Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ (1 Viewer)

[Elkhorn1]

I just replaced (rebuilt) injectors in my 3b. I pieced together the bleeding operation from bits and pieces here, but I had replaced lines all the way to the tank, so it took some doing. What reall helped was I installed a clear racor Separator in the engine bay. I had a buddy pressurize the tank with a rag and an air hose the then I bled all the air out withe racor flipped upside down, ran through almost a gallon of fuel to get all the bubbles out. Then ( using pressure still) bled the fuel filter nipple, then the injection pump. Then he cranked it for at least 90 second until I had fuel through the nearly disconnected lines at the injectors. Then I could start it, and bled each injector singley, now it runs great. I was amazed at how much fuel I had to bleed to get clean fuel through the pump.
I installed a $30 rad hose heater which made a world of difference and fit well, I live in Helena, and if it's as cold in Boise as it is here, I would consider a new block or hose heater.( maybe you have one) Mine gets the head hot to the touch in a couple hours. It's stupidly simple, but here's a photo anyway. Maybe help? Good luck!

 

[duncanrm]

I installed a $30 rad hose heater which made a world of difference and fit well

Fascinating photo.. thanks.. I assume this is plugged into the mains power supply of your house when you're parked?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I think I've got the same heater, although it doesn't seem to be working. Yes, it plugs into 110v house power. 12 deg. F here today. (-11 C)

After a few weeks of waiting, I finally received the hoses I ordered from Cruiserparts. Still had to visit NAPA, I was missing a section of piping on the lower hose portion. Was able to find a coolant heater that fit nicely and joined the two lower hoses.

View attachment 908129

Good to know, about the amount of purging req'd, maybe I've not done a proper bleed.

I'm going to step back and re-check the vavle clearance (cold) and injection timing, I'll need to make an 'inspection pipe' per the FSM.





Dan

 

[Elkhorn1]

Fascinating photo.. thanks.. I assume this is plugged into the mains power supply of your house when you're parked?

Yes it plugs into AC power. Quite common here, I assume you are not from northern latitudes..
I puzzled over which kind to buy and chose the radiator hose heater because it was available at NAPA and easier than freeze plug removal. It works super. I just noticed my injection lines aren't even on the truck in this photo. Doesn't run so well like that....

 

[duncanrm]

Yes it plugs into AC power. Quite common here, I assume you are not from northern latitudes..

No.. opposite side of the earth.. Forecast for tomorrow is 107deg (F).. I'll have to unplug my block heater tonight.. lol

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I tested my glow plugs and they're ded, dead; 12V for minutes, and nothing.

While waiting for the new glow plugs, I pulled the valve cover and checked valve clearances. I must have not adjusted them, or when I did, I was drunk, or, the lifter rod wasn't seated in the adjustment screw socket, 'cause they were waaay out of spec.


The stars aligned today, the power went out at work around 1045, took an early lunch, ran home and found that the glow plugs I ordered on the 28th of Dec. showed up finally, as did a section of injection line for checking the timing of the injection pump.

Went back to work and the power was still out, so was sent home for the day.

Tested the new plugs and 15-20 seconds gets them red-hot.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Installed the new glow plugs, checked the injection pump timing (cut a 50mm long section of line, attached to #1 injection output off of pump, fuel squirts up out at 14 deg. BTDC) per the FSM and that checked out.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Hooked the injection lines back up, purged the air out, cranked it over a few times and purged some more...then glowed for 15-20 seconds and



finally!

 

[duncanrm]

Woohoo Well done. Full steam ahead now.

A tiny bit of air in lines perhaps? It hesitates every now and again.. a good run should clean that out.. when you have a radiator attached

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks.

Yeah, I'm running out of a one-gallon jug right now, I need to mount the fuel tank and run a supply line. And you can see the mess of wires. I've plenty to do, but it's nice to know that the engine does run.

 

[duncanrm]

I've plenty to do, but it's nice to know that the engine does run.

Yeah I know the feeling. A big relief. Did the oil pressure come up OK?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Yeah I know the feeling. A big relief. Did the oil pressure come up OK?

I don't have the gauge hooked up. I do have the low-oil-pressure shut-off hooked up to the EDIC and it didn't kill it...

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Not much progress this weekend. Managed to get the fuel tank fill and vent lines plumbed. I need a new fill hose as the one I have is hard as a rock, got it to work, but it needs replaced.

Cleaned out the sedimenter, checked the float and it works. Dug around in the mess of the BJ60 harness left-overs and I think I found the mating plug for it. Does it just activate a light on the dash? So a ground and 12v to a light? When the float, floats, it closes the circuit and lights up the light? I'll need to find a light and a spot to put it on the dash. I mounted the sedimenter to the frame and plumbed the fuel supply line. Need to fabricate mounts for securing the line. I just plugged the fuel return, maybe I'll put an aux tank in some day and use that as the 'fill' just use a transfer pump to go from the aux tank to the main tank.


Installed new seals on the transfer case prop shaft flanges, bolted up the rear driveline. Not sure if the length needs modified or not. The slip joint is extended a bit more than it was on the 60. I'll let the drive-line shop determine if it needs lengthened when I go get the front shaft done.

Drained and filled the radiator for the umpteenth time. I can't get the drain-bung to seal. I've tried teflon tape, gas-pipe thread sealant, haven't tried pipe dope yet, that's probably next. I thought the fitting was tapered pipe threads, but it may be straight threads, it threads up to the hilt. I might try to find a new tapered fitting to screw into it...

 

[MOTOV8R]

What's next on the punch list before it can make a trip around the block?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I need to bleed the air out of the fuel supply again. Last night I drained the tank, just to see what came out as leaf-cutter bees had plugged all the vent lines.

I'm also waiting on getting a chunk of exhaust pipe and flange. Dumping the exhaust directly out of the manifold is making the side of the engine black.

I replaced the radiator drain with a 3/8" nipple and a cap, we'll see if that stops the leak.

So, maybe this weekend? There are still no brakes, so not sure I'll go around the block, but I want too...I need to get some new, longer flex lines to go from the frame down to the axles and a couple of short hard lines, then flush and bleed.

All the wiring for the EDIC and glow plugs is still a mess, but it could probably make a trip around the block.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I will be up that way in April. I'll let you know the exact dates and drop by.

 

[MrMoMo]

Wow, just found this thread - awesome!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

The wiring is sloooowly getting cleaned up, still have a few to do, but I've managed to get the components (starter contacts, glow plug relay, glow contacts, fuel control relay) mounted, all the wiring shortened and terminated for said components, have a working temp. gauge but that's it for working gauges.

I'll be moving on to getting the brakes working next. I sourced a vacuum tank and need to get some vacuum rated hose and plumb the pump to the vacuum tank and the tank to the brake booster.Also need to get some new soft lines that go from the frame to the axles.

I did start it, put it in gear, drove forward a foot and let it roll back (block of wood as a wheel chock) so 'technically' I drove it....

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So I have the bj60 brake components, vacuum reservoir, master cylinder/booster assembly. I also have the 45 components, master with a booster in it already, and was planning on using it. I sourced a 40 series vacuum reservoir. Just wondering why the big difference n volume between the 60 vacuum tank and the 40?

Also what's the switch on the vacuum reservoir activate? The brake light (like the master cylinder fluid low-level)?

System schematics below:

 

[lostmarbles]

.......Also what's the switch on the vacuum reservoir activate? The brake light (like the master cylinder fluid low-level)?...

On my 1979 BJ40 it activates an alarm buzzer when the vacuum level is too low