Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (5 Viewers)

[Dirty Koala]

So I got it running twice. Both times it ran right up to 2300 and stayed there. The first time I pulled the key out and it shut off. The second time it kept running I had to manually pull the shutoff solonoid down to turn the motor off. Haven't tried again since.

I think the issue is with my throttle linkage. It was hitting the IC pipe, so I had adjusted the stop until it wouldn't contact the pipe any longer. I think doing so has effectively set my idle at 2200 rpm. So close, but yet still so far.

I

 

[justinlyman]

So I got it running twice. Both times it ran right up to 2300 and stayed there. The first time I pulled the key out and it shut off. The second time it kept running I had to manually pull the shutoff solonoid down to turn the motor off. Haven't tried again since.

I think the issue is with my throttle linkage. It was hitting the IC pipe, so I had adjusted the stop until it wouldn't contact the pipe any longer. I think doing so has effectively set my idle at 2200 rpm. So close, but yet still so far.

I

I ended up denting in the ic pipe to clear the throttle linkage, also removing the bracket that hold the throttle cable gives you some more room too.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I ended up denting in the ic pipe to clear the throttle linkage, also removing the bracket that hold the throttle cable gives you some more room too.

Yes this was going to be my next course of action.

On a positive note, I know my tach works

 

[Dirty Koala]

Tonight I stuffed my phone in the engine bay to record a video of the fuel shutoff solenoid, I wanted to see if it was pulling when cranking...only way to do it when working by yourself. It showed me that it wasn't pulling. I then traced the issue to the fusible link that came with the relay harness. They had pre-crimped a butt connector on the onto the fusible link , which I then crimped to the hot line into the relay. After tracing to that crimp I cut it open and found that they had failed to strip any wire prior to crimping .

I soldered and heat shrunk the connection just like I have everywhere else, checked continuity and voltage at the relay..all looked good. I turned the motor over thinking I was going to have to continue the bleeding process, but the truck fired up within half a second.

I only let it run for about a minute then adjusted the idle down to 800 rpm and shut it off as my garage was getting pretty smokey. The motor is very responsive to throttle input as expected, now I just need to button up the xfer case shifter and get my interior wiring sorted... feeling pretty good.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Tonight I stuffed my phone in the engine bay to record a video of the fuel shutoff solenoid, I wanted to see if it was pulling when cranking...only way to do it when working by yourself. It showed me that it wasn't pulling. I then traced the issue to the fusible link that came with the relay harness. They had pre-crimped a butt connector on the onto the fusible link , which I then crimped to the hot line into the relay. After tracing to that crimp I cut it open and found that they had failed to strip any wire prior to crimping .

I soldered and heat shrunk the connection just like I have everywhere else, checked continuity and voltage at the relay..all looked good. I turned the motor over thinking I was going to have to continue the bleeding process, but the truck fired up within half a second.

I only let it run for about a minute then adjusted the idle down to 800 rpm and shut it off as my garage was getting pretty smokey. The motor is very responsive to throttle input as expected, now I just need to button up the xfer case shifter and get my interior wiring sorted... feeling pretty good.

Sorry I have been unable to get pictures of the t case shifter braket. It was actually really easy. I made it off the two rear most shifter plate bolts that bolt the main shift fork assembly to the transmission case. They are either side of the shift rail detent ball housings.

I took 90* angle and shaped it to go rear of thoes two holes about 3" on top of thoes I welded a plate with 4 threaded holes for the 5 case shifter. I have the earlier A440/A442 t case shifter with the narrow mounting base. From there I needed to adjust the length of the shifter rod that connects the shifter to the t case by about 1.5".

Works great, no issues at all. I may need to shorten the shift rod a bit more to allow the shift lever to work in a more ergonomic range but want to wait till I get the manual Shift Console.

Hope this helps, I know a picture tells a thousand words but I just don't have the time to take it apart to get a pic.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Sorry I have been unable to get pictures of the t case shifter braket. It was actually really easy. I made it off the two rear most shifter plate bolts that bolt the main shift fork assembly to the transmission case. They are either side of the shift rail detent ball housings.

I took 90* angle and shaped it to go rear of thoes two holes about 3" on top of thoes I welded a plate with 4 threaded holes for the 5 case shifter. I have the earlier A440/A442 t case shifter with the narrow mounting base. From there I needed to adjust the length of the shifter rod that connects the shifter to the t case by about 1.5".

Works great, no issues at all. I may need to shorten the shift rod a bit more to allow the shift lever to work in a more ergonomic range but want to wait till I get the manual Shift Console.

Hope this helps, I know a picture tells a thousand words but I just don't have the time to take it apart to get a pic.

Thanks Jeremy, I was eyeing up those too cover bolts but hadn't thought hard enough about how to use them. I think I follow what you did.

 

[Dirty Koala]

@Wheelingnoob since I, like most folks had used the clutch master hole to route a variety of wires, I now need to drill a new hole...I assume you already did this, wondering if you routed on the drivers side or through the factory engine harness hole on the passenger side

 

[Wheelingnoob]

@Wheelingnoob since I, like most folks had used the clutch master hole to route a variety of wires, I now need to drill a new hole...I assume you already did this, wondering if you routed on the drivers side or through the factory engine harness hole on the passenger side

I only had 4 wires to run so I ran them through the existing gromit below the master. I plan to later put a hole and proper gromit in.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I only had 4 wires to run so I ran them through the existing gromit below the master. I plan to later put a hole and proper gromit in.

I have 3 4ga cables, the wiring for airlocker switches and a few wires for my dual battery control and monitoring. I'll need a decent size hole and grommet added.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I have 3 4ga cables, the wiring for airlocker switches and a few wires for my dual battery control and monitoring. I'll need a decent size hole and grommet added.

I have all of that on the passenger nder side.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I also ran my big wire on passenger side. My driver side under master is about maxed out.

 

[thegogglesdonothing]

Sorry to hijack your thread but I'm running into an A/C issue and a difference of opinion between my builder and a 3rd party automotive HVAC vendor. The issue concerns a fan shroud for the main fan - DA's kit doesn't include one, and my builder feels strongly that it isn't necessary to fabricate one, as the clearance between the back of the radiator and the fan itself creates enough airflow. The HVAC shop says every bit of efficiency directed toward the A/C compressor helps, and I wonder what you think in general? Are you using, or do you plan to use, a shroud? If not, how have you justified it to yourself?

Great progress on the build!

 

[bryson]

Sorry to hijack your thread but I'm running into an A/C issue and a difference of opinion between my builder and a 3rd party automotive HVAC vendor. The issue concerns a fan shroud for the main fan - DA's kit doesn't include one, and my builder feels strongly that it isn't necessary to fabricate one, as the clearance between the back of the radiator and the fan itself creates enough airflow. The HVAC shop says every bit of efficiency directed toward the A/C compressor helps, and I wonder what you think in general? Are you using, or do you plan to use, a shroud? If not, how have you justified it to yourself?

Great progress on the build!

Shroud for the win 100%.

Both for AC and engine cooling efficiency.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Shroud for the win 100%.

Both for AC and engine cooling efficiency.

Yeah I agree, I have not got one on mine yet but plan too

 

[Dirty Koala]

Sorry to hijack your thread but I'm running into an A/C issue and a difference of opinion between my builder and a 3rd party automotive HVAC vendor. The issue concerns a fan shroud for the main fan - DA's kit doesn't include one, and my builder feels strongly that it isn't necessary to fabricate one, as the clearance between the back of the radiator and the fan itself creates enough airflow. The HVAC shop says every bit of efficiency directed toward the A/C compressor helps, and I wonder what you think in general? Are you using, or do you plan to use, a shroud? If not, how have you justified it to yourself?

Great progress on the build!

I agree that a shroud can only help, but I am going to wait and see how my AC handles without the shroud before I start working on a custom one.

The cummins naturally runs cool, and that mechanical fan is massive compared to the OEM fan. For those running the intercooler up high there is additional restriction to pull air through the I/C, condensor and radiator, but I doubt a shroud will be required given the additional air volume capacity of the cummins fan over toyota fan. For those running the DA I/C down low, there is no additional restriction.

Are you having A/C issues now or is this a theoretical debate?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

My A/C sucks big time since my condenser is sandwiched between the radiator and intercooler.

 

[Dirty Koala]

My A/C sucks big time since my condenser is sandwiched between the radiator and intercooler.

Cim you are also running an electric fan right?

Will be interesting to see how the A/C is without the I/C blocking it.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Cim you are also running an electric fan right?

Will be interesting to see how the A/C is without the I/C blocking it.

Yes two electrics that presently kick on at 195.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Yes two electrics that presently kick on at 195.

Can you replace the thermoswitch so they come on at 185 instead?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Can you replace the thermoswitch so they come on at 185 instead?

I originally had a 185 sensor switch installed but I didn't like it turning the fans on before it was needed.