Builds chap79's Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[chap79]

I wonder if there is a company that makes speedo gears to correct for larger tires?

I thought Slee used to sell them? I don’t need one though, my speedo is about spot on with 4:88’s and 37’s.

 

[Dragos80]

His speedo is spot on. Speedo.

 

[chap79]

It’s been a while since I’ve gotten out and done any wheeling. But this weekend we went out to Big Bear and ran 3N69, Gold Mountain. I’ve run this trail many times and have never had any issues. Usually all you need is 33’s, sliders, skid plates, and a rear locker. With that setup you can take the easier lines and not have any real issues.

We had a built dual locked 40, my 80, a dual locked armored 80 on 285’s, and an opened diffed heep in our group. (I didn’t know the Jeep was opened diff until he was stuck on the first obstacle.) In any case, even with a good spotter, I managed to catch my rear driveshaft on a rock while cresting the ledge shelf taking the far left line.

In all of our groups defense, this trail is currently in the roughest condition I’ve ever seen it in. No pics of the trail, just my dented rear driveshaft. This has not been my year for driveshafts.

 

[chap79]

Round 3. We’ll see how long these ones last.

 

[Dragos80]

You got shafted more than anyone here.

 

[chap79]

I can blame the spotter right?

 

[Dragos80]

Are you still laughing at me because I said I hate rocks and I will not go up GM again? Mine sits lower than yours anyway.

 

[chap79]

Are you still laughing at me because I said I hate rocks and I will not go up GM again? Mine sits lower than yours anyway.

You should read the rest of the trip report. At least I still have what’s left of my exhaust, didn’t bend any more control arms (well not on this trip), or a slider, or put another dent in a bumper.

 

[Overlandeffex]

You should read the rest of the trip report. At least I still have what’s left of my exhaust, didn’t bend any more control arms (well not on this trip), or a slider, or put another dent in a bumper.

Hey, hey... easy. Your going to make the wife think I was really rally racing that thing.

 

[chap79]

I swapped caster plates from Slee’s to Landtank’s via Wit’s End this weekend. The reason for this was to change the caster angle by rotating the axle on its center axis vice piveting it on the rear mounting bolt.
In my case for correcting for a 4” lift, it resulted it a few more degrees of caster. Still need to get over to the alignment shop for actual numbers but i could feel the improvement when I drove it afterwards.

To mount the new plates I first welded back in the material that was originally removed during the previous plates installation. Grounded it all down for a nice flush fit. Next I tack welded the new plates in place, followed with a few beads burned in to hold it in place. Then drilled the new holes as required with a right angle drill. Torqued down the new bolts to 127 ft lbs with a little red loctite for good measure.

 

[baldilocks]

Please post your castor results after you take it to a shop. I have Slee plates, 5” front lift and less than 1* castor angle. A cheap solution is always good.

Is your pinion angle still good for the front DC shaft? Mine is perfect with the deficient castor readings. This fact has left me concluding that in order to do it right and maintain proper pinion angle with a full 4* of castor, a cut an turn is necessary.

 

[chap79]

Please post your castor results after you take it to a shop. I have Slee plates, 5” front lift and less than 1* castor angle. A cheap solution is always good.

Is your pinion angle still good for the front DC shaft? Mine is perfect with the deficient castor readings. This fact has left me concluding that in order to do it right and maintain proper pinion angle with a full 4* of castor, a cut an turn is necessary.

Pinion angles of my front DC shaft (not on a flat driveway)

My caster is at 1* currently. To get to 4* I’d have to cut and turn plus design new radius arms or pursue a 3 link. The tie rod is just in the way for any other solution.

 

[baldilocks]

Pinion angles of my front DC shaft (not on a flat driveway)
View attachment 1782015 View attachment 1782014
View attachment 1782019

My caster is at 1* currently. To get to 4* I’d have to cut and turn plus design new radius arms or pursue a 3 link. The tie rod is just in the way for any other solution.

Thanks for the feedback. So, not worth it for me to switch castor plates.

Yes, cut and turn, high steer and front track bar riser at the axle is the proper solution.

OR - just get used to the way it is.

 

[chap79]

I would suggest you drive a truck with the other plates and decide for yourself. I can “feel” the difference. The truck is less darty on the road and feels more planted while cornering. I honestly wish I would have measured the angles before I changed the caster plates to see the difference.

 

[landtank]

hope you don't mind me adding some tech for my plates.

my 4" plates are centered for what I consider a 4" lift over stock which would be a front center hub to flare measurement of 24.5".

At that height i expect around 3* of caster. Now as you increase in height the amount of loss in caster increases exponentially with lift. So you loose caster faster than you gain height.

glad you saw an improvement

 

[chap79]

hope you don't mind me adding some tech for my plates.

my 4" plates are centered for what I consider a 4" lift over stock which would be a front center hub to flare measurement of 24.5".

At that height i expect around 3* of caster. Now as you increase in height the amount of loss in caster increases exponentially with lift. So you loose caster faster than you gain height.

glad you saw an improvement

Rick, please feel free to contribute. Your input is always highly valued.

I had to go back through my thread to check my numbers, 25” front hub center to bottom of flare. Again, I know and fully understand every rig is different and other’s mileage may vary. This has been a great change for me and I would do it again.

(Note to self; when time is available go to a different shop for an alignment. I truly didn’t trust the outcome of Express Tire and will readdress my alignment myself.)



Harley

 

[Overlandeffex]

Milo Johnson on Quince

 

[landtank]

while ever truck is different in many ways hhe relationship between ride height and caster is pretty consistant. At 25" id put you truck at a 4.5" and would expect caster to be around 2*. Depending on the truck's rake (stink bug) it could be a little lower but im thinking is at least 1.8*.

 

[chap79]

while ever truck is different in many ways hhe relationship between ride height and caster is pretty consistant. At 25" id put you truck at a 4.5" and would expect caster to be around 2*. Depending on the truck's rake (stink bug) it could be a little lower but im thinking is at least 1.8*.

My truck has a healthy rake, rear is at 26” with an extra heavy rate spring while empty.

 

[baldilocks]

while ever truck is different in many ways hhe relationship between ride height and caster is pretty consistant. At 25" id put you truck at a 4.5" and would expect caster to be around 2*. Depending on the truck's rake (stink bug) it could be a little lower but im thinking is at least 1.8*.

My hub to fender distance is pretty much the same at about 25”. If your castor plates provide @chap79 1.8* of castor, I would certainly be interested in a set. That would be decent improvement for me.