tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Thank you great to hear... really don't get any feedback from people who have gotten them. I guess it's a good thing. Pretty straightforward install
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- Thread starter
- #82
Awesome. Thanks for that wire confirmation. Appreciate it. And great to hear that you're doing the 6.2 with the 6L80. No doubt that will be a very capable truck.
And thank you for the offer on the FP info and for linking to Tommy's bracket. I've seen a few threads regarding that upgrade and have it on my short list since it looks like a very comprehensive and straightforward solution. For now I am going to stick with the stock pump, but if I run into any fuel supply issues it will be top of the list.
- Thread starter
- #83
Picking away at things. Have the dash torn down to take care of a lot of random wiring as well as work the PSI harness into the mix. Going to add an ignition triggered fuse block somewhere to clean up a lot of the accessories I have running randomly through the firewall.
While it was apart I removed the HVAC to re-foam and clean everything. While it's out I'll pressure test and braze the heat exchanger to make sure it is good to to before I put everything back in. Never had the dash face off before. Only a slight pia. Tons of dust and disintegrated foam in the system.
New evaporator should be here in a few days.
While it was apart I removed the HVAC to re-foam and clean everything. While it's out I'll pressure test and braze the heat exchanger to make sure it is good to to before I put everything back in. Never had the dash face off before. Only a slight pia. Tons of dust and disintegrated foam in the system.
New evaporator should be here in a few days.
I am curious as to where you plan to put the new fuse block. I am prepping to get wiring on my seat heaters and need to do the same
- Thread starter
- #85
Was thinking either in the passenger kick panel if I can find room, or where @Bullzi put his next to the glove box here.
Figuring 6 circuits. I bought one of these, so need to see where it fits.
- Seat heaters
- Trans Temp Gauge
- Dash USB charger
- Center console USB charger
- GPS tracker
- Whatever is needed for PSI harness
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
That one will fit in drivers kick panel make a sheet metal bracket to bolt into where I forget what's there then mount the fuse panel to it. Let me see if I have a picture of it on my Instagram page if so I'll post a picture
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
No dice pictures are on old phone
I put a blue sea on the pass kick panel - just screwed to the plastic, it definitely isn't going anywhere. Pic in this post: Builds - HELLO, MY NAME IS CLARK - FJ62 docu-series thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hello-my-name-is-clark-fj62-docu-series-thread.1276319/post-14809933
What gauge wire are you planning? I am planning to make mine switched with something like https://www.prowireusa.com/75A-RELAY
75A should be plenty for a worse case. And likely some 6ga from the battery to the panel https://www.prowireusa.com/p-870-6-awg-motorsport-battery-cable-red.html
- Thread starter
- #90
Working through the wiring, and thought I had everything hooked up and ready for first crank. No go unfortunately, and now am stuck with no power anywhere. Hoping someone has an obvious fix that I am overlooking before I un-loom my under-dash wires to see if I burned a section out.
This is where I'm at:
I have 13.1v through both sides of the fusible links ( pulled the boots back and got my meter on the connectors), continuity through the fusible link wires to the ignition (B-G, and B), but only 1.7v at the ignition end of the fusible link wires. Same deal on the yellow EFI fuse that is fed from the single wire fusible link. Also, same voltage if I use a jumper to eliminate the fusible link.
When I first hooked my battery up and moved key to ACC, I had power everywhere, CEL on, and fuel pump was running. I moved the key to the crank position, heard a loud click (kinda sounded like starter gear hit the flywheel, but didn't move it). Lost all power at that point.
I have PSI fuse box trigger and fuel pump trigger wires connected to B-L (3FE ignitor) wire.
I have fuel pump power (out of PSI relay) wired directly to fuel pump wire in PS kick panel, per jdog's pic a few posts back.
Any ideas?
This is where I'm at:
I have 13.1v through both sides of the fusible links ( pulled the boots back and got my meter on the connectors), continuity through the fusible link wires to the ignition (B-G, and B), but only 1.7v at the ignition end of the fusible link wires. Same deal on the yellow EFI fuse that is fed from the single wire fusible link. Also, same voltage if I use a jumper to eliminate the fusible link.
When I first hooked my battery up and moved key to ACC, I had power everywhere, CEL on, and fuel pump was running. I moved the key to the crank position, heard a loud click (kinda sounded like starter gear hit the flywheel, but didn't move it). Lost all power at that point.
I have PSI fuse box trigger and fuel pump trigger wires connected to B-L (3FE ignitor) wire.
I have fuel pump power (out of PSI relay) wired directly to fuel pump wire in PS kick panel, per jdog's pic a few posts back.
Any ideas?
Sorry, wish I could help here. I would have done the same troubleshooting.
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks. I've just started un-looming to try to track the voltage drop. Was kinda hoping there was a relay I didn't know about that needed to be reset like the door lock relay.
Also wondering if I should just replace the fusible links while I'm at it with the slick little unit that @CruiserTrash just came out with. Thinking since I only need the link with 3 wires, I might be able to just use the 60 version he has for sale.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Have you double checked your ground connections
- Thread starter
- #94
Nope. Good idea. I need to sand the paint off all of them too to make sure they're good to go. Thanks for the suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #95
Thanks Tommy. You nailed it. I sanded all my grounds down to metal and am back in business. Good reminder for me to double check the basics first.
I've got fuel pressure, and starter engaged when I tapped the key to start. Baby is napping, so have to wait until she wakes up to see if will run.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Sweet as soon as you said a loud click then nothing ground came in mind are you using all the factory toyota grounds and large block ground wire. I add block to chassis grounds and run a block to battery ground. .
Glad to be helpful
Tommy
Here’s what I’m using. Also using the factory ground wire coming off xfer case
Painless Performance 40140 Body and Engine Ground Strap Kit https://a.co/d/16ol5Pg
Painless Performance 40140 Body and Engine Ground Strap Kit https://a.co/d/16ol5Pg
- Thread starter
- #98
Thanks guys. Got it going this afternoon. Not sure about that stumble. If an italian tune up doesn’t do the trick, I’ll have to get a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and see if I’ve got 58 psi. It is a salvage yard motor that has not run in over a year, after all.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Yeah that's not supposed to be happening
- Thread starter
- #100
I didn't think so. In retrospect I should have cleaned the injectors before putting the motor in.
Fuel pressure readings with stock 62 pump and lines:
-40 psi to the rail with the key on / engine off.
-42-48 psi with engine trying to run while I feather the throttle to keep it running.
I am also going to double check that all of my spark plug wires are seated, as well as double check all the injector connectors.
Also thinking might be worth changing the gas out or adding some seafoam to the fuel. Stuff in the tank has been sitting for a little over a year at this point.
