Cooling issues with CSF 2517 - what temp does your rig's A/C shut off? (1 Viewer)

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So, what radiator and what fan clutch?

I have the CSF 2517 all metal radiator.
Have been thinking strongly about buying a TYC and doing an A/B comparison, now that it's nice and "summery" all the time.
(Plus a new A/C cutoff switch)
Even a few degrees improvement would be worthwhile.
I know for sure that my CSF has good water flow. I think it works as well as that type can.
Radiator Flow Rate Test

My fan clutch is the Eaton type, with Tools R Us custom 15000 Cp silicon juice, and is working properly as far as I can tell.
(see that same link above)

I'm using a "standard" cooling system performance test drive, with a couple of trips for comparison.
North through Mesa on Country Club, 0-45mph city traffic to get warmed up, continuing north on the Beeline Hwy to Shea Blvd at 70mph.
There's parking/fastfood at Shea so you can pull in and watch the cooldown behavior.
Mine takes about 2-3 minute delay before temperature starts dropping steadily down to 193F (from 222) in 10 minutes (idling w A/C on).
So far, a trip at 103 and 108 ambient showed the same temperature behavior. (engine undershield was NOT installed for those)
 
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I'm using a "standard" cooling system performance test drive, with a couple of trips for comparison.
North through Mesa on Country Club, 0-45mph city traffic to get warmed up, continuing north on the Beeline Hwy to Shea Blvd at 70mph.
There's parking/fastfood at Shea so you can pull in and watch the cooldown behavior.
Mine takes about 2-3 minute delay before temperature starts dropping steadily down to 193F (from 222) in 10 minutes (idling w A/C on).
So far, a trip at 103 and 108 ambient showed the same temperature behavior. (engine undershield was NOT installed for those)

I made that trip a week ago Wednesday, straight through to Sugarloaf/Sycamore. I was late for the date, so other than breathing it slightly for the cop in the median near the river, 75-80mph, the highest temp I saw was 194F. Guessing mine takes more throttle, power to get this done, more lift, 37" tires/4.10 gears, etc. The true test is continuing on to Ord, that climb has overheated a bunch of rigs, but if you are seeing 222F at Shea, not recammended.
 
who do you suggest fro aluminium rads? Ive seen you post this same advice twice today? oh and the seal tool you made thru witsend is the shiite.

...TYC (slight performance advantage) or Koyo (slight quality advantage) is what most successfully run.

TYC Radiator on Amazon

Koyo radiator on Amazon

If you must have all-aluminum, you might try-
Some untested all-aluminum 3-row radiator on Amazon- currently unavailable.

There's a rumor that the last one also comes in a 4-core version, but I can't find it.
 
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I made that trip a week ago Wednesday, straight through to Sugarloaf/Sycamore. I was late for the date, so other than breathing it slightly for the cop in the median near the river, 75-80mph, the highest temp I saw was 194F. Guessing mine takes more throttle, power to get this done, more lift, 37" tires/4.10 gears, etc. The true test is continuing on to Ord, that climb has overheated a bunch of rigs, but if you are seeing 222F at Shea, not recammended.

Well, that's about as good a one-to-one comparison as you could possibly hope for.
I mean - same road, same season, same car company, same year model... same color even!

Of course, all it really proves is - my pink panties :princess: are hotter that your pink panties :princess: :flipoff2:

So,, you have been dinking with this for over 2yrs? :confused: ... Put a radiator in it already, it's not that hard,, really! :hillbilly:

SHEESH! Why do you think I bought THIS damn radiator??!! The last one EXPLODED - twice. I was traumatized!
Like I'm supposed to change radiators like I change my underwear - every month? Even when they're still perfectly good?
 
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Well, that's about as good a one-to-one comparison as you could possibly hope for.
I mean - same road, same season, same car company, same year model... same color even!

Of course, all it really proves is - my pink panties :princess: are hotter that your pink panties :princess: :flipoff2:



SHEESH! Why do you think I bought THIS damn radiator??!! The last one EXPLODED - twice. I was traumatized!
Like I'm supposed to change radiators like I change my underwear - every month?


Try the all aluminum radiator then! I know someone with a newish koyo separates the top tank, granted he was going faster than most would.
 
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Like I'm supposed to change radiators like I change my underwear - every month? Even when they're still perfectly good?

So, perfectly good = 222F on a minor climb? Keep dinking around, maybe will get to do a head gasket with it? So you change underwear every month,,, that is prodigal! :hillbilly:
 
Just replaced a 3 year old Koyo 1918 with a TYC 1918. I anticipate pulling some heavy loads this summer and I had a chance to swap in the TYC for some comparisons. Koyo is clean and well maintained, so it should be performing well for what it is. The TYC has a slightly deeper core and the vertical tubes are noticeably longer, so there re obvious physical reasons that it MAY perform better that the Koyo. Thursday-Friday should be 110+ so good resting weather.
 
Here is what I run. Free Shipping. RADIATOR 1917

Lifetime warranty supposedly and I am sure I will get to test that one of these days. Have one into its fourth year right now and a second about a year old. Nice thing is, there are lots of cities with locations that have these so if there is an issue you can walk in and see some one.

General rules to live by are, modded blue-hub clutch, OEM thermostat, OEM belts, either pure Toyota red or original old school green coolant mixed with distilled water after a proper flush and good hoses and a good new radiator with foam around the edges. Many original radiators are simply too old to cool properly now. I have done a number of LC's with this in mind and they always end up behaving as they should regardless of how hot ambient temps are.
 
I just installed a tyc radiator in my 97 along with new thermostat and hoses. I already have a modified blue hub but my 21 year old radiator was not performing the way I would like. So far the highest temp I've seen is 194 compared to spikes of 220 with my old radiator. I had to return the first one Amazon shipped because it had a bend on the core (which I still have because UPS shipped it back to me, so if anyone wants a free slightly bent radiator in the Salt Lake area it's yours). I'm very happy with the results.
 
I just installed a tyc radiator in my 97 along with new thermostat and hoses. I already have a modified blue hub but my 21 year old radiator was not performing the way I would like. So far the highest temp I've seen is 194 compared to spikes of 220 with my old radiator. I had to return the first one Amazon shipped because it had a bend on the core (which I still have because UPS shipped it back to me, so if anyone wants a free slightly bent radiator in the Salt Lake area it's yours). I'm very happy with the results.
Hmm. Where in the valley?
 
FYI - UPDATE. Many thanks to @brianh699 for getting that radiator to me. Not sure whats special about mine but the damage in his rad that he passed on to me just happens to have been damaged in the perfect way to allow it to fit without modification. I ordered a KOYO and an APDI that didn't fit because the 2 front holes were 1/4 inch to wide center to center. The bent one fit perfectly (30 inches 1/4 center to center). Weird. Anyway. here are some pictures and video of the results

cj1s8iim6uhedujy5b4p.jpg


As you can see there is something funky on the inlet side. All the paint had be heated away. Yes its behind the trans cooler but there is certainly something more than a little extra heat. Methinks my CSF had a block there, despite a flush. Factory damage? Who knows.

ev8njexif0uuaqxzx3ee.jpg

CSF exactly 30 and 1/4 center to center. Which fits perfectly in my 97

nxdzy8rlkm4bnzcbzhgj.jpg


damaged TYC...30 1/4 inches center to center. Interdasting.

Anyway, it worked. Hottest temps now are 194 full high hot (going up a canyon with AC on in 95 degree heat. I did the same run with my CSF and it got to well over 226 and climbing.



And for fun, here is me getting it done.
 
^^^
Thanks for the post.

I'm in the exact same situation with my 92 3FE. CSF replacement rad. that I know is defective/insuffiecient; just need to figure out what I want to put in its place and then find the time to do it.
 
FYI - UPDATE. Many thanks to @brianh699

cj1s8iim6uhedujy5b4p.jpg


As you can see there is something funky on the inlet side. All the paint had be heated away. Yes its behind the trans cooler but there is certainly something more than a little extra heat. Methinks my CSF had a block there, despite a flush. Factory damage? Who knows.

That picture is telling.

Do you have the means to cut that sucker open?
 
Any blockage or issue in the core is more likely to make it cold, since no hot coolant could get in. That discoloration is not likely caused from being too hot. Not to mention it would have to get much hotter than any coolant ever could to bake paint off.
 
Any blockage or issue in the core is more likely to make it cold, since no hot coolant could get in. That discoloration is not likely caused from being too hot. Not to mention it would have to get much hotter than any coolant ever could to bake paint off.

That makes sense the blockage could be below it and hot coolant might have stagnate there
 
That makes sense the blockage could be below it and hot coolant might have stagnate there

How old is it? Return it for an exchange, my guess, will have the same performance result.
 

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