City Racer Carb

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I have a question hoping someone here can help. I need a carb rebuild on my 60. I’m interested in getting the city racer carb in the meantime. My truck is not desmogged but I don’t need smog testing in my county. If I were to go the city racer route would I have to completely desmog my truck? I guess my question is… I understand I wouldn’t pass smog with this carb, but would I have to go through the process of desmogging and removing all the lines?
@FJ60LC Not at all. Just plug the vacuum hoses that don’t have a match on the new carburetor.


i agree NO ,


although some SMOG parts like the Accel. fuel cut vacuum switch are required no matter what way u go ..........
 
Engine fuse was blown. Once kiddo isn’t napping (he’s in the room closest to the driveway) I’ll try to fire her up. :)
Found the positive side of the connector and it’s now labeled.

@gt7058a I’m not opening that thread, keeping HAC... I’ve looked awhile back and I’m simply seeking one question answered... that thread and the desmog thread are life suckers.
X port is going where?

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Rememeber it was discovered by @OSS and @mwebfj60 that the dizzy vcv schematic shown in this thread was incorrect. It makes it look like x and y are t’d, when in fact, at the factory they built them with X and Z t’d together. X and Z t’d together is the correct way to isolate the dizzy completely when the truck is shut off. This image is from @OSS post

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Is there a drawing of his vacuum routing. I’m so confused if the one Comet has in this thread is incorrect. I feel like the only way I’ll get this vacuum routing correct is from a drawing
 
this is a relevant topic :

- if you have
a 1/79 - 9/87 2F you currently have a 2 wire FCS / fuel cut solenoid , with a unique oem toyota connector plug also on it

- 100% of all replacement 2F carbs OEM , made in japan quality aftermarket , or china crap on Ebay , ALL come with a single wire solenoid FCS

- this is and could be a issue on ANY carb job replace it does not get properly grounded


- now there is a option and a choice here at the SKUNK-WORKS Laboratory


- Part
# 21062-61060 LIVES once AGAIn , with the correct OEM TOYOTA connector plugs also to be clear ..........

- my KIT comes with a harness side connector plug also and oem crush ring gasket too ,

- this included harness side plug kit allows ANY 2F 1/75-9/87 single wire to be updated , upgraded and simply correct once again




see tech link below ,

if you have any questions post them here or PM me

thanks

matt







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@Pr86yota check closely. One is incorrect and one is correct. I was using the City Racer carb and it only has one vacuum port. I drew vacuum from the intake if I remember correctly. The drawings are correct but my first picture is incorrect. Use the @ when citing members. That way Comet shows up as @Comet and I can get a notification that there are issues. I hope what I have up is of help. If it is wrong, I need to know so I can correct it on my thread for future members.
 
@Pr86yota check closely. One is incorrect and one is correct. I was using the City Racer carb and it only has one vacuum port. I drew vacuum from the intake if I remember correctly. The drawings are correct but my first picture is incorrect. Use the @ when citing members. That way Comet shows up as @Comet and I can get a notification that there are issues. I hope what I have up is of help. If it is wrong, I need to know so I can correct it on my thread for future members.
@Comet @ToyotaMatt

Thank you, this is the only pic showing up and it says old pic deleted- but I would like to confirm. So is this vacuum diagram the correct one and the same way OSS has it set up?

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@Comet @ToyotaMatt

Thank you, this is the only pic showing up and it says old pic deleted- but I would like to confirm. So is this vacuum diagram the correct one and the same way OSS has it set up?

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i have a better IDEA :idea:


lets set you up for success from here on out with a 2F emissions FSM screen shots of the related sub - system

then you will have the keys to your kingdom you need .....

hang tite , ill post below
 
@Comet @ToyotaMatt

Thank you, this is the only pic showing up and it says old pic deleted- but I would like to confirm. So is this vacuum diagram the correct one and the same way OSS has it set up?

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I think these are all the particulars pages you will need

If I missed one or you need additional ones please don’t be shy simply ask me and I’ll get to them as soon as I can


I highly suggest you source a real physical print media paper copy of the red 2F emissions FSM manual

- stay AWAY from Ghetto PDF images or coppies there more often then NOT incomplete and also , working on your FJ60 via a i-phone screen is not THE WAY

- having a paper print media copy sadled over the fender cover you have in place is the fast accurate easy to understand and correctly diagnose WAY

It’s simply essential material to have in house on hand if you own any year fj60
 
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I have a question hoping someone here can help. I need a carb rebuild on my 60. I’m interested in getting the city racer carb in the meantime. My truck is not desmogged but I don’t need smog testing in my county. If I were to go the city racer route would I have to completely desmog my truck? I guess my question is… I understand I wouldn’t pass smog with this carb, but would I have to go through the process of desmogging and removing all the lines?

My recommendation while Fuji carb is loose/new - check the ICS o-ring, majority of the new carbs I have seen have a split, deformed o-ring. Also recommend swapping the float out for a genuine Aisan. I've had more than one float absorb the water/fuel and become unbuoyant and they will flood.
 
My recommendation while Fuji carb is loose/new - check the ICS o-ring, majority of the new carbs I have seen have a split, deformed o-ring. Also recommend swapping the float out for a genuine Aisan. I've had more than one float absorb the water/fuel and become unbuoyant and they will flood.


Nate speaks the TRUTH on the Idle Cut SOLONOID O-ring topic , i have experienced this first hand myself , ALWAY install and use a NEW OEM FCS o-ring , but make dam sure u lube it with petrolum jelly , di-electric grease or heck even burts bees chap stick works in a pinch , i have used ,


for everyone's tech info TOTOTA still offers the FCS tiny o-ring , part #



Also here is the aluminum fcs crush ring gasket part #

It’s important never to re-use one due to a potential and likley fuel leak

Anyone telling anyone it’s safe to re-use this crush ring does not know wjat there taking about I have had them leak and seep if I re-used them

Not ever again is my rule


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Nate speaks the TRUTH on the Idle Cut SOLONOID O-ring topic , i have experienced this first hand myself , ALWAY install and use a NEW OEM FCS o-ring , but make dam sure u lube it with petrolum jelly , di-electric grease or heck even burts bees chap stick works in a pinch , i have used ,


for everyone's tech info TOTOTA still offers the FCS tiny o-ring , part #



Also here is the aluminum fcs crush ring gasket part #

It’s important never to re-use one due to a potential and likley fuel leak

Anyone telling anyone it’s safe to re-use this crush ring does not know wjat there taking about I have had them leak and seep if I re-used them

Not ever again is my rule


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But if you're in a bind it's aluminum, so hammer flat if it has burrs and flip around - re-use :)
 
No no no Nate no !

That’s not the FSM toyota way … 🤣
It's the when you drive these trucks constantly and need a fix in the middle of nowhere way. But i've never had issues with the ICS leaking either, probably because I use a new crush washer everytime, ha!
 
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