CDL Actuator Fun (1 Viewer)

[RavenTai]

There is still the inrush to contend with, that will be the same whether the motor has a high load or not. A slow blow breaker sized somewhere between inrush and turning current could possibly be found that would get you past normal inrush but if stalled would blow saving the actuator.

I wonder if your problem will wind up being common as these age or is this just an isolated incident?

 

[Riad]

One question, you had to support the tranny with a jack while you lowered the tcase, right?

 

[Tools R Us]

One question, you had to support the tranny with a jack while you lowered the tcase, right?

Supported the crossmember with a floor jack, removed the bolts, installed longer bolts, then lowered the crossmember onto the bolts with the floor jack watching under the truck and hood for wire/hoses/cables getting streched/pinched.

 

[IdahoDoug]

But you wouldn't have to use a jack if you simply replaced bolts before lowering it (assuming the longer bolts won't bottom out before seating fully like the ones they replace). Then, lower the crossmember with the bolts. Nice and controlled, but probably slow.

So, would someone be able to modify the breather w/o dropping things? Assuming some dexterity with out of sight fumbling? What size hose/vacuum plug?

Very nice writeup, BTW. Needs to be in the FAQ.

DougM

 

[Tools R Us]

But you wouldn't have to use a jack if you simply replaced bolts before lowering it (assuming the longer bolts won't bottom out before seating fully like the ones they replace). Then, lower the crossmember with the bolts. Nice and controlled, but probably slow.

The long bolts I had weren't threaded all the way, the jack worked well.

So, would someone be able to modify the breather w/o dropping things? Assuming some dexterity with out of sight fumbling? What size hose/vacuum plug?

Yes, it's on top of the transfer, but reachable without lowering everything. The nipple on the actuator is 4.5mm, .177".

Very nice writeup, BTW. Needs to be in the FAQ.

DougM

Thank you.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Sweet, thanks for the quick response. After so much wrenching on the 80s (HG times 3) in the last 60 days, I'm having withdrawals and today I got the last of the grundge in the garage cleaned/put away. Plus my shop overalls incredibly came clean in the wash YET AGAIN so they're usable now. They've been through 3 axle repacks, 3 head gaskets and myriad other messy truck stuff. By the end of each project, they're so grundgy I have to take them off before entering the house and lay them across the trash can. Then I wash them again with my fingers crossed. I just can't bear to replace them so I'm relieved they're clean again, but clean means time for something else.

So, I'll be doing this mod and the F/R lock actuator breathers all at the same time. Times 2, of course..

DougM

 

[Riad]

Thanks a lot for the great write up and info, yes, it should be in the FAQ. I have been meaning to ask one (more) question but holding myself back for quiet some time now . The question is how do I know my actuator motor works? After I press the CDL switch the ABS and the CDL lights comes on. When I press the switch off, the lights goes away, seems pretty functional to me. I have been to many wheeling trips so far, I couldn't tell you the difference between having the CDL lights on/off in the low range, other than the fact that it looks good in the dash and Psychologically I feel invincible . Ofcourse, the truck goes over any obstacle that those heeps and rovers with lockers can go through. Also my diffs are open.

Thanks!

 

[IXXI]

I believe until you do the Pin-7 mod, your CDL switch is useable/actionable only in 4Hi... in 4Lo, the default is center dif locked (whether CDL switch is on or off, makes no difference). The Pin-7 mod gives you control to lock/unlock center dif even in 4Lo.

 

[Riad]

Sorry, forgot to mention, I do have pin 7 mod. For some reason I thought, people install the CDL switch and do the PIN 7 mod at the same time by default.

 

[Tools R Us]

....So, I'll be doing this mod and the F/R lock actuator breathers all at the same time. Times 2, of course..

DougM

I agree on doing all of them, the rear terminates between the frame and body in the left rear wheelwell, not a good spot IMHO. For the rear I am going to remove the cap, attach a line and run it into the jack compartment. I haven't found where the front one terminates, but it will be extended to under the dash with the CDL one. The front and rears lines are in the wiring harness.

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks a lot for the great write up and info, yes, it should be in the FAQ. I have been meaning to ask one (more) question but holding myself back for quiet some time now . The question is how do I know my actuator motor works? After I press the CDL switch the ABS and the CDL lights comes on. When I press the switch off, the lights goes away, seems pretty functional to me. I have been to many wheeling trips so far, I couldn't tell you the difference between having the CDL lights on/off in the low range, other than the fact that it looks good in the dash and Psychologically I feel invincible . Ofcourse, the truck goes over any obstacle that those heeps and rovers with lockers can go through. Also my diffs are open.

Thanks!

If the lights are coming on, it's probably working. The fun way to test it is wheel with it off, the viscous coupler is a cool design, wheel with the CDL off and you will get a good feel for how it works. When you lock the difference will be obvious. The other way is to have a helper sit in the truck with engine off and the key turned to run, get under near the transfer, and have your helper cycle the CDL switch, you will hear motor run to lock and unlock, if you have a driveshaft out turn the flange and you can feel it locking.

 

[Beowulf]

I haven't found where the front one terminates, but it will be extended to under the dash with the CDL one.

I believe the front terminates just to the rear of the air cleaner canister. That's where it is on my '97. George has pictures of the locations on his web site.

-B-

 

[e9999]

Sweet, thanks for the quick response. After so much wrenching on the 80s (HG times 3) in the last 60 days, I'm having withdrawals and today I got the last of the grundge in the garage cleaned/put away. Plus my shop overalls incredibly came clean in the wash YET AGAIN so they're usable now. They've been through 3 axle repacks, 3 head gaskets and myriad other messy truck stuff. By the end of each project, they're so grundgy I have to take them off before entering the house and lay them across the trash can. Then I wash them again with my fingers crossed. I just can't bear to replace them so I'm relieved they're clean again, but clean means time for something else.

So, I'll be doing this mod and the F/R lock actuator breathers all at the same time. Times 2, of course..

DougM

I take it these are not your lucky overalls, based on the HG situation...?

 

[e9999]

so where do these 2" of down play come from? is that all from the rubber motor mounts then? can we get away with that without busting anything?


did I understand correctly that the CDL breather is teed into the TC and Trans ones. So it effectively ends up at the top of the dipstick, right? that's not so bad. have to look for both ends DL breathers, though.

 

[Gumby]

A bump for a good thread.

Is the big gear in the default position on the new actuator?

Is the default position on a new one locked or unlocked? My book says to install in the locked position.

Any good source for these? mine is also toast on the center and rear. I've thought about going cable in the rear, but now I have an issue with the center motor as well. I've thought about taking the motor in to a good electric motor shop and seeing if they can be repaired.


I usually remove the entire actuator. Very easy after you do it once. no need to drop the transfer at all.

 

[MoGas]

Move this to FAQ PLEEEEAAAAASSSSSSEEEEEE

 

[rjjff]

CDL

Rather than starting another CDL tread I thought I would just barrow this one since it seems to relate somewhat to my CDL problem.
I intalled the CDL switch a couple weeks ago and it worked fine. Then I went out today to exercise them and now they don't seem to work at all.
I came back to home and jumped the 2-3 indicator switch plugs with the engine off, locked it up, and I could here all three locker motors actuated and all three locker lights came on. But once I took the jump out and plugged it back into the tranfer case I could only hear the center motor actuate and no lights came on for the center locker. Nothing happened with the F/R locker or lights.
I pulled the CDL control relay out to see if it was bad, took it apart and everythinng seemed to look OK. Any suggestions, Thanks

 

[Tools R Us]

Rather than starting another CDL tread I thought I would just barrow this one since it seems to relate somewhat to my CDL problem.
I intalled the CDL switch a couple weeks ago and it worked fine. Then I went out today to exercise them and now they don't seem to work at all.
I came back to home and jumped the 2-3 indicator switch plugs with the engine off, locked it up, and I could here all three locker motors actuated and all three locker lights came on. But once I took the jump out and plugged it back into the tranfer case I could only hear the center motor actuate and no lights came on for the center locker. Nothing happened with the F/R locker or lights.
I pulled the CDL control relay out to see if it was bad, took it apart and everythinng seemed to look OK. Any suggestions, Thanks

It sounds like your CDL indicator switch on the transfer died, is that the one that you unplugged and jumpered?

 

[rjjff]

Yes, it's grey and has two plugs. I believe it is C 2 on the electical diagram, when I jump it the CDL lights and ABS lights stay on.

 

[TORTUS]

I just ran into this on my truck tonight, came to the forum and there was the post! Saved me some search time!

I just installed my CDL switch, tried it and no dash lights came on, put it in 4 low, still no dash lights, didn't matter what I did with the CDL switch either. I can hear what sounds like a motor cycling so something is trying to move down there. Do you think it's the same problem? (sounds like it)

On top of that, I have been trying to figure out what feels like a binding in the drive train when turning. Per Slee's suggestion I jacked up one tire and tried to turn it, even with the trans and Tcase in neutral I still couldn't turn the tire. I thought maybe my front locker (ARB) was staying engaged, but after reading this it seems like it might be the CDL. I can see the front DS try to turn a little when I spin the tire but then it stops. Is it possible that the CDL stayed looked somehow and is causing this? Seems like the dash lights would be on if it were stuck though?

Help!!