Dynamat alternative (1 Viewer)

[CycloSteve]

It only took one year...QuietCrap

Well, not due to the product, just my waiting to finish my Subtank install...figured I would do this while the carpet was out in the rear of the truck.

Did from just behind the front seats all the way to the rear, plus the inner wheel wells. Took one roll...the only drawback is that I now REALLY want to do the front, as I can definitely tell that the product is doing its' job quite well.

It formed into all of the nooks and crannies easily, despite only being in the 40's, and I used a Wagner heat-gun on low setting to help mold things. No oder whatsoever. No tears, or other problems, as the stuff is pretty darn tough, and sticks reall well. I also used brake cleaner to prep, as that gets rid of just about any bothersome residue, and dries very quickly.

My only complaint was that I broke the provided plastic roller in about 10 minutes...bought a wooden roller at a local hardware store for $7, and it lasted the rest of the job, and is ready for much more torture.



Steve

 

[JScott]

Great info and thanks. Couple of questions that I hope haven't been covered in depth and I missed on the search.

1. The heat reduction benefit you receive, is it adequate enough, or have some of you found you need something more specific than your choice of sound deadening material? I would assume putting an extra layer in certain places is the common solution I have found on this forum.

2. I'm planning on reusing my carpet after a powerwash and etc but want to replace the padding(odor and 23 yrs of stuff). I have a large amount of house carpet padding that I could cut and tape to fit but wasn't sure if many of you would recommend automotive specific instead.

first post on this site. glad to be a part of the community.

84 fj 60 sold to pay for college
88 fj 62 just got back in the game

 

[JScott]

my .02 worth:

I chose to take up the factory sound deadener for my own piece of mind. I really wanted to see what the rust issue was in a thorough manner. Also there were a few spots that it was hard to get grease and grime off the factory deadener. I wanted it as clean as possible since I went to this much work already.

 

[CycloSteve]

Finally did the Doors

Well, took a while, but I finally have done the doors with QuietCrap.

Here is a tip on getting out the factory vapor-barrier...do when it is fairly cold, say below 50 degrees out. When cold the original bead of black butyl will stick to the plastic more than the painted door surface. Also, I used GooGone and then SimpleGreen to remove any remaining items black crud. For whatever reason the rears are much easier than the fronts in terms of stickiness and leftover residue.

You also may want to lube the roller-tracks for the windows while in there. Mine showed better up/down performance afterwards.

I also opted to seal-off my speakers with foam surrounds from Crutchfield...worth the $16 (all four door speakers)after seeing the water which goes on them from the not-so-sealed windows.

Definitely more quiet, and the doors shut with a more solid thud. Now the only remaining area to tackle in my rig is from the front seats to the firewall, which will be another weekend project.



Steve