vent line to the carb, which does a very good job of evacuating any moisture that does find it's way in, before it collects in large enough amounts to cause misfiring.

Mark Whatley [/glow]
 
Heres what I did to use a 81-87 dist.
Removed and replaced pushrod cover with 81-87 cover.
Installed new dist.
Bolted new coil/igntor in location of old one (had to wallow out one holt so both bolts would fit)
Extended 2 wire lead to distributor 1 foot.
Hooked up keyed 12v from supply to ballast resistor (resistor is no longer used).
Terminated old wires that are no longer used.
Set timing, hooked up vac from carb. (you may have to drill and install a port on carb for vac advance, I didn;t have to cause Jim C recently rebuilt my carb and did it for me, Toddslater on this board did)
Runs GREAT.

You do not have to replace the pushrod cover. You can dent it with a hammer, Toddslater did that.

One thing-reinstalling the new distributor is a little bit more difficult because it does not allow for as much rotation like the older ones, you have to be more careful when inserting it into the cam gear and oil pump drive.

One question-have you ever installed a distributor before? If not, the reinstallation part could be tricky, I had someone nearby to explain what needed to happen, face to face, and then I got it.
By far the longest part of the job was the pushrod cover exchange.
 
Ken, I see you found what I was going to post, a 78-79 ign. would be the easiest bolt on for your 77. Go to cruiserparts.net they'll have what you want for alot less than the others that you've been looking at.
 
No experiance what so ever. I am learning as I go. Maybe I am back to my original question because those SEEM to be bolt on replacements. Drilling a hole in my carb scare me a little too! It's like Dirty harry says, "A mans gotta know his limitations."

Thanks,

ken
 
Would a cruiser electronic dizzy work on my 65FJ40? I am guessing that I couldn't just bolt on a pushrod cover from a 2F. Thanks.
 
Actually, yes you can. My 74 is an F. No different than yours.
You can just dent the pushrod cover. Much faster.
 
Romer,

The SOR optical kit (XR700) costs $145, as you say... but it costs $90 from Summit. They also have a higher spark model (XR3000, no ballast resistor required) for $125.

http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?p=4608&searchtype=ecat

They seem like a good option for people who want easy setup, and have cruisers in the years not covered by pertronix, but I have no personal experience with them.

-Anthro
 
[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110553#msg110553 date=1077761685]
Actually, yes you can. My 74 is an F. No different than yours.
You can just dent the pushrod cover. Much faster.
[/quote]

Would I have to drill my carb too?
 
All that matters is that the dist. gets ported vacuum.
So, possibly, I can't remember if your year is factory vac advance or not. If so, then no drilling.
Maybe Todd will post up here, I don't believe its very difficult, as in if you can swap a dist. you shouldn't have a problem.
 
What about a 77 relative to the carb?
 
Ok, so apparently I do have a Vac advance dizzy so that means it will just pop in? Also what year dizzy is better, 78 or 81-87? Does the big cap actually make a difference? Would I have to hammer the pushrod cover for the small cap dizzy?
 
[quote author=red64toy link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110779#msg110779 date=1077777243]
Would I have to hammer the pushrod cover for the small cap dizzy?
[/quote]

No.
 
[quote author=red64toy link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110779#msg110779 date=1077777243]
Ok, so apparently I do have a Vac advance dizzy so that means it will just pop in? Also what year dizzy is better, 78 or 81-87? Does the big cap actually make a difference? Would I have to hammer the pushrod cover for the small cap dizzy?
[/quote]
The fact that you have vac advance means that you will not have to drill your carb, you can use your old vacuum line.
Jim C.-
The best upgrade is a"big-cap" 81-87 2F electronic distributor & coil.  It is waterproof, all ball-bearing, maintenance free and the matching coil & ignitor is powerful.  To install the late model distributor in your early engine requires either denting your pushrod cover, or swapping on the dented 81-87 pushrod/side cover.
 
[quote author=romer link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110488#msg110488 date=1077756651]


Is it better to buy the HEI Dist for $375 or do you get similar performance improvement from the $99 Mel's kit?




[/quote]


You will get the same performance improvement: none.

You can get performance improvement simply by tuning up your engine, but the stock distributor will give you the same performance as any other distributor/ignition if it is in good working order.
There are good reasons for having an electronic ignition, like reliability and not needing to replace the points, but performance isn't one of them (at least in a 2F that is never going to see RPM > 4,500). If you are after performance, save your money for a 350 small block.
 
yeah, pin head is right.

the only reason people see an improvement in performance after a new dizzy install is that they tune the carb and adjust the timing so it's actually right.


i would get an HEI diz out of a chevy and go with that. i did it with one out of a 79 nova (straight 6).

there is a great tech write-up on this in the tech links.

malphrus
 
[quote author=Pin_Head link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110971#msg110971 date=1077813385]
You will get the same performance improvement: none.

[/quote]
I see what you mean.
However many cruisers do not have vacuum advance. That IS a performance improvement. My truck was tuned up, with freshly rebuilt carbuerator, newish points, cap, rotor, and wires prior to my installation of electronic ign. with vac advance.
I needed vac advance, I could have used an early distributor and gotten it but decided instead to go to electronic at the same time.
 
I am doing the same swap on my 77 2f, I now have all the parts, found a fj60 coil/ignitor for $40 a fj60 dizzy for $40 and a side cover for $10, will add new plug wires and new cap and rotor. all this and the stock 67 f motor 1 barrel ;)

Me I am just tired of messing with the points, but as of now it seems to be giving me no issues......

I have never puller or installed a dizzy so I gonna have my buddy give me a hand and moral support :)

John

[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=12092;start=msg110518#msg110518 date=1077759419]
Heres what I did to use a 81-87 dist.
Removed and replaced pushrod cover with 81-87 cover.
Installed new dist.
Bolted new coil/igntor in location of old one (had to wallow out one holt so both bolts would fit)
Extended 2 wire lead to distributor 1 foot.
Hooked up keyed 12v from supply to ballast resistor (resistor is no longer used).
Terminated old wires that are no longer used.
Set timing, hooked up vac from carb. (you may have to drill and install a port on carb for vac advance, I didn;t have to cause Jim C recently rebuilt my carb and did it for me, Toddslater on this board did)
Runs GREAT.

You do not have to replace the pushrod cover. You can dent it with a hammer, Toddslater did that.

One thing-reinstalling the new distributor is a little bit more difficult because it does not allow for as much rotation like the older ones, you have to be more careful when inserting it into the cam gear and oil pump drive.

One question-have you ever installed a distributor before? If not, the reinstallation part could be tricky, I had someone nearby to explain what needed to happen, face to face, and then I got it.
By far the longest part of the job was the pushrod cover exchange.
[/quote]
 

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