Date code carb identification (2 Viewers)

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Could you guys help me identify this carburetor? Previous owner did a 2F swap in this 71 FJ40 and it looks like he may have pieced this carb together. There is a long stamped arm that was only available between 73-75 but those look like they have a return line and mine doesnt. Also on the lower half of the carb there are 2 ports (one of the ports isn't even hooked up) but the 2 ports were only available in 76/77 carbs.
The number stamped on top of the carb is 1 0 26, which doesn't follow the format mentioned at the beginning of the post. It does have a metal tag attached to a screw that reads 60361 if that helps.. I would like to get a rebuild kit and am trying to pick out the correct one, I have been looking on the SOR website to help ID what I have. Thanks for any help

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74ish carb body
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71/72 carb body
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The carb body looks to be a 74ish. The secondary slow jet draws fuel directly from the fuel bowl(red arrow). 71 carb bodies are molded slightly different, in that the fuel passage to the secondary slow jet picks up fuel after the secondary main jet.

My guess is the air horn(carb top) is from the original 71 carb. Perhaps the 74's airhorn was more warped, bent or the choke butterfly was F'd up. Looks to be a 74ish throttle linkage as well. That said, I do sorta recall seeing FJ40Jim id a carb that was made in (I think 1981) but was for an earlier cruiser.

The port on the right is commonly drilled for a source of ported vacuum. So the PO may have added a vac advance distributor. I've never seen the location of the abandoned port(on the left) used. I'm still learning though. I'd think that at least needs capped.

The big difference between the kits is what main jet, slow jet and power jet sizes they come with. 71-74 gaskets interchange. I believe the carb guru's don't necessarily stick with the jet sizes shipped in the kits though.
 
Thanks for the reply.. I will get a gasket kit for the 73ish then and go through the carb.. Hopefully the jet size will be fine.. The thing back fires a lot as you can see in the picture, so a good tune up is in order.
 
Yeah I noticed the black. If you've been running it without that base port capped, that could be a contributing factor. I had the same backfire issue with my 71, it is my belief a lean condition was the cause. Hopefully you don't have a vacuum leak at the manifolds, I did. Make sure your idle solenoid is working. At idle you should not be able to see fuel spray. If you shine a light down the primary(passenger) barrel and can see fuel, something is wrong. Make sure you get a stong squirt from your accelerator pump plunger (I've learned a big a** squirt is imperative).

I also switched from points to Pertronix. After doing so, I no longer needed to choke my engine during cold starts. So far I am impressed with the Pertronix. It was maybe a 1/2 hour job to install.

If you have a 74 carb I believe you should have a 120 main and a 200 secondary jet. Make sure you write down what jets you have. Is your engine a 74 F.5?

Make sure your air horn isn't warped. If so, trueing it will help.

To help blow out fuel passages I like to insert 5mm x .8 screws in the main jet locations and a small head 6mm cap screw in place of the power valve. I think it's a 1.00 pitch. You'll see how plugging certain passages help blow others out.

I use 2000 then 3000 grit and wetsand the brass power valve and it's bore so it is buttery smooth.

Don't forget to do a valve adjustment with your engine hot.

Let us know how it goes:cheers:
 
I looked more closely at the number on the carb.. Sure enough it was caked with dirt. Rubbing it off revealed that the zero was actually a C, so the number on the carb is 1 C 26, which makes it a carb for a 1971 FJ. Also the tag number is actually 60261 and not 60361..So because it has a tag on it, does that mean it was made some years later for a 1971 model FJ? It clearly doesn't match what sor.com has illustrated for 1971. The feature that thebigredrocker pointed out does put it in the 73-75ish range when looking on sor.com's website. Its probably a mute point if the rebuild kits cover 71-75 but it is more of a curiosity thing now.
 
Thanks for the great follow up...Unfortunately I don't know what motor it is, let me do some research on how to ID it and get back to you. I'll hit up the parts store tomorrow and see if I can get a rebuild kit here locally so I don't have to order anything.
 
I seem to have a 76 stamped on the front not the top
As the carb has the return line at the carb it can't be in the 80s
Is something not right?
My numbers at 6 E 10

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I have a SD40 (Big Window) Carburetor, it's written H 0370 .. Any body knows anything pls
 
That date breakdown doesn’t seem to make sense on stamped date on my carburetor.
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The 8 makes sense, I was told my 2f replacement came from a 1978 Fj40. But what does the 0 or O represent? Here is the rest of it.
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That looks like a 8C30.

So, 1978, March, 30th.

Always zeros. No “Ohs” or “eyes”. To easy to mistake with zero and one.
You are right, thanks for that. I took a closer photo and it does look like a “C”.
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seems to be a theme.
My 40 is a may 77 that was desmogged by the PO. I think im reading the date code correctly January 9 77?
There are vacuum lines that are not plugged/capped. After reading through this thread I think I should cap them.

Any disagree?
Thanks

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1979, Feb. 07
 
@highrisk
IH8vacuum lines...

I would search through the desmog threads and start a specific thread about your situation.
 
Lol. I searched for everything but desmogged….. that’s a great idea.
Before you get too excited, do some research on WHAT you are desmogging.

Glorified 1bbl.
 
Before you get too excited, do some research on WHAT you are desmogging.

Glorified 1bbl.
Fair enough, any advice on which vac lines to put back together? I am experiencing stutter, bucking, and stall at higher RPMs, when pulling hills, and so on.
 

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