- Thread starter
- #81
Peekaboo
Something is not right on the “new” motor either.
Something is not right on the “new” motor either.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wrong upper oil pan? Beyond that I can't tell.. (edit: part number matches 08-11 200 3UR, so I was wrong on that)Peekaboo
View attachment 3133917
Something is not right on the “new” motor either.
View attachment 3133919
Still trying to wrap my head around how they get that block clean enough for a paint job without completely tearing it down… I guess that’s fully “rebuilt”?
Yeah, no oil level sensor on upper pan that should have been present on the described 2013 engine. Either the pan was swapped at the shop supplying the motor or the entire things is a bait/switch. I haven’t been available to pull the vin on the block yet. I have some options to resolve but it is another speed bumpWrong upper oil pan? Beyond that I can't tell.. (edit: part number matches 08-11 200 3UR, so I was wrong on that)
They hosed a used engine off with solvent, let it dry (maybe), masked a couple things (maybe), then sprayed it with paint.
I believe hydrolock damage would be concentrated to the bottom end, you had a pic of a broken valve so I’m still in the bad valve spring camp. It would be interesting to see a tear down of the bottom end to see the #2 cylinder, rod and piston.Let’s try again. “New” engine arrived today with the correct oil pan. Also on removing the old, the tech found the #2 fuel injector to be leaking. New theory: While parking (wife reported a sudden rough idle while putting it into park) the injector became stuck open or a seal failed. The cylinder filled enough with gasoline that it hydro locked during startup.
View attachment 3144860
What is the ETA of getting the new engine back in? I might drive down for the first startup!!Let’s try again. “New” engine arrived today with the correct oil pan. Also on removing the old, the tech found the #2 fuel injector to be leaking. New theory: While parking (wife reported a sudden rough idle while putting it into park) the injector became stuck open or a seal failed. The cylinder filled enough with gasoline that it hydro locked during startup.
View attachment 3144860
Will be popping the valve cover off before sending back the core. If I have time I want to pull the head too while there.I believe hydrolock damage would be concentrated to the bottom end, you had a pic of a broken valve so I’m still in the bad valve spring camp. It would be interesting to see a tear down of the bottom end to see the #2 cylinder, rod and piston.
They think they can get it by next week. Not a single timeline has been met so far so I’m not making plans yet, but that has mainly been on the engine acquisition side.What is the ETA of getting the new engine back in? I might drive down for the first startup!!
I would do all the springs and buy a few lottery tickets while you’re at it.Bumping this thread as the same thing just happened to my 200. 2010 with 200,000 miles. #5 exhaust valve broke. Truck was running fine cruising at highway speed when all of a sudden the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and had a bad miss. Similar backstory as well, a few months ago got the check VSC system, CEL and 4Low lights. Did a search here and several people had encountered the same thing. So I did what others here had done and cleared the codes, unhooked the battery and everything was fine for several months. When it happened again this time I definitely wasn’t expecting a broken valve spring. Very thankful that the valve did not drop in the cylinder and so far it looks like it’s avoided the catastrophic damage. As of right now I’m definitely leaning towards just replacing all the valve springs as PM while we’re in there. Just think it would be foolish to replace just the broken one leaving the possibility for another to break, especially after dodging the bullet this time.
That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.I would do all the springs and buy a few lottery tickets while you’re at it.
I’d be interested in putting together data on build date of rigs with failed springs to see whether there is an apparent cut off in this issue.That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.
I’m going to go ahead and put my flame suit on for this next statement- I may be wrong but I could see this problem being similar to the head gasket issue in the 80 series. Talked so a couple independent shops that work on a lot of Toyotas, more Tundras and Sequoias than Cruisers but both have seen this happen. I fell there has to be something inherently wrong here considering how odd this kind of failure is.
They have seen this on the 5.7 in all three models? I ask because I was under the assumption that the Cruiser has the only 5.7 that’s built in Japan. I would like to think this would insulate it some from sharing a similar parts failure but if Toyota sources all the springs from the same supplier then it could make sense to see the failure across multiple models.That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.
I’m going to go ahead and put my flame suit on for this next statement- I may be wrong but I could see this problem being similar to the head gasket issue in the 80 series. Talked so a couple independent shops that work on a lot of Toyotas, more Tundras and Sequoias than Cruisers but both have seen this happen. I fell there has to be something inherently wrong here considering how odd this kind of failure is.