E series rigid led light bar (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 28, 2019
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Location
Billings mt
Hi from Montana I could use some helpful info on how to get wiring into engine bay threw firewall on 1987 fj 60 lc thanks see photos Tom

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Maybe you can sneak a set of wires through the windshield seal. Led lights don’t draw much amperage so they can often use very small wires. So if you are careful and seal them with silicon then you might snake them through te windshield gasket. Otherwise it’s along the body unless you want to drill holes in the roof 🤨
 
Hmmmm, I wouldn't mess with the windshield seal, unless you want it to leak. The question you asked was how to get thru the firewall. That's easy. There are two holes for wiring harness on either side of the firewall. Looks like your on the passenger side so go thru the one behind the windshield washer bottle. Just remove the washer bottle and you'll see it and get at it easy. You can use a stiff wire or coat hanger and push it thru, maybe remove the grommet first. Then from under the glove box you should feel it. Attach you wire with some tape to the coat hanger and pull it into the engine comp.
The bigger question is how do you get the wire inside the body of the vehicle from the roof. Might be easier to route the wire down the rain gutter and then under the cowl into the engine compartment.
 
@cruiserpilot posted this on another thread.
CAUTION on wiring under the windshield molding. I ran my dash cam wiring along the right hand side
never gave it a thought. So there I was, 300 miles in the middle of BC from no where when my windshield fell out. There was
some rough off roading, but it was a real challenge getting the window back in. I'm only posting this, every change can have repercussions. Something to think about. Might have to with not having lock strip, which I fixed the week I got home. But can't say for sure.


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I’d only consider trying to pass the windshield gasket if I were running like a 20 gage or smaller wire. You would have to be creative and back seal the area with silicon as leaking would be my prime worry.

you could put a battery pack up on the roof rack and a remote switch and eliminate all wires completely.
 
If you have a snorkel, it makes wiring a lot easier. I could easily run wiring down the a pillar and have it hidden with only a small amount of wiring visible.
 
@cruiserpilot posted this on another thread.
CAUTION on wiring under the windshield molding. I ran my dash cam wiring along the right hand side
never gave it a thought. So there I was, 300 miles in the middle of BC from no where when my windshield fell out. There was
some rough off roading, but it was a real challenge getting the window back in. I'm only posting this, every change can have repercussions. Something to think about. Might have to with not having lock strip, which I fixed the week I got home. But can't say for sure.


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Thanks for reminding me! That was a heck of a trip. LOL, that was two windshields ago. They just
do not last in the north. I did get a proper no lock strip gasket after that, and I do NOT tuck anything
behind that any more.
 
Thanks for the great information the back hatch may work I will move light bar to back station tower and into hatch and then under head liner to drivers side firewall opening need to check length of wire. Thanks again very helpful Tom
 
okay to get a wire down from there.
Inside pull off the brown trim that rings around the door way. Take off the clips on the headliner above the door near the A piller. You will need to make a hole inside or find a hole inside near the area you want the wire to come down. you will be drilling thru the roof from the inside. But buy a grommet for the wires on the roof. Run two wires inside. One positive one ground. You are fishing them down the a piller all the way to the kick plate.
You can ground the negative in the kick plate area. (left side)
I use a rod to fish wires.
If you use a heavier wire you can use it for solar etc. lIke a 12 gauge wire. Make a small connection box to connect the lights or other items into.
 
If you drill a hole in the roof and don’t know what boxed section you are in you wont be able to feed it lower. Thats why I suggest going inside first. You drill a hole or use an exisiting hole to see where you are going.
 
Thanks Brownbear for the info will look at that too mtav8or I changed position of the light bar it has wire on drivers side new photo

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Since those very bright Rigid LEDs spray light everywhere, the farther back you can get them on the roof, the better the lighting will be - getting it off the hood. The ideal position is so they don't light up the hood at all
 
This thread reminded me of all the variation in products out there for LED now. Can pay $150 for a 50" light bar or can pay $2000 for an LED light bar. I just got my dad a 12" bar for $60 from SuperbrightLED's.....I've got it mounted on his kubota but not wired yet so cannot comment on the performance. I have some older Rigid 4 led square lights that work good for put put speeds or short distance...and I have a pair of Baja designs lights that were $$$ but put out a lot of light on my woods bike.

Found this video:

 
Hi all, moved light bar to rear looks like I can go into hatch then under headliner to front left post into existing grommet to engine bay. Thanks to all for the help mtav8or
 
Hi to all led light bar done works great . Went from battery to driver’s side grommet then under carpet to back hatch to light bar. Thank s guys for all the ideas mtav8or

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