CDL Actuator Fun (2 Viewers)

[richardlillard1]

Speaking of Kevin's(Tools R Us) continuing contributions - I recall an idea from him to use some extra long bolts in place of those that hold the transmission crossmember to the frame - to securely hold the entire transmission & transfer case in a lowered position - to gain working room above the TC. I used that idea to help install a new transmission mount. easy - peasy

We have a bin specific for these bolts at the shop, it works quite well and you have a lot more room to work under the truck.

Usually I remove a couple of the bolts in the crossmember, then run the longer ones in until snug. From there, remove a couple more and do the same thing, then remove the final stock bolts and begin lowering the crossmember. We have a few bolts which are threaded all the way and ones with shoulders. If I need maximal room I run in the ones with shoulders last to get as much droop as possible.

 

[rons1957]

Since this is a CDL related thread, thought I'd share my transfer case experiences with a 95 FZJ80.

Shifting to low range did not appear to trigger the CDL lock. No noise, No light on the dash for CDL lock and no neutral indicator when xfer case was in neutral.

Installed the CDL switch into an open slot of the dash using the existing harness. Now I had noise, both the relay and the motor on the transfer case. Still no light on the dash board indicating the diff was locked. When I lifted a front wheel, I could only turn it a bit with the rear wheels still on the ground. Yup, it's locked. Turn off the switch, now I can turn the lifted wheel. CD is locking just fine even though there was no indicator.

Pulled the CDL indicator switch and tested it on the bench with an ohm meter. The circuit did not close when the ball was depressed. Yup, switch not working. Doused it in electrical contact cleaner and exercised it a bit. Switch started working. The circuit would close when the ball was depressed. Reinstall fixed switch and now I get the CDL light on the dash followed by the ABS light when the dash switch depressed. Still not working when shifting to low.

Ordered a couple of cheap switches labeled rear lock indicator as all these switches are the same and the price was a fifth of the cost of the one labeled CDL indicator.

Later on (after the switches arrived) I took what I thought was the L4 indicator switch off and tested it at the bench. It had the same problem. I cleaned it and got it working as well. Put it back in, shift the xfer case to neutral and a new light appears on the dash. Shift to low and still no CDL actuation or indication on the dash.

Pulled the other switch (which was the L4 indicator) and tested it at the bench. It had the same problem. Tried to clean it up. It kind of started working but the ohm meter was showing some resistance where the others did not once they were cleaned and working. Did not want to trust that switch so I installed one of the new ones. Now shifting from high through neutral to low I get the neutral indication and the CDL is now triggered to lock followed by the light showing up on the dash followed by the ABS light. Everything working. Maybe I'll do the pin 7 mod, maybe not. At least everything is working.

The bottom line in this is that ALL THREE transfer case switches were failing and those failing switches were the root of the issues I was seeing. Probably a more common problem than many are aware of. In this case I think it may have been related to the fact that the previous owner never used low range in the years she owned the car.

 

[blurstedflat]

First post! 1992 HZJ manual transmission recent purchase. No CDL instrument light in L4. No CDL instrument light with stock CDL button pressed in H4. No motor noise from transfer case moving in and out of L4. Jacked rear DS tire, moves freely in neutral.

Long story short, I tested every CDL related part in my new rig and basically everything was broken except for the transmission relay maybe. CDL dash button failed continuity checks in off state unless pressed in a little, CDL indicator switch at transfer case failed open/closed checks and was replaced. CDL actuator at transfer case made the smallest of burps when connecting 9v battery to pins 2-3 in either polarity.

Pulled actuator using instructions on Page 1 of this thread.

Looks like moisture from blow off hose (which was not connected to anything just hanging out on top of actuator).

Motor looked good though. Here it is after only a little clean up:

Sprayed parts cleaner all over spring assembly and gears and cleaned up contacts. Greased a little.

I can get the motor to turn the first long little gear off the 9v but am having a hard time assembling the spring/gear part.

I will follow up with questions tomorrow after giving it another shot.

 

[spmarfatia]

Since this is a CDL related thread, thought I'd share my transfer case experiences with a 95 FZJ80.

Shifting to low range did not appear to trigger the CDL lock. No noise, No light on the dash for CDL lock and no neutral indicator when xfer case was in neutral.

Installed the CDL switch into an open slot of the dash using the existing harness. Now I had noise, both the relay and the motor on the transfer case. Still no light on the dash board indicating the diff was locked. When I lifted a front wheel, I could only turn it a bit with the rear wheels still on the ground. Yup, it's locked. Turn off the switch, now I can turn the lifted wheel. CD is locking just fine even though there was no indicator.

Pulled the CDL indicator switch and tested it on the bench with an ohm meter. The circuit did not close when the ball was depressed. Yup, switch not working. Doused it in electrical contact cleaner and exercised it a bit. Switch started working. The circuit would close when the ball was depressed. Reinstall fixed switch and now I get the CDL light on the dash followed by the ABS light when the dash switch depressed. Still not working when shifting to low.

Ordered a couple of cheap switches labeled rear lock indicator as all these switches are the same and the price was a fifth of the cost of the one labeled CDL indicator.

Later on (after the switches arrived) I took what I thought was the L4 indicator switch off and tested it at the bench. It had the same problem. I cleaned it and got it working as well. Put it back in, shift the xfer case to neutral and a new light appears on the dash. Shift to low and still no CDL actuation or indication on the dash.

Pulled the other switch (which was the L4 indicator) and tested it at the bench. It had the same problem. Tried to clean it up. It kind of started working but the ohm meter was showing some resistance where the others did not once they were cleaned and working. Did not want to trust that switch so I installed one of the new ones. Now shifting from high through neutral to low I get the neutral indication and the CDL is now triggered to lock followed by the light showing up on the dash followed by the ABS light. Everything working. Maybe I'll do the pin 7 mod, maybe not. At least everything is working.

The bottom line in this is that ALL THREE transfer case switches were failing and those failing switches were the root of the issues I was seeing. Probably a more common problem than many are aware of. In this case I think it may have been related to the fact that the previous owner never used low range in the years she owned the car.

Hi,

Great info in your post. One quick question,

did your CDL light come on before the ignition? the first turn of the key I mean.

when I first turn my key, but not start the car just yet, I see my rear lock, front lock lights coming up, along with many others. However my CDL light isn't coming up at this point!

when I start the car and put the car in low, I still don't get CDL indicators, however driving the car back and forth makes me feel as if the CDL is locked. but since the lights don't come on, my front and rear lockers don't lock if I try!

so, I want to see what is the significance of CDL light not coming before the start of the car, while other lights do come on. Is it just a bad light bulb in the dash? or the indicator switch at the transfer case?

would like to get it working properly.

Thanks,
Sam

 

[rons1957]

Hi,

Great info in your post. One quick question,

did your CDL light come on before the ignition? the first turn of the key I mean.

when I first turn my key, but not start the car just yet, I see my rear lock, front lock lights coming up, along with many others. However my CDL light isn't coming up at this point!

when I start the car and put the car in low, I still don't get CDL indicators, however driving the car back and forth makes me feel as if the CDL is locked. but since the lights don't come on, my front and rear lockers don't lock if I try!

so, I want to see what is the significance of CDL light not coming before the start of the car, while other lights do come on. Is it just a bad light bulb in the dash? or the indicator switch at the transfer case?

would like to get it working properly.

Thanks,
Sam

I'm not there so I can't check. If it is not coming on, my guess is that the one of the switches is not working. the low/high switch is the trigger for it to come on. I'd check that first. They are not that difficult to get to and remove. You can test continuity with an Ohm meter,. Check all three on the transfer case as long as you are there. Even if they have to be replaced it's not a difficult job.

 

[spmarfatia]

I'm not there so I can't check. If it is not coming on, my guess is that the one of the switches is not working. the low/high switch is the trigger for it to come on. I'd check that first. They are not that difficult to get to and remove. You can test continuity with an Ohm meter,. Check all three on the transfer case as long as you are there. Even if they have to be replaced it's not a difficult job.

low/high switch is the CDL indicator switch you are referring to, right? It's in the top on the transferase. same switch as the reverse switch on some other Toyota trucks..

so, start with that?

Thanks,

 

[rons1957]

low/high switch is the CDL indicator switch you are referring to, right? It's in the top on the transferase. same switch as the reverse switch on some other Toyota trucks..

so, start with that?

Thanks,

Yes, but as long as you are in there you might as well as pull them all and check them. They are easy to repair if repairable and relatively cheap to replace of not repairable. I found none of them a real problem to get at albeit some flexibility is required. Check and clean the connectors while you are at it. Use some electrical contact cleaner, pull the connector and clean both the posts and the plug.

 

[izzyandsue]

Had my old CDL (which had failed) sitting around for about a year of, had repaced it with a pre-enjoyed unit. Finally got to open it up, cleaned up all the old crud, remove rust, sanded and cleaned, re-glued the magnets and replaced the gaskets. Works perfectly, and the link below is for an o-ring that fits the body perfectly for a good water seal, with a little plumbers grease on the surface to easy it in.

Amazon product ASIN B07XCYWFSS

 

[Redclayrob]

Most any “over the Internet diagnosis” is a guess, but it sounds like the motor and locking parts of the actuator run smooth, quickly when they work. Nothing works when it doesn’t work. Most times when things start working with a tap, it’s an electrical connection, in this case probably the brushes or wiper switch? If this is true it should be safe to exercise it, if run enough the contact maybe cleaned and start performing reliably?

Have you confirmed that it’s locking or assuming that the switch is the problem with the lights? Have you removed the switch, exercised and tested it?

I’m not a fan of the breather design and believe that giving the actuator it’s own line has no downside and could protect an expensive part. Other than being slightly hard to access, it’s a simple mod, just a vac cap to close the fitting on the main breather line and enough vac line to route it inside the rig. But most haven’t had a problem with it; so don’t know how important it is?

For most trails that I run, lockers are needed, so for me it’s a critical system and I do what’s needed to keep it in reliably working condition. That said, there is risk involved, there are no replacement parts and it’s a big $$$ assembly to replace, so if you decide to tackle it, work carefully. When working on them the consumables that are needed are grease and silicone sealer.

I keep hearing about this pin 7 mod. Can you explain?? I just installed the CDL switch and no go with the light. It came on for a sec when throwing the 4l shifter but i plan on getting under and listening when i get time.
I need to run for a while with CDL on due to having to pull front driveshaft for serious vibration. My 4in lift is causing me to install manual front hubs to keep it vib free. At least it has cleared it up without the shaft but was told to lock the CDL for now.

 

[ppc]

Pin 7 mod only eliminates the automatic locking of the CDL when shifting to low range. Get the CDL working before you mess with the pin 7 mod. You need to search and read the "hundreds" of threads on the subject.

 

[Ofcrtj]

I accidently hit the CDL button and engaged the center diff. Center diff definitely is locked. Now, it won't unlock.

It's done this before, and took awhile before unlocking on its own. Meaning a few turning runs on a dirt road got it to unlock.

Now, it's just stuck and won't unlock. I'd like to remove the actuator and give it a good cleaning and inspection.

I cannot hear the actuator engaging with a helper pushing the CDL switch.

Is it possible to just reach up on top of the transfer case to remove the actuator? How many bolts hold the actuator in place?

Any tips or instructions to remove the actuator appreciated...

Thanks.

How did you end up solving this? Dealing with the same issue right now.

 

[L450X]

Dealing with CDL issues also and maybe this question might help last poster too.

Q: does anyone happen to know if the actuator “throw” is adjustable without disabling it? There is that nut and shaft facing the rear of truck, could you loosen the nut and rotate the shaft to engage/disengage the CDL and or use it to adjust the “throw” of the motor… say if you took the motor out and maybe didn’t line the gears up quite right before installing??..

 

[roncruiser]

How did you end up solving this? Dealing with the same issue right now.

I did not exactly fully resolve the issue.

I managed to unlock the center diff. I reached up on top of the center diff and disconnected the connector. I applied 12V power to the proper connectors. +12 and ground with a temporary homemade wire/crimp connector. When I applied power the center diff unlocked. I could hear it unlock. It has to be quiet to hear disengagement. When I applied power again the center diff locked up. I did it again to unlock it and left it unlocked.

I've summarized the integrity of the original wiring for the actuator is compromised. What exactly? I don't know. It's likely intermittent in nature.

It was extremely difficult to get my homemade connector hooked up properly.
Getting my hand up on top to feel around to get the small crimps onto the proper metal tabs was no fun.

The thing to do is bypass original wiring and add a momentary switch to apply power to unlock/lock the center diff.

 

[L450X]

I did not exactly fully resolve the issue.

I managed to unlock the center diff. I reached up on top of the center diff and disconnected the connector. I applied 12V power to the proper connectors. +12 and ground with a temporary homemade wire/crimp connector. When I applied power the center diff unlocked. I could hear it unlock. It has to be quiet to hear disengagement. When I applied power again the center diff locked up. I did it again to unlock it and left it unlocked.

I've summarized the integrity of the original wiring for the actuator is compromised. What exactly? I don't know. It's likely intermittent in nature.

It was extremely difficult to get my homemade connector hooked up properly.
Getting my hand up on top to feel around to get the small crimps onto the proper metal tabs was no fun.

The thing to do is bypass original wiring and add a momentary switch to apply power to unlock/lock the center diff.

Had a similar experience on it being “resolved”. Not sure what exactly made it work again but applied battery voltage directly to actuator and in the same breath jiggles the main wire harness connections behind the glove box (this has been the area for a number of my electrical issues).

 

[alia176]

I'm troubleshooting my CDL and wanted to make sure the correct way of hot wiring it for manual operation.

So, it looks like apply POS and GND to term #2 or term #3 in order to make the motor rotate CW or CCW. Or swap the POS/GND to reverse the rotation. Yes?

 

[Malleus]

Correct

 

[alia176]

I realize that a 9vdc battery would do the same trick.

 

[roncruiser]

I'm troubleshooting my CDL and wanted to make sure the correct way of hot wiring it for manual operation.

So, it looks like apply POS and GND to term #2 or term #3 in order to make the motor rotate CW or CCW. Or swap the POS/GND to reverse the rotation. Yes?

View attachment 3427601

Yes.

It's easy to rig up a bypass to control the CDL. Reaching up and over to get at the connector is a pain.

 

[alia176]

Yes.

It's easy to rig up a bypass to control the CDL. Reaching up and over to get at the connector is a pain.

yup, i was able to manipulate the CDL motor. I'm now trying to find a wiring diagram for the the actual CDL switch in the dashboard . I've been looking through the EWD but can't seem to locate it.

 

[roncruiser]

yup, i was able to manipulate the CDL motor. I'm now trying to find a wiring diagram for the the actual CDL switch in the dashboard . I've been looking through the EWD but can't seem to locate it.

In my vehicle, somewhere between the CDL connector and the CDL dashboard switch, there is an open. I can no longer control the actuator using the dashboard control switch using the OEM wiring.

I bypassed the OEM internal wiring and now use a monetary switch to engage/disengage the center diff. I'll connect/integrate the OEM switch with the new wiring when I find some time.