Builds Colonel Mustard Revival (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Threads
11
Messages
89
Location
Minneapolis
Well, it's about time I start a build thread, I have mostly stuck to a few one off posts on some things that were installed or fixed, and asking a few questions here and there. I have both a 60 and an 80, with the 80 more recently taking up my time as I made it road worthy. If you search my post history you can see some of my work, nothing special, but also somewhat interesting. Now, I'm finally taking on this roof removal and rust abatement project. I feel like it's finally time I can contribute something to the IH8MUD forum. There may be a thread or post on this, but I have not found it.

A little about Colonel mustard, @slj3df33 was one of the owners on IH8mud here, and his kidos gave it the name, so I've carried it forward. She is a 1984, Fj60, US spec, 2F nothing special, I bought the truck from the owner in between us. When Steve had it, he did a ton of work to keep it going and it looked great when he turned it over to its new caretaker, unfortunately the person between us, did not help the rust situation and drove it a few winters before I picked it up in 2016. While it was mostly mechanically sound the rust was/is bad, really bad… and I could stick my arm through the floorboards, rockers are gone, rear wheel arches shot, body mounts are collapsed, and rear quarters bad. Interestly enough though, the frame is super solid, in fact better than my 80 frame. I did all the standard stuff, as you can see in my posts, the lift, seals, axle rebuilds, sliders, bumpers, etc… and I daily drove it in the summers for several years. I absolutely love this truck and hope to never have to sell it and my Nephew can inherit it.

Well, here we are, late summer 2022, and I figured I should address the rust around the air intake for the a/c unit, and that has now spiraled into the truck gutted, and the roof is off. In this thread, I'll talk about how I got the cowling and roof off, how I dealt with the drip rails, and how I put it all back together. There will be lots of other rust work, but that has been covered extensively here, I'm also going to do a full roll cage, and a LS / NV4500 swap, the motor is already built and ready to go. This will take forever, so this will be a long haul.
Goal of the project is to make a super drivable over lander, I'm not a purist, so LS swaps, and non OEM items are fine with me. The rust is so bad, that trying to keep it original is way way past anyone’s reasonable budget. Lots of non-conventional sheet metal work will be needed to get it back in shape. The outward appearance will look stock(ish) other than the lift and bumpers.

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The Cowel

When I first got the truck, the floorboards were rotted out. The first week I had the truck I welded those up, poorly, but fixed. I knew this was from the windshield gasket and or the air intake. Further investigation showed it was both. My solution since garaging was not an option was to use duct tape to cover the windshield gasket as the air intake, so when it rained the water was minimal, this worked ok, but it also meant no fresh are for the vent fan to use, as the A/C stopped working long ago.

I found myself with a 2 month window between house projects and figured, hey, let's fix that. So, I first removed the fenders, wheel arches, hood, and windshield. Managed to break the windshield, extra too bad as it was OEM, but that's ok. I have another. I also removed the vent fan and glove box. All this is pretty straight forward stuff, just bolts and time. That led to the horror of how bad the windshield surround was… no big deal, just more metal to cut. So really the work was straightforward, a ⅜ spot weld remover, and lots and lots of drilling, you can see the spot welds, just drill them out, and don't go through all the way. I found that starting the spot weld remover with another drill bit first seems to work well to center the spot weld remover.
There are lots of small parts on either side that need to be removed

When I pulled off the cowling and small parts, I filled all the spot weld cuts using a homemade copper spoon set up, I also stripped the paint and set them aside for future use (ill take better photos in the future now that i'm doing a build thread here). I then cut out all the rust around the intake, and welded in a new section. The stand pipe we will call it, was also rusty, so I just took a ½ inch off the bottom and then welded it all together. Then spread a nice 3mm seam sealer around it all. That took care of that, then I started cutting out the windshield rust, same deal, cut the rust, drill out the spot welds. This is when I realized that the top needed to come off, more on that later.

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The Cowel

When I first got the truck, the floorboards were rotted out. The first week I had the truck I welded those up, poorly, but fixed. I knew this was from the windshield gasket and or the air intake. Further investigation showed it was both. My solution since garaging was not an option was to use duct tape to cover the windshield gasket as the air intake, so when it rained the water was minimal, this worked ok, but it also meant no fresh are for the vent fan to use, as the A/C stopped working long ago.

I found myself with a 2 month window between house projects and figured, hey, let's fix that. So, I first removed the fenders, wheel arches, hood, and windshield. Managed to break the windshield, extra too bad as it was OEM, but that's ok. I have another. I also removed the vent fan and glove box. All this is pretty straight forward stuff, just bolts and time. That led to the horror of how bad the windshield surround was… no big deal, just more metal to cut. So really the work was straightforward, a ⅜ spot weld remover, and lots and lots of drilling, you can see the spot welds, just drill them out, and don't go through all the way. I found that starting the spot weld remover with another drill bit first seems to work well to center the spot weld remover.
There are lots of small parts on either side that need to be removed

When I pulled off the cowling and small parts, I filled all the spot weld cuts using a homemade copper spoon set up, I also stripped the paint and set them aside for future use (ill take better photos in the future now that i'm doing a build thread here). I then cut out all the rust around the intake, and welded in a new section. The stand pipe we will call it, was also rusty, so I just took a ½ inch off the bottom and then welded it all together. Then spread a nice 3mm seam sealer around it all. That took care of that, then I started cutting out the windshield rust, same deal, cut the rust, drill out the spot welds. This is when I realized that the top needed to come off, more on that later.

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The Roof

Well, the windshield rust is bad, when looking around the truck, I noticed some rust around the rear drip rail, I poked at it with a screwdriver, and well, it went right through. So now I have a hole in the roof. Further inspection, and I found it was worse than I thought. I searched for solutions and really didn't find much. The couple posts I did see were only small sections of it all, and I didn't like how it all ended up. Really I think this way may not be that much harder (my opinion)

So I decided the roof must come off, similar to the cowling, it's just a ton of spot welds, so I went to town. First I removed all the doors, glass and interior, then i starting drilling out the spot welds with by using a small drill bit to make a small detent and then the spot weld remover, really it was about 4 or 5 hours of work, a few beers, and next thing you know the roof was off. I discovered more rust than I thought, and am super happy I can address it. Next up will be the removal and restoration of the drip rails, I'll cover that in the next post. That is just more spot welds too.

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I really really admire your work. You must know what your doing with all that rust! I would like to learn how to fix rust, my Cruiser is in okay shape but will need help soon as most of the important parts are rust free.

But please, where did you get the tailgate skin? Or the metal for the tailgate?
 
I really really admire your work. You must know what your doing with all that rust! I would like to learn how to fix rust, my Cruiser is in okay shape but will need help soon as most of the important parts are rust free.

But please, where did you get the tailgate skin? Or the metal for the tailgate?


4X4Labs rear bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4x4labs-rear-bumper.1245740/

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw

Check this guy out on YouTube, Fitzee Fabrications. He does a great job on how to fix rust.

I just fabricated my own a few years back. It’s a strip of metal with the edge rounded over. Some grinding, bondo and paint and you have a nice looking tailgate.



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4X4Labs rear bumper - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4x4labs-rear-bumper.1245740/

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw

Check this guy out on YouTube, Fitzee Fabrications. He does a great job on how to fix rust.

I just fabricated my own a few years back. It’s a strip of metal with the edge rounded over. Some grinding, bondo and paint and you have a nice looking tailgate.



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Wow. Good job looks amazing. I need a new tail gate.
 
Drip Edge - Rust Never Sleeps

With the roof off the drip edges needed to come off next. The roof is spot welded to the drip rail, and the drip rails are spot welded to the body. As you can see from the photos in the roof post, there is a ton of rust. It was barely noticeable from the outside, check this out, from below, it looks like just a bit of rust…..
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But from the top… well shoot

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So just like with the roof and cowl, more spot weld removal. Here is the spot weld remover I am using:

Spot weld remover

In order to find all the welds, I ran a wire wheel along the drip rail and skimmed off some of the rust, this made the spots easy to find
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Then I pilot drilled each of them, while the spot weld remover has a spring loaded drill bit in it, I found that a shallow pilot hole seems to work better to keep everything aligned. Follow the directions, and don't go too fast, and your remover bit will last a while, I went through 3 bits before I figured out, if I slow down they will last way longer

After drilling out all the spot welds, I used a 5 in 1 painter's tool to split them apart. I found that better to use than a automotive panel splitter. It's thinner, and was able to do less damage, and it worked super well.

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Below you can see the drip rail cross section, the roof is just spot welded to the gap in the drip rail, when the seam sealer fails, which is will, then the water finds its way in. willing to bet most 60's look like this, unless they have lived in a garage their whole life. Which to be fair, a lot of them have.

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After I removed all the drip rails, I found, well, rust, but most of it was just on the surface, only a few spots were bad enough that it would need to be cut out and new metal welded in. I wire wheeled everything and sprayed the not as bad spots with rust converter, I'll paint all of this in the long run, and when it's all put back together with modern seam sealer, I'm sure if will hold up for another 40 years.

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Next up, I sandblasted the drip rails, these will need a lot of work to get back in shape, that will be a different post. Not 100% sure what ill do here, might need to make some new bits… will use what I have though, will just take some time. If anyone knows anything about making drip rails, let me know. Seems like I can make them on a brake, will probably need to get a bigger one. Always good to find an excuse to buy more tools!!! I have a spot welder and a pipe bender on the way for the roll cage, and to put the roof back on, when I get to it.

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The bad spots were cut out, and some new metal welded in, since this will be under the body, the level of good, can be less, way less. this is pretty straight forward, I can go in more detail, however, this seems to have been covered extensively here. Most of the sheet metal used on the 60 is 20 gauge, which is what I am using here. the big box stores usually stock 22 and 16, 22 is too thin (my Opinion, although I did use it on my 80 project), and 16 is too thick, your local steel dealer will have what you need.

Fitzze Fabrications - this guys channel is great for this kind of stuff

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The welds here will get ground down and painted, but I'm out of time for the night. This will be my last post for a while on all of this, might get another in next week we will see what time allows. This is all the easy part, putting it all back together the right way will be the hard part… and we will get there.

If anyone has any thoughts for feedback, let me know. Also, I'm in the western suburbs of the Twin Cities, not too many 60's out here, but if you are, and you want to connect... PM me, would be neat to talk with others on your project.
 
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Fitzee's is a great channel ("cut 'n butt"). I'm sure the bodymen in New Foundland & Labrador are experts on this rust remediation process. Another great channel is Make it Custom (https://www.youtube.com/c/MakeItKustom/videos) and this Porche guy who did alot of rust work on his 356 (https://www.youtube.com/c/GarageTimeAutoResto/videos).

One thing I am wondering is how to get the seam sealer that will go under the drip rail to adhere? Is there a really sticky sealer that can be applied upside down without running down the side of the truck?
 
The Body - the spiral continues

After taking a close look at the frame, it looks terrible, but salvageable… with that the body must come off, and the frame will need to be sandblasted. This will also make it much easier to solve the rust issues on the body. Body removals have been covered so I wont go into a ton of detail. Basically, pull all the body bolts, disconnect all the wires and hoses, and lift! I found a comment in a thread about someone using an engine hoist, and turns out it totally works! Used the rear seat belt bolts with some fat washers to grab the straps, and then hooked around the seat posts, 6 ratchet straps, and a helper in the rear and the body will come off. In the next post, the body will be put on a stand high enough to work under it, the majority of the rust will be easy to reach or at standing level. Tons of rust repair will be needed. It will also be wide enough to roll the frame back under it. my garage is big, but its not a full up shop.

does anyone have a connection and or know of anyone in the Twin Cities area that can/will sand blast a frame?


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Eventually the drive train will get pulled and the frame sandblasted. I'm expecting some weld repair on the frame, which I will document. I'll also show most of the rust repairs.

Let the Spiral Continue!!

At this point, I'm going to go after the full LS/NV4500 swap as well...



4 more weeks until the house project takes over for a few months, so let's see how much I can get done.
 
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Body is off, Motor Transmission, and T case are out, the fun continues.

Pretty easy removing the body this way, needed a neighbor to lift up the back end, and then just lifted the body up and over, and off the frame. The only thing that was forgotten was the speedo cable.

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Today I spent the time pulling off the core support and the motor and transmission. No major surprises here, it's quite easy pulling a motor when you don't have to crawl under it. As mentioned in the last post, there are some issues with the frame, looks like a few spots have some bad rust I'll need to fix, but overall, it's in better shape than I thought, for a Minnesota frame. Turns out if you use an engine hoist, and get the back end of the truck up in the air, you can use a power washer to get all the rust debris out of the frame, working pretty well.

I think I'll also post up the motor and transmission for sale, it will be years before I get to a 40 project. I'll be keeping the transfer case, everything else can go. If you are interested let me know, if not, that's cool too, I'll put it up in the classifieds when I get to it. Essentially, it's a super good running and nice shifting transmission (4 speed). I've been daily driving it in the summers since 2016 with no issues, there is about 200k on it, seems like it was well maintained, i only put about 13k on it while i had it. Rebuild it, refresh it, or just run it as is. I've had the oil pan off, and put in a new oil pump, and it looked super good. Also when I did a valve adjustment it was super clean (I have a picture). I also did a rear main seal, and a new clutch a few years back. I did some borescope pics of the cylinders, they look good too, a few score marks from the cylinders, but really you can still see cross hatching.



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Hopefully the next post will be rust repair on the body, and hopefully I'll have the frame sandblasted soon. Only 33 more days till the house remodel project starts, where ill be offline for about 4 months.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
Expensive. Ngl slow LC can be frustrating.
 

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