CDL Actuator Motor - Can't Reinsert Shaft (1 Viewer)

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Hey Guys,
I took the cap off the actuator motor on my CDL, and I can't get the shaft to reinsert all the way. (Cue the jokes.) It was working fine, I just took off to inspect as I'm regearing my T case.
I've got the two little magnets restrained with their copper wires, and even when I push them back with little picks the shaft won't go in the last 1/4 inch.

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What am I doing wrong? What's the solution here?
Thanks in advance.
 
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My guess is that you need to remove the other cover so you can see what’s going on inside/ line the shaft up.
Also since you have it open, you should clean the armature up where the brushes ride on it.
When I did mine, I used two toothpicks to hold the brushes back out of the way instead of risking, breaking the wires off.
All documented my build thread.
 
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My guess is that you need to remove the other cover so you can see what’s going on inside/ line the shaft up.
Also since you have it open, you should clean the armature up where the brushes right on it.
When I did mine, I used two toothpicks to hold the brushes back out of the way instead of risking, breaking the wires off.
All documented my build thread.

Thanks! Your build thread is 78 pages, any idea what page discusses this? Thanks.
 
Thanks! Your build thread is 78 pages, any idea what page discusses this? Thanks.
It's a good read enjoy it :cool:
Just kidding you right it's hard to find I jumped around a bit and could not find it.
I did find where I was in there the 2nd time and I have the other cover off, it's been a few years but I think all you have to do is spin the amateur as you drop it in.
 
I've got the two little magnets restrained with their copper wires, and even when I push them back with little picks the shaft won't go in the last 1/4 inch.
Those are not magnets, they're spring loaded brushes and are supposed to stay in contact with the armature as it spins. The magnets are glued to the inside of the motor cover housing.
As @Broski mentioned, give the armature a bit of a twist to line it up. Take a time out to clean the contacts on the armature with a pencil eraser.
You'll also want to hold the armature in place as you put the cover back on with the aforementioned magnets, as it will want to pull the armature out.
Those pesky laws of physics again...
 
The only way I could hold that armature in there while reinstalling the cap was to take the cover off of the main body of the actuator and firmly press my thumb against the worm gear on the armature shaft (after it had been reinserted of course). The magnets inside of that cap will yard that sucker out of there so fast!! I rebuild my actuators when installing locked differentials and I tell you what, getting them right was a journey.
 
Thanks, guys.
 
Those are not magnets, they're spring loaded brushes and are supposed to stay in contact with the armature as it spins. The magnets are glued to the inside of the motor cover housing.
As @Broski mentioned, give the armature a bit of a twist to line it up. Take a time out to clean the contacts on the armature with a pencil eraser.
You'll also want to hold the armature in place as you put the cover back on with the aforementioned magnets, as it will want to pull the armature out.
Those pesky laws of physics again...
Thanks, Jon. Can you help me understand which part you're saying I should clean with a pencil eraser? I think I'm just not getting that. Do you mean the shaft that those small brushes (the ones I called magnets) ride against? Or something else? Sorry, I'm a bit confused. Thanks.
 
Thanks, Jon. Can you help me understand which part you're saying I should clean with a pencil eraser? I think I'm just not getting that. Do you mean the shaft that those small brushes (the ones I called magnets) ride against? Or something else? Sorry, I'm a bit confused. Thanks.
Yes, that the area same part I talk about in post #2 the armature.
I used a light scotch bright pad but a pencil eraser may do the trick
 
Yes, that the area same part I talk about in post #2 the armature.
I used a light scotch bright pad but a pencil eraser may do the trick
Thank, 'preciate it.
 
Yes, that the area same part I talk about in post #2 the armature.
I used a light scotch bright pad but a pencil eraser may do the trick
I used to rebuild HO gauge slot cars when I was a kid. That's how I learned about DC motors. My dad taught me the pencil eraser technique. Been using it ever since.
Of course that was before Scotch Brite was invented.
 
Thanks, Jon. Can you help me understand which part you're saying I should clean with a pencil eraser? I think I'm just not getting that. Do you mean the shaft that those small brushes (the ones I called magnets) ride against? Or something else? Sorry, I'm a bit confused. Thanks.
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