City Racer Carb

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Sorry for delay. Works been crazy.

Driver side vcv has x to air cleaner

image.webp


Y goes to carb base


image.webp


Z goes to firewall hard line that goes to charcoal canister on passenger side

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And S goes to a T joining line to carb primary vac on back and dizzy primary vac advance. I skipped the bvsv because I didn’t think mine was working. I ordered new one with intention to replace on next coolant flush. I do use the vtv on dizzy side of T.
 
Yes. It would connect between the carb primary (only port on back) and the T.

S to T, T to outer bvsv, inner bvsv to carb. Other end of the T goes to vtv, vtv goes to dizzy primary vac advance.
 
I’m pretty sure you can still buy that bvsv still.
 
Sorry a tad criptic... was w/ my son and my friends son driving back from a zoo. Kids were being annoying as heck.
I’ll def try plumbing like you said @gt7058a, thank you for that... retaining what and why on vacuum line isn’t something I excel at.
 
As per my standard operating procedure, I have shamelessly stolen these from some great MUD member @OSS I'm sure posted this. I plugged up everything for the charcoal canister but plumbed the dizzy. Only change is I used the HAC port on the distributor rather than the port closest to the distributor housing. Pictures evade me at the moment.

VCV with charcoal canister included..webp


Bad picture with bad info deleted.

View attachment 1721069

BlackBearToyota.webp
 
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Rememeber it was discovered by @OSS and @mwebfj60 that the dizzy vcv schematic shown in this thread was incorrect. It makes it look like x and y are t’d, when in fact, at the factory they built them with X and Z t’d together. X and Z t’d together is the correct way to isolate the dizzy completely when the truck is shut off. This image is from @OSS post

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Sweet! Thank you. This is what I get for shamelessly stealing stuff from the internet. I am going to delete that picture from my computer and my memory. In fact, I will delete it from this post too. I hate spreading bad info.

Comet.
 
Rememeber it was discovered by @OSS and @mwebfj60 that the dizzy vcv schematic shown in this thread was incorrect. It makes it look like x and y are t’d, when in fact, at the factory they built them with X and Z t’d together. X and Z t’d together is the correct way to isolate the dizzy completely when the truck is shut off. This image is from @OSS post

View attachment 1721116
But I thought in that thread they both decided they were wrong?
 
This post is why I pulled as much stuff from my engine as I possible could. Long live the 1970's and smog.........

I'm going to lurk for awhile or until I find an answer for Felicity. Then I'm going to make a lot of noise, a lot. :worms:

T.
 
We had a good discussion about it here...page 2 I think.

Chasing a vacuum leak

Post #44 in this attachment supports what I posted (which was also from another OSS post) - and post 49 is what I believe is the correct schematic not the one shown in this thread higher up:

@OSS post #44

B6DAD24C-F272-4287-A1EA-95BEAE35A2F9.webp
 
@OSS correct me if I’m wrong. It was confusing when I read it last fall but I thought I finally figured it out and got it right (see reposting of your posts). Maybe you and @mwebfj60 never really agreed on the outcome. I’ve seen a lot of stock fj60s (pictures from many threads) that show x and z teed together with y going to the air cleaner supporting what I thought you had concluded.
 
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@NeverGiveUpYota whenever I’ve seen pictures of your truck dizzy vent vcv it’s always been hooked up the “correct” way as far as I can tell. See your post #389 I think 2nd picture down in you badass thread. X and z are teed together and go to the dizzy port, y goes solo to the air cleaner. So you are good to go from my perspective.
 
Thank you guys. Routed the carb side as noted above by @Comet. Dizzy side is as you said @evilorgoodtwin.
I do have tonlaugh at the OCD we all have... some more some less but we all have to have at least a sizeable dose or we would’ve be driving these beasts. I just spent far longer than I want to admitfutzing w/ trying to get my passenger window down into the rubber that sits in the channel that raises the glass up and down. I now have it indoors and trying to decide what to put on it to soften the hard rubber. Friend might have wintergreen but pondering slathering a bit of silicone on it overnight just to see if it helps.
 
Yes that picture above of my blue VCV clipped under the air cleaner next to the mirror polished valve cover shows the vac hoses connected correctly.
 
I have a question hoping someone here can help. I need a carb rebuild on my 60. I’m interested in getting the city racer carb in the meantime. My truck is not desmogged but I don’t need smog testing in my county. If I were to go the city racer route would I have to completely desmog my truck? I guess my question is… I understand I wouldn’t pass smog with this carb, but would I have to go through the process of desmogging and removing all the lines?
 

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