Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

clownmidget

 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Place holder for adding detail....
Manifold:
Air Power Systems Safari turbocharger (http://www.safarisnorkel.com/turbo/turbo_product.htm) -all Toyota petrol stuff defunct
this is a two part log style, divided T3 flange facing down

Turbo:
Holset HX35G (non-US market, likely Volvo LPG), divided T3, 12 cu cm turbine housing, coolant & oil fed center section
Internal wastegate, 8 psi Garrett actuator

Spark Plugs:
The original Safari instructions call for replacing them with NGK BCPR7ES-11
Information from here recommends Toyota (DENSO) 90919-01180-83

MAF:
LandTank Gen1 housing without sleeve (~3.03" diameter)
Treadstone 3.5" housing 1.23" DENSO sensor (http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68092&cat_key=467&prodname=DENSO MAF, Mass Air Meter Pipe, Subaru, Scion, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus)
Treadstone Honeycomb (http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68172&cat_key=467&prodname=HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener)

Gauges:
PLX DM-6 Gen 4 AFR & V/B
Ultragauge OBD-II

Injectors:
stock

Fuel Pump:
stock

Fuel Pressure Regulator:
stock

ECU Piggyback:
AEM F/IC-8

Fuel Pump:
OEM TT Supra Denso Pump, hardwired to the battery with 10 gauge.
Denso p/n 195130-1020
Toyota p/n 23221-46110

Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Stock, rising rate regulator, no change needed

Injectors:
On my setup, the stock 280cc injectors were totally maxxed out and unsafe to drive at wide open throttle.
Yellow Denso 854-450 (195500-4450). $435 for a set of 6
www.fiveomotorsport.com

MAF:
Oem maf doesnt cut it with the extra massive airflow.
1999+ toyota 22204-21010 air flow sensor (search for Landtank MAF PDF as the pinout needs to be altered)
Treadstone Performance 3.5" denso 1.23" maf pipe
Treadstone 3.5" honeycomb to smooth airflow

Spark Plugs:
OEM is BKR5ES. I highly recommend BKR6ES. It is one step cooler and will resist detonation better than the 5's

ECU Piggyback:
Underdog Racing Development Fuel Timing Controller. Other good options are the Haltech interceptor or AEM F/IC 6 p/n 30-1910 or AEM F/IC 8 p/n 30-1930. The F/IC 8 has built in boost control (you need a $40 MAC solenoid P/N 35A-AAA-DDEA-1BA) and has a few other features over the F/IC 6.

Transmission:
The stock shifting is no good with added power. Install a TransGo reprogram kit
DIY thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/731930-a343-transgo-reprogram-kit-install-1995-1997-a.html
[\QUOTE]
 
Last edited:

clownmidget

 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Will try to add to this in a step-wise fashion. First will keep most of this stock.

Right now, with essentially just the turbo thrown on it is clearly not getting enough fuel as you go towards full throttle as Lilevo experienced. I've only run the engine through less than 10 start up/shut down cycles so maybe the ECU is still learning but the STFT & LTFT values have settled into pretty normal values except under mid to full throttle. Have not finished installing the PLX gauges so I don't have AFR or boost values yet. Amazingly no CEL or pending ones. Stock O2 sensors in the stock position with high flow catalytic converter, 3" diameter exhaust.

I have the 3.5" MAF housing in hand to throw on once I see what AFR's are. Everything else is sitting on work bench as well.
 

scottryana

 
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
10,381
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
I would not throw the 3.5" MAF on unless you are matching it with equal size injectors and have a way to retard timing. By increasing the MAF size you're decreasing the perceived load which means timing will be more advanced than stock when you already want to retard timing.
 

clownmidget

 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Right, thanks. I should be more clear too, I won't be adding anything until I've got some results and numbers from the current setup to make a move - bigger injectors, MAF housing, fuel pump, etc. I think the very next thing once the AFR & boost gauge is on, is the FIC-8 so I can try and deal with the issues Lilevo has dealt with in this thread. It appears the narrowband O2 values may be the biggest challenge. Thought this was interesting (http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp004.pdf) - bottom of page 2 shows type of connection for the pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor.
 

scottryana

 
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
10,381
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Oh that is cool, but I am sure the PLX sensor doesn't match the stock O2 sensor pattern so you will need to weld in a bung regardless. Pretty cool to have that option though if you were starting an exhaust from scratch and had old stock O2 sensors.
 

clownmidget

 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Yeah, the exhaust has the wideband O2 sensor just upstream of the stock pre-catalytic O2 sensor. What I want to know is can I do that with the narrowband wiring in order to allow the AEM to better control those values?
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
626
Location
53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
No fuel cut issues. 450's and the new MAF solved those issues. 3" from the turbine housing to the exhaust tip. No cats. BOV of course, every forced induction setup should have one. Don't know about knock since there is no way to log it. Distributor works fine, no issues.

Truck runs fine, I only drive it a few hundred miles a year. All i have been using it for is towing my jetskis to the lake and towing my race car around here and there.

With the added 4k+ lbs of the trailer it just doesn't tow well with the F/IC 8 setup. There are too many times where I'm in "limbo cells". I'm never WOT while towing and usually always in 1-3psi range at low load/low RPM. This confuses everything and it never runs the proper AFR. So I end up towing in vacuum the whole time.

My solution is that I'm buying a Tundra to do towing and leaving the Cruiser as just a driver. At this point, its more like a car anyways. If the cruiser was my only toy I would maybe do a Honda AEM box like the "Dezod IS300" kit for early 2000's IS300's which uses the AEM as a piggyback to do timing and fuel.

I still have the 800hp Mitsubishi and also picked up a Lamborghini Gallardo a few months ago. I have an 04 LS430 as a daily, I also have an 89 22-RE pickup, 71 Land Cruiser with an SBC 355, and a fully lockered 94 Cruiser that I use as a plow rig. I also jetski all summer so I have three of those to keep up on modifications and what not. Nothing is ever "finished" and something always needs tinkering.

The turbo land cruiser really needs a fresh engine put in. It has 240k on it and leaks oil like crazy. Front, rear main seals, oil pan maybe. Last time I towed my car 400 miles there was engine oil all over the underbody, spare tire, rear diff, trailer, etc, lol. It just drips/leaks and sprays backwards. Typical high mileage stuff. So that's another huge undertaking.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Messages
30
The turbo land cruiser really needs a fresh engine put in. It has 240k on it and leaks oil like crazy. Front, rear main seals, oil pan maybe. Last time I towed my car 400 miles there was engine oil all over the underbody, spare tire, rear diff, trailer, etc, lol. It just drips/leaks and sprays backwards. Typical high mileage stuff. So that's another huge undertaking.
You're not inadvertently boosting the crankcase are you?
 

scottryana

 
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
10,381
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
Nice find, not a lot of 2004's around and even fewer with only 10k miles. Looks good. What wheels and tires did you go with? When does the twin turbo happen?
 

scottryana

 
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
10,381
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
The R888's are nice they stick well, wear fast, but mine had a bad howl around 80mph, 5mph in either direction was ok, but cruise set at 80 was terrible.

Sounds like you have some fun toys.
 
Top Bottom