duggy's build thread: 1998 Land Cruiser #SAS100
- Thread starter duggy
- Start date
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duggy
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #182
I got the driver side shock tower modified to fit the steering shaft that will run behind it. I fully boxed it in after I was finished with welding the c-channel in. This was welded onto the driver side along with frame side control arm mounts.
I finally got the front diff to show me a good pattern with good backlash and combined pinion/carrier preload. I would have to say that the front is a bit more finicky than the rear in terms of setting up the gears. I really respect Zuk and his meticulousness when setting up gears. There were many times where I would get frustrated and work on something else. The diff was painted and is ready to go into the front axle. Next steps are to assemble the outers and obtain some muscle to get it off of my bench
The rear axle was painted with POR15 and top-coated with Rustoleom gloss black since POR15 does not have UV protection. This is the final time I will be installing the rear axle. I still need to top the rear off with brake lines, track bar, and finish off the upper control arms. The rear axle being so clean makes the parts being bolted up to it look very dirty. I have to keep reminding myself that the axle is gonna get dirty anyways
The front also received the same paint treatment and is ready for assembling the outers.
I'm feeling good about the deadline and feeling even better about the project!
I finally got the front diff to show me a good pattern with good backlash and combined pinion/carrier preload. I would have to say that the front is a bit more finicky than the rear in terms of setting up the gears. I really respect Zuk and his meticulousness when setting up gears. There were many times where I would get frustrated and work on something else. The diff was painted and is ready to go into the front axle. Next steps are to assemble the outers and obtain some muscle to get it off of my bench
The rear axle was painted with POR15 and top-coated with Rustoleom gloss black since POR15 does not have UV protection. This is the final time I will be installing the rear axle. I still need to top the rear off with brake lines, track bar, and finish off the upper control arms. The rear axle being so clean makes the parts being bolted up to it look very dirty. I have to keep reminding myself that the axle is gonna get dirty anyways
The front also received the same paint treatment and is ready for assembling the outers.
I'm feeling good about the deadline and feeling even better about the project!
Coming along nicely.
Updates! I've been doing all of this maintenence in preparation for a wheeling trip which I just finished up this weekend.
The day before I was slated to meet up with the group to roll-out, my truck would not start. It would crank and crank and crank but no turnover. I was pretty bummed and started doing some searching along with starting a thread. It turned out to to be the crank position sensor that was chafed due to the 90k service.
I welded together a simple tab setup for my CB antenna and also welded on a light tab from Gamiviti for a camping light which works awesome for night cooking!
I picked up a 32" lightbar locally which fits perfectly in between the ARB bars. I may re-do the mount with some security bolts to make sure some sticky fingers don't get a hold of it.
I installed my tank for my OBA setup under the truck. The cheapo PVC line I used will not hold up to the heat in the engine bay and along the frame so I'll have to look for another
I disliked the orange in the tail lights so I opted to paint the tails before dropping $200 for a new set. I'll stick with this for a while.
Pics make it look frosted, but it actually looks really good.
Updated pics of the truck from the trip! The workaround I did for the CPS worked well and I had no issues all weekend.
Not much more planned on the plate until my BIOR rear bumper comes in. I'm having Mike create a few changes. I may have to level out the stance of the truck after it's installed.
Nice Build! Can you post a picture of your rear lights installed after the red was applied? Thanks
duggy
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #188
Lately I have been dealing with acquiring parts for the 80 axles. I knew I had non-ABS HDJ80 axles but I did not realize how different they could be from FZJ80 axles. It turns out that the front brakes deviate from the FZJ and have a smaller rotor size. I know earlier I compared the 100 series caliper and the HDJ80 caliper to be the same size, but I compared them again and it looks like the 100 series is much larger. The good news is that the 100 series rotor bolts up perfectly to the FZJ80 knuckle I purchased. I don't know of a reason not to run this but if anybody has any insights, please let me know.
The rear is a different story. I am using FZJ80 brake components except for the e-brake shoes which come off of a non-ABS axle. The shoes are a smaller diameter than the FZJ80 shoes. I could either frankenstein the axle together by converting the backing plates to FZJ80 backing plates but they are nowhere to be found for under $450/pc! I ordered HDJ80 shoes from @beno who should have them here in 1-1.5 weeks.
The front axle is all assembled and placed under the vehicle for final assembly. It looks like the 1.5" drive shaft spacer I purchased will work perfectly. The next steps are to make custom brake lines on the axle side for front/rear and connect them to the body side. I need to wrap my head around how to work around the issue of the 100 series having a passenger and driver side brake drop. Since converting to solid axle, you want the drop from the body to the axle to be as centered in the axle as possible so you do not run out of brake line when flexing the axle. I also have to figure out the wiring for the front locker.
3-4 weeks is my timeline to finish! The remaining things are the little items that need to be checked off. Somebody told me the last 25% of your project will take 75% of your time. I hope to fast track this 100SAS to the finish line. Pictures to come when I am near a computer
The rear is a different story. I am using FZJ80 brake components except for the e-brake shoes which come off of a non-ABS axle. The shoes are a smaller diameter than the FZJ80 shoes. I could either frankenstein the axle together by converting the backing plates to FZJ80 backing plates but they are nowhere to be found for under $450/pc! I ordered HDJ80 shoes from @beno who should have them here in 1-1.5 weeks.
The front axle is all assembled and placed under the vehicle for final assembly. It looks like the 1.5" drive shaft spacer I purchased will work perfectly. The next steps are to make custom brake lines on the axle side for front/rear and connect them to the body side. I need to wrap my head around how to work around the issue of the 100 series having a passenger and driver side brake drop. Since converting to solid axle, you want the drop from the body to the axle to be as centered in the axle as possible so you do not run out of brake line when flexing the axle. I also have to figure out the wiring for the front locker.
3-4 weeks is my timeline to finish! The remaining things are the little items that need to be checked off. Somebody told me the last 25% of your project will take 75% of your time. I hope to fast track this 100SAS to the finish line. Pictures to come when I am near a computer
duggy
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #190
I started to investigate on why my front e-locker would not pass the 9-volt test so I opened it up and found that 2 of the magnets had come loose. I took them out and JB Welded them back in their corresponding positions. In opening the locker actuator, I was pleasantly surprised that it still looked almost pristine inside for being 23 years old and for the axles being in the condition they were when I got them. Toyota quality.
duggy
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- Thread starter
- #192
I also started working on reaming out the pitman and steering arms so they can accept GM 1-ton tie rod ends. I practiced on a spare steering arm I had and let me tell you, it's really easy to mess up on this. You have to keep it completely straight or else you will ream it crooked. I took the approach of constantly stopping to check to see if the taper was enough to accept the TRE. As I am an impatient hole driller, as evidence shows in my numerous dull drill bits. This job will test your patience as it takes a lot of it to be straight. The drill bit will tell you that it's not happy with your speed or angle by chucking the drill into the side of your stomach. PATIENCE.
Annnnnnnnnd it's crooked. Good thing I decided to test it first.
Annnnnnnnnd it's crooked. Good thing I decided to test it first.
duggy
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- Thread starter
- #193
I mounted up the steering box with a c-clamp and started to measure the Ruff Stuff Y-Link steering kit. They supply you with tons of DOM tubing for the job so it's much more than you need. 2 cuts and 2 tack welds will give you enough to mock everything up to make sure you didn't screw anything up
After everything was bolted up, I made sure that all of my clearances were right at full lock in both directions. Everything looks perfect except for adjusting the steering stops out a little bit.
After everything was bolted up, I made sure that all of my clearances were right at full lock in both directions. Everything looks perfect except for adjusting the steering stops out a little bit.
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Soooo if I were to drop my cruiser off at your house do you think you would be up for a second SAS
duggy
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #195
Haha. I'm getting married this year and am already pushing my luck working so much in the garage. If I took on another SAS this year she would probably castrate me
One saving grace is that we are planning to take engagement photos in Colorado while attending HIH so I have an out. I at least must finish before HIH
One saving grace is that we are planning to take engagement photos in Colorado while attending HIH so I have an out. I at least must finish before HIH
duggy
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- Thread starter
- #196
I finished up the front axle and brakes. I used a mix of FZJ80 rotors and 100 series calipers with Hawk HPS blue 100 series pads. This combo should net me some great braking. The issue with using 80 rotors and 100 calipers is that the outboard side of the 100 caliper is close to making contact with the rotor where it passes through. About 5 minutes of grinding that side off gives you plenty of clearance to use the larger calipers.
You can see on the bottom right that it's very close to touching. The caliper looks ridiculously dirty in this picture but was cleaned up and painted afterwards.
View attachment 1242943
You can see on the bottom right that it's very close to touching. The caliper looks ridiculously dirty in this picture but was cleaned up and painted afterwards.
View attachment 1242943
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Clever trick! I'm really enjoying your build and appreciate you sharing it.
Making it really hard to stay focused on my 80! I keep looking at my wife's 04 in the driveway and the rolled 97 I picked up for parts.
