Charcoal Canister - Great Option! (2 Viewers)

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So I ordered the Auto Zone canister and it is actually a Denso with Toyota part number.

That doesnt match the description of the Duralast VC4054 from auto zones site. Is that it in the picture? Is it possible someone threw their cleaned up used one in the duralast box, returned it and the store just put it back on the shelf?
 
i cleaned mine using the fsm method, i also sprayed a bit of penetrating oil into the inlet and outlet to lube the check valves, they seem to be working great because i can hear them open and close. no fuel vapor when i open the gas cap now.
 
No, this canister was drop shipped from 'Wells Vehicle Electronics' to Auto Zone's distribution center. It was then dropped into an Auto Zone box and shipped to me (someone left ALL the paperwork in the box). It did appear to be dusted off but its unused. I'm thinking that this Wells company may have bought Toyotas inventory of vapor canisters - since the dealer has none.

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old left - new right

Auto Zone gives you $20 gift card for every $100 you spend. So, thats $40 off.
 
I am the latest one to do this mod. The canister will be picked up from Autozone tomorrow (ordered today...FAST!). The manager even gave me two 1/2" fuel hoses for FREE, he said those are left-over from stock. Pretty good services from Autozone. The Toyota stealer wanted $45 for those 2 hoses, WTF! I told them go to hel*

I plan to drill a hole at the bottom of the canister for the vapor venting, try to keep the original design. That could the fuel smell that some members got at high attitude when the canister is boiling & venting inside the hood instead of at the bottom of the vent hose. :clap:
 
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Agreed - there is plenty of speculation on this thread that it was perhaps doing more than that and I figured I'd post since I might well be the only person here who bought both a new OEM and new GM (neither of which did anything as my original CC was still 'working').

At high altitude where I live, at least on my truck, it is pretty simple. Get the engine temps above 185 and there will be some fuel smell. Prolonged temps over 190 and you get more smell for longer.

I'll be doing the 15k oil (or whatever) in the fan clutch for starters and will go from there.

I did change my canister, and it cure my gas tank vapor, however I do get the fuel smell at altitude and the smell is coming from my new canister, I have done the fan clutch, new radiator cap. I am presently only using premium gas, time will tell...afer the next trip!
 
I've had my Amazon.com one one for 5 months now. The slight gas smell went away ever since I installed it but last week I had a slow crawl up a mountain with 4000 foot elevation gain + high temps and I had fuel smell, boiling gas in the gas tank, high pressure in the charcoal canister, and massive vapor release from the fuel fill spout.

I'm going to do the 20000cst oil in the fan clutch (or just get Landtank's blue fan clutch) and four hood vents, two in and two out. I've just sent off my first oil sample to Blackstone for analysis. The boiling gas was with 7000 miles on some Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. Going to try to deal with this issue across the board and get the engine cool and the boiling gas situation eliminated.
 
I've had my Amazon.com one one for 5 months now. The slight gas smell went away ever since I installed it but last week I had a slow crawl up a mountain with 4000 foot elevation gain + high temps and I had fuel smell, boiling gas in the gas tank, high pressure in the charcoal canister, and massive vapor release from the fuel fill spout.

I have the GM Cc also. Had similar symptoms at high temps and long slow uphill in low range. Even had fuel coming out of the vent at the bottom of the GM CC. My solution was (and still is) to release the fuel cap every 30 mins or so. The reduction in pressure solves the vapor/smell/overflow problem, and it's free. This is on a 60, so different than your 80. My cooling system is in great shape. I'm sure you are on the right track that excessive underhood temps are driving this phenomena, so not saying your solution is wrong, just offering up a different solution that seems to be working ok for me for now.
 
Thanks to Jeeper. I finally get to finish this vapor canister mod and free fuel vapor hoses for $35 from Autozone. No more gas vapor pollution at gas fill up and hopefully improve the mileage as well.

I drill a few holes around the perimeter of the bottom for drainage in case of water intrusion during engine wash. Another hole at the center of the bottom and attach the OEM bottom hose to the Duralast vapor canister VC120( this may get rid of the fuel smell that some members are complaining about this GM canister)> I think Mr T did it right with the bottom hose for venting?? and use only the upper OEM clamp due to space limitation. overall, it fit well but tight. :cheers:
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Thanks to Jeeper. I finally get to finish this vapor canister mod and free fuel vapor hoses for $35 from Autozone. No more gas vapor pollution at gas fill up and hopefully improve the mileage as well.

I drill a few holes around the perimeter of the bottom for drainage in case of water intrusion during engine wash. Another hole at the center of the bottom and attach the OEM bottom hose to the Duralast vapor canister VC120( this may get rid of the fuel smell that some members are complaining about this GM canister)> I think Mr T did it right with the bottom hose for venting?? and use only the upper OEM clamp due to space limitation. overall, it fit well but tight. :cheers:


Just curious how this mod will possibly improve MPG. This is on my to do list but I didnt think it would improve MPG.
 
Vapor canisters are designed to reduce emissions and increase fuel efficiency. These canisters block the emissions, which consist of hydrocarbon vapor, and send them back to the engine to be burned properly. The canister traps the gases (which form even when the vehicle isn’t running) and stores them. When the vehicle is started up again, the gases are sent back to the engine and burned for fuel.

So the stored fume helps save your fuel ONLY if the canister is working properly like it's supposed to be.
 
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Interesting, it thought it had more to do pollution. Perhaps i need to move this higher on my to do list regardless.
 
Tried to buy the Vapor Canister from Autozone this morning and no love, they are all sold out with no expected restock date.
 
How does the bottom hole, missing on my Amazon.com version, affect this?

The bottom vent on the OEM CC kicks in when there's too much pressure, and fuel will come out of the hole. The GM version has a series of "slots" around the bottom that serves the same function.
 
The GM canister vents at the slots at the bottom of the canister which will be inside the hood right at the driver side. That's probably why you guys are complaining the fuel smell at high attitutde. I think it will help a lot if you attach the OEM hose to the GM canister & vent it to the bottom of the engine instead. Just drill a hole like one of the member here did.
 
I am a little unsure of the mechanics of the charcoal filter but I would think that there would be very very little increased gas mileage by going to a new one. The reason active charcoal works is that it has so much surface area the things you filter through it bind to the charcoal, the fumes leave the canister if it is in good working condition would be mostly air. The big benefit to venting to atmosphere would be the check valve, it wouldn't allow the gas in your tank to "evaporate off"

I have pressure building in my system and when I went up through Telluride and up over the pass, I had gas shooting out of the filler neck when I went to release some of the pressure.

What would happen if you just took the charcoal canister out of the equation and took the line from the tank and plumbed it directly to the line to the motor? Would this give you the check valve and also the benefits of actually reclaiming the vapor instead of having it scrubbed by the canister?

I have no problem with the Toyota Canister but since it is discontinued is this an opportunity to fix a system like EGR which is actually more harmful to the motor than if you didn't have it?
 
Drove over Tioga pass yesterday, through Death Valley today, and zero issues with the canister whatsoever Temps over 114F outside at times with the AC blowing ice, and engine never over 195. Over 10,000' pass, and 200' below sea level. No worries. Now my VSS crapped out, but that is another story. Will be driving over Independence Pass at 12,000' in a few days, and will see how that goes.

:cheers: from Williams AZ on the way to the Grand Canyon tomorrow. Roadtrip!

Steve
 

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