Builds DRANGED's GX470 build/ownership thread (9 Viewers)
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- #222
Did you sleeve your top bolt, or just bolt through per Trail Tailor instructions...?
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- #223
Treaty Oak Off Road recovery points for 120 series (GX470). I think I may have noticed this when ordering, but ignored it with eager, impulsive haste in ordering 
"Due to a design change for 2006-09 model years, it will be necessary to remove the factory tie down points for use with a hard shackle."
Trail Taylor indicates similar mods to factory loop are needed for 06+.
My GX is '07 Sport.
so... despite much care and attention to detail, in the final coats of paint to dress the adhesion from resting on fresh paint, which was also probably applied to thickly on too cold of steel in 40 degree weather (sub-optimal conditions. . . .)
I got the runs. lol!
typical!
But whatever, it lives under the rig..
So I installed them last night.
I followed trail tailor's step-by-step installation instructions. They're simple and easy to follow. Basically loosen radiator to swing it back, loosen fender liner clip to give drilling access for opening up top, in-board hole. Take care to not puncture radiator then bolt it all together. I dressed the new drilling with Q-tip-coated paint and everything mounted up easily. As I was doing this I thought, "hmm, sleeving the top hole would be best so as to not crush the top box" but I also just wanted them mounted. No torque specs were given anywhere so it's easy to crush unsupported boxes when tightening. . .
So. they're mounted, if i did it again, I'd spend more time and sleeve the top hole for added strength of the box. I'd thought about drilling out and plug-welding some rod too as I don't have, on-hand, a bit large enough, or tube appropriate for sleeving the bolts of the size used for mounting these bits.
AND so, turns out... factory loops interfere with shackle fitment in the recovery point. BUMMER!
So I'll need to grind them off, or see if I can shave down the inboard sides. I might weld a plate to the stubs for strength vs grinding flat... options/decisions. . . . But none of it is emergent.
"Due to a design change for 2006-09 model years, it will be necessary to remove the factory tie down points for use with a hard shackle."
Trail Taylor indicates similar mods to factory loop are needed for 06+.
My GX is '07 Sport.
so... despite much care and attention to detail, in the final coats of paint to dress the adhesion from resting on fresh paint, which was also probably applied to thickly on too cold of steel in 40 degree weather (sub-optimal conditions. . . .)
I got the runs. lol!
typical!
But whatever, it lives under the rig..
So I installed them last night.
I followed trail tailor's step-by-step installation instructions. They're simple and easy to follow. Basically loosen radiator to swing it back, loosen fender liner clip to give drilling access for opening up top, in-board hole. Take care to not puncture radiator then bolt it all together. I dressed the new drilling with Q-tip-coated paint and everything mounted up easily. As I was doing this I thought, "hmm, sleeving the top hole would be best so as to not crush the top box" but I also just wanted them mounted. No torque specs were given anywhere so it's easy to crush unsupported boxes when tightening. . .
So. they're mounted, if i did it again, I'd spend more time and sleeve the top hole for added strength of the box. I'd thought about drilling out and plug-welding some rod too as I don't have, on-hand, a bit large enough, or tube appropriate for sleeving the bolts of the size used for mounting these bits.
AND so, turns out... factory loops interfere with shackle fitment in the recovery point. BUMMER!
So I'll need to grind them off, or see if I can shave down the inboard sides. I might weld a plate to the stubs for strength vs grinding flat... options/decisions. . . . But none of it is emergent.
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- #224
When comparing, visually, Treaty Oak's to Trail Taylor's, it looks like the TO's recovery loop may be like 0.25" lower than the TT ones. Note lower mounting hole to the top of the recovery hole .. To looks about on the same line, whereas the TT looks like a little overlap on that line... I'll PS it in a bit to illustrate my point...
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No sleeve, although that sounds like a good idea.
Nice install, and good luck with trimming the stock points!
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- #226
Or maybe I just cough up for soft shackles.
:-D
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- #227
noob PS, but this should illustrate my hypothesis that these two products are cut slightly differently RE: shackle hole with respect to mounting hole(s), potentially slightly different linear force application as well...
I actually just removed my Trail Tailor points and replaced them with the Apex Overland points and can confirm that the TT points do not interfere with my '09's stock loops. FYI, I took out the TT points because the bolt head was touching with my ebay aluminum radiator no matter what I did- it may have been fine but I didn't like the idea of it rubbing together.
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- #229
Copy that. Still have your TT points?
Right, the Al radiator. I recall reading that a bit ago. Seems like a good investment to protect from galvonic or electrolytic or whatever that Al-steel contact reaction is.
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Oops- I don't go online much on weekends but, yes, I still have them.
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- #231
Bro-in-law is in circles where they get Amazon returns pallets. So, I get stuff hand-me-downed/alonged
So, since free... I'll give some low-beam LEDs a test trial... Not a fan of the 6,000 heat color but for free I'll try them
Although, after a quick test, I may go for these instead. Higher quality diode, thicker Al construction and integrated cooling fan vs radiating fins.
thoughts, experiences, opinions, informations on LED headlight bulb mods??
So, since free... I'll give some low-beam LEDs a test trial... Not a fan of the 6,000 heat color but for free I'll try them
Although, after a quick test, I may go for these instead. Higher quality diode, thicker Al construction and integrated cooling fan vs radiating fins.
thoughts, experiences, opinions, informations on LED headlight bulb mods??
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- Thread starter
- #232
Left the GX for Timing belt while on vacation.
Timing belt, water pump, idlers and pulleys, trans drain and refill, re-clamped (aftermarket again as a reboot would've been $400 all told) driver inner cv (aftermarket sux, so I'll just keep an eye on it), i suspected passenger lower ball joint boot was split, but tech said just weeping, so not needing replacement, and they couldn't isolate the clunking i'm hearing. I suspect KDSS FSB bushings (possibly rear again b/c I use the rig off-road whereas PO didn't, and oversize spare leaves LITTLE clearance for a mobile RSB), but I'll continue to monitor...
all told (doh, he needs to credit me 1-0% discount that i brought in...) $1313ish.
Oh, and they left this with me.
Timing belt, water pump, idlers and pulleys, trans drain and refill, re-clamped (aftermarket again as a reboot would've been $400 all told) driver inner cv (aftermarket sux, so I'll just keep an eye on it), i suspected passenger lower ball joint boot was split, but tech said just weeping, so not needing replacement, and they couldn't isolate the clunking i'm hearing. I suspect KDSS FSB bushings (possibly rear again b/c I use the rig off-road whereas PO didn't, and oversize spare leaves LITTLE clearance for a mobile RSB), but I'll continue to monitor...
all told (doh, he needs to credit me 1-0% discount that i brought in...) $1313ish.
Oh, and they left this with me.
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- Thread starter
- #233
Random from before, but I want to document.
I'd picked up a German(?) water jerry at a Mil Surplus shop in Provo, UT for $40. Turned out to have a hole but I repaired the hole with 4 layers of shoe goo. It's held on 2 trips thusfar. I think it'll be fine for water but not legit for a fuel can hole repair.
I'd picked up a German(?) water jerry at a Mil Surplus shop in Provo, UT for $40. Turned out to have a hole but I repaired the hole with 4 layers of shoe goo. It's held on 2 trips thusfar. I think it'll be fine for water but not legit for a fuel can hole repair.
After watching this video, I’m worried about the strength of the area that these recovery points mount to....
Are the apex ones any safer?
https://www.apexoverland.com/shop-by-brand/Front-Recovery-Points-p111923535
Are the apex ones any safer?
https://www.apexoverland.com/shop-by-brand/Front-Recovery-Points-p111923535
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I use my winch
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- #236
Eek! I've heard how the tie-downs fail but not in THAT way. That's terrifying and horribly unfortunate!
The ARB 150s seem like the apex ones, 3 points of contact over a larger area.
*gulp*
I really don't see myself yanking on my rig in that way....body-deep in southern mud or high-centered over a dune...
good but terrifying find @HomersCanyonero
I found this recovery point issue discussed in ih8mud in this thread: DIY hidden winch mount ideas
So, I didn’t find the video on my own. Got it from that thread
So, I didn’t find the video on my own. Got it from that thread
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There has to be something else going on in that video.
I find it hard to believe the frame just sheared off leaving basically just straight cuts on two sections of steel tube.
Maybe the vehicle had previous damage and that was the result of a poor repair job.
Either way, that's a lot of carnage!
I find it hard to believe the frame just sheared off leaving basically just straight cuts on two sections of steel tube.
Maybe the vehicle had previous damage and that was the result of a poor repair job.
Either way, that's a lot of carnage!
I was expecting the stock tie down loops to break or detach, but the whole cross section?
So, adding recovery points to that same area where the tie downs are located just doesn’t seem like a safe solution.
Moreover, the stock tie down loops seem to be super strong! They are not the weak point at least from that video.
I’m just thinking outloud, but recovery points need to attach to the frame. Or maybe I’ll need to jump on that SSO hidden winch tray group buy.
So, adding recovery points to that same area where the tie downs are located just doesn’t seem like a safe solution.
Moreover, the stock tie down loops seem to be super strong! They are not the weak point at least from that video.
I’m just thinking outloud, but recovery points need to attach to the frame. Or maybe I’ll need to jump on that SSO hidden winch tray group buy.
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- #240
Copy that... I was pretty sure i could find tie-down loop failure pix and videos. I've sourced one months ago but it's surprisinglyy (maybe erroneously surprisingly, ergo maybe they're tougher than I think) not easy to find tow loop vailure pix/videos. There are plenty on the tubes of cars getting stripped and detached, and i've been having this conversation with a friend who has a 5th gen 4r, that these tie down/tow points aren't adequate for recovery. Maybe they are plenty strong, esp like that and mine (not sure of pre-06), where the loop goes through the box and is welded into the back of the box, versus others where the loop is surface welded top the bottom of the box) and I'm the one duped by the anecdote and marketing...
The apex and ARB 150s look good because they tie to a larger area cross different parts of the frame, and I agree that corner of the frame looks uspiciously funny how it circumferentially failed in the same way across both boxed frame sections...
Circumferential box failure in that way seems very, VERY suspect.
