Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

[red66toy]

I have been wondering how you’re liking the 4 on the tree. It was brutal drinking around without the trans hump but that was in the summer, but with no top on.

I have been loving it!! The 4 speed is such a nice game changer on this old truck. And I love the column shift. That is why I really need to finish this last step. No hump was brutal for sure. No more please. Hahaha

 

[red66toy]

LOL

I’ll snap you those seat hinge pictures later for your rebuild. I didn’t forget

 

[Andrew S]

Unrelated to Chase’s thread but I was thinking about you a few times lately. That sounds creepy. I’ve still got that radio for you.

Almost as creepy as me thinking about you. My one chance for a local Land Cruiser friend, and you end up moving to Spokane!
Let me know how much to ship the radio. I'll be in Spokane occasionally for a new work job, I'll look you up next time.

Now, back to Chase's regularly scheduled program...

 

[RevISK]

I even got the hump on hump day. So good stuff all around

Get it

 

[DesertFJ40]

Here is a shot from underneath

@red66toy I have had the same exact sound coming from my fj40 while it's running. Aside from all my other issues that im experiencing, this was the first sound I heard when i first started to drive it. Just like you, i've confirmed it was not the throwout bearing. All i could think was the pilot bearing as the next thing in line. Someone from ih8mud, on a long lost thread, said it takes a couple hundred miles for the pilot to get settled and would end up making " a buch of noises". I drove it 100 miles and it still squealed. I'm taking everything back apart due to a bad transmsision or clutch and I will be checking the pilot bearing as well.

I had been wanting to take further pictures and measurements of the 3 speed skid plate with 4 speed tranmission for you, but too many problems have come up on my end of the conversion to where I barely have enough time to figure out the issues. time to start over. It's good to hear that you're loving the 4 on the tree and that you got the transmisison tunnel to get it fitted on

Im not sure if you've connected your vacuum shift rod to the transfer case yet. Here is a solution (not my picture) the middle connection is a m8 x 1.25 pitch female to female coupling. I ordered a pack of 4 from amazon and should be coming in the mail soon. I couldn't find individual ones for sale. They were 2.50 a piece if you want one or two. Im planning on keeping 2 for my self. All you need for the rest it a few nuts, lock washers, and threaded extension.

​

 

[red66toy]

@red66toy I have had the same exact sound coming from my fj40 while it's running. Aside from all my other issues that im experiencing, this was the first sound I heard when i first started to drive it. Just like you, i've confirmed it was not the throwout bearing. All i could think was the pilot bearing as the next thing in line. Someone from ih8mud, on a long lost thread, said it takes a couple hundred miles for the pilot to get settled and would end up making " a buch of noises". I drove it 100 miles and it still squealed. I'm taking everything back apart due to a bad transmsision or clutch and I will be checking the pilot bearing as well.

I had been wanting to take further pictures and measurements of the 3 speed skid plate with 4 speed tranmission for you, but too many problems have come up on my end of the conversion to where I barely have enough time to figure out the issues. time to start over. It's good to hear that you're loving the 4 on the tree and that you got the transmisison tunnel to get it fitted on

Im not sure if you've connected your vacuum shift rod to the transfer case yet. Here is a solution (not my picture) the middle connection is a m8 x 1.25 pitch female to female coupling. I ordered a pack of 4 from amazon and should be coming in the mail soon. I couldn't find individual ones for sale. They were 2.50 a piece if you want one or two. Im planning on keeping 2 for my self. All you need for the rest it a few nuts, lock washers, and threaded extension.

​

Thanks! Yeah I got the transfer case all hooked up. Used the same method to extend the rod.
I am definitely curious what you find with your pilot bearing! I have have been contemplating ripping it all out again just to get it over with and fix the issue. I haven't looked into other pilot bearing options beyond the one that was in the AISIN clutch kit. I would assume there would be other options in the same size.

 

[DesertFJ40]

Thanks! Yeah I got the transfer case all hooked up. Used the same method to extend the rod.
I am definitely curious what you find with your pilot bearing! I have have been contemplating ripping it all out again just to get it over with and fix the issue. I haven't looked into other pilot bearing options beyond the one that was in the AISIN clutch kit. I would assume there would be other options in the same size.

Nice! then I will be going that route too for the extended rod. And I will take pictures if I find anything wrong and report back. The pilot bearing that im using is the extra-wide one from Nachi Japan. Its "new old stock" but it made me feel really disappointed when it made the squeaking noise. I was in aw when I came back to your thread and re-watched your videos and saw it sounded just the same.

Another thing that I wanted to make is a thread to discuss a brass/bronze pilot bushing instead of a pilot bearing. i've seen quite a few posts on this forum where people show that their transmission input shaft gets worn down or severely damaged if the pilot bearing gives out. How often does that happen, probably not very often in real life. But with a pilot bushing, if it were to somehow give out, it won't cause damage to the transmission shaft since the metal being used is much softer material. It also isn't suppose to make strange noises like we seem to be experiencing. I found some online that might work for our fj40s. I measured the bearings I have on hand and they only seem to be off by .01mm in measurement to the bushing I found online. One is slightly wider than what the standard pilot bearing comes in the kits and should work out of the box, the other is extremely wide and would need to be ground down to fit. They cost more and it seems it would be cheaper to get your own bronze pipe and drill/cut to size. The only issue is getting everything flush and straight if one were to do it themselves.

The only time I read of people using a pilot bushing in fj40s is for an sm420 transmission swap. After reading the few benefits of a bronze/brass bushing has of over a standard bearing, I would think that land cruiser owners would want to switch over too. There seem to be way more benefits to a bronze/brass bushing than a bearing. They seem to be more indestructible and are self lubricating and wont damage the input shaft. I know someone is going to think that Toyota has been using a bearing all these years, which is true, but if there's a better alternative, then why not?

 

[red66toy]

Oof! Talk about dragging feet! I need to get my butt in gear before the nice weather comes and goes!
Time to mod the hump! Borrowed a MIG welder from my buddy @TheNeek . I also ran to Toyota and picked up a new pilot bearing. Interesting the Toyota one is a sealed Nachi bearing. Not like the metal caged Koyo unit from the AISIN clutch kit. Hmmm. Still undecided whether to pull the drivetrain or live with it. I still have no idea if it’s a normal whine from that type of bearing. Either way, a decision for another day. Just wanted it on hand so it’s ready to run when I make up my mind.
Onward! Fingers crossed I can weld this up decently. Goal is for the hump to look as good as the one @Skreddy whipped up.

 

[DesertFJ40]

I want to chime in: I just started driving my fj40 for 1-week now. Just to be quick, I installed a new pilot bearing. If you recall, I was having the same exact noise as you are/were experiencing. The "new" bearing that I got is not 100% sealed. So, I dunked it gear oil for a day before installing so it could soak into the bearing grooves as best as it could. During my installation process, the bearing went in crooked, twice, and I had to remove it. The first time I took it out using wet news-paper packed into the hole the second time I used the bread-method. For reference, the bread method is the best. Each time after removing, I soaked it again in gear oil hoping that the next time I would install it correctly......

Once I started to drive the fj40, it was really quiet for a few miles. Then it started making a noise worse than before. Very loud just on idle. I imagined I somehow damaged the pilot bearing after removing it twice. After about 3 days of the "squealing" and deciding I would learn to live with noise for 40+ years, the noise just stopped. No more pilot bearing noise I don't know if dunking it in gear oil helped at all or if was just being lucky. But the noise is gone. it's as quiet as it use to run before I starting this 4-speed conversion. So, there is hope on your end. Also, I looked over the pilot bearing that I removed that was causing the noise and I did not note anything of concern. It looks great and feels smooth. I really don't know what caused it to make the noise.

If you do decide to replace it, I hope you cut the cross member and moved it back some. I haven't done that to mine yet, so obviously I had to tilt the engine. Also requires loosening radiator, exhaust, motor mounts, etc. Kind of a pain in the ass and time consuming.

I am now in the process of doing the Transmission tunnel and skid plate like you. Still moving slow, but it'll get there. And unfortunately, At this time, i am unable to do the 4-on-the-tree conversion. I have everything, but the top plate that I have from an h42 will not fit on my early h41 transmission. Things on it are a bit different. I think I know how to make it work but That wont be for a very long time on my end.

 

[pb4ugo]

Just take your time on the hump repair. I made templates. I made a couple of sections because I wanted to mimic steps of the stk flange and had to creatively straighten some of the minor stk curves. Then made a template and bent and curved flat sheet to fill in the opening that was left.

 

[red66toy]

Just take your time on the hump repair. I made templates. I made a couple of sections because I wanted to mimic steps of the stk flange and had to creatively straighten some of the minor stk curves. Then made a template and bent and curved flat sheet to fill in the opening that was left.

View attachment 3856397

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Dang! That looks great! I can only pray mine comes out that nice. Hahaha. I’ll definitely going slow and measuring 10 times before making moves. This will be a learning experience for me. Should be a fun challenge.

 

[red66toy]

I want to chime in: I just started driving my fj40 for 1-week now. Just to be quick, I installed a new pilot bearing. If you recall, I was having the same exact noise as you are/were experiencing. The "new" bearing that I got is not 100% sealed. So, I dunked it gear oil for a day before installing so it could soak into the bearing grooves as best as it could. During my installation process, the bearing went in crooked, twice, and I had to remove it. The first time I took it out using wet news-paper packed into the hole the second time I used the bread-method. For reference, the bread method is the best. Each time after removing, I soaked it again in gear oil hoping that the next time I would install it correctly......

Once I started to drive the fj40, it was really quiet for a few miles. Then it started making a noise worse than before. Very loud just on idle. I imagined I somehow damaged the pilot bearing after removing it twice. After about 3 days of the "squealing" and deciding I would learn to live with noise for 40+ years, the noise just stopped. No more pilot bearing noise I don't know if dunking it in gear oil helped at all or if was just being lucky. But the noise is gone. it's as quiet as it use to run before I starting this 4-speed conversion. So, there is hope on your end. Also, I looked over the pilot bearing that I removed that was causing the noise and I did not note anything of concern. It looks great and feels smooth. I really don't know what caused it to make the noise.

If you do decide to replace it, I hope you cut the cross member and moved it back some. I haven't done that to mine yet, so obviously I had to tilt the engine. Also requires loosening radiator, exhaust, motor mounts, etc. Kind of a pain in the ass and time consuming.

I am now in the process of doing the Transmission tunnel and skid plate like you. Still moving slow, but it'll get there. And unfortunately, At this time, i am unable to do the 4-on-the-tree conversion. I have everything, but the top plate that I have from an h42 will not fit on my early h41 transmission. Things on it are a bit different. I think I know how to make it work but That wont be for a very long time on my end.

Ooh! I love that story. Hopefully it just goes away. Best case scenario for sure. Glad it worked out for you in the end.
In the mean time, definitely going to just keep driving it. Goal is to drive it to the local cruiser meetup on Tuesday. No top, no hump, a pair of ear plugs maybe. Still fun.

 

[DesertFJ40]

@Skreddy

Hi! Okay so I've done absolutely nothing in regards to the transmission hump.

I've acquired two 3 speed tunnels as doners. I also got a new manufactured 4 speed tunnel from topnault.

The three speed sits too low and hits my transmission. It's an early style h41 and the transmission top plate is higher and diffrent design than an h42. Conversion to a colum shift as this point is possible, but I gotta gut the top plates and swap out the internals with each other to make it work (hopefully)

Okay, back to transmission covers. Now that I look over your Pic again @Skreddy, your tunnel looks like a 4speed tunnel. It has the two cowel drain holes and it's also a solid peice of stamp steel to form the hump. The 3 speed ones were 2 peice. But I could be mistaken.

So did you end up using a 4 speed cover, cut the edges where it bolts down, then reweld it to fit the 3 speed pattern as to where the orginal tunnel would sit on the floor? Otherwise, if I were to use the 4 speed tunnel that I have, I'd need to drill new holes on the floor boards to bolt it down.


I need all the help and insight I can get

@red66toy have you managed to come up with anything? I've been driving in dead of summer, Trans tunnel off, and getting cooked by the exhaust. I live in the southwest region and we reach over 100 degree weather here!! Its my daily driver. I've gotten use to it, but it's still quite miserable lol

 

[Skreddy]

@Skreddy

Hi! Okay so I've done absolutely nothing in regards to the transmission hump.

I've acquired two 3 speed tunnels as doners. I also got a new manufactured 4 speed tunnel from topnault.

The three speed sits too low and hits my transmission. It's an early style h41 and the transmission top plate is higher and diffrent design than an h42. Conversion to a colum shift as this point is possible, but I gotta gut the top plates and swap out the internals with each other to make it work (hopefully)

Okay, back to transmission covers. Now that I look over your Pic again @Skreddy, your tunnel looks like a 4speed tunnel. It has the two cowel drain holes and it's also a solid peice of stamp steel to form the hump. The 3 speed ones were 2 peice. But I could be mistaken.

So did you end up using a 4 speed cover, cut the edges where it bolts down, then reweld it to fit the 3 speed pattern as to where the orginal tunnel would sit on the floor? Otherwise, if I were to use the 4 speed tunnel that I have, I'd need to drill new holes on the floor boards to bolt it down.


I need all the help and ingisht I can get

@red66toy have you managed to come up with anything? I've been driving in dead of summer, Trans tunnel off, and getting cooked by the exhaust. I live in the southwest region and we reach over 100 degree weather here!! Its my daily driver. I've gotten use to it, but it's still quite miserable lol

I drove around a few weeks with no tunnel too and even in only 80 degree weather; it sucked!

I used my stock 1970 3 speed tunnel. It is a 2 piece, can see the seam in the pic where it’s not cut but has tape; the front edge was my cut line. I started using a ratty tunnel but gave up, mostly because it was too rusty. I think in the end I raised that section about 1.5” (about 1/22 of a washing machine for you non-inch measurers). Maybe slightly less.


@red66toy I am all setup again after my move east. This fall I could pull my tunnel and we could make a mold of it or something if you need.

 

[DesertFJ40]

Oh man! That looks amazing!

D'oh! >.<
I got user names mixed up!!! But I was wanting to ask you all this @Skreddy, so you're tons of help :] I know you had done this and was referencing your post as guidance. But a couple posts up, I thought it was you, but it's actually @pb4ugo!! His looks like a 4 speed cover that he cut and re-welded. In his post he repainted his tunnel red once finished. I wonder how it's working for him!

Okay! That's some inspiration for sure. It helps put everything into perspective on what and how it needs to be done. You're 100% spot on with the 1.5 inch too. Just yesterday, I was measuring the heigh distance from the 4 speed cover to the 3 speed, and it is indeed 1.5 inches! Toward the rear, it slants down, I belive that area was 0.5 inches.

 

[DesertFJ40]

@Skreddy :]

Lastly, what did you use to bend the shape of the sheet metal to fit so perfect? Just a hammer and some heat to bend it? Then Measure it up against the tunnel and re-shape as needed? I'd assume it should be fairly easy to bend since the pieces aren't too thick.

 

[65swb45]

I’m going to hop in here for another reason. I would like to know how close the linkage rods are to the SIDE of the transmission hump.

20 years ago the service manager at TLC planted a seed in my head that the hump was overly clearanced for the rods, to the detriment of cab room for your foot on the gas pedal. He suggested that the drivers side flange could be extended an inch or so towards the transmission , losing a small part of its symmetry, but netting a much more comfortable foot position.

 

[clrussell]

I’m going to hop in here for another reason. I would like to know how close the linkage rods are to the SIDE of the transmission hump.

20 years ago the service manager at TLC planted a seed in my head that the hump was overly clearanced for the rods, to the detriment of cab room for your foot on the gas pedal. He suggested that the drivers side flange could be extended an inch or so towards the transmission , losing a small part of its symmetry, but netting a much more comfortable foot position.

Well then. Never thought of this.

 

[Skreddy]

I’m going to hop in here for another reason. I would like to know how close the linkage rods are to the SIDE of the transmission hump.

20 years ago the service manager at TLC planted a seed in my head that the hump was overly clearanced for the rods, to the detriment of cab room for your foot on the gas pedal. He suggested that the drivers side flange could be extended an inch or so towards the transmission , losing a small part of its symmetry, but netting a much more comfortable foot position.

I had to dimple even farther out for the forward rod right near where the gas pedal goes. They are all pretty tight under there.

 

[Skreddy]

@Skreddy :]

Lastly, what did you use to bend the shape of the sheet metal to fit so perfect? Just a hammer and some heat to bend it? Then Measure it up against the tunnel and re-shape as needed? I'd assume it should be fairly easy to bend since the pieces aren't too thick.

No heat; hammer and a dolly if needed or I have some pliers I’ve made for flange bending and stuff. But it’s not too thick, tack and tap and it’ll go where you want it.