Build Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build
- Thread starter Mr Cimarron
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- #1,242
External. Transpo VR1200
If you want to simplify your wiring, this transpo internal voltage regulator conversion for the 120a dodge alt works very well:
forum.ih8mud.com
www.4btswaps.com
Build - Moonshine - A Build Thread
I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see. I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street...
forum.ih8mud.com
Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion
Saw this thread over on Compd. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180405 Going to do this to my Dakota alternator, getting the external regulator or pcm regulator to be consistent has been driving me crazy over the years lol. I've boiled a few batteries and don't want to...
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- #1,244
My wiring is to the point that going back to factory is harder now that I have the pigtail made for the external. I thought of getting the 24 valve internal alternator due to its a 136A but didn't know if it had the same mounting locations. I think it would but didn't want to try at the moment.If you want to simplify your wiring, this transpo internal voltage regulator conversion for the 120a dodge alt works very well:
Build - Moonshine - A Build Thread
I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see. I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street...
Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion
Saw this thread over on Compd. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180405 Going to do this to my Dakota alternator, getting the external regulator or pcm regulator to be consistent has been driving me crazy over the years lol. I've boiled a few batteries and don't want to...
Not sure what you mean by going back to factory. The factory config was always an external regulator. The internal one simplifies the connections to a single IGN+ for the regulator, and a B+ for the charging line.
Heard though, just wanted to make you aware in case you have to dig in again.
Heard though, just wanted to make you aware in case you have to dig in again.
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- #1,246
I think a few people took the internal regulator out of the stock toyota and put it in the cummins alt. The Denso/Bosch regulators are the same with a car brand specific plug.
Oh I didn't realize that. With an FZJ80 internal regulator I assume? Can't do that with 3FE or earlier alts AFAIK. The dodge alt I run has studs for the regulator connection, no plug.
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- #1,248
Yes 80 series. I may try your way on the 75 build since I stole the external regulator to put in the 80.
I forgot you had electric fans.
I have a DA fan hub. It was fabricated to position the big mechanical fan in the middle of the Landcruiser radiator. I might still have my original 97 OEM fan hub around here somewhere. I was asking since I am not sure if I would be able to use the DA fan mount with the NWAV high mount, or if I have to go to OE late model fan mount. If tha latter...where does that place the mechanical fan in relation to the radiator.
Yes, that’s how I have my alternator setup. Just take the internal regulator out of the 80 series alternator, swap it into the Cummins alternator and then do some minor trimming on the back cover so the Toyota plug fits through.
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- #1,251
I think your tensioner is on the power end, correct? For me my tensioner has always been on top so belt routing didn't change for me. All pulleys staying in the same location. Just a shorter belt and the tensioner pushes the opposite way from my previous setup.
Yes, my tensioner was over on the passenger side under the alternator and in front of the lower water inlet.
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- #1,253
It looks like it would work if the tensioner moved up top and used new belt routing.
That’s what I am hoping for. I am going to dig through my parts to see if I still have the old mount to compare against
I just found the oem fan hub mount and compared to my fabricated mount. The OE mount pushes the fan about an inch or so further to the driver side of the engine.
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- #1,256
Hmm. You may have an issue. The tensioner barely clears the hub pulley but you might be able to re-drill the mounting holes on the tensioner plate to move it over a bit.
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- #1,257
Calling the shifter console good enough. It’s not perfect but it will hold a can in an old school foam koozie while shifting.
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- #1,258
Still doing lots of work on the 80 so it can go another 10 years. Hoping this weekend I can swap in the new rebuilt P7100 injection pump and injectors. I had been running a pump from an auto which had a HP rating of 180. New pump is for a manual which is 215hp and the new injectors will match that as well. Will be adding 4K governor springs and an AFC spring. I will test all this first before I had in my old fuel place. If I had the #10 fuel plate on this pump it will put me at 330HP and 750 lbs of torque. I don't know if I want that much. I picked up another fuel plate from the local fuel injection place which the owner created that suppose to ramp up the fueling better as the RPMs rise.
Also still sealing things up as I go. Tappet cover was the latest thing I did. I will also be redoing my front seal as I must have put it on wrong because it started leaking worse than before after about 100 miles. This time I will be adding a repair sleeve to the front crank.
The gear nut for the pump took some effort to break loose. It's a non keyed taper fit so locking the engine at TDC and locking the pump is a must if you want to keep the correct timing. Super easy as the engine lock pin stays on the engine and you just push in to lock at TDC. Same with the pump. Open the cap and flip the pin around to lock.
New tappet cover gasket in. I will not be reusing the "noise dampener" that covers the the tappet cover. It seems useless and had been saturated with 25 years of oil and grime.
New rebuilt pump going in.
Also still sealing things up as I go. Tappet cover was the latest thing I did. I will also be redoing my front seal as I must have put it on wrong because it started leaking worse than before after about 100 miles. This time I will be adding a repair sleeve to the front crank.
The gear nut for the pump took some effort to break loose. It's a non keyed taper fit so locking the engine at TDC and locking the pump is a must if you want to keep the correct timing. Super easy as the engine lock pin stays on the engine and you just push in to lock at TDC. Same with the pump. Open the cap and flip the pin around to lock.
New tappet cover gasket in. I will not be reusing the "noise dampener" that covers the the tappet cover. It seems useless and had been saturated with 25 years of oil and grime.
New rebuilt pump going in.
Have you looked into AFC live? Power Driven Diesel AFC Live for 1994-1998 Dodge Cummins - https://www.stealthdiesel.com/power-driven-diesel-afc-live-for-1994-1998-dodge-cummins/?cmp_id=10567341535&adg_id=106129013684&kwd=&device=m&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1a6EBhC0ARIsAOiTkrHU_k5fepblOL4sWiFbgtlUyG_MCh6T9dhoGDtdVUzmrEI5bQUKA9YaAqmYEALw_wcB
I was debating on something like this to provide more power without all the smoke all the time.
I was debating on something like this to provide more power without all the smoke all the time.
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- #1,260
I have but talking to my local injection shop they had two employees with it but they never could dial it in. I usually drive the same 99% of the time so I doubly it’s worth the effort for me.