Cooling issues with CSF 2517 - what temp does your rig's A/C shut off? (1 Viewer)

[rbdave]

Hi, just replaced my stock radiator in my 1996 series 80, 135,350 miles. I took the rig on a common trip I go on, and I was overheating pretty rapidly on elevation climbs.

On the road, or off, after about 3000 feet of climbing, even with limiting rpm's to under 2000, I would still hit 220 on the scan gauge when the A/C would turn off, and overheat at about 237 when I pulled over to idle to cool down.

Even with the A/C off, it will overheat after about 3-4000 of climbing at normal grades. No leaks, no fluid loss, except from the overflow tank.

Any advice someone can throw my way?

Thanks, !!

 

[flintknapper]

Two questions:

1. What happened to your stock radiator that you needed/wanted to replace it?
2. What is the condition of your fan clutch?

A/C should cut out something between 220-226°F. and kick back in at 216-217°F.

 

[CharlesHS]

As Flintknapper posted.... What is the condition of your thermostatic fan clutch ?
If the system is not staying pressurized (radiator cap); the cooling system will overheat...
Why did you replace the original radiator? Was it leaking OR was the coolant RUSTY looking ?
Did you chemically flush the cooling system prior to installing the radiator and fresh coolant ?

 

[Tools R Us]

...
On the road, or off, after about 3000 feet of climbing, even with limiting rpm's to under 2000, I would still hit 220 on the scan gauge when the A/C would turn off, and overheat at about 237 when I pulled over to idle to cool down.
...

On a properly functioning cooling system, when loaded, should run cooler at higher RPM.

Clutch tune is critical, especially when trying to make a more airflow restrictive copper radiator work. The whole cooling system needs to be right, but in the end, aluminum radiators are more efficient, cool significantly better.

The FSM lists A/C cut at 226F, but have seen some that cut at ~218F.

 

[Qball]

First: I use to have the full copper radiator, they are definitely more durable and repairable. However once I switched to the koyo aluminum radiator my running temp on average dropped 10 degress. Even in 100+ degree weather and climbing with AC I still rarely see anything close to 200. Only time I've seen my temp go pass 200 is really slow wheeling in hot weather.

Second: like many have already said your fan clutch is done for. Get a blue hub fan clutch and mod it per the instruction on MUD or get it all tuned from wits'end.
80 Series 1FZ-FE Modified OEM Toyota Blue Fan Clutch

Had I know about the landtank modded fan clutch I would of bought that instead of mucking around with my fan clutch for days on end. The only silver lining to that is I can get one in and out in less than 10 minutes now.

 

[rbdave]

Hi guys, thanks for the help. Had cracking on the plastic top of the original, was NOT overheating. Yes on the chem flush, did test water pump, really covered all the bases. Fan Clutch does appear to be working properly, and the thought from Tools..... the mechanic that put it in did state that he was able to get the fan in tight in the shroud, whatever that means. It seems to me a little more gap around would be more efficient?

When I pump up my air mattress with my compressor, I hold the nozzle out about 5 inches, and the venturi effect adds 4 times the air than if it all ran thru the nozzle. Dont know if that translates to radiators or not ? Just thinking.....

Also, used Toyota Red as coolant.

Thanks for the ideas, love to get to the bottom of this.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Hi, just replaced my stock radiator in my 1996 series 80, 135,350 miles. I took the rig on a common trip I go on, and I was overheating pretty rapidly on elevation climbs.

On the road, or off, after about 3000 feet of climbing, even with limiting rpm's to under 2000, I would still hit 220 on the scan gauge when the A/C would turn off, and overheat at about 237 when I pulled over to idle to cool down.

Even with the A/C off, it will overheat after about 3-4000 of climbing at normal grades. No leaks, no fluid loss, except from the overflow tank.

Any advice someone can throw my way?

Thanks, !!

Sounds like my recent experience with my CSF.

Sorry to say this but I think CSF either had a bad batch or they just can't cool these trucks properly. I've done literally all the coolings system tests I can and have come to the conclusions that the water flow through the radiator is insufficient. Quick question, how hard is your return hose while running?

You might want to wade through this

Overheating help and fan clutch advice

 

[RFB]

On a properly functioning cooling system, when loaded, should run cooler at higher RPM.

Clutch tune is critical, especially when trying to make a more airflow restrictive copper radiator work. The whole cooling system needs to be right, but in the end, aluminum radiators are more efficient, cool significantly better.

The FSM lists A/C cut at 226F, but have seen some that cut at ~218F.

who do you suggest fro aluminium rads? Ive seen you post this same advice twice today? oh and the seal tool you made thru witsend is the shiite.

 

[Rifleman]

Another important cooling system item that's often over looked, is the condition of the foam seals between the radiator core support, fan shroud, and the bottom of the radiator. If the foam seals are missing, or are in poor condition, that will allow some of your incoming air to completely bypass the radiator core.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Another important cooling system item that's often over looked, is the condition of the foam seals between the radiator core support, fan shroud, and the bottom of the radiator. If the foam seals are missing, or are in poor condition, that will allow some of your incoming air to completely bypass the radiator core.

While this is very true I think it will prove to be a non-issue. Mine is fully foamed and exhibiting the exact same symptoms.

 

[graham5david]

who do you suggest fro aluminium rads? Ive seen you post this same advice twice today? oh and the seal tool you made thru witsend is the shiite.

2nd this .Please point me in the direction of a good aluminum radiator .

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I just did mine with CSF on my 96 with stock blue fan clutch. In TX. 100+ deg Days. No issues. Stays glued to the middle of the idiot gauge.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

I just did mine with CSF on my 96 with stock blue fan clutch. In TX. 100+ deg Days. No issues. Stays glued to the middle of the idiot gauge.

I've heard good things, which is why I bought mine... But here we are. This is what makes me wonder if it was just a bad batch

 

[inkpot]

I just did mine with CSF on my 96 with stock blue fan clutch. In TX. 100+ deg Days. No issues. Stays glued to the middle of the idiot gauge.

The factory gauge in the dash really tells you almost nothing, until it is too late anyway! If you really want to know what is going on, then buy an OBD II reader like Ultra Gauge, Scan Gauge II, or one of the newer Bluetooth setups. Then you know exacty how hot you are. You may be surprised.

 

[flintknapper]

I've heard good things, which is why I bought mine... But here we are. This is what makes me wonder if it was just a bad batch

^^^^^^

Quite possible. It certainly has me scratching my head, like @ceylonfj40nut my CSF 2517 (installed for over 4 years now) has been plenty adequate for the temps I see. Texas summers (95-105° F. ambient). We are on opposite sides of the State (humid where I live, dry where he is), but similar temps.

I DO have a Scangauge and monitor my coolant temps. I just don't have the issues that some others have had. But I don't live at high altitude or have to deal with extended ventures up steep hills/mountains. Maybe that's the difference, I don't know.

I can only truthfully report what my experiences have been. I've been well satisfied with the CSF in my vehicle.

I have a modified blue hub fan clutch (48ml 20K silicone) and an Aux pusher fan for my A/C but I never had any overheating troubles even before making those changes.

 

[clx16]

Replaced my leaking Stock rad with csf, non-tuned blue hub fan clutch from Amazon, new water pump, thermostat ,flushed system, new hoses, 50/50 mix of Toyota red and new Mr t cap. My system likes to sit around the 182 f area now. Was about an 11 degree drop. Do you feel confident you got all the air out? I think i burped mine from the firewall heater hose.

 

[Bambusiero]

My AC cutoff switch reliably cuts out at 218-220F and turns back on at 216 (according to OBD2 sensor).
As Kevin mentions, the FSM specs this to be 226 cutoff, with hysteresis turn on delayed until 216.
No tolerance is given.
This is just enough to be a problem, as I can count on hitting 222 after some time driving at speed on basically flat ground, with just a slight rise. Have not tried a climb recently.

 

[flintknapper]

My AC cutoff switch reliably cuts out at 218-220F and turns back on at 216 (according to OBD2 sensor).
As Kevin mentions, the FSM specs this to be 226 cutoff, with hysteresis turn on delayed until 216.
No tolerance is given.
This is just enough to be a problem, as I can count on hitting 222 after some time driving at speed on basically flat ground, with just a slight rise. Have not tried a climb recently.

^^^^^^
Exact numbers mine would cut out at....when I had my OEM radiator in place (before the plastic top split). After installing the CSF 2517 I've never gotten anywhere close to that...even pulling a heavy trailer uphill.

Level highway and small hills, A/C on, Summertime heat....I will be 188-192° F. (depending upon speed)

Pulling a trailer uphill....I've seen 208° F. but it recovers quickly once I've made the peak. Transmission temp takes a bit longer to come back down, but coolant temps recover within minutes on my rig.

 

[greentruck]

While this is very true I think it will prove to be a non-issue. Mine is fully foamed and exhibiting the exact same symptoms.

I slopped on the foam a bit when I did mine (it was a Koyo, not CSF, though) and then had to redo it. It did make a difference, incremental to be sure, but every little bit of help is needed on these cooling systems. I'd be sure to do you best to get it in place and sealed as close to the factory arrangement as possible.

That said, I cobbled together mine from standard household foam weatherstrip in various sizes. I'm not sure it's quite the quality and closed cell type the OEM was. Maybe Wit's End should do a kit with good stuff to help with a radiator R&R?

 

[inkpot]

2nd this .Please point me in the direction of a good aluminum radiator .

My AC cutoff switch reliably cuts out at 218-220F and turns back on at 216 (according to OBD2 sensor).
As Kevin mentions, the FSM specs this to be 226 cutoff, with hysteresis turn on delayed until 216.
No tolerance is given.
This is just enough to be a problem, as I can count on hitting 222 after some time driving at speed on basically flat ground, with just a slight rise. Have not tried a climb recently.

So, what radiator and what fan clutch?