EDIC problems (1 Viewer)

[NLandcruiser]

Hi everyone,

I think this is my first post on the forum here, been reading a lot but never did active posting. I'm a Dutch owner of a '86 HJ60 24V, it's my second one. The other I drown some years ago, but I got wiser, so this one is a keeper.. I guess.

Well, since some months I'm having black smoke when accelerating, drtiving uphill or with a trailer. First I thought it was just random, because it wasn't always. Later I found out that it was only when I started my truck when the motor was already warm. The EDIC motor was put in the cold start or over-ignition position and stayed there. Starting with a cold motor wasn't a problem at all.

Alright, knowing that, I started to test some thing with EDIC control, EDIC motor and fuel pump. I found out that the problem is inside the EDIC control. So I want to take this out, because I hate electronics which are causing problems, mechanical, or more simple electronics are better in my opinion. As I already siad, I've been reading a lot, but I can never find what holds the 3 positions of the EDIC motor.

I already found out that if I put 24V on IG and M of the EDIC controller (car's side), the EDIC motor starts turning it's rounds like a wiper motor. I has 3 other connections: OI, D and S. I know what they mean, these are the 3 positions, but how can I easily let the motor stop on one of these positions? When reading the diagram I should say 24V on one of the connections, but I'm not sure.

Can anyone please explain this to me?

Thanks in advance guys!

Best regards,
Bram.

 

[NLandcruiser]

Sorry, I said I put 24V on IG and M, of course IG has already 24 out of it, so I linked a cable from IG to M, to give the EDIC motor 24V. That's when it starts turning around when putting my key in ignition position.

 

[duncanrm]

You can just run a simple stop cable.. an old choke cable, or bonnet release cable for example. Dead easy, so simple, never have a problem again.

A few images here to give you an idea: EDIC Cable

Three caveats though

1. You do lose the automatic shutdown of the engine if oil pressure is lost - a buzzer can be used to warn the driver instead (image at link above)
2. You are more prone to the engine starting up in reverse if you accidentally roll backwards in a forward gear - this does still happen with the EDIC fitted but generally the loss of oil pressure kills it after a few seconds
3. You will lose the overfuel startup position - in my experience even in freezing temperatures I've never had a starting problem though, I honestly feel the overfuel position is not required.

 

[dmaddox]

NLandcruiser,

I have been through the 24v EDIC system extensively - I have diagrams and breakdown the whole system.

Please review my BJ42 build, starting here on page 11 (but more info in late 20's pages):

dmaddox's 1981 BJ42 restoration and information thread!

I hope this helps.

 

[fwed]

Hi when the edic pulls back to OI (or cold start) it pulls against a spring in a thing toyota calls a capsule . That spring holds the edic in run position the spring rusts out. Needs new capsule it is adjustable aswell. Cheers

 

[fwed]

part number 22336 68010

 

[NLandcruiser]

View attachment 1752724 part number 22336 68010

Thanks Fwed, as I can see this capsule is in the fuel pump? And is it likely that the fuel pump stays in OI position when starting with an already warmed up motor?

 

[NLandcruiser]

Just checked your theory by hand Fwed: the rod between EDIC motor and pump is out, and when moving the handle of the pump into OI position with a hot motor, it does not stay there, but immediately goes back into its D position. So I guess the pump is fine, and problems are being accused by the EDIC control.

I'll try to get a new control or make a manual cable, that's fine to me too. But still want to know what kind of signal (is it just volt?) from the EDIC controller let the EDIC motor stop at one of the 3 positions..

 

[NLandcruiser]

Guys, my question is not yet exactly answered, but the problem is solved! Thanks everyone for the advice!

(The button right above the motor shut down button is my manual glow, so both the glow and the EDIC controller are in the past now!)

 

[Greg_B]

A little late to the races here and hope I am understanding your question but will post up in the case it helps in the future.

I just took my EDIC apart for what I hope is my last time in a long while. I removed all the grease from a rebuild years ago and replaced it with some Molykote 33 light. My guess was whatever grease was used years ago during the rebuild was mucking up the connection at the copper control disc, as I had been dealing with increasingly hesitant EDIC system between long periods of no use.

I took a few pictures to make sure what went back together looked like what came apart.

1st picture is of the EDIC showing the orientation of the arm that moves the fuel lever on the pump.

2nd picture is of the cover off and the orientation of the two gears and the arm between them. The two gears are indexed with a dot you should be able to see in the photos.

3rd picture is of the gears removed, as well as the contact disc (upside down in the tray) which when placed down into the bowl, creates and contact points needed for the cycle of stop, over inject to start and run positions.

I did not have to go any further this time (but have in the past...look out for the small bearings at the ends of the rotor iirc) but cleaned it all up, re-greased and put it all back together. It's been working great since then.

From what you described I would think this area is where to explore, if you're inclined to dig into it again.

Lots more photos and a better write-up on this thread, where I heard about Molykote 33 Light.

hth's
gb

 

[NLandcruiser]

Thanks Greg for your additional information!

I’m still using my motor stop cable, works great. But, I want to drill a hole in the handle that controls the fuel pump, to make my cable work more smooth. As this handle is out of RVS or something, it’s very hard to drill the hole while the handle is still in it’s place. Does anyone know what happens if I loosen the small bold that clamps the handle to the small axle of the pump? Will the axle move to another position if I take of the handle? It feels like it’s under pression by a spring or something. Has anyone done this before? Thanks!

Regards, Bram.

 

[duncanrm]

Will the axle move to another position if I take of the handle? It feels like it’s under pression by a spring or something. Has anyone done this before? Thanks!

Dont do it.. you'll have to open up the governor housing to get the correct postion re-established. I made the mistake you've just avoided.

 

[NLandcruiser]

Thanks Duncan! I’m glad that I’ve been carefull, I was already suspecting this. Thanks for your answer!

Regards,
Bram.

 

[hj 60]

RVS = stainless steel
I have a box with cobalt drills and should have bought that way sooner as they drill trough everything, just use drilling oil to keep them sharp.

 

[NLandcruiser]

Thanks other Dutch HJ60.. Of course it is stainless steel!

 

[Sherman Tank]

You can just run a simple stop cable.. an old choke cable, or bonnet release cable for example. Dead easy, so simple, never have a problem again.

A few images here to give you an idea: EDIC Cable

Three caveats though

1. You do lose the automatic shutdown of the engine if oil pressure is lost - a buzzer can be used to warn the driver instead (image at link above)
2. You are more prone to the engine starting up in reverse if you accidentally roll backwards in a forward gear - this does still happen with the EDIC fitted but generally the loss of oil pressure kills it after a few seconds
3. You will lose the overfuel startup position - in my experience even in freezing temperatures I've never had a starting problem though, I honestly feel the overfuel position is not required.

I'm thinking about engineering two cables, so that one is the shut off and the other is the overfuel for cold starts. Has anyone done that? A solid bar coming through the firewall would be ideal, but the heater is in the way on the cabin side of the firewall. A lever that would allow a bar to make it through the firewall, while allowing a overfuel plus shut off would be awesome - but I don't have the time to work it out.

 

[Dieseler]

do you not have an idle cable already on the lower dash.
all my cruisers have this cable which controls the butterfly in the plenom (sp) so I can fast idle on cold mornings similar to a choke.
The cable is connected to the gas pedal and lock at what ever rpm you want.

 

[Sherman Tank]

Yeah it has one of those, I also hold the pedal down halfway to start, but figured the "overfuel" function was something different....is it just doing the same thing??

 

[Sherman Tank]

Yeah it has one of those, I also hold the pedal down halfway to start, but figured the "overfuel" function was something different....is it just doing the same thing??

Does anyone know if holding the "gas" pedal does the same thing as the overfuel position???

 

[jim land]

All you need for the OI is a small pivot near the IP , so you can use a cable instead of a rigid rod, when you pull the cable, the lever is pushing on the " over injection "
A carburator spring can be hooked to the lever to make the pull knub spring loaded