I think you really need to have a core that is capable of a certain amount of heat transfer, Hence the more core area and tighter fins per inch. A smaller area core no matter how much air you throw at it will only transfer so much heat.
Builds Corax's 1UZ VVTi swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter corax
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- #102
That's part of the reason why I went from a 3" thick 3 core to a 2.5" thick 2 core radiator, though the new radiator does have more surface area than the old one which is a step up anyway (294 sq in on the Griffin vs. 370 sq in on the new Champion). The slightly thinner radiator allowed me to fit a fan which covers more real estate, so more of the coolant flowing through the radiator is cooled by the fan.
Kinda. On a very simple level, it's a balancing act between radiator and fan. Tiny radiator and huge fan will be just as bad as a huge radiator with a tiny fan.
There's a lot of bad info out there when it comes to radiators and cooling.
If you have some time, this is a good read and fairly accurate:
Billa Vista Cooling Bible
I have read that
I remember Ole billa Vista from years ago on pirate. But my point was this. Any way you cut it if your core can not physically transfer the amount of BTU needed for the amount of horsepower/heat you develop you can never properly cool a engine.- Thread starter
- #104
someone asked in a private message about the Ford 9" I built - how it's holding up 2 years later and if I'd do anything different - so I thought I'd share the reply
The Ford 9 is still doing great. 35 spline is the way to go, enough beef without being overkill (almost as strong as a Dana60 but without the weight)
Had a small seep from the Toyota pattern pinion flange, polishing the seal area fixed that.
I went with the Dutchman Set 20 taper greased bearings (uses an inner axle seal to keep the gear lube out of the bearing), and one side started seeping slightly after a 5 hour 80mph trip in high heat last year. 30 minutes and new inner seal a few weeks later and that issue hasn't come up again.
If I had to do over . . . I'd skip building a used housing, everything else, I'm happy with.
- I got an "early big bearing" housing, would have been a bit easier to do the disc conversion using a "late big bearing" housing (pattern matches, no elongating holes in the Exploder parts).
- I would buy a Strange Engineering housing (link), but that Dutchman housing package looks like a good deal (+ they can make sure everything works together, don't forget to have them machine a access hole in the flange if you're doing the Exploder discs)
- With the Strange housing (1/4" thick tubes) I wouldn't have had a second thought about needing an axle brace. Even being careful and making tiny stitch welds/waiting for each weld to cool, the housing arched back and now I have about 1/4 degree toe out (not ideal, but not terrible for the bearings). This makes the rear end squirrely if I'm on-power through a turn (the outside spring arch flattening/pushing the axle back under weight transfer steers the axle to the outside of the turn to begin with). I tried heat shrinking the forward face of the tube to pull it back, but only got very limited results
The Ford 9 is still doing great. 35 spline is the way to go, enough beef without being overkill (almost as strong as a Dana60 but without the weight)
Had a small seep from the Toyota pattern pinion flange, polishing the seal area fixed that.
I went with the Dutchman Set 20 taper greased bearings (uses an inner axle seal to keep the gear lube out of the bearing), and one side started seeping slightly after a 5 hour 80mph trip in high heat last year. 30 minutes and new inner seal a few weeks later and that issue hasn't come up again.
If I had to do over . . . I'd skip building a used housing, everything else, I'm happy with.
- I got an "early big bearing" housing, would have been a bit easier to do the disc conversion using a "late big bearing" housing (pattern matches, no elongating holes in the Exploder parts).
- I would buy a Strange Engineering housing (link), but that Dutchman housing package looks like a good deal (+ they can make sure everything works together, don't forget to have them machine a access hole in the flange if you're doing the Exploder discs)
- With the Strange housing (1/4" thick tubes) I wouldn't have had a second thought about needing an axle brace. Even being careful and making tiny stitch welds/waiting for each weld to cool, the housing arched back and now I have about 1/4 degree toe out (not ideal, but not terrible for the bearings). This makes the rear end squirrely if I'm on-power through a turn (the outside spring arch flattening/pushing the axle back under weight transfer steers the axle to the outside of the turn to begin with). I tried heat shrinking the forward face of the tube to pull it back, but only got very limited results
- Thread starter
- #105
4 1/2 years ago, I used 22RE rubber mounts (since they're very common and were in use for decades) on my own brackets. After about 6 months, they relaxed enough to let the oil pan contact the steering relay rod (center link), so I built a new oil pan to clear that (it was already close when I made the brackets originally). Over time, they relaxed a bit more to where other clearances are getting tight.
So, this was the problem. After 4.5 years, the rubber mount sagged and the engine dropped ~3/4 inch.
With a 2x4 laid across the top of the fenders and over the front of the engine (tightest point between engine and hood), I have ~ 7/8" - 1" of space between the board and the engine cover with the sagging rubber mounts.
So I made new mounts to lift the engine back up to slightly higher than where it was when I originally swapped it. After I paint and install the new mounts, the engine cover should touch and just barely lift the board. Because the hood arches up in the middle, I'll still have enough room to close the hood with no problem (already verified). Barnes 4WD DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole and Barnes 4WD Full Circle Bushing Mount Pair with some 1/4" plate make up the frame side mount, the rest was just making a 1/4" thick plate for the engine side and 1/8" to take up the space between. (Pic is before it was fully welded and braces were added to the vertical pieces)
So, this was the problem. After 4.5 years, the rubber mount sagged and the engine dropped ~3/4 inch.
With a 2x4 laid across the top of the fenders and over the front of the engine (tightest point between engine and hood), I have ~ 7/8" - 1" of space between the board and the engine cover with the sagging rubber mounts.
So I made new mounts to lift the engine back up to slightly higher than where it was when I originally swapped it. After I paint and install the new mounts, the engine cover should touch and just barely lift the board. Because the hood arches up in the middle, I'll still have enough room to close the hood with no problem (already verified). Barnes 4WD DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole and Barnes 4WD Full Circle Bushing Mount Pair with some 1/4" plate make up the frame side mount, the rest was just making a 1/4" thick plate for the engine side and 1/8" to take up the space between. (Pic is before it was fully welded and braces were added to the vertical pieces)
- Thread starter
- #106
Final product all painted and installed. That's 1/4" plate against the engine to reduce warp from welding and stay flat & 1/4" plate where it bolts to the stock mount on the frame for the same reason. All the rest of the plate is 1/8" and gusseted. Note the slight notch I had to make to clear the coolant block-off plate (only necessary on the passenger side).
Driving around, there is a very slight amount of vibration, but it's barely noticeable and easy to ignore.
I do get some vibration above idle in neutral - - at ~2,000 rpm or above, it's enough to make something rattle in the dash, but it's fine at high idle on a cold start
Driving around, there is a very slight amount of vibration, but it's barely noticeable and easy to ignore.
I do get some vibration above idle in neutral - - at ~2,000 rpm or above, it's enough to make something rattle in the dash, but it's fine at high idle on a cold start
Stumbled on this while googling for info on 1UZ and fuel pressure sensors - great thread. I am nearing the finish line (but stalled for the last couple of years after a move) a non-vvti into an FJ55 - lots of similar challenges. For anyone else reading, check out youtube cartunesNZ for all things 1UZ, also, re the oil pan, if you can find one, I think its the sc400's that have a rear sump - swaps easily and gives clearances (in my thread somewhere), Cheers!
