Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ??? (2 Viewers)

[Delancy]

Updating both, so it can be part of the record.

Met with Britt to inspect the 71 and while he was there, we discussed future plans for the 76, to which exclaimed an excellent starting point that isn't going to require much to, if continuing the same path as the 72.

Bondo on the rear corners and the roof issue, about all that will need major correction. Said fenders are good, rocker appears solid, pinholes in a few spots on fender lips, and about it.

Suggested hunting a roof "lid" as he'd want to drill out what's there, opposed to trying to repair, since there was something that caved it in and pulled at the gutter welds.

Glad to hear some good news, for once, but he seemed to think it has a lot of potential if restoring.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Gotcha. More thread searching.



Haha. Best I could describe.

Ever see how some porous plastics look like Swiss cheese after super gluing?

That's what it looks like, with a grainy, fibrous layer of crap stuck to it.

That can be somewhat cleaned up with a small torch. Country folk will essentially remelt the plastic on the steering wheels on tractors that sit out in the elements

I wouldn't bother on a wheel that's going to be sanded after epoxy

 

[nuclearlemon]

Suggested hunting a roof "lid" as he'd want to drill out what's there, opposed to trying to repair, since there was something that caved it in and pulled at the gutter welds.
.

How much of the lid? I have a roof in the sideyard

 

[Delancy]

How much of the lid? I have a roof in the sideyard

It's pulled the DS seam all the way down where the gutter welds and the PS from the front pillar to the rear door.

It's caved in pretty good and the assumption is whatever impacted pulled it at those seams and that's where the rust began and is visible, but it's what below that concerns.

I didn't have the FSM for the 72 on me, but best I can recollect and visually see, along with what Britt described as a "lid" is the entire roof skin and gutter as one piece.

When I asked about correcting what was there, he did say that it's possible to, but that this Pig was in such good condition, that it warrants the search which I've all kinds of time to do.

He really wanted to keep the 71 parts Pig roof for this one, but not going to short that build, period.

What he's planning to do is drill the welds on the 71 and transfer to 72, gutter and all and thinking that's what he's describing here.

Would you think that it'd be possible to recreate a "lid" if what he's suggesting is as rare as a dinosaur?

 

[Delancy]

Still no title......

 

[OGBeno]

Still no title......

WTF!!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

Still no title......

Bummer.

Is the PO working on it?

Have you paid in full?

 

[Delancy]

Bummer.

You can say that again.

Reserving comments, at this point regarding.....

 

[Delancy]

OE Goodies










Steering and Brakes addressed.

Found a spider kit, but need to ask if that's what's necessary to pull the rear locker.

Also, a gift from okiedave






Need to clean up, but no cracks on wheel and it looks much better than the Grant that's on it now.

Thanks, Dave!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Delancy,

Set me straight, as I'm getting confused. These OE parts, you're buying, are they just ramdom parts. Are they for the 72 or the 76?

The 72 is going to be painfully stock and the 76 a restomod type driver, right.

Nice steering wheel, that's going on the 76, right.

 

[tucker74]

Found a spider kit, but need to ask if that's what's necessary to pull the rear locker.

To pull the locker you need a tiny flathead screwdriver and a lot of patience, parts wise you just need a spacer, set of side gears and spiders w/spacers. You'll use the same thrust washers that are on the locker now -

Tucker

 

[Delancy]

Set me straight, as I'm getting confused.

Can you imagine my confusion, then?

Me, too, Ron. Me, too.

Bahaha.

These OE parts, you're buying, are they just ramdom parts. Are they for the 72 or the 76?

The 72 is going to be painfully stock and the 76 a restomod type driver, right.

I have all OE parts available for the 72, already, which will be a painful resto.

The OE parts depicted previously in this thread are for the 76, specifically, and yes it'll be a resto-mod driver.....to what extent it'll "resto" I can only assume that it'll inevitably morph into a "full" resto, but driven along the way, during the 72s major surgery and with disregard to some aspects of the OE form (like seats, seat belts, interior items)


Here's my plan for the 76.....all contingent upon clear title.

Address steering, the parts I now have, since tie rod is bent, tres are shot, and center has a lot of play. Will maintain the OE steering, since the lack of power steering isn't really as big of an issue as I thought it would be.

Keep it tractor-ish, as intended.

Address brakes, parts included in this shipment, too.

Both items are safety concerns, so planned to do before seeing road service, but the delay on titling has impacted the timeline to do the work.

A new local development has changed the planned timeline on 76 drivetrain work, so plan to address several other areas of concern, all at once and all with the benefit of a lift.

Have access to a well equipped shop with blasting and painting capabilities, operated by a professional, renowned diff builder whose been buying up all the local Pigs and 40s.

Spoke to him last week during a reconnaissance mission to see what Pigs he had, see what he had coming in, and to chit chat. During, discussed pulling axles, blasting, painting, resealing, using his faculties, but using the time it's on the lift to re-arch springs (see questions post next, cause I'm confused and consternating over a few things) and paint, pull driveshafts to balance, u joints, blast and paint.

After discussing this, he suggested, since most will be exposed, resealing the TC/tranny, "while I'm in there" which makes sense to me.

I've since considered pulling the tank, "while I'm in there" and having Oil Capital give it the full treatment.

After that, the immediate areas of concern are getting an OE carb (have emails in with Jim C. that included very, very, very little text, but lots of pictures. ) tune up, general PM.

Nice steering wheel, that's going on the 76, right.

Yes. Pighead or Ige confirmed correct for model year, wanted the blue for the 72 but wasn't correct, so figured this would beat the Grant wheel that's on the 76, now.

Dave dropped it by at 6:30 this morning on his way to Corpus, so he went well out of his way to get in my hands and I'm much appreciative of.

Think it'll clean up fine and no cracks anywhere I can see, so a big time score that he refused money for.

He wound up with the 40 top that came in the 71 parts Pig and will wind up with a bunch more "stuff" as a clear out the bay full of F and F.5 that I can't give away, elsewhere.

 

[Delancy]

To pull the locker you need a tiny flathead screwdriver and a lot of patience, parts wise you just need a spacer, set of side gears and spiders w/spacers. You'll use the same thrust washers that are on the locker now -

Tucker

The spider kit in box is for driveshaft as Onur informed. I didn't open, otherwise I could've avoided the dumb question.

Going to see what I have, since Ige insinuated that I'm missing something to pull locker and replace with spiders on hand.

 

[Delancy]

Dumb Questions

First. I have Mark's 2.5" HD shackles originally intended for the 72 which currently has 33" KM2s.

In light of a strict OE adherence on the 72, I'm considering using the shackles and KM2s on the 76, then running an 31" AT on the 72.

Dumb?

Regardless, the 76 is begging for a higher stature and even considered the 2.5" shackles and 34" tires, because most of the Pigs I see with 33s are 1.5".

So, 2.5" and 33s or 34s for the 76?

Either way, and I know very little about leaf sprung suspension, I'm assuming that lift shackles provide all lift, so I would re-arch OE leafs to OE specs, and the shackles themselves provide height without impacting caster or driveline angles.

My question on this is, are shackles the better means, should OE leafs be re-arched to provide all lift and use OE shackles, or are new leaf springs the way to go, addressing all concerns (height, caster, driveline angle) and producing a plush, comfortable ride.

Already have the shocks taken care of, but beyond that, I can't make any other determinations due to information overload.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Delancy,

If you are planning to do the full resto. route, on the 72, then not an issue. Put on only what came with it, Use only the options that came on the 72, done. That's the painful part, as there were many improvements along the line.

Now, if you're going to add some safety items and maybe a lift and bigger tires, then you can decide to do more gray areas. 3 point seat belts, AC, 4 speed, etc.

Either way, it will be a heck of a wagon, you decide.

 

[tucker74]

A shackle lift is known as "the poor mans lift", you really only muck with the shackles to get a better angle I'm sure they would be fine on the '72 and give it a little lift, but I'd go with the stock shackles plated back to the stock gold on a true resto. Having said that, they would most definitely give you a little more room for the 33s ... only disadvantage is you may have to run a caster wedge if it wanders on you. They would also be fine on the '76, but I would do them in conjunction with 2.5"-4" lift springs.

Those are great shackles and what I run with 2.5" lift springs on my '79

Tucker

 

[Delancy]

72 will remain a full resto, so I guess that answers the question on the tires and lift that were allocated for it, transferring to this 76.

Considering the length of time the 72 will be sitting, guess it'd be prudent to put old tires on it anyway. Haha.

So I'll transfer the 33" KM2s from the 72 to the 76, keeping the wheels that are on the 76, because I think they're kind of cool and probably from the same period. Clean them up, of course.






Still begs the question of a 2.5" shackle lift and OE leaf re-arch being the best "lift" for the 76.

Have seen 1.5" lifts and 33s, which would suit me fine if that's all that's required to clear 33s for on road usage. Lower is always better, in my opinion, especially since I drive a high rise building with the 80.

Any input on 1.5" versus 2.5" lift for 33s primarily for on road?

Any input on shackle lift, versus arching OEs, versus new leafs altogether?

 

[OGBeno]

Get real lift springs, new bushings, etc. It is going to make the ride significantly better on the 76

 

[Delancy]

Get real lift springs, new bushings, etc. It is going to make the ride significantly better on the 76

Has to ride like a Caddy, after all.

The concession for no PS, no AC.

Bahahaha.

 

[PabloCruise]

If the '76 springs are decent, just run new bushings.

Pig springs will clear a 33x10.5.

And yes, I do like those wheels. I am running the same on my 40.