Izzy's amateur hour (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

what??? you have a pool and didn't invite us...?
 
CDL replacement, I am a pro now since I'd did it twice today. I followed these;
CDL relay chatter
CDL Actuator Fun

I got this on eBay for $113. First thing was to test it by unplugging the old one plunging in the "new" one. It whirrrrsss like it's supposed to.

image.jpeg


Chock the front tires, set the center differential into neutral. Lift the rear driver wheel by the axle. This wheel you will rotate later.

image.jpeg


Now place jack under differential support member to support it. Remove the bolts with 14mm socket.
image.jpeg

Lower jack about 2 inches and lock in place, about distance shown below. This will give you the clearance needed to acces the actuator

image.jpeg


Remove this thing, two 14 mm bolts.

image.jpeg


Now you can easily get to the 4 bolts holding the actuator. One bolt by the motor housing is very long, other 3 are the same. I used the new actuator as a guide for where the bolts would be.
 
Last edited:
Now with a rubber mallet tap, tap, whack whack the old actuator. There is a spot on the driver side where a flat screwdriver will fit and pry the unit up.

image.jpeg


Then remove the actuator and cable, breather hose. That's when I saw it has this extra gear. Woooot? Old one on the right. This gear should be inside, wtf? Reach for paper bag and control breathing, then re engage. That gear should be in transfer case, put it back in to engage the fork, all by feel since you can't see.

image.jpeg


Now I was able to sit on ground, one hand touching the gear, one hand on the rear tire. Rotate gear backwards (counterclockwise from your position) while slowly spinning tire. You will feel the gear rotating and the tire locking. That was it, now turn ignition in cabin and you should see the dif lock light on.
I had to do this twice, first time I did it wrong and didn't check the dash light. Second time took me 20 mins, first time 2 hours.

Use the FIPG to make a bead on the actuator mating part, plug it in to the harness and press CDL button to set it to lock. Insert it back in, and go back up to cabin to press button on and off a few times to double check.

Bolt everything back up and done

Going. To take apart the old one when I can, maybe Father's Day project. So far so good, everything works, cruiser back to crusing.
 
Last edited:
Time for weekend project, got these earlier this week,super fast ship from Cruiser Outfitters. Will roll out the carpet this time

image.jpeg
 
Time for weekend project, got these earlier this week,super fast ship from Cruiser Outfitters. Will roll out the carpet this time

Time to get dirty :D
 
Done and done! John Vee came by and help with a couple of critical parts! Removing it all was very easy this time, separating the birf easy as well.

The new ones are shiny, and the cage is very stiff compared to the old birfs that where very loose and sloppy. I guess I learned that's the difference between worn and old.

Also learned that the Nitros are a little different than the toyotas. The cage on the Yotas is solid, reinserting the shafts with the hose clamp trick is easy, the Nitros have a slant towards the center that makes that impossible. We tried the zip tie method, John finally got it to work on the driver side. On the passenger side, it didn't work. Then we had an idea, maybe the slant is there to help squeeze the locking ring in, we tried that and after some persuasion, it worked!

The it rained, a lot. Anyways, I did the grunt thing and finshed it up in the soak. A quick drive on grassy area, 4L and turning, works as it should!
image.jpeg


When refilling, why do we use the little hole with the square head bolt and not the bigass hole for the sensor?
image.jpeg
image.jpeg

New birfs come with grease and new clip

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
That's 4 consecutive weeks of weekend wrenching for me. Someone please take note.

EDIT: And I stopped for self service gas on the way home. Damn, I'm beat!
 
Last edited:
Noted
 
right there with you.... Although I think id prefer a cruiser over the jetta
 
Your gold star will be issued Monday
 
Drained this morning and refiilled, repeat process a third time more gunk out but clearer.
After doing it 4 times, I came up with an idea combining the heater flush and radiator flush. Disconnected the heater return, but a hose on it going to a bucket. The connected the pump intake to a full bucket, kept the funnel on radiator and started engine. Then kept adding water from hose to funnel so it wouldn't go dry. The idea was to run water through system, flush out after heater. Seemed that it worked, 5 mins of running and rusty water became all clear.

Next was radiator drain and adding the Gunk super flush content. Then add water to fill it up, ran engine for 30 mins. The Gunk is soapy, must be the surfactants in the mix.
Let the engine cool for 20 mins, drain again. More dirt came out, which was good.

Afterwards, I reattached the short circuit on the heater and repeated that flush process again, until all was cl at water. Next, drain the radiator, close it up, and fill it up with Distilled water. I used 4 gallons of distilled to flush out tap water, same heater short circuit process., then drain radiator again.

Coolant adding. I added 1/2 gallon of direct coolant into heater hose, to make sure there are no air gaps there. There is at least 1 gallon of distilled water in system. Then I refilled radiator with another 1/2 gal of coolant, and 2 gallons of 50/50 mix. Using the heater cheat process, I was ale to ensure the water was expunged, pushed out by coolant. Then reconnected the heater return hose. Burp the system normally, and had 140F temp on the vents while running engine during burp process. All done, all mud and dirt out.

UPDATE: I checked the coolant today on 12/25 (dont have little kids, so time to tinker). Coolant looks perfect, like pinkish Koolaid, clean. Happy time.


Izzy,
I got a whole lot of projects planned for October 1st and 2nd. One of them is changing all hose including the PHH, Inlet,outlet, etc. I was wondering if you mind if I borrowed your burping funnel, and the contraption you fab together for the heater flush? I figure since all the fluid is going to be out, it will be a good time to flush the whole system
 
Last edited:
Got oil leaks, 2 of them I think. I see motor oil on the transmission bell housing, suspect the pan arch seal to be the culprit. The other is up front, can't see anything but I see oil drops from bolt on pic below.

So today I cleaned the engine bay, and the areas where the oil was accumulating so I can hopefully isolate them. Left engine running for 20 mins or so to evaporate water. Oil is back driving from front but nothing out back, dry.

This is the area I cleaned well to see if the leak is from the lower pan or upper, or RMS.

IMG_6665.JPG


This sensor is on driver side, on the oil pan. Cleaned too to see if maybe oil leaks from it
IMG_6667.JPG


This is the bolt where I always see oil drops. Cleaned well, but after idling 20 mins came back. Pic is taken from behind, he large bolt you see is the AC belt tension adjusting bolt. So the leak should be from something above, no idea what is is, can't see it from the top.
Any clues appreciated!
IMG_1993.PNG
 
I had oil in all those places and it ended up being the oil pump seal.
 
Hmmm, yes, been reading more, could be that or main front seal. Took another look, oil pump seal was replaced when I bought the truck by a master Toyota mechanic, hope that's not it. The oil pump is on the driver side, that looked dry. The main seal is more center, I see oil here. Either way, blew a can of brake cleaner on both so it's nice, clean, and dry and better to diagnose.
This job may be too much for me from what I read, may need to go to another yota specialist....
 
Well, crap, its the main seal on the front. Drove today and the oil pump is still dry outside, but I can see the leak behind the balancer pulley. I drove to Toyota Specialty in Indian Trail (recommended by another 80 owner), and the place is closed! Owner retired. So only options are dealer or the guys Toyota Tech in SC. I dont think I have the tools or patience to do this job.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom