City Racer Carb

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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Threads
65
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7,345
Location
East Hampton, CT
87 FJ60.
Took the plunge and bought a City Racer Carb, @Racer65. Got it hooked up and having some funky issues.
Refer to video for my dialog while I try to start. Apologies lighting is way dark but there’s really not much to see anyhow.
IM is out 4 turns (at sea level), Idle Speed is in a bunch in hopes it just roars to life then I can turn down, Fast Idle is in a bunch as well.

Truck is desmogged, no cat. Also w/ a city racer, it only has one port meant for the Vacuum Advance pot which is one of the brand spanking new ones I found from the company in TX (all sold out now)... do I keep the VCV and the violet BVSV in the system? Fuel decel is out too.



My question is at the end... I imagine I can simply swap the ICS from my stock carb to this one so the carb fan wiring doesn’t require changing around?

And btw, Cheers to a Happy Memorial Day.

Boohoo to you all who don’t dig my chopped arch on my tube bumper. It’ll get cleaned up and caps will be added in time.

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When i first start Ze truck ..voltage is usually under 12V
Once it starts...it goes to where it should be...

seems like zere is a gremlin somewhere since it doesn't move up even after started...not even talking about the sputtering and stuff...

ground issue somewhere?

:banana:

~pulls out popcorn~:popcorn:
 
In your explanation you mentioned that the emissions computer is unplugged. But you didn't say what the 12 V source is for the fuel cut solenoid. Normally its controlled through the emissions computer. (But maybe doesn't require it).

Whatever wire you have coming out of the wiring harness that you've got connected to the FCS, un-connect it and get your voltmeter.

Set the meter to measure DC volts and connect one lead to that wire coming out of the harness, and the other lead to a shiny metal body ground. The meter shouldn't do anything.

Then turn the ignition key to ON (but don't crank the starter) and verify that there's 12 volts shown at your meter.

If the FCS isn't energized, it will partially cut off fuel to the carb.
 
87 FJ60.
Took the plunge and bought a City Racer Carb, @Racer65. Got it hooked up and having some funky issues.
Refer to video for my dialog while I try to start. Apologies lighting is way dark but there’s really not much to see anyhow.
IM is out 4 turns (at sea level), Idle Speed is in a bunch in hopes it just roars to life then I can turn down, Fast Idle is in a bunch as well.

Truck is desmogged, no cat. Also w/ a city racer, it only has one port meant for the Vacuum Advance pot which is one of the brand spanking new ones I found from the company in TX (all sold out now)... do I keep the VCV and the violet BVSV in the system? Fuel decel is out too.



My question is at the end... I imagine I can simply swap the ICS from my stock carb to this one so the carb fan wiring doesn’t require changing around?

And btw, Cheers to a Happy Memorial Day.

Boohoo to you all who don’t dig my chopped arch on my tube bumper. It’ll get cleaned up and caps will be added in time.

View attachment 1711266

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View attachment 1711292

View attachment 1711293



- Plug your emissions computer back in and see what happens , id should help smooth things out

- U Do Not need either BVSV ports using a De-Smog carb , cap off accordingly

- DO NOT switch out the new carb selinoid , it most likly works & using your old one could most likley introduce fine particulate matter into your new carb fuel circuts

it would need a new O-Ring anyway

- also look for a vacuum leak , like u forgot to cap off one or more when u switched carbs ?

let us know if anything outlined above works
 
K, just read thru @wngrog thread when he swapped his to a City Racer too.
I’m pretty confident I won’t screw up swapping the ICS honestly. It’s got a new o-ring on it too... not more than a year old.
Right now my carb fan is hooked up to the intake manifold temp sensor by a stretch of choke cable (its heat safe) so to ground it I’d have to take that section of bracket out of the equation and quite honestly I like it. Clean, straight up mod.

I’ll check vac lines. In my head I’m wondering if the driver VCV is bunk now then the carb spacer vacuum port which goes to it is sucking from one smaller port which I hadn’t capped.
 
I have that same carb and do not ground to the body. IIRC you only need jumper from solenoid to +12v on existing harness. The other spade has nothing on it.
 
I have that same carb and do not ground to the body. IIRC you only need jumper from solenoid to +12v on existing harness. The other spade has nothing on it.
What about the other stuff I mentioned? BVSV? Driver VCV? Fuel decel? Right now I have no AC system in line at all so I’m not worried about the AC idle up.
 
I have that same carb and do not ground to the body. IIRC you only need jumper from solenoid to +12v on existing harness. The other spade has nothing on it.


thats correct ,

the 1 wire FCS on the new carb is self grounding through its out metal body to the carb body

u only need the 12v B+ signal from your green connector going to the 1 wire grey connector on the carb

the ground side of the green connector should be left alone / empty



Is there A chance u have the green carb FCS connector B+ and NEG crossed ?
 
I’m not using either bvsv, but am using two VCVs just like in one the threads I posted in in the link above.

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thats correct ,

the 1 wire FCS on the new carb is self grounding through its out metal body to the carb body

u only need the 12v B+ signal from your green connector going to the 1 wire grey connector on the carb

the ground side of the green connector should be left alone / empty



Is there A chance u have the green carb FCS connector B+ and NEG crossed ?
I had swapped them back and forth a few times so I def could have them crossed. I reread how to figure out which is the 12V and will verify it when kiddo naps tmrw. Dark now, 10:15pm.
 
The leak I mentioned in my post was at the carb base due to the throttle linkage bracket scrubbing on carb body and feeling tight. I filed the bracket down slightly and it fit snug and eliminated the leak.
 
K, thanks again for all those photos. I’ll get on it tmrw hopefully. And @OSS I missed your comment above, yeah I was probably floundering.
I’ll plug the EC back in, verify 12V on the solenoid then check thru the desmog stuff.
Like I said intje video the sound of the truck is so much richer and smooth like it’s finally getting the right flow of fuel.
 
K, thanks again for all those photos. I’ll get on it tmrw hopefully. And @OSS I missed your comment above, yeah I was probably floundering.
I’ll plug the EC back in, verify 12V on the solenoid then check thru the desmog stuff.
Like I said intje video the sound of the truck is so much richer and smooth like it’s finally getting the right flow of fuel.


This FSM has been a essential tool when installing a De-SMoG Carb

let me know if u need a specific system circuit or diagram posted like the Fuel Decel. cut i posted for u


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Matt, I have the fsm.... do you have a City Racer Carb?

The new carb has had many of the ancillary ports and hook ups literally subtracted. Fuel decel included.

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Fel,

Check your ICS. Unplug it. Turn key to ON. Plug it back in and listen for click. If no click, you are using the wrong wire. Try the other one. If no click there, you’ve lost your 12v. You can jumper to the battery + temporarily for verification. Don’t change the ICS. It’s new. It’s good. I’d bet money on it. Verify before you change out.
 
Unless I’m doing it wrong I’m getting nothing from the plug fir the ICS w/ ignition ON, meg end on metal and positive end in either female end. Kinda stumped. Like I’ve said before, electrical diagnostics confuses the crud out of me. I’ll try to call someone once phone is charged up.
 

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