CDL Actuator Fun (2 Viewers)

[Tools R Us]

Yes, it's grey and has two plugs. I believe it is C 2 on the electical diagram, when I jump it the CDL lights and ABS lights stay on.

Some have had luck with pulling that switch and exercising it, pushing the ball on the end in multiple times. It's easy to test it when it's out, the contacts should be normally open, when the ball is pushed closed.

 

[Tools R Us]

I just ran into this on my truck tonight, came to the forum and there was the post! Saved me some search time!

I just installed my CDL switch, tried it and no dash lights came on, put it in 4 low, still no dash lights, didn't matter what I did with the CDL switch either. I can hear what sounds like a motor cycling so something is trying to move down there. Do you think it's the same problem? (sounds like it)

On top of that, I have been trying to figure out what feels like a binding in the drive train when turning. Per Slee's suggestion I jacked up one tire and tried to turn it, even with the trans and Tcase in neutral I still couldn't turn the tire. I thought maybe my front locker (ARB) was staying engaged, but after reading this it seems like it might be the CDL. I can see the front DS try to turn a little when I spin the tire but then it stops. Is it possible that the CDL stayed looked somehow and is causing this? Seems like the dash lights would be on if it were stuck though?

Help!!

If the motor is running and not shifting the locker it could be the actuator output bushing is bound up. The motor runs tensioning the wait spring, but the output isn't turning to shift the locker. I would say this would be a rare failure, the lower bushing is exposed to gear oil and should be well lubed?

If it's staying locked all of the time, it could be your viscous coupling is bad. The actuator is stuck at the right spot and the locker gear is partly engaged, but not enough turn on the light, or the switch is bad?

The first thing to do is jack the truck up, get under, have a helper run the CDL switch and see what is working. When it's unlocked you should be able to turn one driveshaft and hold the other, when locked they should be locked together, it's pretty easy to feel/hear the shifting action from under the truck.

 

[rjjff]

Thanks for the help, all that I had to do was play with the little ball on the switch.
Thanks again, Rich

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks for the help, all that I had to do was play with the little ball on the switch.
Thanks again, Rich

It's good to get joy from playing with the little ball!

 

[Tools R Us]

Sorry for dredging up this old thread, but this info probably belongs with the pictures/info earlier in the thread to aid future searches.

These pages are from the ‘96 LX New Car Features Document. It applies to all of the FZJ80 and is the best explanation that I have seen on how the system works.

 

[Tools R Us]

More;

 

[Tools R Us]

IMHO when diagnosing a sticking actuator, the first thing to determine is; DOES THE ACTUATOR MOTOR RUN? Yes I’m yelling, because it’s important! This applies to all of the actuators CDL and axle.

To test, turn the key to run, engine off, get under the rig near the actuator, have a helper run the switch or shifter, each time the switch position is changed you should hear the actuator motor run for a second or so and stop.

If the motor runs correctly, the chances of ruining it are slim. Feel free to try all of the tricks to break it loose, tap on it, drive in circles, on dirt, on pavement, jack it up and turn the shafts or any other “Mud voodoo”. But even if it does break free, chances are good that it still has at minimum dry hardened grease and most likely rust in it, will operate more slowly and be prone to sticking again.

If the motor doesn’t run, you have one of two problems, continuing to “exercise” it can ruin the windings in the motor. It’s ether a bound motor or an electrical problem. If you need to drive it before finding the problem I would ether pull the fuse or unplug the actuator. If it’s stuck open and your in low, stuck locked and your in high or stuck somewhere in between, the system will apply power to the motor, for as long as the key is on, trying to move it and can burn up the windings without even blowing the fuse.

I look at the actuator as two halves, the motor section (in red) and the shift section (green in the pic). When actuated the motor runs and winds up the center spiral spring, then when the gear teeth are aligned the spring shifts the fork. If it’s stuck in the motor section you risk damage, If it’s stuck in the shift part you don’t.

 

[Tools R Us]

I have only seen one system that had a bad L4 position switch, on all of the rest the problem was in the actuator. I’m not saying that it’s not possible for there to be other problems and they maybe common, but the ones that I have worked on mostly were actuator problems and involved moisture gumming up the grease and rust/corrosion in the actuator.

From the wiring diagram above the power comes from the fuse/switch. The ground side that determines how long the motor runs, which direction and where it stops, comes from the limit switches in the actuator. I have seen these switches corroded, not making contact and that will cause the system to fail.

The bottom line is that if you have a locking problem, chances are good that the actuator needs to come apart to be cleaned, greased and sealed up with good form in place sealer. If you have slow actuators cleaning and greasing will most likely make a big difference, when newly done they are nice, zing locked, zing unlock!

The moisture issue is why I don’t agree with the stock method of hooking the breather in with the trans and transfer. It may not be an epidemic problem, but a few feet of vacuum line to plumb it to under the dash seams like cheap insurance to me.

 

[landtank]

I'll add my .02 from only repairing one actuator which was the front one.

As Kevin stated I could hear the motor run when I turned the switch to engage the front locker and the locker wasn't engaging.

The thing that was confusing was that the actuator worked flawlessly in my hand and only failed when installed in the diff.

It turned out to be a bushing that was binding up the actuator spring assembly when it was bolted in place.

The spring assembly has the large gear that is driven by the motor on one end and the other end is the gear that drives the fork assembly. The bushing is located on the large gear end. When the actuator was installed there was some extra clamping force being applied to the housing causing the shaft to seize in that bushing. Once the bushing was removed, cleaned and lubed it worked flawless.

From the diagram above the CDL actuator looks to be the same in that area as the front one I had apart. I'm not sure about the rear but look for that bushing when you have it dis-assembled.

 

[80t0ylc]

Tools - I'm reviving this thread since, while searching, it looks pertinent and I'm having CDL problems.

Returned from an approx 400 mile round pavement trip and thought a mile or so from my house I'd exercise the CDL. Pulled over on shoulder and hit CDL switch. It works fine CDL & ABS light come on, gave it about 15 seconds and hit CDL switch again to deactivate. Lights go out and I continue on my merry way home. Get home and park it and try CDL one more time and now it's not working. Hmm. A day or two goes by and in troubleshooting I discover that tapping on actuator housing on T/C while CDL switch engaged, frees the actuator up and now it's working fine, Sounds good and crisp, the lights on dash don't come on, but I know what that is. My CDL indicator switch has given me problems before and needs replacing - I just wince at $60 or so for the sumbich switch assy. It usually works when T/C is up to operating temp.

My question is - do I need to tear in to this actuator and PM it? In re-reading the thread I noticed that I should & will separate the actuator vent hose from the tranny & T/C lines. I was thinking that after a 400 mile road trip, maybe exercising the CDL wasn't the smartest thing to do since currently all vent hoses are tied together. I'm buying and installing one of CreeperSleeper's Crossmember skidplates in the next week or two. This would be the perfect time to pull CDL actuator, clean it up and re-grease it.

Kevin, what do you think? This is your thread and I value your opinion, from your contributions to this forum. Should I go through the trouble or do you think just separating vent hose would work? Any gaskets or other supplies to have on hand if pulling actuator?

 

[80t0ylc]

Bump.

 

[Tools R Us]

Most any “over the Internet diagnosis” is a guess, but it sounds like the motor and locking parts of the actuator run smooth, quickly when they work. Nothing works when it doesn’t work. Most times when things start working with a tap, it’s an electrical connection, in this case probably the brushes or wiper switch? If this is true it should be safe to exercise it, if run enough the contact maybe cleaned and start performing reliably?

Have you confirmed that it’s locking or assuming that the switch is the problem with the lights? Have you removed the switch, exercised and tested it?

I’m not a fan of the breather design and believe that giving the actuator it’s own line has no downside and could protect an expensive part. Other than being slightly hard to access, it’s a simple mod, just a vac cap to close the fitting on the main breather line and enough vac line to route it inside the rig. But most haven’t had a problem with it; so don’t know how important it is?

For most trails that I run, lockers are needed, so for me it’s a critical system and I do what’s needed to keep it in reliably working condition. That said, there is risk involved, there are no replacement parts and it’s a big $$$ assembly to replace, so if you decide to tackle it, work carefully. When working on them the consumables that are needed are grease and silicone sealer.

 

[80t0ylc]

Most any “over the Internet diagnosis” is a guess, but it sounds like the motor and locking parts of the actuator run smooth, quickly when they work. Nothing works when it doesn’t work. Most times when things start working with a tap, it’s an electrical connection, in this case probably the brushes or wiper switch? If this is true it should be safe to exercise it, if run enough the contact maybe cleaned and start performing reliably?......

Thanks, Kevin. That was kinda my feelings, too. I plan on giving the actuator some more exercise before trusting it.

....Have you confirmed that it’s locking or assuming that the switch is the problem with the lights? Have you removed the switch, exercised and tested it?......

When I installed my CDL switch and pin 7 mod, I noticed it acting up. I removed the switch and sprayed some cleaner and then lube in the "ball" and it seemed to improve the performance for a while. Now, it seems like it needs to be at operating temp to work. I haven't taken it out for a test since I got the actuator working. Plan on doing that this week.

.....I’m not a fan of the breather design and believe that giving the actuator it’s own line has no downside and could protect an expensive part. Other than being slightly hard to access, it’s a simple mod, just a vac cap to close the fitting on the main breather line and enough vac line to route it inside the rig. But most haven’t had a problem with it; so don’t know how important it is?.....

I plan on modifying the breather this week also. The tranny dipstick has 2 vent lines that attach to the top of it. Are they one from T/C-actuator breathers and one from tranny breather? Just curious cause I cant see the hoses since their above the tranny.

......For most trails that I run, lockers are needed, so for me it’s a critical system and I do what’s needed to keep it in reliably working condition.....

I'm with you there. With out the actuator working, you can't lock T/C, which seriously hampers most trail ability or even needed traction in snow conditions, especially for those with out locking axles. And for those with factory axle e-lockers - their tough to use with out the CDL working.

.....That said, there is risk involved, there are no replacement parts and it’s a big $$$ assembly to replace, so if you decide to tackle it, work carefully. When working on them the consumables that are needed are grease and silicone sealer.

Thanks, again for guidance here!

 

[80t0ylc]

Update:
I separated the CDL actuator breather from the transfer case breather line and extended it. Put a breather cap on the end of hose and tie wrapped it just under hood level in engine compartment. I also took the time to extend the axle breathers. Front cap is tie wrapped to ABS valve assy just under hood level. I tied the rear cap to the top of the fuel vent line behind fuel cap door. If you remove a plastic cover in the rear of the USDS rear wheel well, it's very accessible. I measured and it turns out to be same height as front breather cap. I didn't want it in jack compartment because I hate the smell of gear oil. I took the 80 on some errands today and just as I thought, when the transfer case is up to operating temp, the CDL indicator switch works like a charm. Maybe it's my imagination but the CDL action seems crisper and quicker than ever before. If that's due to seperate breathers - I'm jazzed!

 

[Tools R Us]

Good to hear that it's working, but doubt it has anything to do with the breathers. Maybe it just wanted some attention?

 

[JohnnyBee]

Im having similar problems and found that my motor is good but the gear and spring assembly was unable to turn because of corrosion. Im in the process of putting it all back together now.

In the picture above is that the proper alignment for the gear and springs? Do you have any tips for putting it back together?
Thanks!

 

[MYSHERPA]

So, i'm having an issue with my CDL actuator as well. I have already pulled the CDL indicator ball switch thingy on the transfer case an confirmed that it works. When I drop into 4lo, nothing happens I get no light on the dash and I hear no motor trying to run. So what i want to do is use a multimeter to check that the motor is getting a signal before I go tearing into actuator replacement. So is there somewhere that I can pull a plug and make a couple of contacts with a multimeter to check that a signal is getting to the motor? If so where is/are the plugs located and what contacts should I be touching my multimeter probes to?

Thanks a ton for any help you can provide!

 

[80t0ylc]

What worked for me was (if you don't have the CDL switch) drop the T/C into lo with the ignition switch to the on position (motor not running so you can hear stuff). Get under the rig and tap on the CDL actuator housing with a rubber or nylon headed hammer. You should hear a short whirring noise which is the CDL actuating. From the driver's seat with the door open and in a very quiet location, such as a closed garage, you can hear both the clicks from under the dash and also the whirring from under the rig. IMHO, it's the sitting and non-use of the CDL that causes it to bind up when you haven't used in a long time (sometimes months). I only drive my 80 maybe once a month so before I start it up, I hit my CDL switch, and listen for the clicks and whirring. Then I'll disengage it and start the engine. Since I've been doing this routine, I've not had any problems, even with the usage it gets. The dash lights don't always come on, but that's not a problem sitting in the garage. In off-road use, driving a couple of feet and the lights will come on. It's the clicks and whirring that's important. If the tapping doesn't work you'll probably need to dig out or get a FSM for your rig.

 

[asutherland]

To vent it only requires about 6 feet of vacuum hose and a vacuum plug to cap the tee. Zip-tie the hose along the trany dipstick tube into the engine compartment, then through the wiring grommet to inside under the dash, where it's vented in relatively dry air. Probably not necessary, but a cheep, easy fix that may save an expensive, hard to change part!

I second that thought. After rebuilding my rear locker 3 times (due to water leaking in from the locker motor breather) I finally ran a vacuum hose from the motor up into the rear quarter panel through a hole I drilled and a grommet.

 

[asutherland]

So, i'm having an issue with my CDL actuator as well. I have already pulled the CDL indicator ball switch thingy on the transfer case an confirmed that it works. When I drop into 4lo, nothing happens I get no light on the dash and I hear no motor trying to run. So what i want to do is use a multimeter to check that the motor is getting a signal before I go tearing into actuator replacement. So is there somewhere that I can pull a plug and make a couple of contacts with a multimeter to check that a signal is getting to the motor? If so where is/are the plugs located and what contacts should I be touching my multimeter probes to?

Thanks a ton for any help you can provide!

I don't recall which wires have the power on them, but something to good to know... when my rear locker was having issues engaging, we put a multimeter on it and noticed the same voltage as the front locker wiring (meaning it SHOULD be actuating) but it wouldn't. The problem ended up being damaged wiring connector along the rear of the vehicle up behind the rear cross member. There was indeed the necessary voltage on the leads, but the required current to actually make the motor spin wasn't there...

The connector you're looking for will run from the wiring harness under the vehicle INTO the electric locker on the axle.

Another thing to be aware of is the voltage on the wires doesn't STAY on. It comes on briefly, to attempt to turn the motor, and will shut off again within a few seconds. So make sure you and a buddy check it out. One to sit in the car and flick the switch and one to lay underneath with the DMM. You only need to have the ACC on (vehicle doesn't need to be running). 12V should appear on one of the leads. Then when the switch does the opposite, it puts -12V on that same lead to reverse the motor.