duggy's build thread: 1998 Land Cruiser #SAS100

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I think there comes a time in every major project that you get a little bit discouraged because you run into a road block. Setting up the gears were something I really tried to understand after numerous visits to Zuk's site and really trying to grasp everything he explains. I got discouraged because I didn't fully understand how pinion depth and carrier preload all really worked until I really dove in did the work to understand it. I started to get overwhelmed when I thought about all of the other work I had to do and the timeline that I'm against. There are similarities to "writers block" when working on something this big but the tipping point of all of this was when I actually got decent gear patterns on my second tried which pushed me over the "writers block" edge.

With a *win* in my pocket for partially understanding the gear setup, I made a little 3rd member jig today out of some scrap metal found in my garage and some rectangle tube I picked up at the metal shop. It will make working on the 3rd member(s) much easier. I attach the flat bar to the 3rd member and then c-clamp it to the rectangle tube for a very sturdy work space.

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I started making upper control arms for the rear axle. It turns out that the OPOR lower control arms for the 100 series not only bolt up perfectly but also move the axle forward 2 inches which is needed if I am to fit 37s on here. The UCAs are made out of 1.75 OD .250 DOM. That much beef is not needed for UCAs but I got a great deal out of them so why the heck not.

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This is awesome, thanks for the updates.
 
The last project of the night was to make a template out of cardboard for the scab plates which will go on the frame. I cut a piece of cardboard to size, traced along the backside with a marker and cut as needed to get a general shape of what I need. I can adjust the size and shape of it with grinding if I have to. The scab plate will be cut from 1/8" plate.

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One last picture of the monsterous bushings that will be the lower control arm bushings for the front. These things are HUGE. Here is a picture compared to a can of Miller Water :flipoff2:

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Great progress so far! I do have one question that I've never really fully understood: What is the point of the scab plate? Is it to add another surface to mount brackets to or is it just for structural integrity of the frame? Can't wait to see you wrap this project up and see the finished product!
 
It is to strengthen the frame. 100s are fully boxed frame so they don't need it as much as Tacomas or pickup trucks do. I am matching the passenger side with a scab plate for consistency but the driver side definitely needs it since the 80 series steering gear box will be mounted to the frame and need extra support for the torsional forces it will see.
 
Awesome quick progress and fantastic documentation! Best of luck keeping your pace and hopefully a successful finish well before your deadline. Maybe someday I'll get to do the same once the wife is done with our Hundy/her DD ;)
 
FYI, they are generally called fish plates not scab plates. And, you don't want no vertical welds on those, that can cause the frame to be-get compromise(d).

You want the fish plates more like this....notice I also use weld through primer. ;)

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Just google "fish plate" to get more info than you will ever need on the what and why of it all.

Cheers
 
@RMP&O Am I seeing un-welded fish plates in you picture? After looking at a couple of online articles of fish plating it seems like fish plates connect two unattached pieces (like two sections of railway). It also looks like most fish plates are attached by bolts. I'm asking questions and just regurgitating what I think I'm seeing. Please explain.

Also what is the benefit of wedding through primer?
 
The front is probably ok since it terminates at the body mount, but I would angle the rear cut. Vertices lines on scab plates create a stress riser where the stiffer reinforced section of the frame meets the unreinforced section. Angling the cut spreads out the riser by lengthening it and also puts the riser in a different place on the top and bottom of the frame rail.
 
I think this is a non-concern as the bracketry on the stock IFS supports have multiple vertical welds from which I cut off. The brackets wrap around the frame and they are welded on. Off the top of my head, I can count 4 vertical welds in about a 12" area.
 
Hey do whatever you like, it is your truck. I seen plenty of welds crack though as well as other issues.

If you want to know some more, #10 post in this link does a pretty good job of summing it up.

Fish plates.... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Lot's of pictures on google that are better than mine....

fish plates welding - Google Search

I don't see why you would not take a little more time to do it right and you say you are learning, I provide info and knowledge to help you learn and you don't care!? No offense man but that does make a guy who has knowledge to share with ya not want to share it.

Cheers
 
Hey do whatever you like, it is your truck. I seen plenty of welds crack though as well as other issues.

If you want to know some more, #10 post in this link does a pretty good job of summing it up.

Fish plates.... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Lot's of pictures on google that are better than mine....

fish plates welding - Google Search

I don't see why you would not take a little more time to do it right and you say you are learning, I provide info and knowledge to help you learn and you don't care!? No offense man but that does make a guy who has knowledge to share with ya not want to share it.

Cheers

Dad?
 
Hey do whatever you like, it is your truck. I seen plenty of welds crack though as well as other issues.

If you want to know some more, #10 post in this link does a pretty good job of summing it up.

Fish plates.... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Lot's of pictures on google that are better than mine....

fish plates welding - Google Search

I don't see why you would not take a little more time to do it right and you say you are learning, I provide info and knowledge to help you learn and you don't care!? No offense man but that does make a guy who has knowledge to share with ya not want to share it.

Cheers

To be honest I never did ask you for your opinion. I'll leave it at that.
 
Spent the weekend finalizing my rear diff with a great pattern that I'm really happy with. Backlash is right on point at .007 - .009 range. I tested out the e-locker motor with a 9V battery and it moved in and out fine so there is good news there.

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The front diff is a different story :mad:

My first issue is that I don't get any signs of life from the front e-locker motor with the 9v battery. I will have to tear into it to see what is up. Also, the front uses adjuster wheels to adjust backlash and carrier pre-load which is generally a good thing because you don't have to mess with shims. The only question I have is how the hell do I adjust the wheel for the backlash adjustment? I built a tool for the smaller adjuster which works really well but the larger adjuster wheel side has these slots that are curved and do not go all the way through which makes it hard to grip with any tool. If anybody has insight on this, let me know.

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I also got one of the shock towers welded in and cut lower control arms. It looks like I will be going with the Ballistic Fab bushings on both the frame and axle ends. I am sending some back today to switch out for a left handed thread.

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This is final mock-up of everything. on the passenger side. It's a bit easier since I don't have to deal with the power steering gear box. I still need to get a driveshaft spacer, do some final welding on the axle and paint that bad boy. I am past the half way mark of finishing this guy.
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