Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. (1 Viewer)

[Nad Aitch]

C59-175v is a 65mm lift coil for no load but if you add some weight the stronger spring rate will kick in

@crikeymike and/or @David Otero can you clarify this? Exit off-road markets this coil as follows-

Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series and Lexus LX450 1990-1997 2.0″ lift with up to 660LBS, or 3″ lift with up to 330LBS

Also the ancient spec sheet from 2017 seems to indicate it has the spring rate as the 223v.

Is it possible to get an updated data sheet for all your coils?

Is the 175 vs same spring rate as the 223v, simply 20mm taller?

Thanks

Which would you recommend for a 2-3 inch lift with about 450lbs constant / 600lbs surplus?

 

[GW Nugget]

Let me update this thread.
Based on the bump stop distanced inside the springs of front 50mm and rear 105mm for stock lift.

This is with 5,880lbs. Front is 2,760 and rear is 3,120.

On the 2861 fronts there is about 90mm. 1.4" lift.
On the 2862 rears there is abot 105mm. 0 lift.

On the 2850j fronts there is about 143mm. 3.7" lift
On the 2863j rears there is about 165mm. 2.4" lift.

One thing I haven't noticed mentioned, or remember is the clearance problem with the OME BP51 shocks on full compression.

The brake line bracket on both sides will serve as a hard bump stop on the shock body itself. I relocated them outboard about 3/4"
View attachment 3872485

The right side is a bit worse. The short hard line is also in the way. Gotta bend the bracket too. View attachment 3872517

What did you end up doing?
I didnt see this, haven't be here in awhile.
I would of sandwich in a set of coil spacers, you can get them up to 50mm.

 

[crikeymike]

@crikeymike and/or @David Otero can you clarify this? Exit off-road markets this coil as follows-



Also the ancient spec sheet from 2017 seems to indicate it has the spring rate as the 223v.

Is it possible to get an updated data sheet for all your coils?

Is the 175 vs same spring rate as the 223v, simply 20mm taller?

Thanks

Which would you recommend for a 2-3 inch lift with about 450lbs constant / 600lbs surplus?

C59-175V
465/475mm free height
19mm wire
205-245lb spring rate

Basically yes, just like the 223V but taller

C59-175V - 2.0″ lift with up to 660LBS, or 3″ lift with up to 330LBS
Those will be ideal as long as you're ok with that lift height

All options are on this page: Dobinsons 80 Series Rear Coils Options for Land Cruiser 80 Series - https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-rear-coil-spring-options-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series-1990-1997-2-6-lift/

 

[Nad Aitch]

C59-175V
465/475mm free height
19mm wire
205-245lb spring rate

Basically yes, just like the 223V but taller

C59-175V - 2.0″ lift with up to 660LBS, or 3″ lift with up to 330LBS
Those will be ideal as long as you're ok with that lift height

All options are on this page: Dobinsons 80 Series Rear Coils Options for Land Cruiser 80 Series - https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-rear-coil-spring-options-for-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series-1990-1997-2-6-lift/

Perfect thanks for confirming!
I have a set of 223v - I was considering upgrading for more load capacity but it sounds like a spacer (which I already have) would do the exact same thing. My tail end is about ~550 over stock day to day, ~700 loaded for trips.

 

[crikeymike]

Perfect thanks for confirming!
I have a set of 223v - I was considering upgrading for more load capacity but it sounds like a spacer (which I already have) would do the exact same thing. My tail end is about ~550 over stock day to day, ~700 loaded for trips.

No worries

Yeah, spacers would basically give the same result

 

[AcroSteve]

What did you end up doing?
I didnt see this, haven't be here in awhile.
I would of sandwich in a set of coil spacers, you can get them up to 50mm.

The 2861 and 2862 with 1" spacer rings.

 

[petegangies]

Hi all, I'm thinking of replacing my current shocks and springs, they've been on the vehicle since 2007 and have done approx 50,000kms. They are standard height coils (they say about 10% stiffer) and foam cell shocks, from an Australian brand called Pedders. Car is running on BF KM2 Mud Terrains (manufactured in 2013) in 285/75R16 and the ride comfort can best be described as "bone jarring". It rides horribly and you feel every bump in the road. I know the aging muddies are probably contributing quite a bit to the harshness, but I suspect the Pedders suspension will be too. The car tows a relatively small boat and has a dual battery setup in the engine bay. I've seen a lot of people here run the factory Tokico shocks and OME 861/862 coils, which results in a compliant and comfortable ride. I don't do any hardcore offroading, but often drive on outback roads which are bendy and riddled with potholes. The tyres will soon be replaced with Yokohama Geolandar G018 ATs.

I have a 1994 FZJ80 landcruiser (Australia). I see quite a few different part numbers for shocks. Availability for the exact ones is an issue... I can however, get my hands on the following parts #:

• Toyota Genuine Parts Shock Absorber ASSY RR LH Land Cruiser VAN Part Number 48531-69416 and
• Toyota Genuine Parts Shock Absorber ASSY FR LH Land Cruiser VAN Part Number 48511-69385

Or through Partsouq:

• E4097 - SHOCK ABSORBER RR - Tokico
• E4096 - SHOCK ABSORBER FR - Tokico

Would these fit my vehicle? The Tokico's are cheaper by $200 over the genuine Toyotas.

Failing that, I have access to Bilstein B6 shocks here and can probably can the Dobinsons Stock Height Restoration IMS Kit for 1990-97 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series - DSSKITIMS2 kit.

Would appreciate any advice!

Cheers,
Pete

 

[alia176]

Hey fellas,
I did a search but didn't find the info I'm seeking. My C59-170 front springs has "left" and "right" side tags. In the USA, am I putting the "left" springs on the passenger front location? That's what I've been running for few years and this yielded the pass side being 1" higher. So, I was going to switch them so that the "left" side now sits on the driver location and see how the height numbers shake out.

Thanks for your feedback.

 

[crikeymike]

Hey fellas,
I did a search but didn't find the info I'm seeking. My C59-170 front springs has "left" and "right" side tags. In the USA, am I putting the "left" springs on the passenger front location? That's what I've been running for few years and this yielded the pass side being 1" higher. So, I was going to switch them so that the "left" side now sits on the driver location and see how the height numbers shake out.

Thanks for your feedback.

View attachment 3945595

The fronts go on as labeled, but the rears get switched usually.

 

[alia176]

The fronts go on as labeled, but the rears get switched usually.

excellent, thank you.

 

[petegangies]

Hi all, I'm thinking of replacing my current shocks and springs, they've been on the vehicle since 2007 and have done approx 50,000kms. They are standard height coils (they say about 10% stiffer) and foam cell shocks, from an Australian brand called Pedders. Car is running on BF KM2 Mud Terrains (manufactured in 2013) in 285/75R16 and the ride comfort can best be described as "bone jarring". It rides horribly and you feel every bump in the road. I know the aging muddies are probably contributing quite a bit to the harshness, but I suspect the Pedders suspension will be too. The car tows a relatively small boat and has a dual battery setup in the engine bay. I've seen a lot of people here run the factory Tokico shocks and OME 861/862 coils, which results in a compliant and comfortable ride. I don't do any hardcore offroading, but often drive on outback roads which are bendy and riddled with potholes. The tyres will soon be replaced with Yokohama Geolandar G018 ATs.

I have a 1994 FZJ80 landcruiser (Australia). I see quite a few different part numbers for shocks. Availability for the exact ones is an issue... I can however, get my hands on the following parts #:

• Toyota Genuine Parts Shock Absorber ASSY RR LH Land Cruiser VAN Part Number 48531-69416 and
• Toyota Genuine Parts Shock Absorber ASSY FR LH Land Cruiser VAN Part Number 48511-69385

Or through Partsouq:

• E4097 - SHOCK ABSORBER RR - Tokico
• E4096 - SHOCK ABSORBER FR - Tokico

Would these fit my vehicle? The Tokico's are cheaper by $200 over the genuine Toyotas.

Failing that, I have access to Bilstein B6 shocks here and can probably can the Dobinsons Stock Height Restoration IMS Kit for 1990-97 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series - DSSKITIMS2 kit.

Would appreciate any advice!

Cheers,
Pete

Anyone?

 

[napir]

Anyone?

I'm not sure there's a difference between the the Tokico part numbers and the Toyota, they may be identical but I also wouldn't overthink it, if they fit and are intended for the 80 according to Partsouq, I imagine they'll do what you need.

The typical Toyota part numbers for stock Tokicos on US 80s usually recommended are different than those, worth checking out:
48511-69435 - FR
48531-69417 - RR

As far as ride, it could also be bushings, if they haven't been addressed, well, 30+ years...

 

[alia176]

I think this thread might be the place to find the answer I'm seeking. I think I have close to 175-200# on the roof. Which shocks help with a bloated/top heavy body from wallowing? In another words, I need the body to stop moving right after going over something. Do I need them fancy bypass shocks or something? I"m not talking about Baja style of racing or anything, just need the body to settle down quicker as I proceed along a chunky trail.

I do disconnect the front Whiteline sway bar over the chunkies in order to prevent the front axle from pulling the body down harshly. This "feels" like the body is moving a little less than when the front sway bar was connected.

Most will probably point to the rebound setting as being the culprit, ok, i'll accept that. What else? I've thought about adding jounce shocks to supplement the current shocks to help with this but I'm not sure if that's a band aid. I'm using the factory front inside coil springs bump stops with 1.5" spacers. The rears are running Timbren bump stops on the frame rails.

The springs are Dobs 3.5" VT something in the rear, and Dobs 3" linear up front. The shocks are Ironman FCPs. Vehicle weight is 7500#. The Whiteline f+r sway bars make hwy cornering quite lovely. No, I'm not losing any weight from up top I can't be the only bloated 80 with this issue, and these shocks are probably going on ten years by now so maybe they lost their mojo?

 

[Fattyeighty]

I think this thread might be the place to find the answer I'm seeking. I think I have close to 175-200# on the roof. Which shocks help with a bloated/top heavy body from wallowing? In another words, I need the body to stop moving right after going over something. Do I need them fancy bypass shocks or something? I"m not talking about Baja style of racing or anything, just need the body to settle down quicker as I proceed along a chunky trail.

I do disconnect the front Whiteline sway bar over the chunkies in order to prevent the front axle from pulling the body down harshly. This "feels" like the body is moving a little less than when the front sway bar was connected.

Most will probably point to the rebound setting as being the culprit, ok, i'll accept that. What else? I've thought about adding jounce shocks to supplement the current shocks to help with this but I'm not sure if that's a band aid. I'm using the factory front inside coil springs bump stops with 1.5" spacers. The rears are running Timbren bump stops on the frame rails.

The springs are Dobs 3.5" VT something in the rear, and Dobs 3" linear up front. The shocks are Ironman FCPs. Vehicle weight is 7500#. The Whiteline f+r sway bars make hwy cornering quite lovely. No, I'm not losing any weight from up top I can't be the only bloated 80 with this issue, and these shocks are probably going on ten years by now so maybe they lost their mojo?

While I dont have experience with a heavy 80, from your description it seems that the shocks are long gone and not controlling spring compression/rebound.
Hydraulic bump stops won't do much since you're not controlling the springs at all - you need proper shocks.
Now there's a lot of flavours for different budgets. 2.0 Monotube shocks would probably struggle to control #7500, especially at pace - plus you'd need the kind that are tuneable which means remote reservoirs are mandatory for ease of maintenance/valving at home.

2.5" would be more suitable for your weight especially for moving at pace - which manufacturer is up to you but I'd suggest Kings for their ease of maintenance/parts/knowledge availability online.

Either 2.5" shocks or anything cheap enough in the proper length - wouldn't suggest trying anything in between (Dobinsons IMS/Ironman/Tough dog etc) as it would be a waste of money I believe. Save up for a true 2.5" with custom valving are you're set for many many years as they're rebuildable