DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)

[feddomw]

I've seen this subject come up in this thread and many others as well. Would someone care to chime in why I don't have these on my 100? I have a Middle East spec 100, am I short a heating unit somewhere (hence no need for T's?).

Just to be clear: I do have a heating system.

 

[camino70]

Just started this project today, it sucks. My old hoses where caked on and even cutting them off was a challenge and I stupidly didn't use the soap and water trick. Did one tee, tomorrow I will do the other (with soap and water). I will note I lost more than a cup of coolant as mentioned in this thread. It lost maybe 2 cups? Enough to where I just removed my plastic "skid" plate to clean it all up. My coolant level wasn't too high to start with either.

One question... When tugging on the hose I moved this bracket for the two lines. Can someone look at theirs and tell me if it goes in front of or behind that rubber grommet? I'm assuming behind. Thanks!

Bolt on firewall

• camino70
• May 23, 2016

 

[GregLCA]

I've seen this subject come up in this thread and many others as well. Would someone care to chime in why I don't have these on my 100? I have a Middle East spec 100, am I short a heating unit somewhere (hence no need for T's?).

Just to be clear: I do have a heating system.

The "T" splits the heater lines so that they can go to the 3rd row heater controls... I'm guessing you don't have a read heat / cooling system?

-G

 

[feddomw]

The "T" splits the heater lines so that they can go to the 3rd row heater controls... I'm guessing you don't have a read heat / cooling system?

-G

Cooling yes, I have rear A/C.

 

[hkeller]

Do you have rear heat? The T's split the heater lines to provide for front and rear heat.

 

[feddomw]

Do you have rear heat? The T's split the heater lines to provide for front and rear heat.

See above.
Footnote: As it seems all US 100's have the T's, that would indicate all US 100's have rear heating?
Interesting.

 

[guardcompany]

Bolt on firewall

• camino70
• May 23, 2016

Thanks!

 

[guardcompany]

Quick stupid question I couldn't find on here... The red line/mark on the new hoses do those mean something? From looking around at other people's photos it seems those mark the outside and not the tee side?

 

[bctlex]

Just started this project today, it sucks. My old hoses where caked on and even cutting them off was a challenge and I stupidly didn't use the soap and water trick. Did one tee, tomorrow I will do the other (with soap and water). I will note I lost more than a cup of coolant as mentioned in this thread. It lost maybe 2 cups? Enough to where I just removed my plastic "skid" plate to clean it all up. My coolant level wasn't too high to start with either.

A sharp serrate knife will make cutting the hoses easier.

 

[guardcompany]

Quick stupid question I couldn't find on here... The red line/mark on the new hoses do those mean something? From looking around at other people's photos it seems those mark the outside and not the tee side?

Found my answer: The marks are for facing away from the tee, so they are for the side of the hose that goes over the coolant system metal pipe, not the side of the hose that goes on the plastic tee. FYI

 

[Superflo]

Changed out my T's with OEM replacements this weekend on my 98 at 110k miles. Not a hard job but not exactly easy. A mini channel lock plier was my savior as it let me get to the tabs on the clips at some very awkward angles. I would recommend this tool to anyone doing the job. The cooler side T looked brand new and the hotter side T looked pretty good as well with only slight discoloration/deterioration in a few spots. Glad I only have to do this every 100k haha.

 

[El Cid]

Did mine recently, thanks to PaFlyTyer for the detail. Very helpful.

I'd say this is worse for those of us in hotter climates. So if you live below the Mason-Dixon, do this early. I was at 170k, which is too long but both crumbled at the ends when I removed the t. They look fine, but I would add this to the 90k service for those in the sunbelt states.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Just another plug not to let these slide. Local classifieds:

 

[Ramathorn15]

How many miles did it have before it blew?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I replaced mine recently and one of the tees literally crumbled at the ends when I removed it. It was a relatively easy job. and made for a great excuse to switch the coolant to a known type (Toyota Red, in my case).

 

[pbreisch]

My truck is a 2006 LC with 141K on it. New to me but carfax says it lived in Indiana.

SO i just started this job today and I am halfway through it. I ordered the brass T's from @cruiseroutfit and they don't seem to fit. The 3 legs of the 'T' are all the same size. I can't imagine squeezing the smaller hose onto that 'T'. Anyone run into this? I ordered the OEM T's from my local Toyota dealer and I won't have them till Monday. Of course one my T's disintegrated as soon as I pulled it off. Frustrated

EDIT:

So I read some more and saw people making this work. I went out to the garage and really shoved the s*** out of those nice new hoses and got them to fit on the brass fittings. The OEM clamps will not work on the small hoses, and they barely fit on the larger. I replaced the small side with stainless worm drive clamps and will keep an eye on the top clamps.

In hindsight I probably would have gone with OEM T's over the brass. Your mileage may vary.

Old:

T's:

New hose squeezed onto Brass T:

 

[guardcompany]

SO i just started this job today and I am halfway through it. I ordered the brass T's from @cruiseroutfit and they don't seem to fit. The 3 legs of the 'T' are all the same size. I can't imagine squeezing the smaller hose onto that 'T'. Anyone run into this? I ordered the OEM T's from my local Toyota dealer and I won't have them till Monday. Of course one my T's disintegrated as soon as I pulled it off. Frustrated

EDIT:

So I read some more and saw people making this work. I went out to the garage and really shoved the s*** out of those nice new hoses and got them to fit on the brass fittings. The OEM clamps will not work on the small hoses, and they barely fit on the larger. I replaced the small side with stainless worm drive clamps and will keep an eye on the top clamps.

In hindsight I probably would have gone with OEM T's over the brass. Your mileage may vary.

I was in the same boat. After test fitting one brass T, I ended up just getting OEM T's and I have a pair a brass ones if anyone wants a set for cheap.

 

[Manhattan]

Had mine done yesterday at ACC Garage. My 100 has 114,000 miles. One of the Ts crumbled during removal

 

[trainrech]

Done - 2000 with 133k. They didn't crumble when I took them out, but didn't take much to break apart by hand upon inspection. The cable-style hose clamp pliers (borrowed) and a pair of needle nose vice-grips made it simple. Thanks for the advice throughout this thread.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

My truck is a 2006 LC with 141K on it. New to me but carfax says it lived in Indiana.

SO i just started this job today and I am halfway through it. I ordered the brass T's from @cruiseroutfit and they don't seem to fit. The 3 legs of the 'T' are all the same size. I can't imagine squeezing the smaller hose onto that 'T'. Anyone run into this? I ordered the OEM T's from my local Toyota dealer and I won't have them till Monday. Of course one my T's disintegrated as soon as I pulled it off. Frustrated

EDIT:

So I read some more and saw people making this work. I went out to the garage and really shoved the s*** out of those nice new hoses and got them to fit on the brass fittings. The OEM clamps will not work on the small hoses, and they barely fit on the larger. I replaced the small side with stainless worm drive clamps and will keep an eye on the top clamps.

In hindsight I probably would have gone with OEM T's over the brass. Your mileage may vary.

Old:

T's:

New hose squeezed onto Brass T:

I was in the same boat. After test fitting one brass T, I ended up just getting OEM T's and I have a pair a brass ones if anyone wants a set for cheap.

I agree the brass configuration is not the proper way to go if you want to avoid factory set up.
The correct configuration is available from 4 Season, 2 - 5/8" 1 - 1/2"