Dynamat alternative (1 Viewer)

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I like what this thread has turned into.

FYI, I'm not gonna use the Peel and Seal due to the asphalt fume factor.
 
Hmm, I'm dying to do this and waiting for the new motor to go into my 60 before I can do anything else in the LX. Question since we have the attention of both vendors, what about spraying Rhino Liner OVER either product?
 
If you want to use Peel and Seal, do it right... ONLY use it on the floor boards, AND cover it in roof coating with ceramic microsperes mixed in (same exact stuff that second skin sells as "spectrum" for BIG $$$$$). I've done this and can tell you that the roof coating must be elastomeric (contains acrylic polymers). Henry solarflex 287 sf is a great option. ~$70 at home depot for 5 gal. Tint-able in any color. The sound deadener industry is smoke and mirrors guys... hate to say it. Here's a link to the DIY spray on "spectrum").

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ceramic_insulation

Umm....except for the minor problem that Spectrum is not ceramic insulation.

Spectrum™ is a water based under coating designed to reduce sheet metal resonance and structure borne noise. It is a true visceolastic sound deadener that can make any vehicle quiet as a luxury car.

Now made with Cryogenically manipulated polymers and high temperature wax, Spectrum is the only product on the market of its kind!

Okay, that last bit sounds cheesy, but still not ceramic.

Thermal Insulation
Anything you place in front of the heat source will help reduce or slow down the heat. Spectrum will help reduce heat to a small degree but is not specifically designed to do so. Any heat reduction noticed from Spectrum is purely a side benefit, not an intended result.

If you are looking for a thermal insulation coating, check out our ceramic loaded polymer Firewall or one of our self adhesive insulation mats; Damplifier or Damplifier Pro.

You are probably referring to their Firewall, which is similar to Spectrum but does have ceramic in it.

Second Skin Firewall is our ceramic loaded insulation coating that is designed to keep your car cool and quiet. It reflects radiant heat and dissipates convectional heat while also killing structure borne noise and vibrations. Apply to the cars interior sheets metal to reduce internal temperatures by as much as 30% and block airborne sound waves.


And while Henry solarflex 287 sf sounds like great stuff to use on a roof there's a few minor problems with it. Such as that you're not supposed to store the stuff at over 120*. And the flash point is only 212*. And they have giant warnings about exterior use only.

While the stuff isn't nearly as bad as asphalt based products, the low temp rating of the stuff and the fact that it isn't designed to hold up against wear and tear means it's not something I'd put in my truck.

Either way, Spectrum is completely different than Henry Solarflex 287 SF. Firewall is closer in similarity...but still different.



Hmm, I'm dying to do this and waiting for the new motor to go into my 60 before I can do anything else in the LX. Question since we have the attention of both vendors, what about spraying Rhino Liner OVER either product?

I'm planning on going over Spectrum with Duplicolor bedliner. I see no reason why you couldn't do bedliner over any of the mats, you'd just want to make sure it was on thick enough that it couldn't peel off.
 
I read a lot of posts regarding this on several forums. The DynaMat product is superior for its intended purpose. This post summed it up best for me:

Home depot "dynamat" for real this time? - DIY Mobile Audio

I used DynaMat in my truck and I am very happy with it.
Dynamat - Smaller Pic.jpg
 
And while Henry solarflex 287 sf sounds like great stuff to use on a roof there's a few minor problems with it. Such as that you're not supposed to store the stuff at over 120*. And the flash point is only 212*. And they have giant warnings about exterior use only.

While the stuff isn't nearly as bad as asphalt based products, the low temp rating of the stuff and the fact that it isn't designed to hold up against wear and tear means it's not something I'd put in my truck.

Either way, Spectrum is completely different than Henry Solarflex 287 SF. Firewall is closer in similarity...but still different.





I'm planning on going over Spectrum with Duplicolor bedliner. I see no reason why you couldn't do bedliner over any of the mats, you'd just want to make sure it was on thick enough that it couldn't peel off.

Umm... why condescending?

Been in several vehicles of mine and friends'... no problems at all.

Oh and flashpoint is for liquids... this stuff is not a liquid when dry bud. And for storing it at <120 F... again that's in the liquid state.

On safety, its almost exactly the same as spectrum. Water based, acrylic polymers with thickening agent (calcium carbonate), and color (titanium). Its the same safety hazard wise as exterior latex paint... oooh scary!

I'll leave it at that... just trying to save people from wasting money on overpriced products you can DIY for much less with VERY similar results.

Second skin is good ish... just past the point of diminishing returns in my book (a very frugal book).

Cheers :beer:
 
I've always bought 50ft and 100ft rolls of Fatmat. It's very similar to Dynamat and works just as well in my opinion. And costs much less. I've used it on many of my vehicles in the past with great success.

fatmat, great deals on eBay Motors, Electronics on eBay!

If you're looking for a spray on material, Cascade Quiet Kote is one of the best one's I've found. I used it to spray the inside of the doorskins and the inside of the roof. We carry the Cascade Quiet Kote in spray cans, 1 gallon size, and 5 gallon size. They also have some other cool stuff that sprays on and acts as a heat shield and vibration dampener. Not sure if we have the Cascade stuff up on the website yet, if you are interested just drop me a line.
 
The only way your Second Skin melted is if you bought it 5 years ago or more (when it used to be asphalt)

We have not had a batch of product that contains asphalt in over 5 years now. We stopped making it once we realized how terrible it was. It melts at 180 degrees and is not crosslinked so it is not elastomeric which means it is not a good choice for damping vibarions. The foil is also too thin to do anything.
So the problem you have with the old asphalt version of Damplifier is the same problem most people will have that use Peel and Seal.
It has been done before, many time, and always ends up the same.
People find it. Say it is the same thing as Dynamat. Claim that a roof will get hotter than a car, and everytone jumps on it.
What you usually end up seeing is 1 year later everyone comes back with melted tar all over their car, in their winder gears, and on their head liner. P&S has a failure rate of about 80%.
The 20% that are lucky usually boast the loudest that it worked for them, so everyone else must be installing it wrong. Quite typicle and misinformed actually.

Little Joe
Send me an email, and I will look your order up and will replace your old material with brand new top of the line Damplifier, which, is designed for an automobile, not a roof.

Sorry for the troule..

ANT

Wow I haven't read this thread in an awfully long time! Many thanks for the generous offer ANT but IMHO sound-deadening the 80 requires either go all the way and do everything right, or just turn up the stereo. So I've kind of forgotten about even trying and got some new speakers.

Anyway, here's the deal. I made 2 orders in 2008 or 2009, I can't even remember now. I put the Damplifier on the floorboard from just behind the front row seats through to the cargo area, incl the wheel wells. I also put some on the inside of the quarterpanel sheetmetal in the cargo area. Then I put the stock carpet back over it.

The Damplifier "slid" for lack of a better term - both on the wheel wells and in the cargo area, on vertical and horizontal surfaces. It adhered very well, but between the adhesive and foil is where some of it shifted. I actually had to trim away some of the foil and the material just under it because it had separated from the adhesive layer.

My 80 is very typical, climate here in NC is not severe, and I can't attribute this to any severe conditions or odd uses.

I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying to quell the noise nor steer anyone away from Second Skin. I'd just suggest do the whole interior and do it right to get any appreciable gains.
 
But your company is called Cruiser Crap after all....no?

Just kidding...!!! I have purchased several of your items and they are of very good quality. Only thing I have not purchased so far is the mic holders which I will be purchasing shortly and the clear lenses for the ARB Bumpers. I am not sure why people want to change to a clear lens...does it have any performance advantage?


ANT, If that is the case, then I will double check with the wholesale firm I am purchasing my product thru and have some words with them. Being part of the IH8MUD community, I would never want to sell a crappy product to my fellow Ih8Mud members.

-Mark
 
But your company is called Cruiser Crap after all....no?

Just kidding...!!! I have purchased several of your items and they are of very good quality. Only thing I have not purchased so far is the mic holders which I will be purchasing shortly and the clear lenses for the ARB Bumpers. I am not sure why people want to change to a clear lens...does it have any performance advantage?

I think you are confusing him with Nakman. :doh:

(Clear lenses are for looks, to match the clear corners if you get those.)
 
Installed the quietcrap in a 67 Chevelle this past week, gonna be a sweet ride.....
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99 sq feet of raammat. I did the doors also but there not in the picture. The toughest parts was removing the factory stuff. The dry ice method worked quite well but it was still time consuming.
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Willy,

How much did you use?
 
Found this and thought you guys might enjoy the test.

Some of you have asked about Sound Destroyer mat being sold on eBay and frankly, spamming most of the car audio forums. It claims to be a butyl mat, available in several thicknesses. I've had some strange interactions with the guy selling it. First he basically demanded that I put it in Sound Deadener Showdown, then he couldn't seem to keep track of my address for more than 15 minutes - after giving it to him 3 times, I said screw it.

I asked him why his company, FatMat and R-Blox were all located in Corry, PA. He threatened to sue me if I revealed that bit of obvious public knowledge. He claimed to have no knowledge of the other two operations yet apparently owned a business that sold kits to turn a car's exhaust pipe into a flame thrower which he sold to the guy who owns R-Blox - if you can believe that. Next day he asked me to include his products in SDS. Truly odd.

Through all of this I have taken him at his word that the various versions of Sound Destroyer were butyl. One of his customers sent me a sample. Every test said asphalt.

I asked him about this via e-mail and he demanded that I prove it. He felt that what his manufacturer told him was sufficient QC and beyond that, it was up to me. I bumped a thread on another forum dealing with his products to let people know there were questions about the product. Once again, he demanded that I prove him wrong. Since this is his attitude and since I've given him every opportunity to come up with an explanation that makes any sense at all, here we go.

This is just one of the tests I did. He claims his products are stable at 260°F. Don't want to bore everybody with all of the details, but this is a photo of several mats after 15 minutes at 200°F.

sd_heat_comp_600.jpg

Left to right:
eDead v1SE²
RAAMmat BXT
Dynamat Xtreme
FatMat
Peel & Seal
R-Blox
Sound Destroyer
Grace Vycor
eDead v1²

The eDeads, RAAMmat and Dynamat Xtreme are butyl. FatMat, Peel & Seal, R-Blox and Grace Vycor are asphalt. Which goup does Sound Destroyer, 3rd from the right belong in?

By the way, I don't bother heat testing Second Skin Damplifier or Damplifier Pro, or Cascade VB-Max because all three have heat tolerances that exceed my ability to test. For all but the most extreme applications, 200°F is adequate. It also is a clear line that asphalt never crosses.
 
When putting this stuff on is it necessary to remove the factory sound deadening?
 
I would think it is not needed. But can help make things level. Those with OCD may desire it to be removed so everything looks proper.

But then again (speaking of proper), some of us use items found at a hardware store. It is amazing how much foil backed HVAC foam insulation will actually cut down on temps and noise.
 

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