Not on my '97, engages regardless of seatbelt. What year is yours?
CDL Actuator Fun (1 Viewer)
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93. It must have been a coincidence. It just engaged w/o the seatbelt a minute ago.
I just had a day this weekend of fun with my CDL.
Just a synapses, my diff center diff light worked when engaged and it was the diff lock stayed engaged. I tried everything figure 8's, rocking back and forth but sill locked. Disconnected the battery and still locked. So I powered the actuator manually with the harness 1/4 pin on the relay (disconnected). And it worked. So I tried to lock the center differential lock again and let it sit for 15 minutes and tried to unlock but it was stuck again.
I'll tell you what I've learned with hours looking at and working on my CDL problem.
I'd like to thank the information posted on this site for tons of help
Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) - Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures
Okay so what I've learned;
If the motor will run by applying voltage to 1 and 4 off the harness (disconnected from the really box)..... this means your actuator is good.
If your Motor is good then it has to be your relay. My relay checked out from all the test that this website told me to do. But I replaced the relay and I've had not had a problem since.
I didn't have a problem with the lights on the dash. That meant that the switches were reading correctly, and if you have something flashing or not turning on when you feel that the truck is locked, the. It's one of the 2 sensors.
Just a synapses, my diff center diff light worked when engaged and it was the diff lock stayed engaged. I tried everything figure 8's, rocking back and forth but sill locked. Disconnected the battery and still locked. So I powered the actuator manually with the harness 1/4 pin on the relay (disconnected). And it worked. So I tried to lock the center differential lock again and let it sit for 15 minutes and tried to unlock but it was stuck again.
I'll tell you what I've learned with hours looking at and working on my CDL problem.
I'd like to thank the information posted on this site for tons of help
Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) - Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures
Okay so what I've learned;
If the motor will run by applying voltage to 1 and 4 off the harness (disconnected from the really box)..... this means your actuator is good.
If your Motor is good then it has to be your relay. My relay checked out from all the test that this website told me to do. But I replaced the relay and I've had not had a problem since.
I didn't have a problem with the lights on the dash. That meant that the switches were reading correctly, and if you have something flashing or not turning on when you feel that the truck is locked, the. It's one of the 2 sensors.
I've read this thread a few times now, and I'm at a loss.
Long story short, the cdl in my 96 quit working about a year ago. I took the actuator out cleaned it up, regressed it and put it back together. No go. At the time I found a used transfer case here local, with less miles than I had on mine, for a good price. Swapped it in and tossed my original case in the back yard. Well, a couple days before xmas , while heading up to payson, it decided to chew a bearing. Limped it home.
I locked the cdl before I pulled that case out of the cruiser and dug up my original case. Removed the actuator from the toasted case and cleaned it up. Swapped it onto the original case. While it was out, tested and discovered that the ball switch was bad. Took that off the toasted case too. Tests fine. I made sure the case going in was locked when I put the actuator on. So both should have been in locked position when installed.
Now case is installed, but I still don't have a functioning cdl. The motor runs and stops whenever I hit the button. I have power at the ball switch, but does not send signal when installed on case. If I jumper the wires my dash light comes on. I took the ball switch out again and it is open until depressing the ball. seems to be functioning. So it would appear to not be moving the shift arm enough to activate the switch?
How do I check to see if the shift fork in the case is stuck. It seems everything electrically is working, (that I can tell)
Any other ideas or options? I'd really like to not have to pull this case out again. I am driving it out to the hammers next month and would like to have the t all functioning.
I have driven it around in circles and up to running temp and bumps and Yadda Yadda trying t unstick it
Long story short, the cdl in my 96 quit working about a year ago. I took the actuator out cleaned it up, regressed it and put it back together. No go. At the time I found a used transfer case here local, with less miles than I had on mine, for a good price. Swapped it in and tossed my original case in the back yard. Well, a couple days before xmas , while heading up to payson, it decided to chew a bearing. Limped it home.
I locked the cdl before I pulled that case out of the cruiser and dug up my original case. Removed the actuator from the toasted case and cleaned it up. Swapped it onto the original case. While it was out, tested and discovered that the ball switch was bad. Took that off the toasted case too. Tests fine. I made sure the case going in was locked when I put the actuator on. So both should have been in locked position when installed.
Now case is installed, but I still don't have a functioning cdl. The motor runs and stops whenever I hit the button. I have power at the ball switch, but does not send signal when installed on case. If I jumper the wires my dash light comes on. I took the ball switch out again and it is open until depressing the ball. seems to be functioning. So it would appear to not be moving the shift arm enough to activate the switch?
How do I check to see if the shift fork in the case is stuck. It seems everything electrically is working, (that I can tell)
Any other ideas or options? I'd really like to not have to pull this case out again. I am driving it out to the hammers next month and would like to have the t all functioning.
I have driven it around in circles and up to running temp and bumps and Yadda Yadda trying t unstick it
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Are you sure the CDL was fully locked when the actuator was installed? We always shift the transfer side manually a couple of times, while turning a drive shaft. Confirm that it's fully moved to the lock position, light on, etc. Then plug in the actuator, run it a couple of times, unplug in locked position. Now install the actuator. The actuator only moves so far, if it's not properly indexed, will not have the range of motion to properly do the job.
When you installed the CDL, did you lock the wheel, meaning with 3 wheels on the ground, lift the remaining wheel and turn to lock it? Read my post 223 here Izzy's amateur hour. If the motor is turning but not locking, could be that even though you installed it locked, the Differential was not. Another check is the grey gear on same post, mine came off on the dead cdl actuator, if I didn’t notice I would have put in the new one without it
That’s my motto, I do it right because I do it twice. 
- Joined
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- Threads
- 274
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- 23,233
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- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #89
Solid work!
OK guys I have read all the write ups on CDL actuator ... mine does not illuminate on the DASH when Tcase is in 4LO but I can feel its engaging ...replaced the indicator switch still no lights... My question is if I don't fix the CDL ACTUATOR with the indicator Lights OFF ....can I still go wheeling? It still engaging on 4LO...what could go wrong with CDL actuator BAD and no indicator lights on DASH?? thanks
ppc
M Go Blue
There are 3 indicator switches on the transfer case. Which one did you replace? Was it the one on the front of the transfer? Did you bypass the the switch by shorting the pins on the wiring harness connector together? That should turn the dash light on no matter what the state of the lock.
Yes you can go wheeling if only only the light is not but be aware that ABS will remain active which could be a safety issue. Also if you forget that the CDL is still locked when back on the pavement that would cause "windup" of the drive line which could cause damage.
hi PPC ... yes I replaced the one in the front of the transfer case...and I also bypass the wiring with paperclip and showed on the Dash the light ON...so I figured it should be the actuator....anyway that would be my only concern the Light and for the ABS still on...but if I go 4LO on tight spots only with low speed ...I would be OK with the ABS ON? thanks Man...
The only real downside is that if you have factory axle lockers, they won't engage until the CDL light is on solid.
You're not going to hurt anything with the ABS on. If you're really worried about it you could pull the ABS fuse.
You're not going to hurt anything with the ABS on. If you're really worried about it you could pull the ABS fuse.
I accidently hit the CDL button and engaged the center diff. Center diff definitely is locked. Now, it won't unlock.
It's done this before, and took awhile before unlocking on its own. Meaning a few turning runs on a dirt road got it to unlock.
Now, it's just stuck and won't unlock. I'd like to remove the actuator and give it a good cleaning and inspection.
I cannot hear the actuator engaging with a helper pushing the CDL switch.
Is it possible to just reach up on top of the transfer case to remove the actuator? How many bolts hold the actuator in place?
Any tips or instructions to remove the actuator appreciated...
Thanks.
It's done this before, and took awhile before unlocking on its own. Meaning a few turning runs on a dirt road got it to unlock.
Now, it's just stuck and won't unlock. I'd like to remove the actuator and give it a good cleaning and inspection.
I cannot hear the actuator engaging with a helper pushing the CDL switch.
Is it possible to just reach up on top of the transfer case to remove the actuator? How many bolts hold the actuator in place?
Any tips or instructions to remove the actuator appreciated...
Thanks.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Just did a set of low range gears yesterday. There are 4 bolts holding the actuator in place, plus a small vent line. It is very hard to get your hand up there without lowering the transfer case. It is also hard to break the actuator loose from the main case as there are no real good points to lever against.
Okay thanks! I've not lowered the transfer case before but have all the tools to do so.
What is the proper procedure to lower the transfer case? Id like to tackle this actuator job but also want to do it properly and safely in terms of lowering the transfer case to get at the actuator.
How far can I lower the TC?
What is the bolt size, length, and thread pitch to lower the transfer-case cross-member enough to access the actuator, please?
Asking for a friend....
Asking for a friend....
Kevin's (Tools R Us) diagrams on this thread are still providing help even after his passing. His write up here helped diagnose my center diff problem. By using this write up I was able to successfully diagnose and repair the transfer case. Turned out to be the actuator. Got a new one from over seas in 4 days at half the price of the only other 2 actuators I could find in the US. I am sure there are a few more out there but as far as I could find there are only 6 new center diff lock actuators left. Maybe an add to the list of no-longer available parts soon. Thanks to Kevin in Cruiser Heaven.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Speaking of Kevin's(Tools R Us) continuing contributions - I recall an idea from him to use some extra long bolts in place of those that hold the transmission crossmember to the frame - to securely hold the entire transmission & transfer case in a lowered position - to gain working room above the TC. I used that idea to help install a new transmission mount. easy - peasy
