Definitive led thread for 80s (3 Viewers)

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Is someone offering a kit that includes all the LEDs listed in the original post? I tried to search around for one but the only thing I've seen is a kit for the interior lights, not the dash lights as well.
 
Having reviewed this whole thread, I see where people have had problems with the longevity of the LED bulbs. I was wondering if the LEDs coming out now are lasting any longer these days.

My D light is out and I will be working on it soon. I was thinking about going to LEDs. The idea of an LED dash/instrument cluster is neat but if it means I will have to go back into it every once in a while, or even once a year, I would just as soon stay with incandescents and let it go for another 20.

Any recent experiences appreciated.
 
I think I found the bulbs for the dash. These are non polar, makes it way easier to get right, and the right color. Some of the bulbs I have been buying are too blue, almost purple. These are the blue I like. The only problem is that they are about 1/8" too long. I took a carbide deburring tool in an air grinder and shortened the reflectors a little to make them fit.

This is the LED:
View attachment 397747

This is the deburring bit:
View attachment 397748
View attachment 397747View attachment 397748

I want to get this bulb but I dont understand what part is the reflector that need to be grinded. could you elaborate
 
The 'dash' lights are the 4 main ones the light up the cluster. This doesn't include the P, R, D lights, the turn indicators, or the warning lights. The main bulbs for the cluster are 194 type bulbs. If you go to the autolumination page, they don't list part numbers. The description is:

Introducing the New 5 Led SMT Tower 194 168 W5W 2825

Outfitted with the latest Super High-Flux SMT Leds

Fully Regulated - Non-Polar Proprietary Circuitry. Protected Under (US Patent # 7,345,433)

The Widest, Brightest and Best 194 168 W5W 2825 Ever Made!

Only 10mm diameter x 32mm overall

Don't be fooled by cheap imitations, these are not available anywhere else!

(Note: these are slightly larger than stock 194 bulbs. Please measure to make sure they will fit before you order)

194 168 W5W 2825 SMT Tower
Super White Blue Red Amber

Order 194 SMT Bulbs (shown above): $8.99 ea.



If I add it to the cart, it says:

Your Shopping Cart
Item Options Quantity Remove Amount
T10 Wedge 4 $35.96
Item # SMT Tower Color: Blue
Lens: 194

The autolumination site isn't the most user-friendly site
 
Heater
(3)Type B - green--------------------------------------------------autolumination - Neowedge Item # Single Led Type B Blue 2.99
(12)3mm green LED (soldered)--------------------------------------superbrightleds - RL3-B2030 Blue 3mm LED $ 0.63
(2) 3mm amber LED (soldered)--------------------------------------superbrightleds - RL3-R5030 Red 3mm LED $ 0.60

For the Heater the NEOx LED Bulb - High Power Instrument Panel LED | Super Bright LEDs from SuperBright work well as they face forward. Per the original post, you will need (3). They are not very good for the switches as they are not orientated the correct direction. In hindsight, I wish I had used a BLUE (1 of 12) for the A/C button.

Also destroyed my rear heater switch in the process, be warned there are lil baby springs in there.

This upgrade has truly add luxury to my luxurious LX450 experience.
 
Are the antenna up/down, ECT, rear defrost, and hazard light buttons supposed to be illuminated when they aren't in use? At the moment, none of those are illuminated so it makes it difficult at night to know what button to press unless I turn the dome light on.
 
Mine weren't either...but they are now. The whole climate cluster was dark too. Had to really jam some LEDs in them
 
Are the antenna up/down, ECT, rear defrost, and hazard light buttons supposed to be illuminated when they aren't in use? At the moment, none of those are illuminated so it makes it difficult at night to know what button to press unless I turn the dome light on.
They are all back lit with incadesent bulbs with green bulb condoms except the hazard has no green cover.
 
Mine weren't either...but they are now. The whole climate cluster was dark too. Had to really jam some LEDs in them
For those buttons did you have to solder any bulbs? Or were they just the twist in variety?
 
Twist. The LEDs that i got were too big..so i won't recommend them to you. I reused the same twist base and just had to make sure i had the right polarity...and for mine i had to file down the LEDs to get then in
 
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Thanks for info!

Also, is there any way to remove the switches from the dash without taking the dash off?
 
can somebody give me the rundown on LED front marker/signal lights for a '92? Ive read so many LED threads my head is spinning and this one started in like 2009 so I dont know what all is available now. It sounds like it is not as simple as just replacing the bulb and I may need to put in a relay or something. Anyhow, my front end is all off from re-finishing the paint and I want to brighten up the markers to match some Raptor style markers i'm throwing on the grille before I put the corners back in
 
i had good luck using superbrightled.com vehicle led finder. youll need an 1156 and 194 and a CF13GL-02 flasher that gets installed in the drivers kick panel.
 
i install all led in my dash replaced those pesky little green alien bulbs , now after changing i notice that the the a/t oil temp light and the oil check light is very lightly lit ...do i have to install resistors to them ...cursed ..its so darn hard .

also are the lights inside the a/c panel changable they are also green and i got the led but are they just plainly removable or i have to pry them open or some thing .
 
My speedo side bulb went out which made night driving a bit sketchy. I decided to jump on the led bandwagon as well, and ordered the 194 style red led bulbs from superbrightled's. They are the bulbs that have 5 diodes and spread light in all directions. I feel like they do not "seat" into the twist lock bulb base very well. Has anyone else had this issue?
Also, when puilling bulbs at a picknpull or whatever, the "ramps" on the bases may be slightly different which will not allow the bulb to lock in properly. I grabbed some bulbs from a Camry, and a Corola last time, and they didn't want to work for me (only for the biggest 194 type bulb bases, the little guys seemed ok).
I discovered a similar issue while pulling sockets to attempt a somewhat factory turn signal mod. the "ramps" on the 3 wire base are narrower. I may be able to work around with a thicker o-ring though.
 
Here's one of the little guys I used,
and the results

IMG_3457 (2).JPG


IMG_3460 (2).JPG
 
@MrMikeyG I typically drive with my cluster very dim on purpose, do you know or have you been able to test if these dim and if so do they dim well? The multi directional LED i think is key for your cluster looking so even.
 
I didn't test the dimmer at all yet. The 08 Tundra I have has red dash, that was my main reason. I thought about going blue, but too late 90's VW Jetta. If I can get a reasonable quitting time this week, I will do some real world testing. I'd really rather not get into my dash again any time soon. I can barely get the HVAC harnesses undone, and the middle bezel part that span the whole width is already cracked above the steering column.
It may be better to pull the steering wheel for a lot of dash fiddling.
 

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