Awesome! :]
Seems like a 2 bannana job after the cutting is done
Seems like a 2 bannana job after the cutting is done
Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter red66toy
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red66toy
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Hey ! Sorry for the bad updates on this. I have been going SUPER slow. Life has been crazy busy and I have limited metal skills so I have been learning as I go. 
That being said, I feel like I can see the light at the end of this tunnel... I think I finally got the last hard shape done. I'll snap some pics and upload them soon. But I have been following @Skreddy 's lead based on his pics. As he mentioned, the rods on the side interfere with the hump sidewall once you put on the adapter, so you need to push the sidewalls out a bit. Not a big deal, and you need to anyways because when you raise that top section up 2" you need to angle the sidewalls more vertical to match the new angles.
This whole project would be very easy for a someone with more skills than I... like @Skreddy But its not hard.
I do still want to make a mold of this thing once its done. I realized as I was building up my 65 hump that the later 3 speed humps are different! So we may have to make two molds, one of mine and one of @Skreddy 's .
That being said, I feel like I can see the light at the end of this tunnel... I think I finally got the last hard shape done. I'll snap some pics and upload them soon. But I have been following @Skreddy 's lead based on his pics. As he mentioned, the rods on the side interfere with the hump sidewall once you put on the adapter, so you need to push the sidewalls out a bit. Not a big deal, and you need to anyways because when you raise that top section up 2" you need to angle the sidewalls more vertical to match the new angles.This whole project would be very easy for a someone with more skills than I... like @Skreddy
But its not hard.I do still want to make a mold of this thing once its done. I realized as I was building up my 65 hump that the later 3 speed humps are different! So we may have to make two molds, one of mine and one of @Skreddy 's .
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Whoa! That's great to hear @red66toy 
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
To be clear, there aren’t clearance issues with a straight 3 speed for 4 speed swap are there; since you cut a hole for the shifter? My only clearance seemed to come in using the adapter to retain the column shift with the 4 speed. The tunnel only came up by the height of the adapter.Whoa! That's great to hear @red66toy
The days go by so quick and there's so many other things to do. Its hard to find the time. I'm eager to see how your tunnel is coming along!
For the molds, we're you thinking of re-creating a fiberglass or even a stamped steel version of them? It would help out a lot of people, for anyone doing a 4 speed conversion and are having issue with clearance issues.
You guys are right..... But, in my case, something was stopping me from getting the transmission cover on. The biggest issue was having a transfer-case saver. I bought the "heavy-duty" version, which is extra long, and impeeds the top-cover from Sitting flush on the floor. It's only about 0.25 inches of clearance issue, but thats just enough to prevent it from sitting as it should.
YES, I could remove it, but in my particular case, if I were to remove it now, it would cause big issue. The main bolt that passes through the t-case saver and t-case itself is being held together with a helicoil. If I were to remove the bolt, the helicoil will come out (I already tried it). And I need that helicoil in place since the threads are stripped between transmission and t-case. So I was stuck in a rock and a hard place.
The 1st Pic you can kinda tell thst the t-case saver (black) is hitting the tranmission tunnel on the left hand side of the picture. It's hitting near the breather port of the t-case.
Also, my 4 speed transmission is an early style h41, so the top cover is totally different from the later style h42 and later h41. I had to cut the hump in a stupid shape just for it to kinda fit on there.
My future plan, to get the colum shift working, is to take out the internals of the
H41 cover and swap it over into a h42 cover. Then I should be able to do "4 on the tree". It's a long shot, and the shifter forks are different. Hopefully I will be able to.
Now for a little redemption =)
I went ahead and cut/hammered a 4-speed cover, brand new, from Topnault (Chinese manufacture). This was a 1 banana job so far. All I needed was a BFH (big fuggin' hammer) and an angle grinder.
My transfer case saver now has the proper clearance as well as the transmission itself. As discussed earlier, the 4 speed cover is 1.5 inches taller than a 3 speed cover. This 4 speed cover is also a wider on both sides, so clearance issues for the colum shift adapter "should" be non-existent (hopefully).
You have to cut the rear part of the tunnel since it's too long. I traced out the pattern using my orginal 3 speed cover.
I had to hammer in the corner where the gas tank goes. On a brand new 4-speed cover, it bulges out and prevents the early 3-speed gas tank from sitting all the way down. Several hard hits with a hammer and that bulging part of metal disappears. I did a s*** job, but it can't be seen once the gas tank and passengers seat get put on.
Also needed to cut where the hump sits ontop of the ribbing of the floor boards. This happened on the passenger side toward the top. It makes direct contact and stops the tunnel from sitting flat on the floor.
I then hammered on the driver side. That part of the tunnel sits on one of the "ribbing" on the floor but easily takes shape.
I had to hammer down the rear corners as well, for whatever reason, there's bulging metal there as well and won't sit flush.
Lastly, I will need to fill in a gap by welding in some metal. This will be on the passengers side under the gas tank. It will just require a small "rectangular" section of newly welded metal.
The last photo is looking down from above the gas tank. The metal bulge is gone and now the gas tank sits nicely. Awful to look at the quality work I did, but I don't care at this point =p
I went ahead and cut/hammered a 4-speed cover, brand new, from Topnault (Chinese manufacture). This was a 1 banana job so far. All I needed was a BFH (big fuggin' hammer) and an angle grinder.
My transfer case saver now has the proper clearance as well as the transmission itself. As discussed earlier, the 4 speed cover is 1.5 inches taller than a 3 speed cover. This 4 speed cover is also a wider on both sides, so clearance issues for the colum shift adapter "should" be non-existent (hopefully).
You have to cut the rear part of the tunnel since it's too long. I traced out the pattern using my orginal 3 speed cover.
I had to hammer in the corner where the gas tank goes. On a brand new 4-speed cover, it bulges out and prevents the early 3-speed gas tank from sitting all the way down. Several hard hits with a hammer and that bulging part of metal disappears. I did a s*** job, but it can't be seen once the gas tank and passengers seat get put on.
Also needed to cut where the hump sits ontop of the ribbing of the floor boards. This happened on the passenger side toward the top. It makes direct contact and stops the tunnel from sitting flat on the floor.
I then hammered on the driver side. That part of the tunnel sits on one of the "ribbing" on the floor but easily takes shape.
I had to hammer down the rear corners as well, for whatever reason, there's bulging metal there as well and won't sit flush.
Lastly, I will need to fill in a gap by welding in some metal. This will be on the passengers side under the gas tank. It will just require a small "rectangular" section of newly welded metal.
The last photo is looking down from above the gas tank. The metal bulge is gone and now the gas tank sits nicely. Awful to look at the quality work I did, but I don't care at this point =p
It’s fiiiiine!
Just want to show that this is possibly the fastest way to go about any 4 speed swap as far as getting a taller tunnel. Even more so considering the colum shift adapter. And, it was very easy for someone who doesn't have the talent at welding things very well. I don't know why I waited so long suffering with all the exhaust/engine heat and noise from the road.
I was able to get the tunnel at a discounted "sale price" through cruiser corps, several months ago, plus free shipping.
Edit: anyone wanting to go this route, just pay attention to how the tunnel sits on your floor, mark the tunnel with a sharpie, then make the appropriate cuts. It'll take a few times to get the correct cuts and measurements, but it's stupid easy to do. Easily done in one day (minus welding up the big gap on the passengers side)
I was able to get the tunnel at a discounted "sale price" through cruiser corps, several months ago, plus free shipping.
Edit: anyone wanting to go this route, just pay attention to how the tunnel sits on your floor, mark the tunnel with a sharpie, then make the appropriate cuts. It'll take a few times to get the correct cuts and measurements, but it's stupid easy to do. Easily done in one day (minus welding up the big gap on the passengers side)
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I appreciate this post in particular, because I have wondered for a while about the interchangeability. Other than the obvious part of cutting off the tail, that’s as much as I figured.
I had mentioned to Topnault during our consultations that IMO they should forego making the older tunnels bc so many people were/are doing the 4 speed swap.
If I were closer, I’d offer to help with the passenger side floorboard fit, out of sheer curiosity.
Look forward to seeing your progress
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I wonder if you could cut that raised gap section off the passenger side of the hump, then cut that section area off your 3 speed hump so you could adapt it to the 4 speed hump so it will conform to the floor.
