Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
626
Location
53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
Here comes another turbo build!

This one on my 1996 Cruiser.

This build will be slightly different than the others, it will be ultimate low-budget, but quality DIY for someone looking to put a turbo on their truck.

I will list part numbers, prices, and other detailed measurements that anyone will be able to use and put together.

Turbo Kit Completed 4/7/13 - Cliff Notes:

Fuel Pump:
OEM TT Supra Denso Pump, hardwired to the battery with 10 gauge.
Denso p/n 195130-1020
Toyota p/n 23221-46110

Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Stock, rising rate regulator, no change needed

Injectors:
On my setup, the stock 280cc injectors were totally maxxed out and unsafe to drive at wide open throttle.
Yellow Denso 854-450 (195500-4450). $435 for a set of 6
www.fiveomotorsport.com

MAF:
Oem maf doesnt cut it with the extra massive airflow.
1999+ toyota 22204-21010 air flow sensor (search for Landtank MAF PDF as the pinout needs to be altered)
Treadstone Performance 3.5" denso 1.23" maf pipe
Treadstone 3.5" honeycomb to smooth airflow

Spark Plugs:
OEM is BKR5ES. I highly recommend BKR6ES. It is one step cooler and will resist detonation better than the 5's

ECU Piggyback:
Underdog Racing Development Fuel Timing Controller. Other good options are the Haltech interceptor or AEM F/IC 6 p/n 30-1910 or AEM F/IC 8 p/n 30-1930. The F/IC 8 has built in boost control (you need a $40 MAC solenoid P/N 35A-AAA-DDEA-1BA) and has a few other features over the F/IC 6.

Transmission:
The stock shifting is no good with added power. Install a TransGo reprogram kit
DIY thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/731930-a343-transgo-reprogram-kit-install-1995-1997-a.html


Knock Sensors:

My truck has 238k on it and I never had problems with the knock sensors. My first test drive with the turbo kit threw both knock sensor codes. I just replaced them both with aftermarket ones on ebay $70/each. Codes went away. If you don't replace them, the truck will be very doggy due to pulled timing.

If you are adding forced induction, replace your knock sensors!

Spreadsheet of the entire build:
http://lilevo.com/pictures/cars/turbolc/TurboLandCruiser_Price_List.xls

Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkT60G8DjPk&feature=youtu.be

0-60mph Cluster Video Pre-Transgo reprogram kit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BXnHmd3S5g&feature=youtu.be

Few pulls after I installed the Transgo reprogram kit and after the dyno session at 295awhp / 357tq at 8.5psi
http://youtu.be/JuvjhjHjry8

Dyno:
Stock N/A was 155hp/219tq
8.7psi was 285hp 339tq
10.5psi was 295hp 357tq

I didn't want to try more boost still being on stock head bolts although I probably could have cracked 300hp easily.

I also dynoed my car that I trailered there with the truck. The car made:

22psi = 510hp, 398tq
45psi = 744hp, 566tq

Video: http://youtu.be/l1gU8DXs5Yg














First step, the manifold. I went with the Treadstone because they have a lifetime warranty, cast manifolds are cheap, and well suited for the low boost duty my truck will have. A custom tubular manifold by my friends shop would run around $1600 and the timing and overkill eliminated that as a choice.

Treadstone also seemed to have changed their design, at least from the pictures on their website, to incorporate expansion cuts in the runners that may reduce any potential cracking.

Price: $419 plus the $25 gasket, stud, washer, and nut set for the turbo and wastegate.

I have many of the rest of the fab parts on the way and I also have the turbo from a prior vehicle. Subscribe and stay tuned!



 
Last edited:

landtank

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Joined
Mar 27, 2003
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Groveland MA
Be aware that theanifold is not machined 100%. They don't spot face where the studs are so the factory hardware is useless. And finding longer studs in a m10x1.25 has proven difficult from what I remember. They also don't machine a passageway foe the egr, if that matters to you.
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
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2,104
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Texas
Baktash is selling the J-pipe which is ideal for a twin scroll and the 1FZFE manifolds are excellent to support a twin scroll set up. I think he is asking close to the same as that log style manifold.
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
626
Location
53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
The j-pipe is a good idea, but not my style. I'm not sure we can estimate reliability and longevity either on something like that. Never done before on this application that I know of.

I mocked up the manifold and turbo. I also drilled and tapped the pan, and got the oil feed lines squared away. I have a -4 braided line coming off of the block into a three way "T". The factory sending unit and another -4 line comes out of the T and goes to an inline filter which also doubles as a restrictor. I will take final measurements tomorrow for couplers, intercooler piping, and air/water size and fitment.

Then I'm putting the stock pipes back on so I can drive to Indy and spend a weekend at my friends shop to fab up a downpipe. At that point it will literally only take a few hours to swap the turbo bits on since I will have all the fiddly stuff complete. I have a -10 cap on the drain so I can still drive the truck and the oil feed "T" is also capped off.

Engine overview picture:


Completed oil drain fitting. (1/2 NPT to -10)


I'm also compiling a nice clean PDF file with all part numbers, quantities, and prices
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
626
Location
53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
The fit and finish isn't as perfect as oem cast turbo manifolds like a mitsubishi for example, but for being one of the only options on a good off the shelf manifold I'm happy with it.

I have all my other exhaust parts on my mitsubishi Swain coated so I will be sending off the manifold and the turbine housing on monday to get the same white ceramic.
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
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2,430
Location
Trumansburg, New York
Maybe a used one can be had for under $1K but then you'll be wondering...

The real deal properly spec'd is going to be closer to $1500 just for that, before you start tossing in blow off valve & plumbing. Not trying to pee in the Cheerios, just to make it clear doing a turbo setup is not really cheap.
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
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this is amazing, please keep this updated, im in the middle of doing the exact same build and having a few slight problems
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
626
Location
53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
Well, knowledge and resources are key to finding a good, used, reliable turbo. Similar to this website, there are others that I am on geared more towards performance and these parts are traded at a much lower cost and much more frequently.

I bought my GT35R with Tial 38 wastegate, cast treadstone (mitsubishi) T3 manifold, with a T3 turbine housing for $1200 shipped. It had to be basically brand new or used for under a few thousand miles. A lot of times guys will buy these things to mock up to their engines or run them for a brief period of time before parting out, blowing up, or upgrading to something else. That's the mitsubishi world for you.

That was back in 2007 and the turbo has lasted since then on up to 45psi on my other car. I put down 640awhp which is approximately 750-760hp at the engine and then upgraded to another turbo.

Back on topic, I guess the word budget is up to your own opinions, but in this case it means being able to do the project yourself in a weekend or two with the ability to source all your own parts versus buying an off the shelf kit for 3-$5000 and not really knowing what you are receiving.

Here is a picture of the new oil sending unit setup and original oil sender port on the engine:



The capped outlet on the T goes to a -4 inline oil filter from Forced Performance (I will never run another turbo without it) and then to the turbo.
Filter: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=FP4ANFilter&Category_Code=

I just placed the last order of parts and send the turbine housing and manifold off to Swain Tech to be coated. They should be back in my hands within three weeks or so. Then I'm off to Indy to install the kit over a weekend.
 
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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,194
Location
Orem, UT
Be aware that theanifold is not machined 100%. They don't spot face where the studs are so the factory hardware is useless. And finding longer studs in a m10x1.25 has proven difficult from what I remember. They also don't machine a passageway foe the egr, if that matters to you.
McMaster sells "metric Medium-Strength Alloy Steel Threaded Studs and Rods—ASTM A193 Grade B7" in m10x1.25, plain 4140 alloy steel, 300mm length for $30.

Also "low strength" "class 4.6 plain steel" m10x1.25 in 40mm, 50mm, 60mm, 300mm, and 1M lengths.
 
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