Builds Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build (1 Viewer)

[Mr Cimarron]

The HF low profile trans jack is well worth the $240 I paid. I only had to raise the truck about an inch to roll in the trans under the frame. This time around I didn’t remove splitcase.
Much better than the floor jack and plywood I tried first.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I need to get one of the trans jacks for when I drop the xfer case out next...tired of doing the bench press shuffle dance of death.

This reminds me I need to update my thread with some recent updates.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I need to get one of the trans jacks for when I drop the xfer case out next...tired of doing the bench press shuffle dance of death.

This reminds me I need to update my thread with some recent updates.

I managed to get the trans out the first time with floor jack and plywood but getting it back in the engine was hours of frustration. Once proper trans jack, that adjusts angle, was used it slid right in. Only downfall is it’s one more thing in the garage which at this point is no longer housing two Land Cruisers. I need more space.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Thats the same one I have. Had to air down the tires but it works!

 

[Dirty Koala]

I managed to get the trans out the first time with floor jack and plywood but getting it back in the engine was hours of frustration. Once proper trans jack, that adjusts angle, was used it slid right in. Only downfall is it’s one more thing in the garage which at this point is no longer housing two Land Cruisers. I need more space.

That is the precise reason why I am only looking at homes in the SLC valley that have at least a 3 car garage.

 

[Dubbinchris]

That is the precise reason why I am only looking at homes in the SLC valley that have at least a 3 car garage.

The house I bought almost 2 years ago when I got divorced has a 3 car garage. Best decision I’ve made in a while!

 

[scottryana]

You and me both. lol.

That is the precise reason why I am only looking at homes in the SLC valley that have at least a 3 car garage.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Rear main fixed and sealed. Now the while I’m in there stuff. I bought a flywheel sensor for the tach since my W wire method is still giving me a dirty signal sometimes. Plan is to thread the hole to accept the 3/4”-16 sensor. I don’t trust the double nut method. My luck it will work it’s way loose and only way to get it out is tear it all apart.
There is a nice semi flat area on the adapter that looks like it will work.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Changed out all four tie rod ends last night. My front right TRE was making some racket when twisted by hand. I had a combo of OEM and 555 that I replaced about 20-30K ago. Not all at the same time. This time I went with Proforged to see if I can get them to last longer with the heavy front end. They also come with coating so no need to rattle can it like the 555. Proforged is made in Taiwan if that matters.
I had one of each of the front left at pitman arm for comparison. The OEM (left) is the smallest of the three while 555 (center) and Proforged (right) are pretty close to being the same. 555 has a slightly wider head and Proforged has a slightly bigger shaft above the threads. Both had identical height. No idea how the internals compare. The 555 that I replaced felt fine but I wanted to change them all out at once to get a better idea which ones are wearing out quicker.

 

[nuncaperdido]

Changed out all four tie rod ends last night. My front right TRE was making some racket when twisted by hand. I had a combo of OEM and 555 that I replaced about 20-30K ago. Not all at the same time. This time I went with Proforged to see if I can get them to last longer with the heavy front end. They also come with coating so no need to rattle can it like the 555. Proforged is made in Taiwan if that matters.
I had one of each of the front left at pitman arm for comparison. The OEM (left) is the smallest of the three while 555 (center) and Proforged (right) are pretty close to being the same. 555 has a slightly wider head and Proforged has a slightly bigger shaft above the threads. Both had identical height. No idea how the internals compare. The 555 that I replaced felt fine but I wanted to change them all out at once to get a better idea which ones are wearing out quicker.
View attachment 1910822

Thx for pic to See actual differences.

 

[carslutt]

really aswesome to see this project pergress... i just popped a nv4500/205 out of a dodge truck getting a full eaton 6 speed swap. the more i look at the nv4500 sitting on the floor the more i am tempted to toss it behind the 4bt next to it and see how well it all fits into a 74 fj40 frame out back..... looking forward to how your tach signal works with the relocated sensor, thats on my list to work out for a project in the shop.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

really aswesome to see this project pergress... i just popped a nv4500/205 out of a dodge truck getting a full eaton 6 speed swap. the more i look at the nv4500 sitting on the floor the more i am tempted to toss it behind the 4bt next to it and see how well it all fits into a 74 fj40 frame out back..... looking forward to how your tach signal works with the relocated sensor, thats on my list to work out for a project in the shop.

Tach is working great with the sensor on the flywheel. Much better than the W wire off alternator.

 

[carslutt]

thats awesome! i have a rig with a 4bt in it and the alt was trash for a tach so i have been on the hunt for a better option! Thanks

 

[Mr Cimarron]

thats awesome! i have a rig with a 4bt in it and the alt was trash for a tach so i have been on the hunt for a better option! Thanks

One thing to note on this. The flywheel on my 80 is different than the flywheel I have going into my 75. The flywheel teeth are deeper into the adapter on the 80 which gave me room to have the sensor pickup the teeth. On the 75 I will not be able to do the same thing due to the teeth not being as deep in the adapter.
Do you have the starter spacer on your adapter? If so then the teeth are deeper in the adapter. If not you might be in the situation I'm in on the 75. I don't want to spend money on a different flywheel so I am looking to use the balancer up front for the tach. All else fails I go back to the alternator but that's worse case.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I used a 3 pulse sensor (same as toyota) up on the crank. I modified a 24v cummins crank pulley to leave 3 protrusions for the sensor to pickup...works great.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I’m back from Roundup. The big lumbering beast did pretty good despite being a little big for some sections. The 40’s with the short wheel base seem to have an easier time. The @LandCruiserPhil sliders got some use on booth sides mainly do to my poor driving the first half of the day. Our group at no breakdowns so it was a good weekend.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Wow it’s been awhile since I added anything here. 80 will be going to Roundup again this year as it’s still the only one running. Only mod I’ve done for prep is add some “turbo” stickers.
I was surprised how well it looks. It blends in nicely. I originally got them for my 75 project but that’s so far from done I can get another set later.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Did some maintenance over the weekend getting ready for Round Up if it still happens. I pulled out a nice birds nest out of the snorkel.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Oh man it’s been almost a year since I posted. Been dealing with brake issues lately.
After deleting the ABS module I still had good brakes. At the start of winter I had to change out booster due to hard pedal on cold mornings. At the same I added in the proper non ABS master cylinder but it resulted in a very soft pedal. Today I finally got around the dealing with the issue.
I completely deleted the LSPV and all unnecessary lines and added in a manual proportional valve for the rear. I also swapped the non ABS 80 series MC for a T100 MC.
After a few short trips through the nieghborhood I got it dialed in and have good brakes again. I still need to do some gravel testing to dial it in 100%.
Proportional valve with adapters for 10mm inverted flare. The adapters that came with the valve were not used

Simple union to bypass the LSPV.

Unused lines

 

[nuncaperdido]

Oh man it’s been almost a year since I posted. Been dealing with brake issues lately.
After deleting the ABS module I still had good brakes. At the start of winter I had to change out booster due to hard pedal on cold mornings. At the same I added in the proper non ABS master cylinder but it resulted in a very soft pedal. Today I finally got around the dealing with the issue.
I completely deleted the LSPV and all unnecessary lines and added in a manual proportional valve for the rear. I also swapped the non ABS 80 series MC for a T100 MC.
After a few short trips through the nieghborhood I got it dialed in and have good brakes again. I still need to do some gravel testing to dial it in 100%.
Proportional valve with adapters for 10mm inverted flare. The adapters that came with the valve were not used
View attachment 2575859
View attachment 2575857
View attachment 2575858

Simple union to bypass the LSPV.
View attachment 2575855
Unused lines View attachment 2575856

Thx for pics of parts with their p/n tht you used. Makes copying much easier.