Builds Corax's 1UZ VVTi swap (1 Viewer)

[corax]

I just dragged an ls400 home last night for my 1st gen and am looking for as much info as possible. Thanks.

solid front axle or IFS? going to do a build thread?
I'm starting on a new idea I had for the lower engine oil pan, so the one I'm currently using (no leaks) is either going on the scrap pile or getting passed on. I think, with careful placement, one should be able to do a 1UZ in an IFS truck without a body lift using this pan (extra steering relay rod clearance)

 

[goaticus]

solid front axle or IFS? going to do a build thread?
I'm starting on a new idea I had for the lower engine oil pan, so the one I'm currently using (no leaks) is either going on the scrap pile or getting passed on. I think, with careful placement, one should be able to do a 1UZ in an IFS truck without a body lift using this pan (extra steering relay rod clearance)

Ifs. I'd love to, but my pace can be frustrating. Lol. Might be interested in the pan if I needed. I've seen where people have modified the steering rod, too.

 

[eimkeith]

That sounds amazing on the start up video! I’m not far from you here in the PNW. Want to drop by and do this to mine as well?

posting here to find this later.

 

[eimkeith]

Subbed. Really good information in this thread. Thank you @corax for putting together the information you've gathered. I'm just beginning the process of swapping a 1uz into my son's 1985 pickup.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

22RE is out.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

LS400 1UZ will be going in with a A340F from a 2003 4Runner. (LS400 A340E is still connected to the motor in the photo)
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Adam, did you happen to weigh the two engines?

 

[corax]

Adam, did you happen to weigh the two engines?

some numbers I found and corroborated across multiple reliable sources:

22RE, 2.4L, 112 HP@4600, 142 lb·ft@3400, iron block/alum head, weighs ~320 lbs
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 HP@6000, 188 lb·ft@3600, iron block/alum head, weighs ~460 lbs
1UZ non-VVTi (89-97), 256 HP@5400, 260 lb·ft@4400, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~360 lbs
1UZ VVTi (98-99), 300hp@6000, 310 lb·ft@4000, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~360 lbs
2UZ VVTi, 230-270HP@4800, 315 lb·ft@3400, iron block/alum heads, weighs ~540 lbs
3UZ VVTi, 300HP@5600, 325 lb·ft@3400, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~385 lbs

 

[eimkeith]

some numbers I found and corroborated across multiple reliable sources:

22RE, 2.4L, 112 HP@4600, 142 lb·ft@3400, iron block/alum head, weighs ~320 lbs
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 HP@6000, 188 lb·ft@3600, iron block/alum head, weighs ~460 lbs
1UZ non-VVTi (89-97), 256 HP@5400, 260 lb·ft@4400, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~360 lbs
1UZ VVTi (98-99), 300hp@6000, 310 lb·ft@4000, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~360 lbs
2UZ VVTi, 230-270HP@4800, 315 lb·ft@3400, iron block/alum heads, weighs ~540 lbs
3UZ VVTi, 300HP@5600, 325 lb·ft@3400, alum block/alum heads, weighs ~385 lbs

I just picked up a 2UZ last week, weighs 582 with the torque converter, but without the alternator. Hoping to find some first-hand weights, if possible.

see link:

Toyota-4Runner.org

The Largest 4Runner Community in the World

www.toyota-4runner.org

I have a 1990 Lexus 400 coming in from auction to donate its 1UZ; I'll get a good weight on that when I pull it, also. (thinking about that one for the '93 minitruck)

 

[Box Rocket]

Adam, did you happen to weigh the two engines?

Sorry I didn't weigh them.

 

[corax]

Sneak peak of my new oil pan in progress.
Chop and weld of a stock LS400 oil pan - making sure every piece has tight fitment to the one next to it is a pain, chasing tiny pinhole leaks is tedious, and I still have to make a new oil pickup/strainer. It's screwed down to a 1" piece of plywood to minimize warpage - once it's screwed down, it doesn't get removed until I'm done welding. I widened each side on the front 1.5 inches and dropped the front part 2 inches, when I filled it up, I got between 6.5 and 7 quarts capacity (up from the 5.125 qts of the stock pan).
To find pinholes, fill the pan with water, blow compressed air at the welds from the the outside, follow the air bubbles, grind, re-weld. Porosity can also be fixed with Green Loctite 290 (specified OK to 0.1mm holes, this is what I'm going to do to all the seams on the inside just for good measure after I get it sealed via MIG and before it gets powdercoated) - heat the area to 85 degrees Celsius, dab some green Loctite on the porous area/pinhole, allow to cool (Loctite will wick into the porosity and harden)

 

[Box Rocket]

Nice work on the oil pan. Can you give me some information on the oil Pan options that work? I’m hearing conflicting things. Some say a SC400 pan works, others say it won’t. I’m fairly certain the stock LS400 pan on my motor isn’t going to work.
There are some aftermarket rear sump pans out there but they can be expensive. Any input you have is appreciated.

 

[corax]

Nice work on the oil pan. Can you give me some information on the oil Pan options that work? I’m hearing conflicting things. Some say a SC400 pan works, others say it won’t. I’m fairly certain the stock LS400 pan on my motor isn’t going to work.
There are some aftermarket rear sump pans out there but they can be expensive. Any input you have is appreciated.

Thanks. My 'runner is IFS, so I'm not 100% on the answer, but from what I've read, an SC430 mid sump oil pan is what you're looking for. LS400 and GS400 are both front sump oil pans. I'm 99.9% sure that a 2UZ oil pan will bolt up to a 1UZ or 3UZ engine, so that might be another option worth researching (those are also 7qt. oil pans). Either way, when you get an oil pan, don't forget to get the matching oil pickup and baffle plate (bolts to the aluminum upper pan to help keep oil in the steel lower pan from sloshing up into the crank case)

 

[Box Rocket]

Thanks. My 'runner is IFS, so I'm not 100% on the answer, but from what I've read, an SC430 mid sump oil pan is what you're looking for. LS400 and GS400 are both front sump oil pans. I'm 99.9% sure that a 2UZ oil pan will bolt up to a 1UZ or 3UZ engine, so that might be another option worth researching (those are also 7qt. oil pans). Either way, when you get an oil pan, don't forget to get the matching oil pickup and baffle plate (bolts to the aluminum upper pan to help keep oil in the steel lower pan from sloshing up into the crank case)

Thanks

 

[corax]

Almost got my hands on a free 3UZ a few weeks ago which got me thinking.
If I had to do it over, I might go with a 3UZ given that JDM engine prices for a 1UZ or 3UZ are about the same. It's the same exact dimensions and offers more torque with the same HP. An added benefit is that it uses AFS exhaust sensors (aka, wideband) instead of oxygen sensors for better fuel economy and more accurate fueling over a wider range. In stock form, it requires an electric accelerator pedal (no cable to run), but I've heard from a certain Kiwi that the cable actuated electronic throttle body from a 1UZ VVTi will work with a 3UZ ECU (no electric accelerator pedal required). The 3UZ ECU can also be remapped for a small boost in power (~20hp from the dyno sheets I've seen) and throttle response (throttle response controlled by wiring in a "SPORT/ECO" switch, but the non-electronically-dampened response seems pretty touchy).

On the flip side, for a better and more powerful ECU, I saw Yuri Baranov and Kelvin Glover were chatting about using a 3UZ ECU to control a 1UZ VVTi for the same benefits, it could also use the 1UZ throttle body (throttle cable type electronic) but would need to change the ignition coils to the later style.

Too many words, not enough pics . . . so here's one from The Gorge where I was hunting stage rally cars

 

[YotaFun]

Almost got my hands on a free 3UZ a few weeks ago which got me thinking.
If I had to do it over, I might go with a 3UZ given that JDM engine prices for a 1UZ or 3UZ are about the same. It's the same exact dimensions and offers more torque with the same HP. An added benefit is that it uses AFS exhaust sensors (aka, wideband) instead of oxygen sensors for better fuel economy and more accurate fueling over a wider range. In stock form, it requires an electric accelerator pedal (no cable to run), but I've heard from a certain Kiwi that the cable actuated electronic throttle body from a 1UZ VVTi will work with a 3UZ ECU (no electric accelerator pedal required). The 3UZ ECU can also be remapped for a small boost in power (~20hp from the dyno sheets I've seen) and throttle response (throttle response controlled by wiring in a "SPORT/ECO" switch, but the non-electronically-dampened response seems pretty touchy).

On the flip side, for a better and more powerful ECU, I saw Yuri Baranov and Kelvin Glover were chatting about using a 3UZ ECU to control a 1UZ VVTi for the same benefits, it could also use the 1UZ throttle body (throttle cable type electronic) but would need to change the ignition coils to the later style.

Too many words, not enough pics . . . so here's one from The Gorge where I was hunting stage rally carsView attachment 2697537

Hmm 3UZ... That could be fun in a 3rd gen

 

[liveoak]

Since you plan on keeping the A/C, you'll need that clearance for a really good electric fan up front. I highly recommend something from an actual production car, most of the universal aftermarket fans are junk (and lie about how much air they move) compared to something like an OEM Ford Taurus fan (2,000 CFM on low, 4,500 CFM on high speed). I'm planning on swapping out my current 3" thick universal Griffin radiator this summer for a slightly thinner Jeep V8 conversion radiator so I can use a slightly thicker Ford Taurus fan. Another good OEM fan which is a bit thinner is the dual fan from a Ford Contour, either way, a shroud which covers the radiator means more air pulled through a larger area of the radiator.

I would also look into a quality electric fan control unit like these they keep the fan at the needed speed for the temp you select instead of full blast all of the time. the controller also has an ac input that keeps the fan on at least 50% speed while the ac is in use. constant temperature controllers - http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm

 

[corax]

Installed a new radiator this weekend. The 19"x 15" universal Griffin was fine for the truck by itself, but it lacked a bit while towing in hot weather or low speed high load scenarios. Also, at 3" thick, it reduced the space available for a good fan. After A LOT of searching online for radiator dimensions, I settled on Champion AE8101 Wrangler V8 conversion radiator. The Griffin radiator had a core surface area of 294 sq in and left a big gap between the radiator and the front cross member. The new Champion radiator is 370 sq in and covers the entire area between the radiator support and the cross member. Note that the regular Champion 8101 radiator is 3 rows of 0.63" tubes while the AE8101 is 2 rows of 1" tubes, I went with 2 rows of 1" tubes which gives more volume inside the radiator + more tube surface area all in the same radiator size.

with the 1" body lift on my 'runner, the top of the bottom tank is even with the top of the front cross member and the bottom of the tank is even with the bottom of the cross member. It's a really nice fit between the frame rails though I did have to trim a bit of excess length off the front idler arm bolt.

the top of the radiator support was trimmed back several years ago which helped me push the radiator about an inch forward than normal - hood still closes fine and doesn't touch the radiator

this is looking down the passenger side mount. Years ago, I trimmed the radiator opening wider to fit some other radiator that I had at the time. I kinda feel like if I hadn't trimmed the metal away, this radiator may have bolted to the stock sheet metal just fine I had to make filler plates to close the gap, can't remember how big the original opening was). The large side mounts on the radiator were trimmed a bit with a jigsaw and metal cutting blade to clear the steering gear and winch wiring.

For now, I remounted the 14" fan I was using before, but I plan to go with a 16" fan in the very near future. I really wanted to use the Derale 2 speed H.O. fan which is a very thin 2 5/8" all the way across with 2400 CFM on high speed, but I'm about 1/4" shy of it fitting no matter what I do - a reminder that every fraction of an inch counts and keep that engine back as far as possible when making mounts. So instead I'm looking at the Maradyne M162k if the motor is narrow enough to fit in the space between pulleys on the engine.

 

[corax]

for anyone chasing every fraction of an inch at the front of the engine to fit a better electric fan . . .
3UZ (SC430 specifically) fan bracket on the top, original JDM 1UZ VVTi bracket on the bottom

original JDM 1UZ VVTi fan bracket with bolt-on pulley

3UZ fan bracket with pressed on pulley

 

[mongoose2231]

this thread is awesome!

 

[jamarquardt22]

Yup fractions count. I could of used this.

 

[corax]

also got the new radiator fan on. Decided to go with a Maradyne M166k. <- click link for specs and dimensions
I really wanted to use one of the Derale HO Single fans because they're 2 speed and rated well, but just couldn't find the space.
It has a slightly less powerful 160W motor than their other 16" fan, but it's also a bit thinner and will still cover more of the radiator than the previous fan did. I won't really know how well it works for a few months when the weather changes.
It's a tight fit, but I have about a half an inch between the fan and the pulleys - here's hoping the engine doesn't shift enough to cause contact.

for the first set of mounting brackets, I flipped the universal feet around in the fan slots and did simple tabs with a brace between them so they wouldn't rotate and let the fan "sag" down to a new location. Tabs are bolted to preexisting nut-serts on the side of the radiator

for the other side, I had a better idea. The mounting slots in the universal fan are just wide enough to fit a plain bolt with a 10mm head (some light filing/grinding to the bolt head may be necessary to make them fit better), With the bolts in place, I lightly bent a piece of 1/2" wide flat stock and drilled holes for the bolts. With the fan in place and another piece of flat stock bolted to the radiator mount, I welded it together. This mount feels quite a bit sturdier and is lower profile than what I did on the other side. Some care must to taken to make sure the mount doesn't push the fan into the radiator too hard when bolted down, or let it lift off the radiator either.
(wiring is in the way a bit to see clearly)

 

[goaticus]

Has ayone tried going the other direction? By this I mean, instead of huge 27 core radiators with as big a fan will still fit after the fact, going with a thinner, high flow single core radiator and more fan... maybe even a fan shroud with it? LOL