Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

[scottryana]

The trucks can be in closed loop and in boost since the computer was never meant to see boost. Open loop is based off of TPS, RPM, and load. Those things can still be in closed loop requirements and you can see small amounts of boost. Like lilevo said 1-5psi in closed loop.

 

[lilevo]

If you are part throttle, low rpm, between 1-whatever psi that is closed loop and the truck is trying to be at 14.7.

 

[NKP Garage]

Do a quick google search for aem fic closed loop. You will fins many writeups and tips regarding the topic. Most of them will suggest the same thing, to remove fuel using the o2 map and remove fuel.in the fuel map at the same points as well. This should help avoid the ecu auto correcting with fuel trim adjustments.

 

[scottryana]

I think you mean add fuel. You don't want to remove fuel from closed loop when it is already trying to maintain 14.7. But yeah, change the voltage modifier, or create the voltage to afr table and input the voltage and adjust the fuel table STFT's the amount that is required to get to that AFR.

 

[NKP Garage]

I think you mean add fuel. You don't want to remove fuel from closed loop when it is already trying to maintain 14.7. But yeah, change the voltage modifier, or create the voltage to afr table and input the voltage and adjust the fuel table STFT's the amount that is required to get to that AFR.

Yes, sort of.

Some good reads on FIC tuning in various places:

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=21719.0
http://roadraceengineering.com/4g/tech/FICtuningtips.pdf
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=19962.0
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=23625.0

 

[lilevo]

Just a little update, truck is still running great. I plan on taking it to the track soon to get you guys some 1/4 mile numbers.

I just got back from an event in Ohio while towing my trailer and car (4200lbs). I got 12.3 mpg which beat my MPG last year while towing. I believe it was around 10mpg while non turbo.

I haven't driven the truck enough consistently without towing so I don't have any MPG numbers for that.

 

[Buckru]

Would you mind giving some towing impressions post turbo as compared to before? I know it was tough before but it helps with perspective.

Thanks Buck

 

[lilevo]

I guess it's all about what turbo you pick.

Mine has full / peak power and boost between 3000-3500. If you go with a GT35R sized turbo like I did, don't expect the truck to act like a diesel when towing or pulling stuff.

I didn't put the turbo on with towing in mind though. My truck is more like a Supra than a diesel truck although everyone says it sounds like a cummins.

The power band is more for racing and power on the street. I would have probably put a smaller turbo on the truck to drop the full boost and power down to around 2200-2500rpm or so if I was just concerned about towing because that's the sweet spot when on the highway.

On the freeway at 65 I am cruising at around 2200RPM. If I give it gas, I am in overdrive or 3rd gear at a very low RPM. Even with a piggyback, the computer doesn't like that and will usually be too rich at that RPM since there is not much turbo power down that low. It also doesn't make sense to downshift to second and bring the RPM's way up.

What has worked best for me is just to ease into it, part throttle, and make 3-4psi or so and just hold it until I speed up to where I wanna be.

However, pulling from a stop, toll booth, etc is night and day from before. I usually drop it down to L and hammer it from a stop. It pulls 4200lbs pretty hard and fast up to about 45mph or so in 2nd.

Then it gets weird again because it shifts to third and then you're in that RPM limbo where a diesel would excel.

But all in all, no problems on the 800 mile round trip journey and it performed much better and got better gas mileage than I ever did non turbo. My powerband is just much higher than a diesel that's more suited for towing with all the power down low and no power up top.

 

[Buckru]

I really appreciate your feedback as I'm in the planning stages of forced induction.

Thanks again,

Buck

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Lilevo,


When you installed the new maf sensor and housing for the injector upgrade, did you resort the pins in the MAF connector?

I'm in the process of installing my denso yellow injectors and maf as well and just popped a PO110 which appears to be related to the connector setup.

Thanks

 

[lilevo]

You need to follow landtanks pdf

 

[aviator31]

I'm set up similar to LilEvo, but I haven't decided on a piggyback controller yet. Is the AEM F/IC-8 the way to go or should I look at the another option. Also I notice EMS has the wiring harness for the AEM, is it pretty much plug and play beyond the tuning aspect?

 

[scottryana]

The AEM harness EMS sells is plug and play unless you have additional sensors like a proper IAT sensor post intercooler.

I don't think anyone else knows what way is the decisive way to go. It is all still fairly new and people are trying to hash out the best method. If you are staying close to lilevo's setup with a MAF matched closely to the injector size and not making huge changes than yes the AEM works well if you are making large changes, with injectors, or MAF housing size or don't want to run a MAF at all because of the blow off valve issues then no the AEM is not the way to go.

 

[Robb235]

I know this thread hasn't been active for close to a year now, however I have a question about resizing the MAF and the fuel injectors.

A discussion came up on another forum about whether this same principle could be used on the 5vz-fe (3.4L V6 found in 3rd gen 4Runners, and 1st gen Tacomas). Another member stated that by fooling the ECU in this manner, that the ECU would interpret less air metered by the MAF as being a lower load situation, and therefore would advance the timing more than what it would normally. If this is true, it would seem that the advanced timing would create a dangerous situation for boosted motors.

As far as I know, lilevo is the only one who has matched a larger MAF with larger injectors, and I haven't seen any reports from him about the ECU advancing the timing too much.

Anyone have any insight on this?

 

[lilevo]

You need to retard the timing regardless on any boosted application. General rule is 1-1.5 degrees per pound of boost. In order to do that you need some type of engine management with the ability to remove timing.

 

[Robb235]

You need to retard the timing regardless on any boosted application. General rule is 1-1.5 degrees per pound of boost. In order to do that you need some type of engine management with the ability to remove timing.

I agree with you there. In my case, I'm slowly piecing together a turbo kit for my 5vz-fe, and my solution to the timing issue was simply use water/meth to increase octane.

But my question is, with switching to the larger MAF and injectors, and holding everything else constant, did you experience more timing advance from the ECU than what you would with normal size MAF and injectors?

 

[lilevo]

I have no idea. I never logged timing advance with pre-turbo, vs post turbo with stock injectors and maf vs upgraded.

 

[scottryana]

This is true, increasing MAF size will give the computer a lower load guess and it will usually have slightly higher timing. Very important to have a way to adjust timing.

If you want to play with the AEM FIC8, I have one sitting on the shelf used for 2 months, I would let go pretty cheap.

I agree with you there. In my case, I'm slowly piecing together a turbo kit for my 5vz-fe, and my solution to the timing issue was simply use water/meth to increase octane.

But my question is, with switching to the larger MAF and injectors, and holding everything else constant, did you experience more timing advance from the ECU than what you would with normal size MAF and injectors?

 

[Lexland]

Great job on the turbo build Lilevo!!! I this i red most of the 19 pages, because its been on my mind for a while now.
How is the truck running so far? Do you stil get a fuel cut at the higher rpms or have you already solved that with the injectors
I was going to ask you what is the diameter of your exhaust, and if you still have youre cats?
Are you using a bov? Also is knock till resent?
Sorry for all the questions. I had a supra n/a and t before, the eletronics were the same headaches for us as well, many people use
lexus ls400 maf sensors to trick the ecu to dump more fuel and to correct the issues, wanted to know if i has been tried as well as 7mte coilpacks instead of the distributor?
Thanks

 

[scottryana]

I think Lilevo said he parks his 80 series for the winter. He hasn't been around that much lately. No one I know is using coil packs on the 1FZ. Could be done by no one is doing it. Lol