I finally got to see, hear, and smell this in person last weekend. What a great install!
Builds Cummins R2.8 Conversion build thread (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter torfab
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Saw a different one posted on instagram that was headed to SEMA. Looked like a stock 60 other than mild lift and 31s/33s from the pic and stated they were getting 22-25mpg! Man this is a killer little engine.
KT40
SILVER Star
Wow! Talk about blast from the past! Great to see you back Rodney!
I love the idea of this engine. I just am not sure of the quality. I've read about quality issues with this engine in both workmanship and materials. Made in China. I really want an engine like this though. Think I'll wait for more data.
@torfab (or anyone else that has done a diesel swap)
couple questions about diesel conversion and exhaust systems.
my FJ62 needs new exhaust - i'm considering dropping serious coin on that beautiful stainless exhaust @OTRAMM is selling... but a couple concerns come to mind.
1 - what becomes of the cat converters on our gas burners when we do a diesel swap?
2 - which side of the engine does the exhaust come out of on the R2.8? is there a bunch of new exhaust work needed? do the cats come out? do things have to be re-routed?
spending $1500+ on stainless exhaust to mate up to my 3FE - is that going to be wasted money if I have a diesel swap in my future?
couple questions about diesel conversion and exhaust systems.
my FJ62 needs new exhaust - i'm considering dropping serious coin on that beautiful stainless exhaust @OTRAMM is selling... but a couple concerns come to mind.
1 - what becomes of the cat converters on our gas burners when we do a diesel swap?
2 - which side of the engine does the exhaust come out of on the R2.8? is there a bunch of new exhaust work needed? do the cats come out? do things have to be re-routed?
spending $1500+ on stainless exhaust to mate up to my 3FE - is that going to be wasted money if I have a diesel swap in my future?
Your cats are designed to work with the petrol combustion process and not the diesel combustion process. Modern diesels do have canisters built into the exhaust that do perform some sort of emissions function but I’m not too familiar with their operation other than to guess they help cut down on the carbon in the exhaust.
Your stainless exhaust exhaust will have to be modified to work as the 3fe exhaust is on the drivers side but the Cummins is on the passenger side. But it might just be a matter of an adapter pipe...depends on how the clearance works.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
I am guessing you would need all new exhaust if you did an engine swap. I too lust after the OTRAMM exhaust. But that is definitely signaling a commitment to the 3FE. If you are going to swap in a couple years then just get a cheaper exhaust system to hold you over. Or buy it, then sell it to me when you do the swap.
A good stainless exhaust should hold its value if you decide to sell it in a few years. I have one system I bought used for one of my past Saab’s. Drove it for a couple years and when the car went to the crusher I saved the exhaust. Exhaust looks like the day I put it on and even then it had been used for a while by the previous owner. I have a cheap stainless (OBX) exhaust on my 9-5 which I bought used off CL and even it had held up for 3 Vermont winters and is still quiet.
I am guessing you would need all new exhaust if you did an engine swap. I too lust after the OTRAMM exhaust. But that is definitely signaling a commitment to the 3FE. If you are going to swap in a couple years then just get a cheaper exhaust system to hold you over. Or buy it, then sell it to me when you do the swap.
thanks for that input - that’s kinda what i was feeling. that exhaust is lovely - but if it won’t work in the R2.8. then money is better spent in other ways.
i will say the h55 swap woke up my 3fe beyond my wildest expectations- but it does have 260,000 on it and it would be really nice to get in the 20’s mpg on road trips. someday my rig will be a diesel.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Can the H55 with the fine spline/B series input shaft work with this conversion?
I have plans in using the H55F and also just found this company located in Ohio.
ADAPTER KIT WITH MODIFIED FACTORY FLYWHEEL Fits Cummins 2.8 to Land Cruiser | QuickDrawBrand.com
ADAPTER KIT WITH MODIFIED FACTORY FLYWHEEL Fits Cummins 2.8 to Land Cruiser | QuickDrawBrand.com
Very interesting I spoke to them last week when I saw their nv4500 adapter setup and they said they didn't have one for the h55f. Either way much better than the alternate I will call them again and confirm
bagochips76
SILVER Star
@YoYoHo and @B3as7808 There are a couple of things to know about the adapters needed to mount an R2.8 to an H55.
Axis/Advance Adapters Adapter
- The Axis adapter plate along with the Advance Adapters bell housing works pretty well but it requires modifying the transmission position so that the engine will fit in the right spot in the engine bay.
- All in all with that set up you are looking at a total of 8" end to end from the front of the adapter plate (side that mounts to the engine) to the back of the bell housing (side that mounts to the transmission).
- This requires moving the transmission/t-case forward one inch and a slight lateral shift depending on the year of your truck. For some trucks this is no big deal with regards to space in the tranny hump, with others, modification is required.
- All in all a solid setup that requires some mods and fabrication
Quickdraw Adapter
- This is a one piece bell housing that bolts the trans directly to the motor and uses a GM clutch and modified factory flywheel
- As I understand from Quickdraw, this bell housing is one inch shorter than the factory bell housing, which would make it 6.5 inches long
- Using this bell housing will required you to move the transmission forward even more to allow the engine to sit where it needs to in the engine bay
Based on our own R2.8 to H55 conversions, we have determined the correct distance between the engine and the transmission to allow the trans to bolt into the factory position. That being said, we have developed an adapter plate/crank extender set up that allows the use of the factory 2F/3F bell housing, flywheel and heavy duty 2F type clutch. This set up will position the engine into the exact position that it needs to be in the engine bay. For 85-87 60 series Cruisers, there is absolutely NO driveline modification required. For early 60 series (through 84), the driveshafts will need to be modified due to the extended length of the H55 over the early H42. For 62s, a new crossmember and modified driveshaft lengths are required due to deleting the A440F auto and replacing it with an H55. For 40s, it will position the motor in the correct position in the engine bay but mods will be needed in the way of a trans crossmember and modified drive shaft lengths.
Here are a couple of photos showing the set up out of and installed in an '87 FJ60. We are currently getting our engine and frame side motor mounts manufactured so that we can offer a kit for 60 series Land Cruisers. We will be offering a kit for 40 series in the future as well.
Pricing for the kits is not totally worked out but will be in the $2000 range. It will include the Adapter Plate, Crank Extender, , flex plate, necessary hardware for installation and engine side and frame side motor mounts. We may include a clutch and engine isolators in the kit as well but we are still working on that. If those are included then the kit will be more.
Axis/Advance Adapters Adapter
- The Axis adapter plate along with the Advance Adapters bell housing works pretty well but it requires modifying the transmission position so that the engine will fit in the right spot in the engine bay.
- All in all with that set up you are looking at a total of 8" end to end from the front of the adapter plate (side that mounts to the engine) to the back of the bell housing (side that mounts to the transmission).
- This requires moving the transmission/t-case forward one inch and a slight lateral shift depending on the year of your truck. For some trucks this is no big deal with regards to space in the tranny hump, with others, modification is required.
- All in all a solid setup that requires some mods and fabrication
Quickdraw Adapter
- This is a one piece bell housing that bolts the trans directly to the motor and uses a GM clutch and modified factory flywheel
- As I understand from Quickdraw, this bell housing is one inch shorter than the factory bell housing, which would make it 6.5 inches long
- Using this bell housing will required you to move the transmission forward even more to allow the engine to sit where it needs to in the engine bay
Based on our own R2.8 to H55 conversions, we have determined the correct distance between the engine and the transmission to allow the trans to bolt into the factory position. That being said, we have developed an adapter plate/crank extender set up that allows the use of the factory 2F/3F bell housing, flywheel and heavy duty 2F type clutch. This set up will position the engine into the exact position that it needs to be in the engine bay. For 85-87 60 series Cruisers, there is absolutely NO driveline modification required. For early 60 series (through 84), the driveshafts will need to be modified due to the extended length of the H55 over the early H42. For 62s, a new crossmember and modified driveshaft lengths are required due to deleting the A440F auto and replacing it with an H55. For 40s, it will position the motor in the correct position in the engine bay but mods will be needed in the way of a trans crossmember and modified drive shaft lengths.
Here are a couple of photos showing the set up out of and installed in an '87 FJ60. We are currently getting our engine and frame side motor mounts manufactured so that we can offer a kit for 60 series Land Cruisers. We will be offering a kit for 40 series in the future as well.
Pricing for the kits is not totally worked out but will be in the $2000 range. It will include the Adapter Plate, Crank Extender, , flex plate, necessary hardware for installation and engine side and frame side motor mounts. We may include a clutch and engine isolators in the kit as well but we are still working on that. If those are included then the kit will be more.
Last edited:
@bagochips76 thanks for the info
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Wow.. @bagochips76 for the win on this one!! That will be quite the little plug-n-play kit!
- Thread starter
- #360
So we made all the pieces for a 40 series.
Radiator relocation bracket
Intercooler mount bracket
Fan shroud
Engine mounts
ECU bracket with grid heater relay integrated
Oil filter bracket
Fuel filter bracket
PS reservoir bracket
Intake filter bracket
Battery relocation bracket
We did one install and designed everything in CAD and templated it. The problem is I always like to do one more install to dial in all the details before letting them out the door. More of a QC issue. Sorry...
Radiator relocation bracket
Intercooler mount bracket
Fan shroud
Engine mounts
ECU bracket with grid heater relay integrated
Oil filter bracket
Fuel filter bracket
PS reservoir bracket
Intake filter bracket
Battery relocation bracket
We did one install and designed everything in CAD and templated it. The problem is I always like to do one more install to dial in all the details before letting them out the door. More of a QC issue. Sorry...
