Builds DannyBCruzin in an FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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After that cleaning and small scare, I haven’t noticed any fresh oil leakage, and the fluids still look clean (I.e. not mixing into a milkshake of death). That’s been a relief, but unfortunately the wheels I was gonna snag from my Tacoma buddy didn’t fit...the center bore was too small, so back to the drawing board on that
 
what's wrong with the wheels that came with your truck ?
 
what's wrong with the wheels that came with your truck ?
Got a set of 315/70/17s waiting to go on. Also I’m not a huge fan of the stock ones. I don’t hate them-I’d keep them if my 315s were for 16s
 
You need to get a new set of belts and get your second alternator belt installed.
 
You need to get a new set of belts and get your second alternator belt installed.
Belts are definitely on the list of things to do, but can you clarify second alternator belt? Just not 100% sure whatcha mean...am I missing one??
 
Belts are definitely on the list of things to do, but can you clarify second alternator belt? Just not 100% sure whatcha mean...am I missing one??
Yes, you are missing one. The alternator takes two belts.

Buy OEM, as they are not ribbed (cogged) on the inside and won't make noise.

A great place to buy is:
 
Yes, you are missing one. The alternator takes two belts.

Buy OEM, as they are not ribbed (cogged) on the inside and won't make noise.

A great place to buy is:
Damn, thanks for catching that. I saw one and thought I was good, but it makes sense now with having some power/charging issues
 
Damn, thanks for catching that. I saw one and thought I was good, but it makes sense now with having some power/charging issues
When you buy from OEM, they comes in packs of two, so you buy qty 1, which is a set of two belts.

May as well get a new AC belt too.

Check your idler pulley. Is it making noise? Is it still there (on the alternator side) sometimes the PO removed it (mine was removed and it took a year for me to notice) The belts go on the OUTSIDE of it, not wrapped over it like you might think.
 
When you buy from OEM, they comes in packs of two, so you buy qty 1, which is a set of two belts.

May as well get a new AC belt too.

Check your idler pulley. Is it making noise? Is it still there (on the alternator side) sometimes the PO removed it (mine was removed and it took a year for me to notice) The belts go on the OUTSIDE of it, not wrapped over it like you might think.
I'll have to check when I get it back. In the shop for the axle seal...lost motivation to knock it out myself lol. Idler isn't making noise though.

On a separate note, my "door open" sensors are acting funky. When I close the passenger rear door, it triggers the "door open" sensor and only the driver rear courtesy light turns on. I unhooked the harness for that light so it won't kill my battery, but it's strange. The security system has been unhappy since I changed the battery a few days back. P/O mailed me the remote, but it does nothing. Ever since I swapped in a new battery, the kill switch engages when I try to start it, so I have to override with a secret button. Might just be time to have that system replaced.
 
I'll have to check when I get it back. In the shop for the axle seal...lost motivation to knock it out myself lol. Idler isn't making noise though.

On a separate note, my "door open" sensors are acting funky. When I close the passenger rear door, it triggers the "door open" sensor and only the driver rear courtesy light turns on. I unhooked the harness for that light so it won't kill my battery, but it's strange. The security system has been unhappy since I changed the battery a few days back. P/O mailed me the remote, but it does nothing. Ever since I swapped in a new battery, the kill switch engages when I try to start it, so I have to override with a secret button. Might just be time to have that system replaced.
Most of us have ripped out any alarm system because they go wonky and kill the battery.

The door sensors get dirty and need adjustment or replaced due to corrosion.

Sometimes, you turn left and the doors unlock. That's due to the RF door sensor being corroded. Tape a quarter to the door in the right place and it will solve it.
 
Most of us have ripped out any alarm system because they go wonky and kill the battery.

The door sensors get dirty and need adjustment or replaced due to corrosion.

Sometimes, you turn left and the doors unlock. That's due to the RF door sensor being corroded. Tape a quarter to the door in the right place and it will solve it.
Nice lol science ftw. Guess I'll have to figure that out when she's back
 
If I haven't commented before, congrats on the Chrome Package truck!

There were not many made. They were 1996 LC Only in black, and had the chrome rear view mirrors, door handles, brush guard, wheels. This is what mine is as well.

There are a couple others here, but most folks hate the chrome.

I removed the chrome brush guard, and the chrome wheels are dying slowly as they stop holding air due to the chrome peeling off.

But I like the chrome mirrors and door handles when it's clean!
 
If I haven't commented before, congrats on the Chrome Package truck!

There were not many made. They were 1996 LC Only in black, and had the chrome rear view mirrors, door handles, brush guard, wheels. This is what mine is as well.

There are a couple others here, but most folks hate the chrome.

I removed the chrome brush guard, and the chrome wheels are dying slowly as they stop holding air due to the chrome peeling off.

But I like the chrome mirrors and door handles when it's clean!
Thanks! Lol I think you did in my "hello, I'm a n00b" thread, but yeah I didn't realize it was so special. The chrome is likely all going to go away since it kinda looks like crap now, but I'll enjoy while it lasts haha
 
Not much to report lately, as I was out of town a couple weeks for the holidays. I did end up getting a Low Range axle rebuild kit for a steal though, so I'm pretty pumped about that. Also got a basic little Pioneer head unit on Cyber Monday from Best Buy that's going in next week...hopefully I can get some tunes in there finally. Next is going to be wheels & tires, then reinstalling the front sway bar, then tackling the slight power steering leak and replacing all the belts (and adding the second alternator one thanks to @BILT4ME ), then full fluid/lube replacement, and then finally taking this whale out into the wild :steer:
 
With incessant taunting from friends on my indecisiveness, I finally pulled the trigger on some wheels - “Icon Rebound Series” 17x8.5, 4.75” BS, 0mm offset. @Box Rocket was kind enough to confirm that these fit (without a center cap) our chunky hubs without boring out the centers. Finally...now I can finally ditch these bald 285s and install my not quite as bald 315/70/17 Cooper STT Pros :cheers:

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This weekend, if the weather holds out, will also mark the beginning of my first ever knuckle rebuild. I’m going to take my time so I get it right the first time. Wish me luck!
 
With incessant taunting from friends on my indecisiveness, I finally pulled the trigger on some wheels - “Icon Rebound Series” 17x8.5, 4.75” BS, 0mm offset. @Box Rocket was kind enough to confirm that these fit (without a center cap) our chunky hubs without boring out the centers. Finally...now I can finally ditch these bald 285s and install my not quite as bald 315/70/17 Cooper STT Pros :cheers:

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This weekend, if the weather holds out, will also mark the beginning of my first ever knuckle rebuild. I’m going to take my time so I get it right the first time. Wish me luck!
Nice. I've been really happy with the wheels. The finish has been really durable. Still have a bit of rock rash on the outer ring, but its hard to avoid that if you wheel.
Here's a pic of the wheel installed on my truck without the center caps just for further confirmation that they fit our trucks without modification. I probably told you this already, but for anyone else that reads your thread and is curious, the center caps will fit if you run a 1.25" wheel spacer (which I do).
37’s and bumpstops by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Nice. I've been really happy with the wheels. The finish has been really durable. Still have a bit of rock rash on the outer ring, but its hard to avoid that if you wheel.
Here's a pic of the wheel installed on my truck without the center caps just for further confirmation that they fit our trucks without modification. I probably told you this already, but for anyone else that reads your thread and is curious, the center caps will fit if you run a 1.25" wheel spacer (which I do).
37’s and bumpstops by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Nice, can’t wait to get mine on!

In other news, no head unit install today. The shop did figure out why there’s no sound though - previous owner did some hack job trying to adapt some other Toyota stereo (that I thought was factory) into the truck. We also traced down all the wiring to the 4-channel amp that doesn’t seem factory either, but hopefully it still works. Rescheduled for 2/2 now. Replaced my door ajar sensor on the rear passenger door too, so that’s all fixed up. Attempted to fix the driver brake light, as it turns off when braking and the headlights are on. Tightened up the ground wire to the socket which kept it from turning off, but now it seems to be lit as if under braking constantly when the headlights are on. Yay for electrical projects...
 
Well, it finally happened! I got my wheels and tires on! 315/70/17 Cooper STT Pros and 17" Icon Rebounds. I'm loving the stance now! Thanks @Box Rocket for the help on choosing this setup!

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On another note, I'm over Best Buy's free installation that I got with this head unit. I went for my third appointment, and, granted the problems they've discovered are actual problems, their unwillingness to even attempt to tackle them even with additional time added to the invoice is a total turnoff. As such, I've decided to tackle this myself too.

The previous owner's hack job on the wiring harness isn't as screwed up as I thought, just very poorly executed. They also put some POS Ford speakers in the doors. However, the amp and wiring setup from there look promising. All the door speakers have good wires going to them and the RCA cables are run to the head unit area. The amp has a nice ground, and there's a power cable running to the engine bay...but for some reason they decided to cut the fkn power wire and zip tie it off to the side. WTF! Anyway, seems like a fairly easily salvageable situation, and I can't wait to finally have tunes in this thing!

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